Cucurbita

( koo - KURR - bit - uh )

At-A-Glance Information

Commonly known as Gourds, Squash, or Pumpkin, these fruiting vines are all native to the Andes and Mesoamerica. All species are cultivated for their flesh and seeds. Plants can be annuals, short-lived perennials, or perennials, and have varying water needs. They grow to reach between 15 to 50 feet long, and produce tendrils to help them climb and scramble over the ground, adjacent plants, or other structures. Leaves are typically green and large. Include these plants in edible or vegetable gardens, or simply grow these fruits as compostable seasonal décor.

Cucurbita Species and Varietals

The genus Cucurbita is the type genus member of the plant family Cucurbitaceae, and includes 27 species. The best growing zones for Cucurbita plants vary depending on the species grown. For more information, see the species descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Cucurbita argyrosperma (Cushaw Squash, Silver-Seed Gourd)
This species of winter squash is native to Mexico, and is an annual cultivated in the Americas for its nutritional value. Foliage is green, and flowers are orange or yellow, blooming in July or August. Plants reach about 1 foot tall and spread out to 10-15 feet. Fruits can weigh up to 20 pounds. Cultivars include 'Campeche Squash' (cultivated mainly for its seeds), 'Green-Striped Cushaw', 'Japanese Pie Pumpkin', 'Jonathan Pumpkin', and 'Orange-Striped Cushaw'. Fruits are harvested between 95 and 120 days after planting.

Cucurbita digitata (Fingerleaf Gourd, Bitter Squash)
These hairy, vining plants have sharply palmate green leaves and yellow flowers. Fruits are dark green, rounded, and typically have mottling or distinct stripes on their skin. Flesh is bitter and is generally not edible; the seeds are commonly eaten by wild animals. Fruits are harvested 80-120 days after planting.

Cucurbita ficifolia (Black Seed Squash, Chilacayote, Cidra, Fig Leaf Gourd, Malabar Gourd)
This species is cultivated around the world for its edible seeds, fruit, and greens. It is a perennial plant, commonly grown as an annual, and produces yellow to orange flowers. Fruits are generally uniform in size, shape, and color. They weigh up to 13 pounds each, and one plant can produce over 50 fruits, which can last for years if kept dry after harvesting. Immature fruits are eaten cooked, and mature fruits are used to flavor confections and beverages. It is also used to make jams, pie filling, and soups. Fruits are harvested between 100 and 120 days after planting.

Cucurbita foetidissima (Buffalo Gourd, Stinking Gourd, Calabaza de Coyote)
This species, native to Mexico and the central and southwestern United States, is well-adapted to growing in desert environments. Fruits are consumed by humans and animals. These plants form a large, fleshy tap root that is used as an overwintering storage structure, and are also used as durable groundcovers and as erosion control. These plants take 90-120 days to reach mature fruit-bearing stage.

Cucurbita maxima (Winter Squash)
This is the most diverse domesticated species in the genus, and is native to South America. Commonly cultivated varieties are listed and described below:

'Arikara Squash'
4-11 pound fruits with a teardrop or round shape. Edible and decorative.

'Banana Squash'
Elongated shape with light blue, pink, or orange skin and bright orange flesh.

'Boston Marrow'
Sweet, narrow at one end and bulbous at the other.

'Buttercup Squash'
Flattened top and dark green skin, between 3 and 5 pounds. Yellow-orange dense flesh.

'Candy Roaster Squash'
This cultivar weighs 3-5 pounds and has dense, yellow-orange flesh.

'Hubbard Squash'
Teardrop-shaped fruits used similarly to pumpkins in cooking.

'JAP (Kent) Pumpkin'
Popular pumpkin cultivar with dark green and cream skin. Bright orange flesh.

'Kabocha'
Japanese varietal with dark green skin and golden-orange flesh.

'Lakota Squash'
American variety popular for baking. Pear-shaped with orange rind striped with green.

'Nanticoke Squash'
Popular in woodland areas of the East Coast of the U.S. with extremely variable fruits.

'Turban Squash'
(French Turban)
Closely related to Buttercup Squash.

Cucurbita moschata (Cushaw, Winter Crookneck Squash, Japanese Pie Squash, Large Cheese Pumpkin)
This species of Squash has many varieties and cultivars, and is native to Mexico and Central America.

'Al Hachi'
Winter squash popular in the Kashmir region, usually dried.

'Aehobak' (Korean Zucchini)
Summer squash cultivar.

'Brazilian Crook Neck'
Large, curved neck variety with orange flesh and dark green skin with orange markings.

'Butternut Squash'
Popular winter squash cultivated in North America.

'Calabaza'
Winter squash commonly grown in the Caribbean, tropical Americas, and the Philippines.

'Dickinson Pumpkin'
Great for canning.

'Giromon'
Large, green squash grown in the Caribbean; used to make 'Soupe Giromon'.

'Loche'
Landrace of squashes native to Peru.

'Liscia'
Early-season (mature after 115-130 days). Similar look to a Butternut Squash.

'Long Island Cheese Pumpkin'
Resembles a wheel of cheese in shape, color and texture.

'Musquee de Provence' (Fairytale Pumpkin)
Large hybrid pumpkin varietal from France with sweet deep orange flesh. Often sold by the slice.

'Naples Long Squash'
(Courge Pleine de Naples)
Large, long squash cultivar with deep green skin grown in France and Italy.

'Sao Paulo Pumpkin'
Butternut-shaped varietal with white and green striping. Flesh is orange.

'Seminole Pumpkin'
Heirloom cultivar native to Florida. Round to pear-shaped pastel orange fruits.

'Tromoncino' (Zucchetta)
Summer squash variety with light green skin and a long, thin, curved neck.

Cucurbita okeechobeensis (Okeechobee Gourd)
Native to Mexico and the United States, this species is considered endangered due to habitat destruction and climate change. It forms a climbing vine with cream-colored flowers. Fruits are typically round and green. These plants prefer growing in wetland areas, and are common wild vines occurring near Lake Okeechobee, Florida.

Cucurbita pepo (Winter Squash, Pumpkin, Summer Squash, Zucchini)
This species has been domesticated for thousands of years in the Americas, and varieties have diverse genetic backgrounds. Fruits vary widely in appearance.

'Acorn'
This winter squash can be a shrubby or creeping plant. Fruits have longitudinal grooves.

'Cocozelle'
This summer squash produces long, slender fruits.

'Crookneck'
This summer squash forms a shrubby plant with yellow, gold, or white long fruits with warts and curved necks.

'Pumpkin'
Winter squash forms a creeping plant producing round or oval fruits that are flat on top and bottom.

'Scallop'
Summer squash with a flattened, somewhat disc-shaped fruit with undulations.

'Straightneck'
Summer squash on a shrubby plant that has yellow-golden skin and a narrow stem end.

'Vegetable Marrow'
Summer or winter squashes that are cream to dark green. Short, stout fruits.

'Zucchini' (Courgette)
This popular summer squash produces green cylindrical fruits.

Caring for Cucurbita

Plant Cucurbits in full sun. These crops will produce more flowers (and subsequent fruits) the more sun they get; between 6-8 hours of direct sun each day is ideal. While installing, make sure to space plants far enough apart that they will get enough airflow to decrease the odds that fungal diseases will take hold. Check seed packets or plant labels for exact spacing suggestions. Cucurbit plants prefer soil that is well-draining and nutrient rich to support the growing season's flowering and fruit development. If soil is particularly poor or clayey, make sure to amend the planting site with plenty of organic material (or grow in containers). After installation, make sure to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Water at the base of plants to prevent wetting the leaves, which can lead to mildew or fungal issues. The best time to water is early in the morning, which will allow extra moisture to evaporate once the sun comes up. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, increase soil moisture retention and regulate soil temperatures.

Amending soil with plenty of organic matter and/or compost should be sufficient to support the flowering and fruiting for the season, but if plants seem to be struggling or they are not producing well, they may benefit from additional feedings. Use a slow-release fertilizer with higher potassium and phosphorus levels than nitrogen (for example, a 3-4-6 fertilizer). Make sure to not over-fertilize plants with nitrogen, as this will encourage more foliage growth at the expense of flowering and fruiting. These plants do not need to be pruned, but doing so can help to increase airflow and improve the health of the plant. Those grown on trellises can have their base foliage trimmed off (the first three or four nodes up the plant). This will keep new growth from laying on the ground where it will attract diseases and pest insects. Remove dead, damaged, dying, or pest-infested foliage. When pruning, make a few cuts, and then stand back and examine the plant as a whole to avoid over-pruning and damaging the plant.

Harvesting Cucurbita
Fruits of Cucurbit plants are typically ready for harvesting between 80 and 120 days after seeds germinate. They will continue to produce fruits through the season, until plants are killed by cold temperatures. The best time to pick fruits is dependent on the species and varietal grown as well as how the fruit will be used once harvested. Typically, they are harvested when they are at the right size and color for their variety. Some species mature quickly, so it is best to harvest them before they become overripe. Cut fruits off of the vine using clean, sharp shears, leaving an inch or two of stem attached to the fruit to prevent rot. Cure harvested fruits in a warm, dry, ventilated space for 1-2 weeks. This will harden skin and make fruits last longer in storage. Store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area away from fruits that release ethylene.

Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.

Propagation

The best way to propagate plants in the Cucurbita genus is through seed.

Propagating Cucurbita by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. Cucurbita seeds are typically flat and light tan to whitish, contained inside of the fruits produced by plants. Allow a few fruits to over-ripen on the vine. Harvest these fruits, cutting them from the vine and allowing them to lay out and dry up a bit. Next, cut the fruit(s) open and remove the seeds inside. Rinse them to remove any remaining flesh. Lay the seeds out in a single layer to dry.
Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about an inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. If planting directly out in the garden, space seeds of vining types 3-4 feet apart and bush types 2-3 feet apart. Germination usually takes 3-10 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home (if seeds were not direct sown).