Cotoneaster

( kah - TONE - ee - ass - ter )

At-A-Glance Information

Cotoneaster is a genus of flowering plants in the rose family, comprised of evergreen, semi-evergreen, and deciduous shrubs. These plants generally take full sun, need little to moderate amounts of water, and attract birds. Although they are grown intentionally in gardens and planned landscapes, they are also known to be invasive. Use Cotoneaster shrubs as groundcover, in mixed beds and borders, to line pathways, or as specimen plants. Take care when planting these shrubs and trees in the landscape, as plant parts can be mildly to moderately poisonous to humans and pets if ingested.

Cotoneaster Species and Varietals

The genus Cotoneaster includes between 70 and 300 species, subspecies, and varieties. They are members of the Rose family (Rosaceae) and are relatives of Pyracantha and Photinia. The best growing zones for Cotoneaster vary depending on the species. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Cotoneaster apiculatus (Cranberry Cotoneaster)
This species is deciduous, and does best in cold-winter climates. It grows best in USDA hardiness zones 4-7 and Sunset growing zones A3 and 2-24. This shrub grows densely, up to three feet tall and six feet wide at maturity. Leaves are round and small and turn a reddish color in autumn. Fruits grow in clusters and are the size of large cranberries. Varieties include 'Tom Thumb' (pictured). This species is invasive in California and regions in the UK and Europe.

Cotoneaster congestus (Pyrenees Cotoneaster, Congested Cotoneaster, Crowded-Leaf Cotoneaster)
This is an evergreen variety, and grows in USDA hardiness zones 5a-8b or Sunset growing zones 3b-24. This variety grows slowly and to about three feet tall and just as wide. Branches are dense and downward-curving, with small dark green leaves. Fruit is bright red, and small. Best to be used in containers and rock gardens. This species is considered invasive in California, Oregon, New Zealand, the UK and regions of Europe.

Cotoneaster dammeri
This evergreen roots along the ground, reaching a height of eight inches and a width of around 10 feet. Leaves are bright green and glossy, and the fruit is bright red. Popular varietals include 'Coral Beauty', 'Lowfast' (pictured), 'Strieb's Findling', and 'Skogsholmen'.

Cotoneaster divaricatus (Spreading Cotoneaster, Quince-Leaved Medlar, Rose Box)
This species is native to central and western China, performing best in USDA hardiness zones 4-8 or Sunset growing zones 1-24, and is deciduous. Reaches 6 feet tall and wide at maturity. Dark green leaves turn orange in the fall are closely set on stiff branches, with egg-shaped bright red fruits. This species does well as an informal hedge, screening plant, or as a bank planting for erosion control. This species is considered invasive in the Bay Area, California as well as Europe and Southern Australia.

Cotoneaster glaucophyllus (Bright Bead Cotoneaster, Grayleaf Cotoneaster, Large-Leaved Cotoneaster)
This is an evergreen variety that grows best in USDA hardiness zones 7-9 or Sunset growing zones 11-14 and 18-20. Individual plants reach up to 6-8 feel tall and wide with graceful, arching branches. Foliage is grey-green, and its dense clusters of white flowers are followed by dark red berries. Attractive in beds of shrubs or as an informal hedge. This species is a known invasive in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, the United Kingdom, Argentina, and the western United States.

Cotoneaster horizontalis (Rock Cotoneaster)
Stiff, upright variety that grows to 2-3 feet tall and 15 feet wide. Branches form a 'herringbone pattern'. This is a deciduous variety that grows best in USDA hardiness zones 4-7 or Sunset growing zones A3, 2b-11, and 14-24. Leaves are small and bright green and turn orange in the fall before falling off the plant. Leafless period is brief. Effective when given enough room to spread and does not react well to hard pruning to contain growth. Rock Cotoneaster is invasive in the United Kingdom, Australia, Ireland and the northwestern United States.

Cotoneaster microphyllus (Rock Spray Cotoneaster)
Evergreen shrub that grows best in USDA hardiness zones 4-8 or Sunset growing zones A3, 2-9, and 14-24. Horizontal branches trail and sprout roots to form a shrub that is 2-3 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Leaves are quite small, colored green on the top and grey underneath and fruit is a 'rosy' red. A good example of this shrub is 'Cooperi', which is a miniature (up to 2 feet tall and 1 foot wide) plant perfect for use in rock gardens. Rock Spray Cotoneaster is invasive in Australia, the United Kingdom, and the United States.

Cotoneaster salicifolius (Willow-Leaf Cotoneaster)
Can either be evergreen or semi-evergreen, and grows in USDA hardiness zones 6-8 or Sunset growing zones 3b-24. Individual plants grow to be up to 18 feet tall and wide with narrow, dark green foliage. Fruits are bright red. It does great as a screening plant, and has graceful arching branches. This group of shrubs also includes a few groundcover varieties, including 'Emerald Carpet'. This species is considered an invasive plant in California and Oregon in the United States, as well as in western and central Europe.

Caring for Cotoneaster

Take care when planting these shrubs and trees in the landscape, as plant parts can be mildly to moderately poisonous to humans and pets if ingested. Cotoneasters are very easy to care for if planted in the right environment. They look better and will produce more fruits if planted on dry, sloped areas with good drainage. They are commonly used to reduce erosion on hillsides, and often do not need amended soil for their roots. They are best when left to their natural habits, so make sure to choose the right variety for your space before planting. Plant Cotoneaster in full sun; ideally, these shrubs and trees should get between 6 and 8 hours of direct sun each day. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 5.0 and 7.5 (acidic to slightly alkaline). Soil does not need to be amended before planting, even if it is thin. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these trees and shrubs are considered to be drought-tolerant, able to get by on rainwater alone for much of the year with supplemental waterings during extended periods of drought.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. A generous amount of mulch should be applied in the fall to protect roots over the winter months. Pruning on Cotoneasters is done yearly in late winter or early springtime to trim off old, dead wood and awkward branches. They can be rejuvenated to reduce density and be revitalized by cutting back 1/3 of the oldest wood each year over three years. Cotoneasters typically live in the landscape for 10-20 years (though they can potentially last for over 50), making them long-lived ornamentals.

Propagation

Cotoneasters are often naturally propagated through wildlife, mainly birds. However, if you'd like to propagate this shrub yourself, you can either take a cutting, or grow a new plant from seed. Taking a cutting to propagating a new plant is the easiest and fastest way to have a new specimen for your garden.

Propagating Cotoneaster by Hardwood Cutting

Prepare your propagation pot by filling it with sand. The pot should be large enough to space apart your cuttings by about 2 inches, and about 6-8 inches deep, and should have a drainage hole. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In early fall or early spring, choose a cotoneaster you'd like to propagate. During these times, the plant is more dormant. Take a few hardwood cuttings off of the main stem of the plant, approximately 6-8 inches each. Each cutting should have about three nodes on them. The width of the cutting should be at least a quarter of an inch. Make cuts right below nodes.
Scrape the bottom inch of bark off of the cutting and remove most of the leaves (if there are any). Leave the top few leaves on the cutting.
Dip your cutting in rooting hormone, and then push them into your potting medium, ensuring that they are spaced apart by about two inches. Water your cuttings, ensuring that water can drain out of the bottom of the pot.
Place your pot in a warm, sunny, safe area. Keep the sand moist, but not wet, as your cuttings take root. They should start rooting within 6-8 weeks.

Propagating Cotoneaster by Softwood Cutting

Prepare your propagation pot by filling it with sand, and ensuring there is a drainage hole in the bottom. The pot should be large enough to space apart your cuttings by about 2 inches, and should be approximately 6-8 inches deep. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Softwood cuttings should be taken from the parent plant when it is actively growing. This will usually be between late May to the end of August. Choose your cuttings from the 'soft wood' of the plant, the newer growth towards the ends of the branches. Each cutting you take should be about 5-6 inches in length.
Scrape the bottom inch of bark off of the cutting and remove most of the leaves, leaving only the top few. Dip in rooting hormone and push your cuttings into the growing medium, ensuring that you have them spaced at least two inches apart.
Water your cuttings, ensuring that excess water is draining out of the bottom, and place your pot in a warm, sunny spot. Keep the sand moist, but not wet, as the cuttings take root. They should start rooting within three to four weeks.

Propagating Cotoneaster by Seed

This method of propagating Cotoneaster is by far the slowest; seeds can take up to two years to germinate.
Harvest ripe berries from an existing Cotoneaster in the fall. Cut them open to collect the seeds inside.
Place your seeds in a bowl with some dirt and small rocks, and stir it around a bit to scar the seeds. Place the seeds in well-draining organic soil or compost and cover them with backfill. Place your seeds in a place where they will get cold weather for a few months. Keep them moist, but not wet, until the spring time.
You can sow the seeds after the spring comes around, when the roots are visible. The seed can now be transplanted. Your plant may take up to a year and a half longer to really grow into its own, and requires a close eye to monitor soil moisture. Once your plant has hit the two-year mark, it can be transplanted to its final home.

Berries are ripe in late summer to fall, and contain between 1 and 5 seeds. They vary in color depending on the species.

Cotoneaster seeds are small and light brown to tan.

Problems and Pests

Cotoneaster species are considered invasive in many areas of the globe; see the species descriptions above for more information. Check with local authorities before planting. Cotoneaster shrubs and trees are susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases in the landscape: