Abelia

( a - BEE - lee- a )

At-A-Glance Information

The genus Abelia includes species of evergreen, semi-evergreen, and deciduous shrubs and subshrubs. These plants thrive in sunshine, but can tolerate some shade. They need regular water, and their flowers will attract pollinators like birds and butterflies to your garden. These shrubs have graceful, arching branches and flowers appear in summer and early fall. Blossoms have a fragrance similar to Jasmine, Honeysuckle, or Citrus. When blooms drop, purple or copper-colored sepals remain and last throughout the fall season. Many species have beautiful fall foliage color. Abelias are classic shrubs for Butterfly, Cottage, or Pollinator gardens. Use Abelia shrubs in foundation plantings, mixed beds and borders, and as hedge plants. They do well in containers, as erosion control or groundcover, and are drought and disease resistant.

Abelia Species and Varietals

Named for Clarke Abel, Abelia is included the Honeysuckle family (Caprifoliaceae), and there are six species. Species previously included in the genus Abelia have been transferred to genera Zabelia, Diabelia, Lonicera, and Vesalea. The best growing zones for Abelia depend on the species; see the descriptions below for more information. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Abelia chinensis (Chinese Abelia)
This compact species is deciduous to semi-evergreen depending on where it is grown, and grows well in Sunset zones 4-24 or USDA growing zones 7-9. It is native to China, Japan, Taiwan, Vietnam, and the Ryukyu Islands and can grow to reach between 4-5 feet tall and wide when mature. Flowers are white with a pink tint and fragrant. Foliage is green. This is one of the most cold-resistant species in the genus.

Abelia x grandiflora (Glossy Abelia)
These evergreen to semi-evergreen hybrids are the most popularly cultivated of all shrubs in the genus, and can vary in width and height depending on the varietal, averaging 8 feet tall and 5 feet wide. The hybrids were created by crossing Abelia chinensis and Abelia uniflora. In cold weather (15 degrees Fahrenheit or lower) they will lose their leaves and they will die back to the ground at 0 degrees Fahrenheit. They recover well, however, and can rebound and bloom the following spring. These hybrids are best in USDA hardiness zones 5-9. Flowers are typically white to light lavender-pink.

'Bronze Anniversary'
This variety grows to be 3-4 feet tall and wide. New growth is a bronzy/orange color, but the leaves mature to be a bright, lime green. The flowers are white.

'Confetti'
Dense variety, to 2-3 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide. This shrub has variegated leaves which turn a maroon color in cold weather. White flowers.

'Francis Mason'
This is a compact shrub that gets to about 3-4 feet tall and wide. It is densely branched. Variegated leaves. Flowers are pink.

'Golden Anniversary'
This is a low-growing shrub which gets to about 2 feet tall and 4 feet wide. The leaves are splashed with a creamy yellow color, which contrast nicely with its red stems. Flowers are white.

'Kaleidoscope'
This varietal is compact, to 2-3 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide. Stems are bright red, and leaves are variegated yellow but turn orange and red in the fall. Flowers are white.

'Little Richard'
This shrub is dense and compact, getting to about 2-3 feet tall and wide. Leaves are dark green and shiny, and hold on for a long time in winter, even in colder climates. Flowers are white.

'Mardi Gras'
This varietal grows to 2-3 feet high and 4-5 feet wide. Leaves are splashed with pink and cream and flowers are white.

'Prostrate White' ('Prostrata')
This shrub is much lower than other varietals, growing to only 1.5-2 feet tall. It can spread to be 4-5 feet wide. Useful as a groundcover. White blooms.

'Sherwoodii'
This varietal is dense and compact, growing to about 3-4 feet tall and 5 feet wide. Flowers are pale lavender/pink.

'Silver Anniversary'
This shrub is shorter than other varietals, growing to about 2-2.5 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide. Leaves have a silvery tinge with cream edges. Flowers are white.

'Sunrise'
This variety can grow to 3-5 feet tall, and a bit wider. It is densely branched and has glossy green leaves that are edged with yellow. In the fall, foliage will turn orange and red. Flowers are white.

'White Marvel'
This varietal grows to be 5 feet tall and wide, and has white to yellow-colored new growth. Mature leaves are green with creamy to golden-yellow edges. Flowers are white.

caring for abelia

The first step in caring for Abelia, as with any plant, is choosing the correct placement in your yard. Abelias can be used as a hedge, groundcover, or a centerpiece shrub. The spot you choose to plant your Abelia should get full to partial sun; ideally, they appreciate around 6 hours of sun each day, with some afternoon shade in the warmest climates. These shrubs can grow in a variety of soil types, but respond best to soil amended with organic material that drains well, and that is slightly acidic to neutral (between 6.0 and 7.0). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these shrubs are considered to be drought-tolerant, able to get by for much of the year on rainwater alone, with supplemental irrigations during extended periods of drought. As a general rule of thumb, water deeply when the top 2-3 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot issues.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. These plants are not heavy feeders, and this should be sufficient to provide the necessary nutrients for the active growing and flowering seasons. Prune in late winter or early springtime before new growth pushes out for the year, removing any dead, damaged, or diseased foliage. Avoid pruning after new growth and blooms have begun to push out, as this shrub flowers on the previous years' wood. Abelia shrubs should be left alone for the first two years after planting so they can come in to their own shape and size. In the third year, choose the three largest interior stems of the shrub and make a cut just above the ground level. Continue pruning stems in a natural-looking pattern until about a third of the plant has been removed. If possible, make these cuts on the interior of the plant so that they are less visible. If you have an Abelia shrub in your yard that you are considering removing due to its shape or poor health, consider a major renovation of the shrub. To do this, cut all stems down to ground level in late winter before new growth has sprouted. The shrub will regain its normal height within a couple of years, and then general maintenance pruning can commence.

Growing Abelia in Containers
Abelia shrubs, especially dwarf or compact varieties, can do very well in containers. If you live in an area that gets cooler winters than most Abelia can handle, growing in containers can allow for moving the plant into a more sheltered location during cool weather. Choose a pot with good drainage holes that is about two inches larger in diameter than the root ball or nursery pot. Fill it with a potting mix amended with perlite or organic matter to improve drainage and nutrient load and plant the Abelia so that it sits about an inch or two below the rim of the container. Fill in around the outside of the root ball, allowing soil to settle but not packing it down. Apply a layer of mulch on top to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly; Abelia shrubs planted in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those in the ground.

Harvesting Abelia
Abelia flowering stems can be used in cut arrangements, and flowers are edible, used mostly for garnishing salads or beverages. As cut flowers, Abelia adds foliage color, flowers, and fragrance to fresh arrangements. Harvest stems in the early morning, after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Cut stems just above a node at an angle using clean, sharp shears or snips. Drop stems into a bucket of cool water after harvesting. When arranging, remove leaves below the water line. Flowers may drop from stems within a few days, but the colorful calyces will remain on stems for as long as they last. The vase life of Abelia stems is around 5-7 days. To harvest individual flowers for culinary applications, pick them individually from plants just before use. The most flavorful and fragrant flowers are those that have just opened. The only species of Abelia that is cultivated for its edible flowers is Abelia chinensis.

Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.

Propagation

Abelia shrubs can be propagated by cutting or seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant, especially if you are propagating a hybrid cultivar. Also note that some Abelia cultivars are sterile, and will not produce seeds. To propagate your Abelia shrub, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Abelia by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant, and that not all Abelia cultivars will even produce seeds. To propagate by seed, you will need a container, a pot or tray, potting medium, and a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. Abelia seeds are located inside fruiting bodies called achenes, which are brown to copper in color and leathery, present on stems after flowers have faded. Each achene contains one light brown to reddish-brown seed. Collect seeds and place them in a container during harvesting to avoid losing them.
Get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them lightly with soil and water with a spray bottle. Place the sown seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-4 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of a fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet. Keep your seedling in an area with bright light and temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when the seedling can be hardened off and then planted outdoors.

Propagating Abelia by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In late summer or early fall, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that the plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances the cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6-8 inch softwood or semi-hardwood portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. It should be kept in warm, sunny conditions in a protected area. Water whenever the soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, the cutting should be rooted. New growth indicates the formation of roots.
Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when the seedling can be hardened off and then planted outdoors.

Problems and pests

Abelias are considered easy to grow and care for, and therefore have very few problems. From time to time, however, they can be susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases: