In the days leading up to independence day this year, we have been thinking a lot about the state of our country. With one of the most stressful and divisive elections in our history now a few months past, we are all settling down for the summer and are ready to celebrate our country's independence. The United States is known for its resilient population, able to handle natural disasters, political scandals, and other times of struggle in stride.

During WWII, Eleanor Roosevelt planted an example victory garden on the White House lawn. At first, the Department of Agriculture objected, fearing that starting a victory garden movement would hurt the commercial food production industry in the country, but did end up disseminating public service booklets about basic home gardening practices. Local communities had festivals and competitions to showcase the produce people grew in their own gardens. While the garden movement united some communities, it segregated others, as separate prizes were given to produce grown by non-whites, a trend that was especially popular in the deep south.

Although we are not currently in a time of war (and hopefully will not be any time soon), the ability of our agricultural supply chain cannot always keep up with the needs of our growing population. We can all remember the shortages that occurred during COVID due to factory shut-downs, and with climate change and pest issues like the latest outbreak of the invasive Spotted Lanternfly becoming more frequent, there is a great need in our country for an insulating buffer. Enter the victory garden.

Self-sufficiency, in a nutshell, refers to the ability of an individual to take care of themselves without outside help. The higher number of households that can be self-sufficient, the less stress will be put on our already struggling agricultural industry. Returning our country to a state that values this quality is of utmost importance, because it has the potential to lower emissions, reduce food waste, lessen pollutive runoff from large-scale agriculture areas, and increase the well-being of our citizens. The best part is, all of this can be done without spending much money.

Traditional crops grown in these gardens included leafy greens, beans, watermelons, and tomatoes. The main deciding factor in choosing crops to grow in a household victory garden is knowing what your family will and will not eat. If nobody in the family likes beets, it's probably not a good choice to grow them. Also, it is important to consider space limitations and crop rotation as a way to maximize how much produce is reaped from planting beds. In most regions of the country, 'cool season' crops, including leafy lettuces, root vegetables, and peas, are planted in March. 'Warm season' crops are planted when the soil is warmer around June, and include zucchini, cucumber, tomato, and pepper.

Make sure to check out the resources in our Home Gardening Course to brush up on your cultivation skills and learn some new things while you are planning your very own Victory Garden.

There are certain garden tasks that need to be done every year. Soil needs to be provided with nutrients, mulch needs replacing, irrigation needs checking, and as anyone with roses will tell you, those bushes need to be pruned. Roses are definitely high-maintenance superstars of the garden, with their lush foliage and striking flowers. Each year, they need to be pruned in order to increase in size, produce more blooms, be more full and balanced, and have better health overall. Most roses need to be pruned just once a year, thankfully, and the time to do it is just around the corner. In wintertime, between the months of December and February, roses are dormant, meaning that they are not putting on growth, they are not flowering or fruiting, and they typically do not need much ongoing care. This is the perfect time to prune.

You'll need gloves, preferably ones that go a bit up your forearm. Roses have prickles, which can tear through both clothing and skin, and it's best to protect yourself in advance. Depending on the size of your rosebush, you'll need either some regular pruning shears or long-handled lopping shears (or both!). A smaller-size saw may be handy as well, if a larger renovation is going to be completed on the shrub at this time. Make sure all tools are clean and sharpened before use. Using dull blades to cut through branches and stems can leave jagged, uneven cuts that catch moisture, and may lead to fungal problems later on. Clean tools are necessary to prevent the spread of pests and disease between plants.

Canes that are crossing (especially those that are touching) should be remedied by the removal of one. If there are any canes that are very thin (thinner than the girth of a pencil), they can be removed as well. Next, move towards the bottom of the plant and remove any debris covering the base. Search for any suckers, which are extra-vigorous shoots that arise from the rootstock of your rose variety. Make sure to cut these all the way back down to where they connect with the trunk.

Now is the time you get to start making some decisions about your rosebush. Choose between 3 and 6 strong, healthy canes towards the outside of the plant. Trim these back so that there are just 3-5 buds on each cane. These will be the canes that put on the most growth when spring rolls around, and they will form the general shape of the shrub going forward. Finally, remove all leaves from the bush. Diseases and insects tend to overwinter in the leaves, so this helps to prevent any issues in the coming season.

Rambler roses have pendulous canes and can also be great groundcover-type roses. They produce canes that can reach up to 10-15 feet long in just one season, and produce the best flowers and foliage on old wood. This coming year's greatest blooms will come from last year's growth. Prune these immediately after they are done flowering, removing some of the older large canes and giving it a general trim for shape and size.

And there you have it! Remember to clean your tools after you're done, and replace any mulch around the base of your roses that may have gotten shuffled around during the pruning process. If there is still some frosty weather to be had in your area before springtime rolls around, make sure to protect your newly-pruned roses and any new growth they may send out in response. 

There are many things that backyard gardeners can do over the winter months to prepare themselves for the growing season ahead, one of them being cleaning out seed storage areas. It's important to check for seed viability at this time of the year, because although we are not quite ready to plant our seeds yet, we do need to know if we can use the seeds we have or if we will need to order more. This is the time of year when seed catalogs come out; a good reminder to check our stock. In general, most vegetable and flower seeds will last around a year, though this shelf life can be extended to as much as 10 years if proper procedures are followed. The three most important factors in storing seeds are moisture, temperature, and light. Seeds like to hang out in a purgatory that is cool, dry, and dark. This cuts down the chances that seeds will mold, sprout, or otherwise go bad. Seeds also will fade in germination rates with time; if a packet of seeds was purchased a few years ago and went unused, it's possible that the seeds inside are now out of the window of viability.

This seed viability test takes between 7 and 10 days to complete, and begins with a moist paper towel, laid flat. Place a row of 10 seeds on the paper towel along one edge, and roll up loosely, making sure the seeds stay in place. Next, place the damp paper towel in a sealable plastic bag or other container (like a clear Tupperware) and put it in a spot that receives bright, indirect light and is warm. Many home gardeners choose the top of their refrigerator for this purpose, as it stays around 70 degrees. Over the next week or so, check the bag periodically for moisture. If the towel is beginning to dry out, add moisture by spraying with a spray bottle and resealing the bag. At the end of the 7-10 days, remove the paper towel from the bag and check to see how many seeds have sprouted. Some seeds may need longer to germinate, make sure to check your seed packets or online sources to confirm how many days your specific seeds will need for this process.

The general rule of thumb is if less than 7 out of the 10 seeds tested have sprouted, then you're going to want to order more seeds of that variety for planting this year. If between 70% and 90% of the seeds have sprouted, you should be good to get them in the ground once the weather warms up (or start them indoors). Many people will toss the germination test seeds, but they can also be planted in flats if they are carefully handled, and grown indoors until the last frost of the year has passed.

If you're like many home gardeners, you'll have a good amount of non-viable seeds. This happens, and doesn't necessarily mean that they were stored improperly or that any part of the process was done incorrectly. Sometimes seeds just don't make it if they're not in their natural habitat. The silver lining is that there are many seed companies online, or you can visit a local seed library.

For more information on seeds, take a look at the Seed module of our Home Gardening Course:

Happy testing, and feel free to comment below about the effectiveness of your seed storage techniques and results of your viability testing this year; We grow together!

A well-maintained garden not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of your home but also adds value to your property. However, achieving and maintaining such beauty requires consistent attention, care, and expertise. For many homeowners, the question arises: how often should you hire a gardener to keep your residential landscape in prime condition? The answer varies based on a number of factors, including the size of the property, the types of plants in the landscape, your local climate, and personal preferences. In this post, we’ll explore the various considerations that impact the frequency of hiring a gardener, along with the benefits of professional garden care.

Each garden is unique, and how often a maintenance crew should visit is largely dependent on the specific requirements of various elements of the garden. For instance, a simple lawn with a few flower beds will have different needs than one with a backyard orchard. Landscape elements include:

The unique climate of a landscape as well as seasonal changes in weather can affect how often garden maintenance is required. Different plants have varying growth cycles, and the care they require changes with the seasons.

In addition to having a maintenance crew visit the landscape, many home gardeners will complete some garden tasks on their own. This can save money in the long run, and can actually be a very enjoyable way to pass free time. How much time homeowners have to dedicate to garden care is an important consideration when deciding how often to hire a garden crew. If you are a busy professional or simply just do not have the time to care for your garden, hiring a gardener of a weekly or bi-weekly basis can ensure that your landscape remains in good condition throughout the year. If you enjoy gardening as a hobby and have a lot of free time, you may only need professional care four times a year.

Arguably the most important factor in how often a professional garden crew is hired for maintenance is budget. Professional gardening services can vary greatly in cost depending on the location, the size of a property, and the specific services required. Many gardening sercices offer package deals for regular maintenance, which can be more cost-effective than hiring a gardener on an as-needed basis. Newer garden maintenance companies have subscription plans with options to add services on an as-needed basis.

A day of garden maintenance is about 8 hours, and a half-day is considered 4. Basic gardeners in the Bay Area, California get paid an average of $25 an hour, which works out to $200 for a full day and $100 for a half day of maintenance. Labor price per hour varies depending on location, and the level of garden care provided. Materials like mulch, topsoil, compost, and plants are extra costs incurred by homeowners, as well, though some subscription gardening companies are changing this, building anticipated regular maintenance materials into their pricing structure.

Hiring a professional gardening service has many benefits beyond simply the convenience factor. Here are some of the key advantages:

as soon as it was brought home from the birthday party. An ideal planting site for these shrubs is in partial shade, though they can take full sun for most of the day as long as they get shade during the warmest hours (usually between 2 and 6 PM). Hydrangeas like slightly acidic soil with a pH of between 5.8 and 6.2 that is well-draining but kept moist. 

Pinky Winky Hydrangeas are also sold by some nurseries as small trees, which can reach about 8 feet tall with a 6 foot wide crown. For more information on more species and varieties of Hydrangea, as well as care information, click the link below to be taken to their plant page:

What's Going On?
It looks like this Hydrangea is in serious need of some water. With the somewhat cooler weather we've had in the past week here in the Bay Area, many gardeners took a short break from watering their plants so frequently (I know I did!). But it's important to remember that the plants we care for (especially those grown in pots) still do need to be at least checked for soil moisture daily; they have no way of sending their roots further down in search of water. Watering once a week is not sufficient for a Hydrangea plant in a nursery pot, a more ideal watering schedule would be at least 2-3 times per week.

Also, by this point the soil in the pot is most likely hydrophobic, meaning that it will not do a great job absorbing water for roots to use. Most of the water will run off the top of the soil, down the sides of the root ball inside the container, and right out the holes in the bottom without so much as touching a root. Further concerning the root system of the plant, it is possible that because the pot size is so small, the plant is root-bound. Luckily, all of these issues are fixable.

To try to save this plant, we'll do some initial pruning and soil rehydration followed with a repotting and top dressing. 

A Little Haircut
Cut off the flowers on this Hydrangea plant. Flowers take a lot of water to form and bloom, and cutting them off will allow the plant to send more of its energy and resources to repairing itself and forming a strong root system. If there are any smaller flower buds on the plant, cut them off as well.

Rehydrate the Soil
Fill a 5-gallon bucket or similar container with water and lower the Hydrangea in its container into the water. It will try to stay afloat at first, but the longer it is held under, the more it will take on water and become less buoyant. Once the pot is staying under the water on its own, it can be pulled out and set aside to drain. Repeat this process every 2-3 days until water poured at the base of the main stem is readily absorbed by the soil.

Find a pot with nice drainage holes that is 4-5 inches wider in diameter than the nursery pot and fill the bottom of the pot with well-draining potting soil. A good mix for container-grown Hydrangeas is a standard potting mix with a scoop of perlite and a generous amount of compost thrown in. Don't worry about fertilizing at this point; it's possible that it will overwhelm the plant's recovering root system to have to deal with so many changes at once. Add enough soil to the bottom of the pot so that when the nursery pot is set inside, it sits about 2 inches below the container rim. Then, remove the Hydrangea from its nursery pot and check out the root system.

Make sure that the Hydrangea is surrounded with enough soil to keep it in place, but don't pack it down too much. The soil should have enough pore space to allow for healthy root growth. Give the new pot a soaking and ensure that good drainage is happening. 

Topdress the Pot
​The final step to bringing the Hydrangea back to full health is to add a 2 inch layer of organic mulch to the soil surface. Ensure that the mulch doesn't go right up to the main stem of the plant, keep it about 2-3 inches away. Adding mulch to your container will help to keep moisture in the soil, suppress weed growth, and maintain soil temperature.

After taking these steps, it's time to sit back and watch your Hydrangea recover. The container should be placed in an area that is somewhat sheltered for a while, to avoid any other issues from taking hold while the plant is vulnerable. Make sure it is protected from direct afternoon sun, and water every 2-3 days after checking for soil moisture. If an eventual goal is to put the plant in the ground, wait until next springtime to give it time to recover and get used to the climate in your garden. With some luck, this plant will be saved!

When evaluating droopy plants, it is critical to determine the wetness of soil at the root ball level. Begin by removing the mulch from underneath your plant, and find a place where you can stick your finger into the soil close to the root ball. If it is wet an inch or two down, the plant has enough water and is probably drooping due to the heat from the sun. In this situation, see if you can give plants some much-needed shade during the warmest parts of the day (which is usually between 2:00 and 3:00 PM). If plants are in containers, you can physically move them underneath overhangs or to shaded sides of your home. If they are in the ground, shade can be provided with a strategically-placed umbrella or shade screen.

If your soil feels dry under your drooping plant, it is a clear sign that it needs more water. Evaluate how you are watering your plant, how the soil is absorbing that water, and whether your plant can even be saved. Drip systems are considered the best for watering most landscape plants because they provide water slowly enough for the soil to have time to absorb moisture. If water is applied at to fast of a rate (via a hose or sprinkler system), water will simply run off the soil surface to lower areas of the landscape, and not be absorbed by the soil that your plant is pulling its water from. In some situations, water corrections may be made too late to save the plant and it will need to be removed and replaced with something a little more tolerant of heat and drought. Thankfully, you can find a replacement plant in the list below.

The following plants were chosen for their resistances to drought and heat stress. These plants are beautiful, hardy, easy to care for, and are great choices for western landscapes.

Even though gardening in the summer months can be a bit frustrating, using the plants above can go a long way in creating a landscape that is both beautiful and low-maintenance over the warmer months of the year. Monitoring your garden for signs of water stress is critical to keeping plants healthy and happy, and thankfully cooler temperatures will come around again in just a few months' time.

Happy gardening!

According to the National Garden Bureau, Cucumber (Cucumis sativa) plants are grown in at least half of home gardens in the United States. There are many different varieties to choose from, including slicing, pickling, and burpless. Cucumbers are great plants for the backyard edible garden - they require full sun, and do fantastic against fences or trellises, where their tendrils will have fun climbing up a vertical surface. They are actually great for covering areas of fence, reaching between 2 and 8 feet tall during the growing season. If you are growing your cucumbers to be eaten fresh, 2-3 plants per person in the household should be sufficient, and if you are growing your cucumbers with the intention of pickling, about 3-4 plants will create a quart of pickles.

To maximize harvest even more, companion plants can be installed near Cucumbers. Growing these plants alongside one another is incredibly beneficial to the overall health of the garden, increasing yields and repelling pests, as well as enticing beneficial pollinators to enter the space. 

In addition to there being great companion plantings for Cucumbers, there are also some plants that should be avoided:

Now that you've got a better idea of how to build a synergistic garden space for Cucumber plants, it's time to plant! The best time to plant seedling Cucumbers is right now (the best time to sow Cucumber seeds for planting was back in mid to late spring, though they can still go in the ground now). For more information on Cucumbers, including their relatives and varieties, visit the Cucumber page.

When it comes to backyard horticulture, tomatoes are a classic favorite, with their ease of cultivation, high productive capacity, and delicious flavors. Tomatoes can be grown in almost any situation, as long as they are provided with enough sunlight and water. Although many small-space gardeners may believe that they simply don't have the room for these edible superstars, there are many ways tomatoes can be incorporated into small gardens and even apartment container gardens with ease. If you're a green thumb who is a bit short on space, here's what you need to know about growing tomatoes in pots:

Now that you've got an idea of what tomato varieties to choose and how to plant them, here's what you should know about caring for your plants in this situation:

Fertilizing
Tomatoes grown in the ground do not always need fertilizing, but those grown in containers do greatly benefit from regular feedings through the growing season. Apply a balanced, water-soluble feeding at half strength once every two weeks or so. Tomato plants prefer small, frequent fertilizations over infrequent, heavy feedings.

Pest and Disease Management in Tomato Plants
Whether grown in pots or in the ground, tomato plants do have their fair share of pests and diseases. Some of the more common culprits include Aphids, Hornworms, Whiteflies, Wireworms, Verticillium Wilt, Tobacco Mosaic Virus, Damping Off, and Powdery Mildew. For more information about common Tomato pests and diseases, including how to eradicate them, consult the Tomato page.

Tomatoes are fantastic edible additions to any garden, producing nutritious fruits and providing beauty and interest to both indoor and outdoor spaces. Whether you have a large backyard space or a tiny patio with just one pot, you too can grow your own.

Until Next Time, 
- Kristi

Mulch: the protective blanket of organic material that keeps soil moist, suppresses weed growth, and maintains healthy soil temperatures. Mulches come in a variety of materials and colors, and are available for purchase at garden centers and businesses that sell landscape materials in bulk. Because mulch is so important to soil (and therefore plant) health, it is critical to maintain a thick layer in planting beds throughout the garden in each season. Typically, mulch needs to be replaced once every one to two years, depending on factors like the level of traffic in mulched areas, water runoff, and climate (including wind). The best time to replace mulch is during your yearly application of compost to the soil, which should take place in February before new spring growth emerges for the season. To replace and refresh mulch, follow these general steps:

Walk around your garden, taking a good look at the mulch coverage in your planting beds. If you notice any bare spots, take note of about how large the bald spot is. At the end of your stroll, you should have a good idea of the square footage you'll need to re-cover with a fresh layer. If you don't already know the total square footage covered by mulch in your garden, this is a good time to calculate it. Start by taking approximate measurements of your beds' widths, lengths, and diameters. Check out the measurements below for an example.

Now that you've assessed the situation and taken some necessary measurements, it's time to calculate how much mulch you'll need. Begin by adding up the total square footage of your beds by multiplying their widths by their lengths. You'll need to convert inches to decimals (for example 4 feet 6 inches = 4.5 feet). Then, once you have your total square footage, multiply that integer by the desired depth of mulch in feet. For 1 inch, use the multiplier 0.083. For 2 inches, use the multiplier 0.167. For 3 inches, use the multiplier 0.25. Using the example garden above, this is what this process looks like:

The depth multiplier you'll use depends on how much your mulch has degraded. If you are mulching for the first time, a two or three inch layer of mulch is suggested. For yearly upkeep, one or two inches should suffice.

Now that you've figured out how many cubic feet of mulch you'll need, it's time to find a place to purchase your material. Most garden centers and even some big box stores like Target, Walmart and Costco will sell pre-bagged mulches. Bags are typically either sized in 2 or 3 cubic foot quantities. Regardless of the bag size, you'll need to calculate how many bags you'll need for your space to determine the price you'll pay for material. To do this, divide your calculated cubic footage by the volume of each bag. For example, if the store you visit has mulch in three square foot bags and you've decided to add 2 inches of mulch across the landscape, your equation will look like this:

If a large area of the garden needs to be covered, if you are applying mulch for the first time, or simply if the price is better for the amount of mulch you need, it may be more realistic to purchase your mulch from a bulk supplier. On average, these landscape material suppliers will charge between $25 and $80 per cubic yard of mulch. Most of these places charge by the cubic yard, so your cubic footage will need to be calculated before shopping. There are 27 cubic feet in 1 cubic yard, so the number of cubic feet can either be divided by 27 or multiplied by 0.037037. Using the above example again:

Depending on which type of mulch is purchased, getting this much mulch from a bulk landscape material supplier can run between $50 and $160. Purchasing mulch by the bag from a garden center or other retailer may run between $95 and $150. Although the prices at the bulk seller may be a bit better, the mulch will not be bagged, and therefore will not be as easy to distribute around the yard, and will require a trailer or truck bed to transport. An upside, however is that these places also commonly sell compost, which can be purchased at the same time as mulch to cut down on trips back and forth to the store. A last point about using bulk sellers is that sometimes they will have a minimum purchase amount; to check, simply call ahead. 

If you are applying compost at the same time you are mulching, which is recommended, you'll pull your mulch layer back so that the soil surface is exposed. The compost will then be applied and distributed, and then mulch can be put back on. The old mulch should be mixed with the new before it is added back to the surface. Not all old mulch should be re-used, however. If mulch is diseased or overly moldy, it should be thrown away. Rake mulch to level., and then water it (and the compost) in. And there you have it: a simple way to refresh the health and aesthetic appeal of your garden in a days' work.

Happy Gardening!

I'm glad I have your attention, because I'd like to tell you about something very cool that just happened at the University of Wisconsin at Madison. A team led by scientists at the university has officially produced a cutting-edge way to extract certain nutrients (most importantly, ammonium and potassium) from livestock manure to be used in applications like fertilizer and other chemical products.

Manure itself can be used as-is to fertilize the garden, but it has some drawbacks. First, it is expensive when compared with other commonly used fertilizing products. Adding to the gap in cost is the fact that manure also contains fewer nutrients than synthetic fertilizers, so it must be applied in larger quantities to support plant growth. Second, manure doesn't smell great to begin with and as it decomposes the odor somehow gets even worse. The strong smell can also attract flies and hungry rodents, which are unwelcome visitors in most gardens. Third and finally, although manure is an organic fertilizer, it can be damaging to the environment, releasing ammonia, phosphorus, and potassium into groundwater and ammonia into the air. Airborne ammonia is smelly, and can cause breathing issues in sensitive people. In the ground, nutrient excesses can contaminate local water sources and if they flow into the ocean, can kill fish and cause damaging algae blooms.

The goal for this team was to find a way to extract the useful nutrients from manure that make it such a valuable fertilizer. The new technique was revealed to the scientific world less than a week ago in the journal Nature Sustainability, and already has caught the attention of many gardeners. The procedure described in the study involves directly placing a nickel-based electrode into manure wastewater, which then collects ammonium and potassium from the oxidized organic matter. The electrode is then placed in a device that uses electricity to release the ammonium and potassium from the electrode. The extracted nutrients can be used to create nitrogen or potassium-based fertilizers that are greener and more affordable to transport than manure.

A very cool discovery in and of itself, this breakthrough also has the potential to lower ammonia emissions by 50% and lessen nitrate leaching considerably from livestock farms. And in the long-run, maybe we'll have cheaper, more effective and greener ways to use manure as a fertilizing agent. It just goes to show, the trick to tackling climate change is to electrify everything. Even poop.

​Until next time!

References:
Zapping Manure with Special Electrode Promises an Efficient Method to Produce Fertilizers, Other Chemicals

Earthworms: the hidden workhorses behind fertile soil and beautiful plants. While cruising the interwebs recently, I came across an article about some worms that I'd never heard of before: Japanese Jumping Worms. There are three species currently recognized that share this common name: Amynthas agrestis, Amynthas tokioensis, and Metophire hilgendorfi.  They are also called Crazy Snake Worms, Wood Eels, Alabama Jumpers, and Jersey Wrigglers. These worms are considered to be highly invasive; they can reproduce without mating, and their eggs are very difficult to see in soil. Their presence is not to be taken lightly, however. They are more voracious eaters than their European counterparts, decimating the layer of decomposing material that is necessary to support plant and animal life. They also feed on plant roots, which can kill garden and nursery plants.

Although these worms are relatively new to California, they have been found in pots and in the ground in the northern regions of the state, and will most likely find their way down to the Bay Area given some time. These invasive worms are worrying environmental scientists, because they pose a threat to forests and can harm biodiversity in gardens, nurseries, and parks. Below are some common questions about these wiggly pests:

How do I tell the difference between Japanese Jumping Worms and Nightcrawlers?
This is a great question, as these two worms look pretty similar. Nightcrawlers are lighter in color, and have a reddish-pink band (called a clitellum) that sits like a raised saddle on their bodies. The clitellum on jumping worms is lighter in color (whitish), surrounds their bodies completely, is flush with the rest of the body, and their bodies are darker in color. Reference the photos below for a visual comparison of these two worms:

These worms also differ in their habits. When picked up, earthworms will attempt to get back to the ground, but are slow-moving. Japanese Jumping Worms, on the other hand, act almost like snakes do, writhing quickly and making 'jumping' movements.

Will I be able to tell if there are Jumping Worms in my garden?
Jumping Worms can be found in the surface soil or just below - higher in the soil profile than Nightcrawlers. They mass together, and because they reproduce so quickly and in such great numbers, you'll be able to identify them visually if you come across a colony. A neat trick to perform is to pour mustard water (mix a gallon of water with 1/3 cup of ground yellow mustard and shake) over your garden soil in a few areas. The worms will come to the surface, and you can collect them and see if they are indeed Jumping Worms. You'll also be able to witness their behavior and differentiate it from that of regular earthworms. These worms are most active during the summertime, in mid-June these worms will be entering their first season of maturity. This is when you'll be most likely to notice their presence. Another sign that these pests may have invaded your space is that the soil texture will be similar to coffee grounds.

​How do I get rid of these pests?
​If you find Jumping Worms in your soil, don't panic. Your first step is going to be to educate yourself about these critters, and let others around you know that you've located some in your garden. Next, you may want to dig up the colony of worms and the surrounding soil to remove both the worms themselves and their eggs. Place the removed worms and soil in a black plastic bag and leave it out in the sun. This will kill both adult and cocooned worms. You can toss the bag in the trash afterwards. Make sure to clean off any tools and gear you use when working in your garden frequently and thoroughly, as the tiny eggs can be spread on trowels, shovels, shears, and even gardening shoes and clothing. A final step in ridding your space of Jumping Worms is to heat moistened soil to a temperature of 104 degrees Fahrenheit. This will kill any cocoons in the soil, wiping out the next generation of worms. This task can be accomplished by spreading clear polyethylene over the area and allowing the sun to act as a heat source. Leave the plastic out for 2-3 weeks; in this time the soil should reach the target temperature.

What are some best practices to ensure that I don't inadvertently bring these worms into my garden?

1. When purchasing dirt or compost, ensure that it has been heated to a temperature of at least 130 degrees Fahrenheit for at least three days. This is a preventative measure to stop the spread of many garden pests that many reputable producers will perform. 
2. Clean your garden tools and gear regularly to stop the spread of these worms in your own garden.
3. Only bring potted plants in to your garden that have come from reputable nurseries. Sharing plants with other home gardeners can be risky, as most home gardeners do not go to the same lengths to ensure their product is pest-free.
4. If you have a gardening service taking care of your property, talk to them to see what their practices are for cleaning their equipment and gear. If you are not satisfied, have a collection of tools and other gear available for them to use on your property that you are responsible for cleaning and maintaining.
5. Contact the California Department of Fish and Wildlife to report your sighting. The required documentation and further instructions can be found on this webpage:

The invasive Jumping Worms are in California now, and are working their way down the state. Keep an eye out for these destructive garden critters, remove them from your soil and destroy them, and report your sighting(s). If we garden responsibly, we may just be able to slow the spread of these pests (and others) in our state. As always, thanks for reading! See the references section below for more information on these worms.

Until next time!

​Kristi.

Many people will tell you that if you  need a fast-growing, lush-foliaged privacy shrub with beautiful blooms, you should look no further than Oleander. These plants, commonly called 'deadly beauties', are popular landscaping plants native to Europe and Asia. They can form rounded shrubs or small trees if pruned correctly, and are members of the Dogbane (Apocynaceae) family, making them relatives of Milkweed, Amsonia, Hoya, Mandevilla, Plumeria, and Vinca (Periwinkle). They grow to be quite large, up to 20 feet tall and 6-10 feet wide, and are adaptable to many different soil and climate conditions. Oleander shrubs can handle browsing from deer, costal salt spray and salty irrigation water, heat, drought, high winds, air pollution, and poor soil. They are urban landscape superstars in this way.

Oleander plants, though not native to North America, have a long history here. The first Oleanders to be put in the ground were planted in 1841 in Galveston, Texas. They flourished even in the area's humidity, salty air, and alkaline soils. In the years that followed, so many plants were installed in the area that Galveston was known worldwide as 'The Oleander City'. The use of Oleanders to fill spaces typically devoid of all plant life caught on, and they quickly spread across the United States, used in home gardens as well as public spaces. In California alone, there are estimated to be around 25 million Oleander plants along highways and roadsides.

Although these landscape icons seem to be the ideal plants for almost any situation, there are a few factors to consider, including their toxicity. Oleander plants contain the toxins Oleandrin and Oleandrigenin, which are cardiac glycosides. If humans or animals ingest any part of the plant, they are met with a slew of side effects, such as weakness, diarrhea, nausea, vomiting, headache, stomach pain, and eventually death. These side effects are well-known in horticultural circles today, informed by historical accounts of their use in traditional medicine and tragedies that have occurred from uninformed use of plant parts in cooking. In Ancient Babylon, physicians used a combination of licorice and oleander to cure hangovers, and in the Middle East, the plants were used as a cancer treatment. Over the years, these plants have been cultivated for their use in relieving symptoms of ringworm, malaria, leprosy, indigestion, alcoholism, heart failure, venereal disease, and fever. It has also been used to trigger miscarriage. Sadly, it is a common drug used for suicide, mainly in the Middle East, by young children forced into marriages to much older men.

Despite the toxic drawbacks of these plants, they are still commonly planted in many situations, mainly as landscape ornamentals. They are a plant-it and forget-about-it genus of plants, typically living for about 20 years before needing to be replaced. They do well even when neglected, and can form a nice evergreen privacy hedge that flowers continuously throughout the year. They can handle hard prunings, able to regenerate even if cut back to just a few feet tall. For more information on Oleander (Nerium) plants, their various forms, and cultivation information, visit the Nerium page on this website:

Although these plants are fantastic for gardeners who prefer low-maintenance landscaping, their toxic qualities as well as their status as non-native plants may sway some horticulturalists away from their use. Thankfully, there are many alternatives to Oleander plants that can do just as well in the garden.

Whether you're a fan of Nerium shrubs or they rub you the wrong way (sometimes literally, as they can also cause contact dermatitis), these shrubs seem to be here to stay. Do you have any experience with these shrubs? Make sure to share in the comments below.

Until Next Time!

Resources and References:

If you have stone fruit trees, you're going to want to pay close attention to this post. Plum Bud Gall Mite has been discovered in Santa Clara County. For those of you unfamiliar with this pest, here's the low-down:

• They are very small (microscopically small). Typically, they are 0.15mm long or less, and are very difficult to see without a magnifying glass. 
• Because of their size, they are difficult to identify before they have started to cause damage to your trees. 
• They are primarily found in the Middle East and Europe. 
• They feed predominately on Almond, Apricot, Peach and Plum trees. 
• The injury they cause to trees can vary, depending on how bad the infestation is and the health of the tree prior to their arrival. They have led to weakened trees, decreased fruit yield, and death. Some trees also recover, and other trees are resistant to this particular mite. ​

You also have a few options available for getting rid of these mites. To learn more, consult the link below:
University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources

You can also check out this Plum Bud Gall Mite fact sheet: 

I have a morning routine that includes making the bed, drinking my coffee, feeding my pets, and then walking around the yard and looking at all of my plants. As many of you know, I'm a big fan of gardening. I was just starting my walk around the yard this morning when I noticed scale on my maple tree! For those of you who aren't familiar with scale, here's what they look like (the black-and-white bumps on the branch): 

Overall, it wasn't a great way to start my morning. I love my maple tree; it's the only tree still standing on my property from when we purchased it (the other two mature trees died during the drought a few years ago). The bottom line is that I will not lose this tree. Consider this post a declaration of war on scale. And it's going to be a messy one. 

Scale is, although it may not look like it, an insect. When they are young, they are mobile. They find a tree to infest, and then settle down and create little 'scales' (so named because someone thought they looked like individual scales on a fish). The immobile scales are female; they will slowly become concave over time as their insides fill with eggs. They turn brown and die just before the eggs hatch, at which point tiny insects will migrate up the tree and to neighboring plants to start the cycle again. 

Unfortunately, these little buggers are all over my tree, so if I don't create a treatment plan soon, they could potentially do a lot of damage. They feed on the sap in a tree, and create something called 'honeydew' as a byproduct; ants feed on this honeydew. This should have been my first clue: a fast-moving trail of excited-looking ants moving up the tree trunk. I blew it off as ants being ants. Little did I know, they were alerting me to a potential problem! 

Scale can eventually kill their host tree. The honeydew they produce attracts mold, which can cover the tree branches and leaves and create photosynthesizing problems. The now injured tree is susceptible to other issues and can die as a result. ​

After some online research, I discovered that the specific type of scale I have is Calico Scale, or Eulecanium cerasorum. I broke open one of the scales, as well, so you all can see the eggs growing inside:

Resources:
The Tree Geek
UCANR Master Gardener

You know the drill. Every year you spend wintertime dreaming of brightly colored flowers and leaves on those naked trees in your yard, and when you start to see the first few buds beginning to emerge, you start thinking about your yard and how this year will be the year. Your yard will be the envy of all your neighbors. You will host garden parties straight out of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. And most importantly, you'll have a beautiful place to relax away from the hustle bustle of life. Unfortunately, creating this reality is more difficult and more time-consuming than you plan for, and the final result falls short of your goal. So how can you do it better this year? Hopefully you can glean some insights from this post.

In following these steps and investing the time and energy necessary, you can transform your yard into a colorful, living work of art! So here we go:

Next, you're going to want to tend to your lawn. Over the winter, it may have gotten waterlogged and the dirt may have become compacted. A great tool to have on hand is an aerator, or you can hire someone to aerate your lawn for you. Aerating your lawn helps to make the soil less compacted, allows water and nutrients to reach deeper, and is especially helpful in high-traffic areas. It is a must if you want a lush, deep green lawn in the spring and summer months. To aerate your lawn, first moisten the soil, either by running your sprinklers for a few minutes or by going over it with a hose. Let the water seep into the soil, and then start aerating. After you've finished, you can add some fertilizer, weed and feed, or even more grass seeds to fill in bare spots. Don't overlook caring for your lawn! A great lawn can really compliment the rest of your garden.

Your next step should be to walk around your yard with your garden shears, moving systematically so as not to miss anything. Identify branches, flowers, and leaves/grasses that have died off, and remove them from the plant. This will encourage new growth. If you have grasses, they can usually be cut all the way back to the ground at this time, and will pop up in the spring, rejuvenated and strong. Removing dead and diseased plant matter from your yard will immediately improve the way it looks, as well as encourage your plants to put on new growth faster!

Finally, the fun part! Look at your yard, and figure out what projects you'd like to tackle this year. Take walks around your neighborhood and get inspiration for the types of plants you'd like to add. Whether you have just a strip to redo, or a whole 500 square feet, you can work towards making your yard just a little more picturesque. For example, my big project this year includes redoing the entire back half of my property! Start getting excited for spring, but remember, it's still early, and there may still be a few frosts coming. Putting in new plants should be put off until after the last frost of the season. And as always, plan before you plant! Make sure to choose the correct plants for your soil type, the area of your yard, and the temperature range of your microclimate.

Starting with these few tasks in your garden can give you a great head start in creating the yard of your dreams this spring and summer!

One thing you need to know about me is that I absolutely love gardening. My first apartment, although it was small, had a patio with a strip of dirt three feet wide and about twelve feet long. There were already two trees planted in the strip, and the first thing I did after I moved in was to plant ferns and put down some blue rock. It made such a difference, and although the apartment wasn't in a great area and there was street traffic and it leaked, etc. etc., I loved it because I had my little garden. Since then, I have moved into a house and now have a big yard to play with.

My love of gardening drew me to Filoli Gardens time and time again, and when I saw that there was a class offered called 'A Year In The Garden' I jumped at the opportunity. My mom loves to garden as well (she has an even bigger yard than I do) so we signed up together. I ended up loving the class and learned a lot about the biology of the garden, how plants really grow, why some plants die for no apparent reason, and so many other great lessons. After the class ended, I continued to read and do my own research, adding plants to my yard and even consulting with friends and family if they had gardening questions.

I've taken the next step and created my own gardening 'course'! It's very loosely based on the topics covered in my Filoli class, but with a lot more information, supplemental videos and diagrams, and my own little touches throughout. I have never made it public; I was playing with the idea of possibly hosting my own gardening class out of my backyard, but this course is well-adapted for long-distance and internet users, so I've now added it to this website! You can check out the course here:

If you've got a green thumb as well, it's worth checking out. And if you're a gardening novice and would like to improve your plants' livelihood, it's a must! It can be done at any pace, so feel free to browse through the topics and choose the ones you like. I hope you all enjoy it.