Aloe

( AL - loe )

At-A-Glance Information

Aloe is a genus of succulent trees, shrubs, and perennials mainly hailing from South Africa. They need full sun to light shade and little to moderate water to perform well in the landscape. Their flowers attract birds, and can be orange, yellow, cream or red. The biggest show of blooms occurs in summertime, though many species bloom monthly. Leaves are grey-green, often banded or streaked with contrasting colors. Use Aloe plants in rock gardens, drought-tolerant landscapes, or as members of potager gardens. They also make great pollinator or architectural plants in the yard. Take care when cultivating and handling these plants, as the latex produced by Aloes can be irritating to some.

Aloe Species and Varietals

The genus Aloe includes around 650 distinct species and is in the family Asphodelaceae, making them relatives of Asphodel and Red-Hot Poker Plant. These succulents grow best in USDA growing zones 8-11 or Sunset zones 8, 9 and 12-24, though there are some exceptions. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Aloe arborescens (Torch Aloe, Candelabra Plant)
Grows best in USDA growing zones 9-11 or Sunset zones 8, 9, 13-24, H1 and H2, and forms a rounded shrub about 10 feet tall and wide. Branching stems carry grey-green sword-shaped leaves with spiny edges. Winter flowers are salmon colored and held above foliage on spikes. Can withstand salt spray and tolerates shade. Foliage is damaged at around 27 degrees Fahrenheit. Yellow-flowered and variegated forms of this species are cultivated.

Aloe aristata (Aristaloe) (Lace Aloe, Bearded Aloe, Hardy Aloe)
This is a cold-hardy species of Aloe can handle temperatures down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. Plants have a clumping habit and reach about 10 inches tall and wide, with leaves ending in whip-like threads. Leaves are marked with white. Pink to red flowers bloom in summer. This species does well in USDA growing zones 7-10.

Aloe barberae (Aloe bainesii) (Tree Aloe, Giant Tree Aloe, Eastern Tree Aloe)
This species of Aloe generally takes a tree-like form, slow growing to 20-30 feet tall and 10-20 feet wide with forking branches and trunk. Bark is light grey-tan in color. Leaves on rosettes are 2-3 feet long, and spikes of rose-pink flowers bloom in late winter. Commonly called the Dr. Seuss Tree, it is valued for its stately sculptural habit. Hardy to 28 degrees Fahrenheit, and best in USDA growing zones 9-11.

Aloe brevifolia (Short-Leaf Aloe, Crocodile Plant, Blue Aloe, Crocodile Jaws)
This is a low grower and forms spreading clumps of blunt, thick, blue-green spiny leaves. Clusters of orange flowers bloom on 20-inch stalks intermittently all year, heaviest in springtime. Great for small spaces. These plants do well in USDA hardiness zones 9b-11b and are hardy to 25 degrees Fahrenheit.

Aloe ciliaris (Climbing Aloe, Common Climbing Aloe, Fringe-Leaved Aloe)
Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9a-11b or Sunset growing zones 8, 9, 12-24, H1 and H2. Plants have a climbing, sprawling habit with up to 10 foot long stems. Small green leaves have white 'eyelashes' at the base. Flower clusters with 20-30 green to yellow tipped scarlet flowers bloom year-round. Needs a little more shade than other Aloe, but also cannot tolerate frost conditions.

Aloe dawei (Dawe's Aloe, Orange Flame Aloe)
Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9b-11b or Sunset zones 12-24, produces rosettes of bright green leaves with toothed margins form a clump 3-4 feet tall and wide. In late winter to early spring, bright orange-red flowers bloom on branched spikes. Hardy to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, and is best with light shade in the hottest areas. These plants can burn even with reflected heat.

Aloe dichotoma (Kokerboom, Quiver Tree)
This species of Aloe forms a compact tree with grey-green fingerlike leaves. Short clusters of bright yellow flowers appear in wintertime, and it grows slowly to attain a height of 12 feet tall. The trunk is massive and sculptural. Hardy to 27 degrees Fahrenheit. Quiver Tree does well in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9. and 12-24.

Aloe distans (Jewel Aloe, Golden Tooth Aloe)
Has a running, rooting, branching habit that creates clumps of 6-inch green leaves with yellow or white teeth along the edges. In summer, forked stems produce flower clusters of red blooms. Best in USDA growing zones 9-11 and Sunset growing zones 8, 9, and 12-24.

Aloe ferox (Cape Aloe, Bitter Aloe, Red Aloe, Tap Aloe)
A single, large trunk gets to 6-10 feet tall in about 10 years, and is topped by a crown of grey-green, red-toothed leaves 3-4 feet long. Each inflorescence has hundreds of bright scarlet to orange blossoms in late fall and early winter. These plants are hardy down to 25 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit, and do well in USDA hardiness zones 9-12.

Aloe maculata (Aloe saponaria) (Soap Aloe)
This plant produces rosettes on short stems that feature white-spotted green leaves. 1.5-2.5 foot tall branched flower stalks bloom with salmon-orange or yellow blossoms. Can grow as a solitary plant, but can also send out suckers to form dense, expanding colonies. Separate plants when the colony becomes too large. Variety 'Yellow Form' is dense, with lemon yellow flowers that bloom earlier than the species. Best in USDA zones 8b-11b.

Aloe x nobilis (Gold-Tooth Aloe, Noble Aloe, Green and Gold Crown)
Dark green leaves, edged with small hooked teeth form rosettes 1 foot tall and wide. Suckers freely, forming a spreading, mounding clump. Clusters of orange-red flowers on 2 foot stalks bloom in early summer. Great for pots, or in areas where there is limited space for roots. These succulents do well in USDA hardiness zones 9-11.

Aloe polyphylla (Spiral Aloe, Kroonaalwyn, Lekhala Kharetsa)
Grows best in USDA zones 8-11 or Sunset zones 5, 6, and 15-17. This is an unusual plant, and forms a single, stemless rosette 1 foot tall and 1-2 feet wide. Leaves overlap and spiral in the same direction, creating a pinwheel effect. Mature plants generate a stalk 2 feet tall of salmon-pink to light red blossoms in late spring. This species prefers moist slightly acidic soil and needs partial shade in hot areas. Do not fertilize in summertime. Hardy to 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

Aloe speciosa (Tilt-Head Aloe, Beautiful Aloe, Spaansaalwyn, Slaphoringaalwyn, Ikhala)
This species grows in USDA hardiness zones 9a-11b or Sunset growing zones 15-24, and is a tree-like form topped by a single rosette of sword-shaped blue-green leaves. Trunk stands up straight, but rosette sits at a tilt on top towards the sun. In fall, flower spikes about a foot long are dense with tricolored flowers that age from white to dark pink. Hardy to 25 degrees Fahrenheit.

Aloe striata (Coral Aloe)
This plant forms a single 2 foot wide rosette with thick leaves that reach up to 20 inches long. Leaves are grey-green and often spotted and striped, with a narrow pink-red edge. Large branched clusters of coral flowers appear in mid-winter to spring. Coral Aloe does best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11.

Aloe striatula (Hardy Aloe, Striped-Stemmed Aloe)
Hardy, succulent shrub with dark green leaves, that are striped around the bases. Multiple stems form a shrub 5-6 feet tall and 15 feet wide, but can be kept more compact with hard pruning. Single spikes of yellow flowers bloom from yellow-orange buds in summer. Good in USDA hardiness zones 8a-11b.

Aloe thraskii (Dune Aloe, Strand Aloe, Coast Aloe)
Grows in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9, and 12-24. Treelike, topped with arching, recurved leaves that mimic Palm Trees. Leaves are fleshy and grey-green, and yellow-orange flowers bloom in winter. Gets to 10 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide. Best when planted in coastal gardens.

Aloe veriegata (Partridge-Breast Aloe, Tiger Aloe)
This species forms a foot-tall tight rosette of triangular dark green leaves that are banded and edged with white. Clusters of pink to dull red blooms appear in late winter to early springtime. They do best with some shade, and can be grown as a houseplant.

Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) (Medicinal Aloe, Barbados Aloe)
This species grows best in zones 8, 9, 12-24, H1 and H2 and forms clustering rosettes of narrow, upright leaves 1-2 feet in length. A dense spike of yellow flowers appears in spring and summer. Can be used to treat burns, bites, and inflammation. Survives without extra water, but looks better when given ample water.

Caring for Aloe

Take care when cultivating and handling these plants, as the latex produced by Aloes can be irritating to some. Aloe plants are typically purchased as starts from a reputable nursery, or they can be purchased as seed. Spacing of Aloe plants in the landscape depends on the mature size of the species species or cultivar chosen. In general 2-3 feet between plants is sufficient. Choose a space in the garden that gets between 4 and 6 hours of sun each day, with some late afternoon shade when temperatures are at their peak. Too much direct sun can burn the leaves of Aloe plants; they will end up turning a bronze color instead of remaining green. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 5.5 and 8.5 (acidic to slightly alkaline). Amend soil with rocks, sand, and perlite before planting; adequate drainage is critical, as too much moisture in the root some can cause root rot. Avoid using traditional all-purpose soils for Aloe. Apply a layer of gravel or pebble mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, Aloe plants are considered drought tolerant, because their fleshy leaves store water, allowing them to carry themselves through extended periods of dry weather. In wintertime when plants are dormant, lessen waterings to about once every 4-6 weeks.

Fertilizing is not necessary; Aloe plants actually thrive in poor soils, as long as they are well-draining. If plants seem to be struggling, apply an inch of compost over the top of substrate and water it in in springtime. This feeding should be sufficient to carry the plant through the active growing and blooming seasons. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased leaves at any time during the active growing season. Deadhead flower spikes after blooms have faded to neaten up the plant. Aloe plants can flower each year and do not die after producing flowers. Make sure to use clean, sharp shears when pruning to avoid damage and disease transmission. After plants mature, (which typically takes 3-4 years), they will begin producing pups, or offsets. These pus can be severed from the parent plant and replanted elsewhere to avoid overcrowding. For instructions on how to divide Aloe plants, see the Propagation section below. Aloe plants can last for between 10 and 20 years in the landscape before needing to be replaced if cared for properly.

Growing Aloe in Containers
Aloe plants can be grown directly in the ground, but are also commonly grown in containers on patios and walkways or even tabletops. Choose a container that is well-draining; Aloes do very well in pots made of materials that allow excess water to evaporate through the container walls, like Terra Cotta; avoid glazed pottery. Ensure that the container has adequate drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the container with a well-draining potting mix. One that is specifically designed for succulents or cacti works well. Aloes can also be grown in sand or gravel. After planting, apply a layer of pebble or gravel as mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water Aloe plants regularly; about once a week during their active growing and flowering seasons and every 4-6 weeks during dormancy in the cool months of the year. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased leaves at any time during the active growing season. Deadhead flower spikes after blooms have faded to neaten up the plant. After plants mature, (which typically takes 3-4 years), they will begin producing pups, or offsets. These pus can be severed from the parent plant and replanted elsewhere to avoid overcrowding.

Growing Aloe Indoors
Before bringing an Aloe indoors, keep in mind that Aloe grown indoors typically does not flower. They do, however, make great houseplants if located in a sunny space. Ideally, indoor Aloes should be in a south-facing window where they receive at least 6 hours of sun each day. Without extended periods of direct light, Aloes will begin to stretch out and lose their attractive, compact form. Adding supplemental grow light is recommended in low-light situations. Choose a pot that has adequate drainage holes in the bottom and fill it with a well-draining substrate. A potting mix created for succulents or cacti will do well, and Aloes can also be grown in gravel, pebbles, or sand. After planting, apply a layer of pebble or gravel as mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased leaves at any time during the active growing season. Deadhead flower spikes after blooms have faded to neaten up the plant. After plants mature, (which typically takes 3-4 years), they will begin producing pups, or offsets. These pus can be severed from the parent plant and replanted elsewhere to avoid overcrowding.

Harvesting Aloe
Aloe plants are cultivated for their aesthetics as well as their useful mucilage, also called Aloe Vera gel. The species most commonly cultivated for its gel is Aloe barbadensis, also known as Aloe Vera. Aloe plants can be harvested when they reach 2-3 years of age. Harvest only the outer, thicker leaves and leave the inner, younger leaves to continue developing. If not harvesting the whole plant, make sure to leave at least 1/3 of the foliage remaining after harvest to ensure the plant survives the experience. Using sharp, clean shears or a knife, remove the leaf from the plant and hold the cut end down so that the Aloin (a bitter, yellow-ish sap) can run out. Rinse the leaf under cool water, and then lay it flat on a table or cutting board. Filet off the skin, including the yellowish layer, until a clear to white translucent flesh is exposed. Rinse and then use. Aloe in its purest form can be added to smoothies or juiced with other vegetables or used topically to treat minor burns or scrapes. Simply squeeze the juicy sap onto the affected area. A single Aloe leaf can produce 1/2 to 1 cup of gel, though this varies significantly depending on the size of the plant. It is best to only harvest what will be used within a week, as the gel lasts about that long without extra preservatives like powdered vitamin C or E.

Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.

Propagation

Take care when cultivating and handling these plants, as the latex produced by Aloes can be irritating to some. The best way to propagate an Aloe plant is through separation of pups from the parent plant, also called division. Aloe plants can be propagated via seed, as well, though not all cultivars of Aloe species produce viable seed. To propagate your Aloe plant, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Aloe by Division
The easiest way to propagate an Aloe plant is by pulling off pups and replanting them. The pups will come out of the ground easily with a hand shovel when they are young, so make sure to catch them when they are small (just a few inches in diameter). This is a good practice to engage in, even when you're not looking to propagate your Aloe, because it will discourage the plant from forming a colony in the landscape. To propagate your Aloe by pups, you'll need a clean trowel and knife and a pot filled with gritty sand or with cactus/succulent potting mix. Once you've gathered your materials, follow these steps:

Loosen the soil around the bottom of your Aloe plant where the pup has formed and locate the root that is connecting it to the parent plant. Cut the root with a sharp trowel. Take care to not cut off any of the other roots that are coming out of your pup.
Gently dig up the pup, keeping as many roots attached as possible. Then, place your pup in a shaded, dry area that receives good ventilation for a few days, until it forms a callous where it was cut from the parent plant.
Plant your pup in your pot filled with potting mix and lightly moisten the soil, ensuring that adequate drainage is occurring. Place the container in an area that receives bright light and stays relatively warm.
Give the pup water every time the top inch or two of soil dry out, but don't saturate the soil. After a few weeks of this watering schedule, the pup should be ready to be planted outside in its permanent home. Then, follow the instructions in the care section to grow your pup into an adult plant.

Propagating Aloe by Seed
After flowers have faded, seed pods will form in their place. The pods will mature, turn brown and dry, and begin to split open when seeds are ready to be released. At this time, remove the flowering stem from the plant and harvest the seeds, placing them in an airtight storage container in a cool, dark, dry place until ready to work with them. Aloe seeds can remain viable for about a year after harvesting; it is best to use newly harvested seeds for best results.

To increase germination rates, seeds can be scarified and pre-soaked. Nick the seed coats with a sharp knife and then place the seeds in a bowl filled with lukewarm water. Leave seeds in water for about 24 hours to soften the seed coat, and then sow. Gather your materials and fill your pot with gritty sand or with cactus/succulent potting mix and smooth out the top without pressing down too much. Place the seeds on top of the soil and cover them with a thin layer of more gritty sand or potting mix.
Water your seeds, being careful to not disturb their placement. Keep the seeds moist but not wet as they germinate, which should happen between a few weeks and a few months. Your pot or tray should be in an area that receives bright, indirect light. It is important to attempt to grow more than a few seeds, as it is likely that not all seeds will germinate successfully. The germination rate for Aloe seeds is around 50%. After most of the seeds have sprouted, increase ventilation and provide seedlings with good light, but not direct sun. About five weeks after germination, cut watering to about once a week, allowing the soil to dry out in between waterings. Do not provide water if the soil is still moist.
Your new Aloe can be planted out into the garden once it has reached 4-6 inches tall and has a well-formed root system. Harden off plants before installing in the landscape.