Brodiaea

( broh - dee - EYE - ah )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of herbaceous perennial flowering plants grow from corms, and are Pacific Coast natives that need full sun and no formal irrigation. These plants are commonly called Cluster Lilies due to their proclivity for forming spreading colonies over time. Flowers bloom in spring and early summertime and are funnel shaped and purple to pink. There are few leaves on these plants, and after flowering they will die back to the ground. Plant Cluster Lily in rock gardens, containers, drought-tolerant landscapes, or to add interest to outer, non-irrigated areas of the landscape.

Brodiaea Species and Varietals

The genus Brodiaea is a member of the plant family Asparagaceae and includes 17 distinct species. The genus is named for James Brodie, a Scottish politician and botanist. Brodiaea growing zones vary depending on the species. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Brodiaea appendiculata (Appendage Brodiaea, Appendage Cluster-Lily, Hoover's Brodiaea)
Native to California, this species prefers to grow in the mountain foothills in the northern areas of the state. These are not commonly seen flowers, and produce purple blooms with six rays. Flowers appear from April through May. These flowers do well in USDA hardiness zones 8b-10a.

Brodiaea californica (California Brodiaea, California Cluster-Lily)
These perennials grow from bulb and are native to California and Oregon, growing well outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 6-9. This is the largest species in the genus, and produces flowers that range in color from purple to white to light pink. Blossoms occur in late spring through early summertime.

Brodiaea coronaria (Brodiaea grandiflora) (Harvest Brodiaea, Crown Brodiaea)
This species grows best in USDA hardiness zones 6-10 or Sunset growing zones 4-9 and 14-24, and produces clusters of dark blue-purple flowers that are about an inch long. Stems grow to 6-10 inches tall. These plants are native to British Colombia down the West Coast of the United States to Northern California where they prefer to grow in grasslands and mountainous areas. There is a rare sub-species, Broiaea coronaria rosea, that produces pink flowers and is endemic to Tehama, Glenn, and Lake counties in northwestern California.

Brodiaea elegans (Harvest Brodiaea, Elegant Cluster Lily, Elegant Brodiaea)
This species of Brodiaea grows best in zones 2-9 and 14-24, reaches up to 16 inches tall when mature. These plants are native to California and Oregon, and produce a stout inflorescence that tops out at 20 inches tall. This is one of the later-blooming wildflowers of northern California, commonly seen flowering in May.

Brodiaea filifoilia (Threadleaf Brodiaea, Thread-Leaved Broadiaea, Threadleaf Cluster Lily)
This species is endemic to southern California, and grows from bulb. It is a federally endangered species, and has trouble reproducing with pollen from genetically related individuals. Bright purple flowers bloom in spring to summer. Individual plants can reach up to between 8 and 16 inches tall when mature and in bloom.

Brodiaea insignis (Kaweah Brodiaea, Kaweah Brodiaea)
This species is endemic to the Sierra Foothills in Tulare County, California. These are endangered plants, and produces purple to pinkish flowers on stems 10 inches tall. Kaweah Brodiaea grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7a-10b.

Brodiaea jolonensis (Chaparral Brodiaea, Mesa Brodiaea, Chaparral Cluster-Lily)
These perennial bulbs are native to the coast and coastal mountain ranges of southern California and northern Baja California, Mexico. Flowers are bluish-purple. Individual plants can reach up to 6 inches tall. Mesa Brodiaea grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7a-10a.

Brodiaea kinkiensis (San Clemente Island Brodiaea)
Endemic to San Clemente Island (in the Channel Islands off the coast of California), this species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7a-10b. It is a perennial that grows from bulb and produces purple flowers with dark purple stripes. Mature plants reach up to between 1 and 12 inches tall and just as wide when in bloom.

Brodiaea minor (Dwarf Brodiaea, Vernalpool Brodiaea, Sierra Brodiaea, Lesser Brodiaea, Small Brodiaea)
This flower grows best in USDA hardiness zones 6-10 or Sunset zones 7-9, 14-17 and 19-24 and blooms in dark blue atop 3-4 inch tall stems. These bulbs are endemic to central California where they grow in grassland valley areas adjacent to the Sierra Nevada Foothills.

Brodiaea orcuttii (Orcutt's Brodiaea)
These plants grow from corm and are native to San Diego County in southern California. Flowers are red-purple to blue and bloom in April through July in their native range. This is the only species of Brodiaea that lacks staminodes. Best in USDA hardiness zones 8a-10b.

Brodiaea pallida (Chinese Camp Brodiaea)
These plants are native to the area between Tuolumne and Calaveras counties in California and grow well in USDA hardiness zones 6-9; they are hardy down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. Flowers are pale purple to whitish in this species, and bloom from late May through early June.

Brodiaea santarosae (Santa Rosa Brodiaea, Santa Rosa Basalt Brodiaea)
There are only five known populations of this endangered California native flower in the area of Orange, Riverside, and San Diego counties in southern California. It was first described as a new species in 2007, making it a relatively recent discovery. These plants have bright purple flowers which bloom in spring and early summertime.

Brodiaea terrestris (Dwarf Brodiaea, Kern Brodiaea)
This species, native to Oregon, California, and Baja California, produces low-growing white and purple flowers in spring and summertime. There are two subspecies, Brodiaea terrestris kernensis (Kern Brodiaea) and Brodiaea terrestris terrestris (Dwarf Brodiaea). These flowers grow well in USDA hardiness zones 8a-10b.

Caring for Brodiaea

These beautiful flowers can be grown either in the ground or in containers, and are best when cultivated in an area with warm, dry summers and well-draining soils. Amend your planting area or potted soil mix with organic matter to improve drainage and fertility. They prefer to be planted in full sun, so choose an area in your yard or on your patio that gets this exposure, and plant in the middle of spring. They are best when installed massed together in the landscape. In your garden, plant corms a foot apart with the pointed tip sitting just below the surface of the soil. In containers, plant corms about 7-8 inches apart with their pointed tips up just at the soil surface. In either the ground or in containers, water thoroughly after planting, and ensure that adequate drainage is occurring. After planting, mulch around the area with organic mulching material to help retain soil moisture and suppress weed growth. Keep mulch away from any plant stems, as this can encourage an environment for root rot issues to take hold. These are very long-lived plants and will continue to bloom year after year if given the correct care. Normally, they do not need much supplemental water if they receive adequate rainfall, though you can provide about an inch of water per week during their growing and blooming periods, which is normally in spring, summer and early fall.

Fertilize each year with an application of organic compost around the planting area. Remove mulch before applying, and then work compost into the soil gently, replacing mulch afterwards. The only ongoing care they really require is to be divided every few years when flowering begins to suffer due to overcrowding; this is especially important if growing in containers. The bulbs otherwise do not like to be disturbed, and they may not flower for a bit after division. For instructions on how to divide these plants, see the Propagation section below. Foliage that has begun to fade can be cut back to ground level; this usually happens in summertime before flowering stalks appear. Once flowers have faded, the stems can also be cut back to the ground. Withhold water at this point. During winter, if your area gets cold, wet winters, dig up bulbs and store them in vermiculite or peat moss in a cool (around 55 degrees Fahrenheit), dark, dry place. In areas where the bulbs can stay in place over winter, provide mulch over the area, and check frequently for good drainage during rainy periods.

Propagation

Brodiaea can be propagated either by dividing existing plants or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Cluster Lilies, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Brodiaea by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. The seed pods on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
In either late winter or early springtime, get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-4 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Propagating Brodiaea by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil, compost and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance, especially if they are grown in a constricted space. To propagate by division, follow these steps:

Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the corm(s). Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
Start to tease apart the roots with your fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one full round corm.
Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divided corms about an inch under the soil surface with the growing tip pointing upwards and water thoroughly.
Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout in the next growing season.