Echeveria

( ek - eh - VEER - ee - uh )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of succulent perennial plants includes species which need full sun or partial shade and moderate water to perform well in the landscape. They are native to Mexico and form rosettes of fleshy leaves marked with darker colors. Flowers come in shades of pink, red, orange, or yellow, and will attract pollinators to the garden. Use Echeveria plants in rock gardens, containers, mixed beds and borders. They can also be grown indoors as houseplants.

Echeveria Species and Varietals

There are approximately 180 species of Echeveria, and many hybrid varieties. It is a member of the plant family Crassulaceae. The best growing zones for Echeveria vary depending on the species; see the descriptions below for more information. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Echeveria agavoides (Wax Agave, Molded Wax, Molded Wax Plant, Carpet Echeveria)
This species grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9a-11b or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 12-24, and forms 6-8 inch rosettes of firm, pointed bright green leaves. They are often marked with deep red-brown at the tips and edges of foliage. Stalks 1.5 feet tall produce flowers in red-and-yellow flowers. Varieties include 'Lipstick' (pictured; with bright green, red-edged leaves), 'Maria' (to 12 inches wide with green leaves edged and tipped with red), 'Romeo' (with deep purple hues), and 'Ebony' (with very dark toned hues on foliage).

Echeveria elegans (Hen and Chicks, Mexican Snowball, Mexican Gem, White Mexican Rose, Mexican Hens and Chicks)
This species grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9a-11b or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 12-24, and forms tight 4-inch rosettes and spreads freely by offsets. Flowers are pink and lined with yellow. Useful for edges and containers. Can burn in summer sun, so they need some protection during this season. This species is considered invasive in Australia.

Echeveria spp. Hybrids (Hybrid Echeveria)
These plants grow best in USDA hardiness zones 9a-11b or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 12-24. They commonly have large, loose rosettes that form on single or branched stems and leaves come in a variety of colors, variegation, and sizes. They do well in pots as well as in open ground (in mild-summer areas). Popular selections are outlined below:

'Afterglow'
Pink-lavender chalky leaves are edged in bright pink.

'Arlie Wright'
Has large, open rosettes with wavy pink-ish leaves.

'Big Red'
Leaves are triangular that are green and edged in red, turning rose-red at the tips.

'Black Prince'
Small variety, to 3 inches wide with dark red-purple foliage.

'Blue Curls'
Edges are frilly, leaves are blue-green and get pink-ish in cooler weather.

'Domingo'
Powder-blue leaves.

'Lola'
Mauve to silver-pink foliage about 4 inches wide.

'Perle von Nurnberg'
Lavender-blue, pearly foliage.

'Doris Taylor'
Compact variety, with hairy leaves. Nodding flowers are showy, and come in red and yellow.

'Pulv-oliver' ('Red Edge')
This variety has fuzzy leaves tipped with red and gets 12 inches tall.

'Imbricata' (E. x imbricata)
4-6 inch rosettes form from gray-green leaves. Flowers are orange-red. Sets chicks freely and is commonly seen in gardens.

Echeveria nodulosa (Painted Echeveria)
This species of Echeveria grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9-12 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 13-24, and has a branching habit forming multiple rosettes 1-2 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide. Leaves are ribbed underneath and marked with red on margins and in the middle of leaves. Flowers bloom in summer, are light yellow and marked with red, like the leaves. Performs best in partial shade in hotter summer climates.

Echeveria runyonii (Topsy Turvy Echeveria, Mexican Hen and Chicks)
Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9a-11b or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 14-24. Forms rosettes 1 foot tall and wide. Leaves are silver-blue and point back towards the center of the rosette. Flowers are orange and yellow, and appear from late summer through fall. 'Topsy Turvy' is the primary cultivar of this species; others include 'Dr. Butterfield' (with pinkish leaves), and 'Lucita' (a compact grower).

Echeveria secunda (Hen and Chicks, Blue Echeveria, Glaucus Echeveria, Painted Lady, Wax Rosette)
Grows in USDA hardiness zones 9a-11b or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 14-24. Forms grey-green or blue-green rosettes that are about 4 inches across. Offsets freely. Variety Echeveria secunda glauca (Echeveria glauca) has leaves that are edged with purple-red, and the blue-green rosettes are also tinged purple). This species is considered invasive in New Zealand, the Dominican Republic, and Vietnam.

Echeveria setosa (Mexican Firecracker, Firecracker Echeveria, Firecracker Plant)
Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9a-11b or Sunset growing zones 17, 23 and 24, and forms 4-inch wide rosettes that are dark green and covered with white hairs. Flowers are red and tipped with yellow. Great for rock gardens or shallow containers. This is a very delicate, tender Echeveria. that requires protection outdoors or to be grown indoors.

Echeveria subrigida (Red Edge Echeveria)
This species grows in USDA hardiness zones 9a-11b zones 8, 9 and 14-24, and reaches 9-12 inches tall and 1-2 feet wide at maturity. Leaves are light bluish-green and are edged in dark pink. Flowers are coral pink and orange, and bloom from late spring to summer. Cultivars of this species include 'Fire and Ice' (with silver-blue leaves that have vivid magenta-red margins to 18 inches wide) and 'Mexican Giant' (produces massive white-blue powdery rosettes).

Caring for Echeveria

Plant Echeveria succulents in a space in the landscape that receives full sun; ideally, they appreciate between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day for the best blooms. When these flowers are grown in less light, they will not flower as profusely. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a circumneutral pH of between 6.0 and 7.5 (slightly acidic to slightly alkaline). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants are considered drought-tolerant, able to get by on rainwater alone for much of the year with supplemental waterings during extended periods of dry, warm weather. Allow soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Echeveria species vary in their life expectancies; some are annuals, others are perennials. Annuals are typically pulled at the end of the growing season, composted, and replaced the next year. Perennial species can last for a few years to over a century before needing to be replaced.

Caring for Echeveria in Containers
Echeveria plants do well in the ground but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. These plants prefer a rocky or sandy substrate that is well-draining. Top with a layer of rock mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Echeveria plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Propagation

The best way to propagate Echeveria is by cutting in springtime. To propagate your succulent, you will need a clean, sharp knife or garden shears and a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix (if you will not be replanting in the ground). When you have gathered your materials, follow the directions below to propagate your plant:

Use your clean, sharp garden shears or knife to cut off a piece of stem with leaves. Place this cutting on its side and leave it in a dry, warm, shaded spot for at least three days. This will cause the root end to heal and form a hard callous. Doing this helps the plant avoid root rot when it gets planted in potting mix.
Fill your pot with the potting mix described above, and then place the calloused end of your cutting into the soil. Push down until the cutting can stay upright without assistance. Place the pot in a spot that receives bright, indirect light and water lightly once a week. Do not allow the soil to become too moist or dry out completely.
Your cutting should grow roots in about two weeks, whether or not it is placed in potting medium. To check for roots, lightly tug on the plant. If it resists, you have roots.