Anthurium

( an - THUR - ee -um )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of flowering plants is commonly known as Flamingo Flower, Tail-Flower, Laceleaf, and Painted Tongue Plant. They are native to Mexico, Argentina, and the Caribbean. and form a tight spike of small flowers surrounded by large, flattened bracts that come in various colors. These plants are commonly epiphytic, meaning they grow on the structure of other plants. Take care when planting Flamingo Flower in your garden, as plant parts are toxic to humans and pets if ingested, and can also cause skin irrigation on contact.

anthurium Species and Varietals

The genus Anthurium is a member of the plant family Araceae and includes around 22 species. The genus name is derived from the Greek words for flower (anthos) and tail (oura) referring to the spadix spike that resembles the tail of an animal. The best growing zones for these plants vary depending on the species, though generally they do well in USDA hardiness zones 10-12.. See the descriptions below for more information. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Anthurium amnicola (Tulip Anthurium, Tulip Tailflower, Hawaiian Tulip)
Native to Panama, this species is cultivated for use in the cut flower industry and is also sold occasionally as a houseplant. Individual plants reach up to about 12 inches tall, and produce short-stalked dark green leaves and pink spathes. Good in USDA hardiness zones 10-12; provide protection when temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anthurium andraeanum (Flamingo Flower, Tailflower, Painter's Palette, Oilcloth Flower, Laceleaf)
This species is native to Colombia and Ecuador, and prefers shady, warm and humid climates. These plants naturally grow in tropical rainforests, and spathes are commonly bright red or pink. These plants reach 1-2 feet tall and just as wide when mature and in bloom. Leaves are dark green and heart-shaped.

Anthurium bakeri (Baker's Anthurium, Strap-Leaf Anthurium)
This species of Anthurium is native to Mexico, Central America, and South America. It produces strappy leaves and bright red flowers. This species is occasionally sold as a houseplant. These plants perform well when grown in USDA hardiness zones 10-11.

Anthurium clarinervium (Velvet Cardboard Anthurium, Velvet Leaf Anthurium, Esqueleto)
This species is native to Mexico, and produces forest green leaves with velvety surfaces. Leaves commonly have veining with lighter colors and are heart-shaped. Individual plants reach up to 16-24 inches tall when mature. The species does well in USDA hardiness zones 11 and 12.

Anthurium clidemioides (Tomato Anthurium)
This native of Costa Rica, Panama, and Colombia has light to very dark green leaves that are almost stalkless. These plants are vining and climbing, and produce roots between nodes. This is a very distinctive species of Anthurium, and is sought after as a houseplant specimen. These plants do well in USDA hardiness zones 10-12 and prefer temperatures to stay between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anthurium coloradense (Flamingo Flower, Tailflower)
This Panama native is a terrestrial shrub with thin, veined leaves and a yellow-green spadix. Plants can reach up to 12-18 inches tall and 9-12 inches wide as a houseplant. Flamingo Flower is best in USDA hardiness zones 10-12.

Anthurium corrugatum (Corrugated Anthurium, Pebbled-Leaf Anthurium)
This species is native to Central and South America. Leaves have a network of fine veins, and these plants grow terrestrially and are adapted to cool, humid climates. Best in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11. Protect from temperatures that drop under 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anthurium crystallinum
These plants do well as houseplants, and have earned the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit. Leaves are large and green to dark green, veined with white or cream. They are considered somewhat delicate and are not recommended for novice collectors. This species is widely hybridized. These plants do well in USDA hardiness zones 10-12.

Anthurium cubense (Bird's Nest Anthurium, Cuban Anthurium, Lance-Leaf Anthurium)
This species is commonly kept as a hothouse specimen or as a house plant, and is a parent species of the hybrid cultivar 'Big Bill' (alongside Anthurium pendulifolium). Best in USDA zones 10-12; sensitive to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anthurium forgetii (Teardrop Plant, Velvet Shield Plant, Forgetii)
This species of Anthurium is native to Colombia, and is commonly cultivated as a houseplant. Leaves have silver veining, and the plant is epiphytic. They grow to reach 12-18 inches tall when grown as indoor or greenhouse plants. Best in USDA growing zones 10-12.

Anthurium gracile (Red Pearls Anthurium)
This species can be kept well as a houseplant, and is epiphytic in nature. These plants need excellent drainage to perform well. Individual plants reach up to 1-3 feet tall and wide at maturity when grown as indoor plants. Red Pearls Anthurium does best in USDA hardiness zones 9b-11, and thrives in conditions that mimic its native tropical and subtropical rainforest habitat.

Anthurium hookeri (Bird's Nest Anthurium)
Leaves on this species are green, covered with small black glandular punctures. Berries produced after flowers fade are white. Plants sold in the houseplant trade under this name are almost always hybrids and not the true species. Plants reach 2-5 feet tall with a spread of 3-4 feet at maturity. This species does well in USDA hardiness zones 10-12. Mature plants can handle temperatures down to 45 degrees Fahrenheit for short periods of time.

Anthurium magnificum (Magnificent Anthurium, Velvet Leaf Anthurium, Velvet Heart-Shaped Aroid)
This Anthurium is native to Columbia, and closely resembles other species like Anthurium crystallinum. It has dark green leaves with prominent veining and is terrestrial. Petioles are quadrangular. Plants reach 18-24 inches tall and 20 inches wide when mature. These plants grow well in USDA zones 10-12 and prefer warm, humid climates but can also be grown as greenhouse specimens or houseplants.

Anthurium marmoratum (Marbled Anthurium, Velvet-Leaved Anthurium)
This velvet-leaved species of Anthurium is native to western Colombia and Ecuador, where it grows in humid rainforested areas. These plants do well in USDA hardiness zones 10-12 or as indoor or greenhouse plants. Individual plants reach up to 6 feet tall when given support.

Anthurium paillilaminum (Papillate Anthurium, Velvet Leaf Anthurium)
This species has very dark green leaves on short stems. Leaves are velvety and can reach up to 18-24 inches long. These plants are native to Panama, and reach up to 1.5-3 feet tall with a compact, bushy growth habit. These plants are best when grown in USDA hardiness zones 11 to 12. They can also be grown as indoor plants or greenhouse specimens.

Anthurium pedatoradiatum (Anthurium Fingers, Fingers Anthurium)
This native of southern Mexico has leaves that are deeply cut, resembling long-fingered hands. Plants reach up to 1-3 feet tall at a moderate rate, and produce leaves that can be up to 2 feet long. Anthurium Fingers grows well in USDA hardiness zones 10-11, preferring temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They can be grown as greenhouse or indoor plants.

Anthurium regale (Regal Anthurium, King Anthurium)
This species is well-known for its large leaves with deep white veins, and was first described by Europeans in the publication La Belgique Horticole (1866) and was first collected by Gustav Wallis during his time working for Jean Jules Linden. Outdoors, this species prefers USDA hardiness zones 10-11, and temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anthurium rimbachii (Flamingo Flower, Tailflower, Laceleaf)
This species of Anthurium is endemic to Ecuador, and grows well in subtropical to tropical moist lowland forest areas. It is threatened by habitat loss in its native range. Individual plants reach up to a few feet tall and wide at maturity when grown in pots, reaching much larger in their native habitats. These plants grow well in USDA hardiness zones 10-12 outdoors, or as a greenhouse specimen or indoors in any zone.

Anthurium scherzerianum (Flamingo Flower, Pigtail Plant, Pigtail Anthurium, Tail Flower, Scherzer's Flamingo Plant, Heart Flower, Painters Palette
This native of Costa Rica is commonly grown as an ornamental houseplant, and is epiphytic. These plants reach up to 12-18 inches tall and 9-12 inches wide. Best in USDA hardiness zones 11 and 12, preferring temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and a healthy amount of humidity.

Anthurium schlechtendalii (Pheasant's Tail Anthurium, Cola de Fasian)
This species is native to Mexico and Costa Rica, and prefers USDA hardiness zones 10-12 when grown as an outdoor tropical plant. It can also be grown indoors as a houseplant or as a specimen in a greenhouse. Individual plants reach up to 3-5 feet tall and 3 or more feet wide. Leaves are large, green and leathery and can reach 3 feet long when plants are mature.

Anthurium veitchii (King Anthurium)
This species is well-known for its impressively long leaves and is grown commonly as a houseplant or greenhouse plant. The specific epithet vetchii refers to the plant being featured prominently at a longstanding group of plant nurseries based in Exeter, UK (founded by John Veitch). Plants reach 2-6 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide at maturity when grown in captivity. It can do well outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9-11.

Anthurium warocqueanum (Queen Anthurium)
This species is native to Colombia, and grows well as a greenhouse specimen or when grown as an ornamental houseplant. It is a velvet-leaved Anthurium, and is named for the horticulturalist Arthur Warocque. These plants are highly sought after for its stunning foliage, but is difficult to care for, needing high humidity, indirect light, and well-draining soil. Best in USDA hardiness zones 10-12, and prefers temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anthurium watermaliense (Black Anthurium, Black Prince)
This species is native to Costa Rica, Panama, and Colombia. It produces dark purple spathes and is popularly grown as a houseplant. Leaves are green and have light green veining. These plants are best in USDA hardiness zones 10-12, where temperatures do not drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anthurium wendlingeri (Strap-Leaved Anthurium)
This native of Central and South America grows in wet tropical habitats as an epiphytic shrub and has long, pendant leaves that can be slightly velvety. Spadix is uniquely spiraled. Variety Anthurium wendlingeri horichii is native to Costa Rica, and is less commonly found in the trade. This species is best in USDA hardiness zones 10a-11b, and thrives in warm, tropical, humid climates.

Caring for Anthurium

Anthurium plants are grown in most regions of the world as greenhouse or indoor plants, but they can also be grown outdoors in tropical and subtropical areas where temperatures remain above 60 degrees year-round. To care for Anthurium outdoors, choose a space in the landscape that is protected and gets filtered sun or bright, indirect light. These plants are understory plants in tropical forested areas, and therefore cannot take direct sunlight, which will scorch their leaves. Ensure that soil is well-draining, fertile, and has a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5 (slightly acidic). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants prefer to have consistently moist soils. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower stems to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Provide protection when temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Anthuriums when properly cared for can last for many years in the landscape before needing to be replaced.

Growing Anthurium in Containers
Anthuriums are commonly grown in containers, which is a good option for horticulturalists in cooler zones. Plants can be grown outdoors during the warmer months of the year and brought into a sheltered location over winter. Choose a container that has adequate drainage holes in the bottom to allow excess water to flow away. Place a tray underneath with pebbles to catch water and keep humidity up. Soil should be well-draining; Anthurium plants prefer a soil that is coarse and well-draining; an Orchid or Bromeliad potting mix is ideal. Water Anthuriums grown in containers regularly; keep the soil relatively moist but allow soil to dry out between waterings to discourage root rot issues from taking hold. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Provide protection when temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit; bring plants indoors over winter in temperate zones.

Growing Anthurium Indoors
Anthuriums make great indoor houseplants; choose a pot that has adequate drainage holes in the bottom, and fill with a well-draining substrate; an Orchid or Bromeliad potting mix is ideal for these plants. Place in an area that receives bright, indirect light but not direct sun, which can scorch the leaves. Low light is not ideal, either, and can lead to stunted growth and fewer flowers. Anthuriums grown in containers will need more frequent waterings than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water deeply whenever the top two inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Ensure that the humidity stays relatively high by using a humidifier, pebble tray, or by misting the plant regularly. They prefer temperatures stay between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit; ensure that they are not getting any cool drafts from fans, open doors and windows, or air conditioning vents. Prune to remove spent flowers as they fade, and take off any dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the active growing season.

Harvesting Anthurium
Anthurium flowers are used in fresh arrangements, lasting between 14 and 21 days in a vase of water. The central spadix is typically yellow-green to white and the spathes can vary widely in color. The two species commonly cultivated for their cut flowers are Anthurium scherzerianum and Anthurium andreanum. Each plant can produce about 8 flowers a year if cared for properly. Harvesting typically commences between 3-6 months after planting, when the spathe has completely unfurled and the spadix is well-developed with at least 1/3 of the flowers open. Harvest in the morning, after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Using sharp, cleaned shears, cut the flowering stem at its base and drop it into a bucket of cool water.

Propagation

Anthurium, or Flamingo Flower, can be propagated by division, cutting or seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division or cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant, especially if you are propagating a hybrid cultivar. To propagate your Flamingo Flowers, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Anthurium by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest the seeds; they are located inside of the berries that form along the spadix after successful pollination of flowers. There are typically between 1 and 3 seeds in each berry. They will be plump and fully colored (either red, orange or white) when they are mature. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag to bring indoors. Once at a workstation, cut or squeeze the berries to release the seeds, rinse them, and then lay them out on a flat surface to dry off a little. Do not allow them to fully dry out. Seeds can be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark area for a short period, but are best when used fresh. Before sowing, soak seeds in lukewarm water for 12 hours to enhance germination rates.
Get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with a spray bottle, taking care to not dislodge them. Place the tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-6 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Propagating Anthurium by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) peat moss and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
In early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more cuttings with a visible node and at least one leaf. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much. Cuttings can alternatively be placed in a clean glass or jar with water and transplanted to soil when roots reach 1-2 inches long.
Moisten the soil with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new plant.

Propagating Anthurium by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil, compost and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Anthurium plants prefer a soil that is coarse and well-draining; an Orchid or Bromeliad potting mix is ideal. Division is best done in early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth). To propagate your Flamingo Flower by division, follow these steps:

Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the roots. Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
Start to tease apart the roots with your fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick root section attached.
Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divisions and water thoroughly.
Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout in the next growing season.