Camellia

( kah - MEE - lee - uh )

At-A-Glance Information

Camellia shrubs are typically loaded with white, pink, or red flowers (or a combination of these colors) during the cooler months of the year, making them a great centerpiece to consider for the garden in wintertime. These shrubs love shady areas, and can grow well in pots as well. Most species and varieties have unscented flowers. Grow these shrubs as privacy screens, as specimens, in containers on patios, or simply as color in mixed beds and borders.

Camellia Species and Varietals

The genus Camellia is a member of the plant family Theaceae and includes over 220 species. The genus is named for botanist Georg Joseph Kamel, who worked in the Philippines and described one of its earliest identified species. Camellia shrubs grow best in USDA hardiness zones 7-10 or Sunset growing zones 4-9, 12, and 14-24. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map. To narrow down the search for the perfect Camellia for your yard, first consider choosing between the various flower forms:

Single

Semidouble

Peony

Anemone

Formal Double

Camellia chrysantha (Golden Camellia, Yellow Camellia, Kinkacha)
This species of Camellia can grow vigorously to a height of between 6 and 16 feet and a width of between 10 and 12 feet when mature. These shrubs have an open habit with glossy leaves and 2 to 2.5-inch yellow-golden flowers.

Camellia cuspidata (Cuspidate Camellia)
This species is native to western areas of China. It forms an evergreen shrub or small multitrunked tree to just under 10 feet tall at maturity. Leaves are glossy dark green and leathery and flowers are pure white, blooming between the months of December and April.

Camellia granthamiana (Grantham's Camellia, Poached Egg Camellia, Da Bao Shan Cha, Ge Liang Hong Cha)
This species of Camellia is considered rare. It flowers in the fall, showing its 'rabbit ear' petals arranged around a center of light yellow stamens. This varietal needs excellent drainage to grow to its full potential. These shrubs can reach up to 10-20 feet tall and 10-15 feet wide at maturity.

Camellia hiemalis (Winter Camellia, Kanjiro Camellia)
This species of Camellia blooms for a longer period than others, and also has the added benefit of heavier-textured flowers. Varietals include 'Chansonette' (pictured), a vigorous grower which gets to about 6 feet tall and 8 feet wide, and boasts large, bright-pink, formal double flowers.

Camellia japonica (Camellia rusticana) (Japanese Camellia, Common Camellia, Snow Camellia)
This species grows best in USDA hardiness zones 7-9 or Sunset growing zones 4-9, 12, 14-24, and H1. It can grow to be about 6 to 12 feet tall and just as wide. There are many varieties of this species, and they vary considerably in size, shape, color and habit. Below is a listing of a few of the most popular varietals.

'Alba Pena'
Early bloomer with stark white double blooms.

'Adolphe Adusson'
With large, dark red semi-double flowers, sometimes heavily variegated with white.

'April Dawn'
White flowers that have pink markings.

'April Remembered'
This varietal blooms from early to late season, with blush-colored semi-double flowers.

'Betty Sheffield Blush'
Large, semi-double flowers in rich pink with a white edge.

'Black Tie'
Dark red formal double bloom. Dense upright growth.

'Carter's Sunburst'
Early to late bloomer, semi-double, peony form, and formal double blooms. Petals are dark pink to light pink.

'Cinnamon Candy'
White flowers with pinkish flushing in outer petals.

'Crimson Candles'
Crimson colored flowers with yellow centers.

'Daikagura'
Large, rosey-pink flowers that are blotched with white.

'Debutante'
Early to mid- season bloomer with light-pink peony-form flowers.

'Elegans'
Large, pink flowers that often have white streaks on them.

'Glen 40' ('Coquettii')
Mid- to late-season bloomer has large, deep red formal double flowers. Growth is compact and upright. Good for containers; very hardy.

'Grace Albritton'
White, pink, or red variably colored flowers with a formal double form.

'Herme' ('Jordan's Pride')
Mid-season with medium-large, pink semi-double flowers irregularly bordered in white and streaked pink.

'Higo Ohkan'
Medium-sized white flowers with rosey-red border. Single form.

'Jack's'

'Kramer's Supreme'
Very large, brilliant red flowers with a full peony form.

'Lady Clare'
With large, deep pink flowers.

'Lady Laura'
Medium to large pink variegated rose-style flowers. Double to formal double.

'Mathotiana Alba'
Pure white, formal double blooms.

'Morning Glow'
Medium sized white flowers that are formal double form.

'Nuccio's Gem'
Medium to large pure white formal double flowers.

'Nuccio's Pearl'
This midseason bloomer has medium sized, full formal double blooms that are mostly white with deep pink outer petals.

'Otome'
Light, shell-pink flowers on a vigorously growing shrub.

'R.L. Wheeler'
Large rose-pink semi double flowers.

'Swan Lake'
This variety has very large, beautiful white flowers with formal double to peony form. It blooms midseason to late season and has an upright, vigorous growth.

'White by the Gate'
Medium, pure white formal double flowers and dark green foliage.

Camellia lutchuensis (Lutchuensis Camellia)
This shrub can grow to be about 10 feet tall and 12 feet wide, and has tiny leaves and profuse tiny white flowers. This varietal has a very pleasant, strong fragrance. Can be trained as an espalier or small tree easily as it has long, bendable branches. The species is native to southeastern China, Taiwan, and the Ryukyu Islands of Japan.

Camellia oleifera (Oil-Seed Camellia, Tea Oil Camellia)
This species of Camellia appears quite similar in looks to Camelia sasanqua, though it has larger leaves. Flowers are white and fragrant, blooming in mid to late fall. Can be used as a shrub or small tree in the landscape, reaching up to 20 feet tall when mature. The species is native to China, and is cultivated extensively there for its seeds, which are pressed to yield Tea Seed Oil.

Camellia reticulata (Yennan Camellia, Netvein Camellia, To-Tsubaki)
This species has some of the most showy, vibrant, memorable flowers, though the plants themselves can be characterized as lanky and ungraceful. Habits vary, but many start out as gaunt and open shrubs that eventually mature into very large plants. Some can reach 35 to 50 feet tall. Leaves are usually dull green and leathery. Intolerant of heavy pruning; do not force into unnatural forms. Cultivars of this species are listed below:

'Mandalay Queen'

'Buddha'

'Mouchang'

Camellia rosiflora (Rose Camellia, Rose-Flowered Camellia)
This species is native to southern areas of China, and is thought to be extinct in the wild in its native range. It forms a shrub with drooping or cascading branches and green, leathery leaves. At maturity, individual shrubs reach up to 5-8 feet tall; this species is recommended as a hedge plant. Cultivar 'Roseaflora Cascade' has an especially weeping form with pastel pink single blooms.

Camellia saluenensis (Salween Camellia)
A large, 10 to 15 foot tall shrub with dense green leathery foliage. Flowers pop in early spring and are bell-shaped and small, varying in color from white to a fairly deep pink. This species is a parent to popular hybrids 'Cornish Snow', and 'Inspiration'.

Camellia sasanqua (Sasanqua Camellia, Sazanka, Plum-Flowered Tea)
This species produces shrubs with large leaves that are commonly used for many different purposes including as groundcovers, espaliers, informal hedges, screening and as container plants. Heavy producers of flowers in autumn and early winter, though blooms are short-lived and rather 'flimsy'. Some cultivars produce fragrant blooms. Most varietals can tolerate sun and actually seem to like wintertime sunshine. Some can also thrive in year-round sun if they are rooted in the right soil and receive regular waterings. Cultivars listed below.

'Apple Blossom'

'Bonanza'

'Jean May'

'Mine-No-Yuki'
('White Doves')

'Setsugekka'

'Yuletide'

Camellia sinensis (Thea sinensis) (Tea Plant, Tea Tree, Tea Shrub)
This species typically grows as a dense, rounded shrub up to 15 feet tall and just as wide at maturity. Leaves are leathery, dark green and up to five inches long. Fragrant, white flowers appear in the fall. This bush takes well to pruning activities, and can be trimmed to be a hedge. The leaves, stems, and leaf buds are all used to produce tea.

Hybrid Camellias

These varietals are crosses between two or more species. Most have medium-sized flowers.

'Coral Delight'

'Donation'

'Frank Houser'

'Taylor's Perfection'

'Yume'

'High Fragrance'

'Freedom Bell'

'Fairy Blush'

Caring for camellia

Camellias are typically purchased as starts from reputable nurseries, but can also be purchased as seed. Camellias grown from seed will take about 4-7 years to reach their mature size. Camellia plants should be spaced about 4 feet apart for a dense hedge, or 5-6 feet apart for best coverage and airflow. Plant Camellias in a space that receives full sun to partial shade; ideally, they appreciate between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day for the best blooms when mature. Protect from harsh sun when shrubs are young or when cultivating in a particularly warm climate. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5 (slightly acidic). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants perform well in consistently moist soils. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. The more sun a Camellia gets, the more water it will need to perform well.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season, and deadhead spent flowers to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Dead or weak wood can be pruned away, and plants should be thinned out when growth becomes to dense for its natural habit. Make pruning cuts just above scars right after a bloom; doing this should force blooms in 3-4 dormant surrounding buds. Camellias should be allowed to maintain their natural habit, they don't usually do well if forced into an unnatural shape. For varieties that can be pruned into small trees (see species growing information in descriptions above), begin shaping when plants are young, removing lower branches and choosing a main trunk or trunks to develop. Collect fallen Camellia flowers from under shrubs regularly to discourage fungal diseases. Camellia shrubs and small trees are considered long-lived perennials, and are able to persist for upwards of 100 years in the garden.

Caring for Camellia in Containers
Camellia shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Gallon size plants should be in 14 inch wide planters and 5 gallon plants should be in 16-18 inch containers. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with about 50% organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Camellia shrubs grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Propagation

Camellias can be propagated in a few ways: from seed, from a cutting, from volunteer plants, through grafting, and through layering or air layering. The type of propagation you choose will depend on the type of plant you're looking to get out of the process. We'll go over the three easiest ways to propagate your camellia here: from seed, from cutting and through volunteer plants.

Propagating Camellia by Volunteer
When camellias are done flowering, and if they have been fertilized, their seeds will drop to the ground and create another plant without any added effort. Volunteers will not necessarily exactly resemble the parent plant, as genetic variation exists in seeds. These new plants can be transplanted and grown into mature plants within three years. For this option, you'll need a shovel (or a fork, depending on how large your plant is), a container that is about twice the size of the existing root system, perlite or coarse silica sand, garden shears, and a water source. Here's how to proceed:

Dig up your volunteer camellia. This should be done carefully, as new plants have very deep roots, called 'taproots'. If you're going to transplant into a new container, pick one that is about twice the size of the root system that already exists. Fill the container with a planting medium mix of 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite or coarse silica sand. It's also a good idea to include some of the topsoil that the plant was in originally, to allow it to pull the same nutrients as it was in its first home.
Snip the end of the taproot with clean garden shears. This will encourage the formation of more complex root systems. However, if you are planning on transplanting your volunteer into the ground, skip this step. Then, plant your camellia! The hole should be twice the width and about the same depth as the root system at the in-ground site. Backfill lightly and pressing the soil down gently with your hands. Roots should be kept near ground level.
Water your plant but do not drown it. If your plant will remain in a container, choose a spot that gets indirect sunlight or partial shade. Be sure that excess water can drain off, especially in in-ground plantings.

Propagating Camellia by Seed
Again, camellias that are grown by seed will not necessarily match the parent plant that they come from. If you'd like an identical plant, it would be best to choose a different propagation method. To propagate a camellia by seed, you'll need

In late winter, green seed pods form on Camellia shrubs. They'll be about the size of a grape, and may darken in color and split open exposing the seeds inside. The seeds are dark brown or black in color. Don't force the seed pods open before they naturally split, as the seeds are not ready and will not be able to be used for propagation. After they have begun to split, break or cut off some of the pod to free the seeds. Make shallow incisions in the seed or rub it with sandpaper to scarify. Drop the seed in warm water for 12 hours before sowing.
Locate the 'eye' of the seed. This will look like a small impression on one end and it is where the root will emerge. You will plant the seed with this eye facing downwards. Planting medium should be one part potting soil and one part coarse silica sand or perlite. The seed should be planted half an inch deep in this soil and be watered well. Keep the soil slightly damp while waiting for germination. Place the pot in a warm area and wait for seedlings to emerge.
After seedlings emerge, ensure that they are getting about 8-10 hours of sunlight each day, and keep the soil moist but not wet. After they have sprouted their first sets of true leaves (the second set of leaves up the stem after the cotyledons), transplant them into a larger pot. After this step, follow steps 1-3 for transplanting a volunteer Camellia.

Propagating Camellia by Cutting
A third common way of propagating camellia is by cutting. This is the fastest way to propagate a camellia, and should be done in early spring, when new growth starts to appear on the parent plant. You will need a 4-6 inch deep container, potting soil, perlite or coarse silica sand, clean, sharp garden shears, rooting hormone powder, a water mister, a greenhouse or plastic bag and rubber band, and about four 8-10 inch containers. To try it yourself, follow the instructions below:

You'll start this propagation method by preparing a container of soil, using 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite or coarse silica sand. You can either prepare one container to house a few cuttings (provided they are two inches apart). The container you use should be about 4-6 inches deep to leave space for roots to develop.
Cut a branch off of the parent plant using a clean pair of shears. This branch should contain a few leaf 'nodes' (which you can learn how to identify in module 1). It should be about 16 inches long, to allow for more chances of a successful propagation. Separate the side branches of the main branch by cutting them between the main branch and the first leaf node. You'll end up with about four cuttings of approximately 4 inches each. Each cutting should have a few leaves.
Remove the lower leaves from each cutting so that only the top two remain. Then, dip the cut end of the branch into rooting hormone powder and push the cutting into the prepared pot of planting medium. It should go down about 2-3 inches. Repeat with the rest of the cuttings, and ensure that they are spaced about 2 inches apart in the growing container. There is no need to pack down the soil; looser soil is better for rooting. Mist with water to dampen.
Place the cutting in either a greenhouse, or put a large plastic bag over the top and secure with a rubber band around the top of the container. Keep in a warm, humid place. Then, watch your cuttings develop. It will take about 2-3 months for roots to develop. Keep a close eye on your cuttings during this time. They should be kept moist, not wet. Buds will begin to form once roots do, so this will be your first visual sign of root growth.
Not all of your cuttings may take root, but once some of them do, you can separate the cuttings into their own separate 8-10 inch containers. When these are beginning to fill with the root system of this new plant, it can then be transplanted to its final location. If you will be putting it into a container, it is a good practice to cut the end of the taproot to encourage a different root system to form.