Amydrium

( am - ih - DREE - um )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of plants includes species with beautiful tropical foliage that commonly has fenestrations, as in many Monstera species. Species are native to southeast Asia, China, and New Guinea. Foliage typically has a silvery to glaucous sheen or hue. Plants in the genus are hemi-epiphytic, meaning they spend most of their juvenile life growing off of other plants like trees or shrubs, and after maturity extend to the soil and put down roots. Most require support to climb and grow into their full large-leaved forms. Use these herbaceous tropicals to add foliage color contrast to mixed areas of the garden, or simply grow them indoors as specimens. Take care when planting these in the landscape or keeping them as houseplants, as plant parts are toxic to humans and pets if ingested.

Amydrium Species and Varietals

The small genus Amydrium is a member of the plant family Araceae and includes just five species. The best growing zones for these plants vary depending on the species, though in in general in temperate zones, Amydriums are typically grown as an indoor or greenhouse plants. See the descriptions below for more information. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Amydrium hainanense (Hainan Amydrium)
This species is native to an area that ranges from southern China to northern Vietnam, and prefers densely forested areas in valleys or near bodies of water. The species produces green foliage, commonly with holes at maturity. Young leaves are whole. This species typically grows as a creeping plant against trees or over rocks.

Amydrium humile (Humble Amydrium)
These plants are native to Peninsular Malaysia and Sumatra, and produce large, heart-shaped leaves. They typically reach up to between 1 and 10 feet tall or long, and have a vining habit to them. These plants do well in USDA hardiness zones 10a-12b or indoors as houseplants.

Amydrium medium (Spiderman Monstera)
This species has a native range that includes Thailand, Myanmar, Cambodia, Malaysia, Singapore, and areas in the Philippines. Spiderman Monstera is generally best in USDA hardiness zones 10-12 or as houseplants or greenhouse specimens. In its natural habitat, it can produce vining stems that reach up to 33 feet long, but in cultivation typically reaches to about a foot long.

Caring for Amydrium

These tropical plants can be grown outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 10-12 (though this varies depending on the species), but are more commonly grown as greenhouse or indoor houseplants in other zones. Choose a spot in the landscape that is sheltered from drying winds, extreme fluctuations in temperatures, and frost. These plants prefer bright indirect light over direct sunlight during the day. They are naturally understory plants, and do well in shady beds. Although they can climb and clamber over anything, most gardeners choose to provide them with a moss pole or similar structure to climb. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention.

Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants perform well in consistently moist soils. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings in order to stave off root rot or other fungal issues. Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. When temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, provide protection with frost cloth or a space heater. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. If plants become leggy or sparse, they can be trimmed back; do not remove more than a third of overall growth at any one time to avoid shocking the plant. Amydriums rarely produce flowers in cultivation, but can be deadheaded after they fade if they are produced. If well-cared for, Amydriums can last for years in the landscape.

Growing Amydrium Indoors
Although Amydriums can be grown outdoors in warmer zones, they are more commonly cultivated as houseplants or greenhouse specimens, especially in temperate climates. Choose a container that has adequate drainage holes on the bottom that is a few inches larger and deeper than the plant's root ball. Fill the pot with well-draining but moisture-retentive soil. They do well in a blend of perlite, orchid bark, and coco coir. Provide the vine with a moss pole or similar structure to climb; vining stems will not support themselves. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants perform well in consistently moist soils. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings in order to stave off root rot or other fungal issues. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. If plants become leggy or sparse, they can be trimmed back; do not remove more than a third of overall growth at any one time to avoid shocking the plant. Repot plants when they outgrow their current container; a general rule of thumb is to repot when roots start growing through the drainage holes at the base of the container.

Propagation

The easiest way to propagate Amydrium is via cuttings. To propagate your vine, you'll need a clean, sharp pair of garden shears, a glass jar, moist paper towels, and some water. Later on in the process, a pot filled with well-draining potting soil will be needed. Amydriums do well in a blend of perlite, orchid bark, and coco coir. To complete the propagation process, follow the directions below:

Gather your materials in springtime, when your plant is sending out new growth. Make sure to water the plant the night before; this will increase the chances of a successful propagation. Using shears, take a cutting about 4 inches long from the tip of a branch with new growth on the end. Taking the cutting early in the morning will ensure that the cutting will be engorged with water.
Fill your glass jar halfway with water, and stick your cutting in. There should be no leaves below the water line. If there are, strip them off of the cutting before setting it into the water. Ensure that there is at least one node below the water line. Set the jar in an area that receives indirect light. When roots start to form and reach about an inch long, you'll want to transfer your cutting to a pot filled with potting soil.
Continue to water your cutting. Once it has rooted, which should take just a few weeks, you can move it to a sunnier location close to a window. Repot as needed as the plant grows.