Forsythia

( for - SITH - ee - uh )

At-A-Glance Information

Forsythia is a genus of fast-growing deciduous shrubs that need full sun and moderate to regular water to perform well in the garden. Native to China and Korea, these shrubs bloom on naked, rough-barked grey-brown branches, providing a beautiful yellow show of flowers in early springtime. These plants can be trained as espaliers, used as screening plants, or employed as tall groundcover or bank cover plants to reduce erosion. Forsythia will attract bees and butterflies to the landscape, and branches can be used in cut flower arrangements. Take care when planting Forsythia in the landscape, as ingestion of plant parts in large quantities can be poisonous to humans and pets.

Forsythia Species and Varietals

The genus Forsythia includes around 11 species and is a member of the Olive plant family, Oleaceae. The genus is named for William Forsyth, a Scottish botanist. Forsythia grows best in USDA hardiness zones 4-9 or Sunset growing zones A2, A3, 2b-11, 14-16, 18, and 19. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Forsythia europaea (Albanian Forsythia, European Forsythia)
This species of Forsythia is the only one in the genus that is native to Europe, and reaches up to 10 feet tall when mature. Leaves are green and have smooth margins. Flowers reach just over an inch in diameter, followed by gold-yellow fruit capsules. Cultivars include 'Meadowlark' (with deep yellow blooms) and 'Northern Sun' (with larger, golden flowers). This species is considered invasive in the eastern United States.

Forsythia spp. Hybrids (Hybrid Forsythia, Hardy Forsythia)
These hybrid shrubs are more tolerant of cold temperatures than other species in the genus.

'Meadowlark'
Gets 6-9 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Bright yellow flowers on arching branches, hardy to -35 degrees Fahrenheit.

'New Hampshire Gold'
Grows to 5 feet tall and just as wide, with drooping yellow flowers. Hardy to -35 degrees Fahrenheit.

'Northern Sun'
Erect growth to 8-10 feet tall and a little more narrow, Hardy to -30 degrees Fahrenheit.

Forsythia x intermedia
This is a group of hybrids that include the following varieties. Take care when planting these shrubs in the landscape, as they are considered invasive in the eastern and southern United States.

'Beatrix Farrand'
10 feet tall and 7 feet wide. Branches deeply set with deep yellow flowers marked with orange.

'Fiesta'
3-4 feet tall and wide, with deep yellow flowers and yellow-variegated leaves.

'Gold Tide'
20 inches tall, 4 feet wide. Profuse yellow blooms.

'Goldzauber'
6-8 feet tall and slightly more narrow, with deep yellow blooms.

'Karl Sax'
8 feet tall and wide, with neat, graceful branches.

'Lynwood'
7 feet tall, 4-6 feet wide. Yellow blooms that hold on through spring.

'Magical Gold'
4-5 feet tall and wide. Deep golden blooms bloom profusely and densely.

'Show Off'
5-6 feet tall and wide, with bright yellow flowers and dark green foliage.

'Spring Glory'
About 6 feet tall and wide, with pale yellow flowers.

'Arnold Dwarf'
A low-growing form with pale yellow flowers.

Forsythia x mandshurica (Manchurian Forsythia)
This is an exceptionally cold-hardy hybrid shrub that is native to northeastern China. It is hardy to -35 degrees Fahrenheit and reaches up to about 8 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Leaves turn yellow, orange, or deep red in fall. Flowers are yellow.
'Vermont Sun' is a popularly sold cultivar of this hybrid species.

Forsythia ovata (Korean Forsythia, Early Forsythia)
This species of Forsythia is native to the Korean Peninsula. Individual plants reach up to 4-6 feet tall and 10 feet wide at maturity. It is an early bloomer with bright yellow flowers. Cultivar 'Tetragold' is lower growing (about three feet tall). Hardy to -50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Forsythia suspensa (Weeping Forsythia, Golden-Bell)
Dense, upright growth to 8-10 feet tall and 6-8 feet wide, with golden yellow flowers on vine-like branches that can root where they touch damp soil. Can also be trained to be a vine, and if branches are supported, branchlets will cascade. This is a very commonly grown species of Forsythia in gardens. Great for stream banks, grassy thickets, and on slopes.

Forsythia viridissima (Greenstem Forsythia, Chinese Golden Bell Tree, Green-Stemmed Forsythia, Korean Forsythia)
Grown in USDA hardiness zones 5-9 or Sunset growing zones A2, A3, 2b-11, 14-16, 18, and 19. Grows to reach 6-10 feet tall and wide at maturity, with deep green foliage. Stems are olive green and have greenish-yellow flowers. Variety 'Bronxensis' is a slow-grower to 1 foot high and 2-3 feet wide and is used as a groundcover. This is a very commonly grown species of Forsythia in gardens.

Caring for Forsythia

Take care when planting Forsythia in the landscape, as ingestion of plant parts in large quantities can be poisonous to humans and pets. Forsythia shrubs are considered easy to grow, and do not require much maintenance once established. Plant in late fall or early springtime in full sun to partial shade. Ideally, these shrubs like to get morning sun and afternoon shade, and are naturally understory trees. They prefer to have their roots in well-draining soil with a pH of between 5.0 and 8.0 (neutral to acidic). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plants regularly (at least 2 inches of water per week), and once they are established reduce waterings to deep waterings when there is no regular rainfall. Forsythia shrubs are relatively drought tolerant at maturity.

These shrubs do not really need to be fertilized; especially in their youth when fertilizing can cause growth issues. When established, these shrubs can be fertilized in spring and summer every few weeks with a slow-release granular fertilizer applied at the base. Because Forsythias are fast-growing, they do need some pruning to keep a neat habit in a cramped landscape. If grown at the edge of woodland areas, they are best looking when left to their own devices; they will form a loose, shrubby plant with arching branches. These wild-looking shrubs can go for years without any pruning. If you are creating a more formal garden and would like to feature a pruned Forsythia, the best time to prune is springtime after blooms have faded. Remove a quarter to a third of the oldest branches, making cuts at ground level. This will encourage a more compact form and produce new growth. These shrubs are long-lived perennials, able to survive in the landscape for 20 to 30 years before needing to be replaced.

Harvesting Forsythia
Forsythia shrubs are prized for their cut flower branches, which last for a very long time in arrangements. They are in bloom from late winter to early spring, and flowers appear before leafout. Choose branches for cutting that have buds that are just beginning to open up; they will bloom over a period of 1-3 weeks if kept in water. The best time to harvest is in the morning, after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Using clean, sharp shears, cut stems at a 45 degree angle just above a node. Drop the harvested flower stems into a bucket of cool water, and then bring them indoors to arrange them. Forsythia branches add vibrant color and drama to arrangements, and are typically paired with Alliums, Grape Hyacinth, Daffodils, or Tulips.

Propagation

Forsythia can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub follow the instructions below:

Propagating Forsythia by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In early to mid-summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 4-10 inch portion(s) of the end of a branch that has bloomed that year and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. There should be at least one node under the soil line. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about a month has passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until two years have passed. The propagated Forsythias can be outdoors, but should be in a protected area during this growing time. After they have created a good root system, they can be planted in the garden.

Propagating Forsythia by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. The seed pods on these plants are pretty easy to spot, they're large, brown and are held on the branches, left behind after flowers have faded. They each contain several winged seeds. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will begin to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them. The seeds are really small, so make sure not to lose any!
Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in groups of three in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.