Aeonium
( ay - OWN - ee - um )
At-A-Glance Information
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Aeonium is a genus of perennial succulents that needs full sun in cooler climates and moderate water. They are commonly called Tree Houseleeks, and most are native Africa and the Mediterranean. Rosettes of fleshy leaves are held at the end of branches. These go dormant in summertime to conserve water, but with the right conditions will grow again in cooler temperatures. They prefer climates that are dry and mild. Many species of Aeonium are monocarpic, meaning they will die after producing their flower stalk (though most usually will branch or offset prior to death). Take care when cultivating certain species or cultivars (such as 'Mardi Gras'), as they are toxic to humans and pets if ingested.
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Aeonium Species and Varietals
The genus Aeonium includes 35 species of succulent plants and is a member of the family Crassulaceae. It gets its name from the Greek word for ageless, 'aionios'. Aeonium grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 and Sunset zones 15-17 and 20-24. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Aeonium arboreum (Tree Aeonium, Tree Houseleek, Irish Rose) Grows to 3 feet tall and wide, each branch tip producing a 6-8 inch wide bright green rosette. Yellow flowers bloom in long clusters. Varieties include 'Atropurpureum' (with magenta and green rosettes), 'Zwartkop' (sometimes called 'Black Rose Aeonium', with very dark purple rosettes up to 10 inches across), and 'Albovariegatum' (with white-edged foliage). |
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Aeonium aureum (Green Rose Buds, Green Mountain Rose, Succulent Rose) This species is native to the Canary Islands and has very short stems, usually with several leafy rosettes. Foliage is greyish-green and tightly packed. Individual leaves and stems are fleshy. Flowers are bright yellow and bloom atop stems above foliage. Individual plants can reach up to 4-15 inches tall at maturity. |
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Aeonium balsamiferum (Bejeque Farrobo, Balsam Houseleek) Native to the Canary Islands, these plants form shrubs with sticky foliage. Individual rosettes reach 8 inches in diameter, and have light green to greyish-green succulent leaves. Stems are fleshy and plants can reach between 3 and 4 feet tall at maturity. Flowers are light yellow and bloom at the end of stems that rise above foliage. |
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Aeonium canariense (Giant Velvet Rose, Canary Aeonium, Mint Saucer, Hen and Chicks Aeonium) These plants form a dense mounds of 18-inch wide rosettes that stay close to the ground on short stems. Flowering stems can reach up to 28 inches tall when plants are in bloom. Leaves are light green and can be either fuzzy or smooth. Tips of mature leaves are salmon-colored. Flowers are pale green to white. |
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Aeonium cuneatum (Tenerife Aeonium) This species of succulent forms a large leaf rosette with no stem. Leaves are smooth and green, upper surfaces with a grey shine to them. Plants form offshoots easily and they quickly form colonies across the ground. Flowers are yellow and have narrow rays. At maturity, this species reaches 3 feet tall and wide. |
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Aeonium decorum (Green Pinwheel) This compact species is busy and rounded, getting to 1 foot high and just as wide. Rosettes sprout at the end of branches and are about 2 inches in diameter. Leaves are pale green and tinted red, with red edges. Flowers are pink. Variety 'Kiwi' has tricolored leaves; they are light green with pale variegation and have bright red edges; flowers are pale yellow. |
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Aeonium glutinosum (Viscid Houseleek) This succulent sub-shrub can reach up to 24 inches tall when mature, and hold rosettes that are typically between 8 and 9 inches in diameter. Leaves are yellow-green and succulent. Flowering stems are very sticky, and hold yellow flowers for several months of the year. This species is endemic to the Madeira Archipelago. |
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Aeonium hawarothii (Haworth's Aeonium, Pinwheel, Irish Rose, Treehouseleek) This species has a free-branching habit and is a bit shrubby-looking. Reaches 2 feet tall and 4 feet wide, Leaves are bluish green with red edges. Rosettes are about 2-3 inches wide. Flowers are cream-colored. This plant is more cold-hardy than most species in the genus. 'Variegatum' and 'Kiwi' have leaves with white striping, and 'Bicolor' has leaves edged in carmine-red. |
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Aeonium hierrense (El Hierro Giant Houseleek, Hierro Houseleek) This species is endemic to the island of El Hierro in the Canary Islands. Foliage is hairy and takes on purplish hues in summertime. In winter, leaves are green. Flowers are whitish and bloom on flowering stalks that rise above the foliage for a few months out of the year. |
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Aeonium nobile (Noble Aeonium) Gets to 2 feet tall and wide. Stems are unbranched and hold green leaves that are tinted red when mature. Rosettes produce a large, flat-topped cluster of red flowers on a thick red stem. The plant will die after it blooms, but does produce many seeds. Flowers are bright red. This species is native to the island of La Palma in the Canary Islands. |
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Aeonium 'Sunburst' (Sunburst Aeonium) This is a showy plant boasting 12-inch rosettes with leaves that are green with light yellow or cream variegation. Leaves are edged with red. Gets to about 2 feet tall and 4 feet wide. Flowers are cream-colored. Does not do well with pruning. Variety 'Starbust' is similar, but with less yellow in the leaf variegation. |
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Aeonium tabuliforme (Flat-Topped Aeonium, Saucer Plant, Dinner Plate Plant, Table Aeonium) Stems are unbranched in this species, and hold flat rosettes up to 18 inches across. Leaves are light green and hairy and are perfectly symmetrical. After a few years, the plant will produce a single 1-2 foot stalk of yellow flowers, and then die. Cultivar 'Variegata' produces dark green leaves with white edges. |
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Aeonium undulatum (Saucer Plant, Stalked Aeonium, Stalk Plant) Apple-green leaves are wavy and form 10-15 inch wide rosette. 3-4 foot tall stems are thick and make offsets freely. These plants produce yellow flowers at the tops of flower stems that rise above the foliage when they reach about 5 years of age, and then die. |
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Aeonium urbicum (Saucer Plant, Salad Bowl) This species has 8-15 inch wide rosettes of long, narrow, grey-green leaves with reddish edges. This plant forms several stems and does not respond well to pruning. Has white or pink flowers. Individual plants can reach up to between 3 and 6 feet tall and wide. Flower stalks can add as much as 3 feet to height when plants are in bloom. |
Caring for Aeonium
Take care when cultivating certain species or cultivars (such as 'Mardi Gras'), as they are toxic to humans and pets if ingested. Aeonium, or Houseleek, plants are best in full sun; ideally, they should be getting between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day. Darker-foliaged Aeonium cultivars can take less sunlight than their green-leaved genus-mates. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5 (slightly acidic). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these succulents are drought-tolerant, able to get by on rainwater for much of the year with supplemental waterings during extended periods of drought. Do not allow soil to completely dry out, however, as these plants do not have extensive root systems. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top two inches of soil feels dry to the touch.
Aeoniums do not need to be fertilized every year; they typically grow in relatively lean soils. If growth becomes pale or slows considerably, lay down a one-inch layer of compost to the top of soil and work it in. Replace mulch after applying. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. After flowering, the rosette that produced the bloom will die, so it should be removed as well during cleanup. Prune back leggy stems (stems that have gotten bare and tall) to maintain a bushier shape. The rosettes that were removed can be replanted. Aeonium plants prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit; if weather is getting too cool, make sure to cover plants with frost cloth or consider growing them in containers that can be moved to a sheltered location in wintertime. Many species in this genus are monocarpic, meaning that the mother rosette dies after flowering, though unless they are in particularly stressful growing conditions, plants will send out 'pups' at the base of the mother plant that will grow into their own plants. In this way, Aeonium can persist indefinitely in the landscape.
Growing Aeonium in Containers
Aeonium plants can be grown in the ground or in containers. Choose a container that is about 2 inches larger than the root ball, and fill it with a well-draining potting mix. The ideal potting mix for Aeonium plants is 60% compost and 40% grit/sand or perlite. Ensure that the pot chosen has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to drain away. Place the container in a space that receives full sun; ideally, they should be getting between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day. Aeonium plants prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit; if weather is getting too cool, cover plants with a frost cloth or simply move them to an area that is more sheltered over the winter months. Water regularly; Aeoniums grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. Aeoniums grown in containers will need to be repotted every 2-3 years as their root ball outgrows its allotted space. Remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. After flowering, the rosette that produced the bloom will die, so it should be removed as well during cleanup. Prune back leggy stems (stems that have gotten bare and tall) to maintain a bushier shape. The rosettes that were removed can be replanted.
Growing Aeonium Indoors
Aeoniums can be grown indoors easily as a houseplant. Choose a container that is about 2 inches larger than the root ball, and fill it with a well-draining potting mix. The ideal potting mix for Aeonium plants is 60% compost and 40% grit/sand or perlite. Ensure that the pot chosen has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to drain away. Place the container in a space that receives direct sunlight; south-facing windows are typically best. If plants develop a light-colored or white crown, they are not getting sufficient light and may need the assistance of a growing light. Water regularly in spring and fall, and withhold waterings for the most part in winter and summer when plants are dormant (however, do not let soil dry out completely). Aeoniums grown in containers will need to be repotted every 2-3 years as their root ball outgrows its allotted space. Remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. After flowering, the rosette that produced the bloom will die, so it should be removed as well during cleanup. Prune back leggy stems (stems that have gotten bare and tall) to maintain a bushier shape. The rosettes that were removed can be replanted.
Aeoniums do not need to be fertilized every year; they typically grow in relatively lean soils. If growth becomes pale or slows considerably, lay down a one-inch layer of compost to the top of soil and work it in. Replace mulch after applying. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. After flowering, the rosette that produced the bloom will die, so it should be removed as well during cleanup. Prune back leggy stems (stems that have gotten bare and tall) to maintain a bushier shape. The rosettes that were removed can be replanted. Aeonium plants prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit; if weather is getting too cool, make sure to cover plants with frost cloth or consider growing them in containers that can be moved to a sheltered location in wintertime. Many species in this genus are monocarpic, meaning that the mother rosette dies after flowering, though unless they are in particularly stressful growing conditions, plants will send out 'pups' at the base of the mother plant that will grow into their own plants. In this way, Aeonium can persist indefinitely in the landscape.
Growing Aeonium in Containers
Aeonium plants can be grown in the ground or in containers. Choose a container that is about 2 inches larger than the root ball, and fill it with a well-draining potting mix. The ideal potting mix for Aeonium plants is 60% compost and 40% grit/sand or perlite. Ensure that the pot chosen has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to drain away. Place the container in a space that receives full sun; ideally, they should be getting between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day. Aeonium plants prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit; if weather is getting too cool, cover plants with a frost cloth or simply move them to an area that is more sheltered over the winter months. Water regularly; Aeoniums grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. Aeoniums grown in containers will need to be repotted every 2-3 years as their root ball outgrows its allotted space. Remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. After flowering, the rosette that produced the bloom will die, so it should be removed as well during cleanup. Prune back leggy stems (stems that have gotten bare and tall) to maintain a bushier shape. The rosettes that were removed can be replanted.
Growing Aeonium Indoors
Aeoniums can be grown indoors easily as a houseplant. Choose a container that is about 2 inches larger than the root ball, and fill it with a well-draining potting mix. The ideal potting mix for Aeonium plants is 60% compost and 40% grit/sand or perlite. Ensure that the pot chosen has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to drain away. Place the container in a space that receives direct sunlight; south-facing windows are typically best. If plants develop a light-colored or white crown, they are not getting sufficient light and may need the assistance of a growing light. Water regularly in spring and fall, and withhold waterings for the most part in winter and summer when plants are dormant (however, do not let soil dry out completely). Aeoniums grown in containers will need to be repotted every 2-3 years as their root ball outgrows its allotted space. Remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. After flowering, the rosette that produced the bloom will die, so it should be removed as well during cleanup. Prune back leggy stems (stems that have gotten bare and tall) to maintain a bushier shape. The rosettes that were removed can be replanted.
Propagation
The best way to propagate Aeonium is by cutting in springtime. To propagate your Aeonium, you will need a clean, sharp knife or garden shears and a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix (if you will not be replanting in the ground). When you have gathered your materials, follow the directions below to propagate your plant:
- Use your clean, sharp garden shears or knife to cut off a younger stem piece that has a rosette. Place this cutting on its side and leave it in a dry, warm, shaded spot for at least three days. This will cause the root end to heal and form a harder callous. Doing this helps the plant avoid root rot when it gets planted in potting mix.
- Fill your pot with the potting mix described above, and then place the calloused end of your cutting into the soil. Push down until the cutting can stay upright without assistance. Place the pot in a spot that receives bright, indirect light and water lightly once a week. Do not allow the soil to become too moist or dry out completely.
- Your cutting should grow roots in about two weeks, whether or not it is placed in potting medium. To check for roots, lightly tug on the plant. If it resists, you have roots.
Problems and Pests
Aeoniums are susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases:
- Root Rot
- Insects
- Mites
- Scale
- Aphids
- Mealybugs
- Ants
Gallery
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A row of Veronica is fronted with Aeonium in this water-wise border.
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This monochrome bed features Aeonium as an architectural centerpiece.
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Aeonium is typically planted in areas with low-growing plants to hide bare stems.
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Videos
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All About Growing Aeoniums!
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Caring for Aeonium
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 135 and 136, Aeonium