Fuchsia
( FOOK - see - uh )
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At-A-Glance InformationFuchsia is a genus filled with species of evergreen and deciduous shrubs and small herbaceous plants that need full sun to partial shade and regular water to perform well in the garden. The brightly colored flowers will attract hummingbirds and other pollinators to the garden in droves. These shrubs are native to the tropical Americas, and grow best in cool-summer areas with high humidity. Although they are considered shrubs, many have a vining, trailing habit and are great for hanging baskets. Use Fuchsia in containers or in shady mixed beds and borders.
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Fuchsia Species and Varietals
The genus Fuchsia includes about 110 distinct species and is a member of the Willowherb or Evening Primrose plant family Onagraceae. This genus was named for German botanist Leonhart Fuchs by French explorer and botanist Charles Plumier. Fuchsia growing zones vary by species, though most do well in USDA hardiness zones 6-11. For more information, see the species descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Fuchsia boliviana (Bolivian Fuchsia, Lady's Eardrops) This evergreen species grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 17 and 22-24. Native to South America, this woody shrub can get to 12 feet tall and 8 feet wide on average. Pale green leaves are hairy, and blooms pop throughout the year, forming in dangling clusters of slender tubes. Fruit is pink-red. Variety 'Alba' (pictured) produces white and pink-red flowers and white fruits. |
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Fuchsia compos-portoi This species from Brazil is deciduous and grows best in USDA haridness zones 7-10 or Sunset growing zones 3b-9 and 14-24. It produces bicolored red and violet flowers and has a dense growth habit to about 7 feet tall at maturity. Profuse bloomer. Can be grown into a shrub or climb trees or other structures. |
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Fuchsia denticulata (Fuchsia serratifolia) (Toothed Fuchsia, Saw-Leaved Fuchsia) This is an evergreen species native to Peru and Bolivia. Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 17 and 22-24. Gets 8 feet tall and 3 feet wide, with dark green leaves. Flowers pop in spring and summer and are orange and red. Edible fruits follow. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. A well-known hybrid is 'Fanfare' (10 foot long stems, great for using as an espalier specimen or draped over a trellis). |
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Fuchsia excorticata (New Zealand Tree Fuchsia) Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 or Sunset growing zones 7-9, 15-17 and 22-24. It is evergreen in frost free areas but commonly considered deciduous. Native to New Zealand, this tree fuchsia can get to 10 feet tall or higher with a gnarled, twisted trunk and peeling bark. Leaves are green above and silver underneath. Springtime flowers are green, opening to burgundy, with bright blue pollen. Edible red or purple berries follow blooms. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. Variety 'Kiwi Sheen' has purple-red leaves with silvery pink undersides. |
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Fuchsia fulgens (Brilliant Fuchsia) Evergreen species that grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 15-17 and 22-24. Native to Mexico, this species forms a shrub 5 feet tall and wide with heart shaped to elliptical green leaves. Blooms winter to spring with orange-red flowers in clusters. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. Cultivars include 'Variegata' (with green and white variegated leaves and orange blooms) and 'Speciosa' (with particularly large, fuzzy leaves and vermillion flowers). |
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Fuchsia spp. Hybrids (Hybrid Fuchsia, Hybrid Lady's Eardrops)
Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 6-11 or Sunset growing zones 4-6, 15-17, 22-24, and H1. Sensitive to freezing temperatures. There are hundreds of varieties of hybrid Fuchsia sold at nurseries, and size varies from 3-6 feet tall and wide to trailing, hanging-basket varieties. Sepals are white, red or pink and the corollas can be almost any color. There are different flower forms and types of inflorescences. Many of these hybrids are sensitive to Fuchsia Gall Mite. See mite-resistant selections below:
Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 6-11 or Sunset growing zones 4-6, 15-17, 22-24, and H1. Sensitive to freezing temperatures. There are hundreds of varieties of hybrid Fuchsia sold at nurseries, and size varies from 3-6 feet tall and wide to trailing, hanging-basket varieties. Sepals are white, red or pink and the corollas can be almost any color. There are different flower forms and types of inflorescences. Many of these hybrids are sensitive to Fuchsia Gall Mite. See mite-resistant selections below:
'Arouet Fils'
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'Campo Molina'
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'Campo Thilco'
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'First Success'
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'Galfrey Blush'
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'Hinnerike'
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'Mendonoma Belle'
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'Strybing's Peach'
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In cooler regions, such as the Pacific Northwest, one of the main issues growing Fuchsia is protecting from cold (and frost). These hardier selections of Fuchsia hybrids will stand up better to this weather:
'Cardinal'
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'Jingle Bells'
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'June Bride'
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'Mrs. Popple'
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'Speciosa'
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'Surprise'
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'Phyllis'
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'Rufus'
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'Tessie'
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'Voltaire'
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'White Knights Amethyst'
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'Santa Cruz'
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Fuchsia magellanica (Hardy Fuchsia, Hummingbird Fuchsia, Chilco, Magellan Fuchsia, Lady's Eardrops, Earring Flower) Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 6-9 or Sunset growing zones 3b-9, 14-24 and H1. Deciduous where frosts are light; frost will damage the top of the plant. The species is native to Chile and Argentina. In frost-free areas, this plant can reach 10 feet tall and wide. Has a profuse bloom of drooping red and violet flowers. Very susceptible to Fuchsia Gall Mite. Varieties include 'Hawkshead' (hardy variety with dainty white blooms), and 'Windcliff Fury' (with purple-red flowers). |
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Fuchsia paniculata (Shrubby Fuchsia, Panicled Fuchsia, Aretillo Morado) This evergreen variety grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 16, 17, and 22-24 and is native to Mexico and Central America. Individual plants reach up to 12-14 feet tall and 8 feet wide and have shiny leaves. Flowers are small and lavender-pink, blooming in clusters. This species is resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. |
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Fuchsia procumbens (Creeping Fuchsia, Trailing Fuchsia, Climbing Fuchsia, Basket Fuchsia) This rare, semi-evergreen species of Fuchsia is native to New Zealand and grows best in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 or Sunset growing zones 4-6, 15-17, and 21-24. Individual plants reach up to 6 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide, and flowers are petal-less but have orange sepals dotted with green with purple tips. Bright red, delicious berries follow. Great as a groundcover or in container plantings. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. |
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Fuchsia thymifolia (Encliandra thymifolia) (Thyme-Leaved Fuchsia, Thyme Leafed Fuchsia) Evergreen species that grows in USDA hardiness zones 7-9 or Sunset growing zones 14-17 and 20-24 and is native to Mexico. Gets 3-9 feet tall and wide, with glossy green leaves and dangling, tiny white to pink flowers. Good candidate for a bonsai. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. |
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Fuchsia triphylla (Honeysuckle Fuchsia, Firecracker Fuchsia, Three-Leaved Fuchsia, Scarlet Fuchsia) This evergreen species of Fuchsia is best in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11 or Sunset growing zones 16-17, 23 and 24. This species is seldom seen in gardens and not widely sold, though its varietal 'Gartenmeister Bonstedt' is more recognizable. This species reaches up to 2 feet tall and wide and is more tolerant of heat and humidity than others in the genus. Leaves are red-bronze above and purple underneath. Orange-red flowers droop in clusters, and show year-round in mild climates. Needs to be protected from frost, but is resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. |
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Caring for Fuchsia
Fuchsia shrubs prefer to be planted in springtime (after the last frosts have passed) in full shade to at least partial shade conditions in well-draining but moist, rich soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0. Amend soil before planting with plenty of organic matter. These plants require regular feedings to perform and bloom well; starting in springtime, apply a balanced fertilizer once every two weeks. Diluted fish emulsion works very well; Fuchsias in pots or hanging baskets will prefer a water-soluble fertilizer, where in-ground Fuchsias will do better with a granular, slow-release variety. Keep soil consistently moist; potted plants will require daily watering. Fuchsias prefer a humid environment and temperatures that stay below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
As new growth appears in the springtime, pinch back to encourage a bushier, more foliage-rich habit. When a branch has finished blooming, snip it back with a pair of sharp, clean garden shears. Do this deadheading on a weekly basis to keep a neat appearance. If your Fuchsia plant has suffered frost damage in the cooler months of the year and is looking haggard and damaged, a rejuvenation pruning may be in order. Cut the plant back hard, bringing all stems back to the base in early spring. The plant should resprout new growth quickly. Plants can be moved indoors during the winter months to avoid dieback due to frost.
Harvesting Fuchsia
Many people don't realize that in addition to producing beautiful blooms to look at, Fuchsia leaves, flowers and the berries that follow are actually edible. Fruits are about a half inch to an inch in length, are either round or egg-shaped, and have a sweet, slightly acidic taste. Flower petals have a similar taste to them, and are wonderful in fruit and foliage salads. Harvest the flowers as soon as they appear on the plants; the entire flower is edible, though the petals are the tastiest part. If you would like to harvest the berries, you'll have to withhold deadheading and allow the flowers to fall off naturally. The berries left behind will ripen on the plant, and be ready to pick when they are soft (but not mushy). Fuchsia varieties that produce exceptional berries for eating include hybrids 'Jingle Bells', 'Fuschiaberry' as well as the species Fuchsia procumbens. Fuchsia leaves can be picked and eaten at any time, though newer leaves are less bitter than more mature ones.
Once picked, Fuchsia berries don't last long, so it's important to eat or preserve them as quickly as possible after they've ripened. A great option for preserving Fuchsia berries is to freeze them (they can stay frozen for up to a year); this will give you time to collect enough to make a dish or preserve. They can also be dried in a cool place with great airflow, and eaten like raisins. Add flowers and leaves to fresh dishes shortly after picking. Berries can be turned into jellies and jams, used in baking dishes, or added to yogurt.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
As new growth appears in the springtime, pinch back to encourage a bushier, more foliage-rich habit. When a branch has finished blooming, snip it back with a pair of sharp, clean garden shears. Do this deadheading on a weekly basis to keep a neat appearance. If your Fuchsia plant has suffered frost damage in the cooler months of the year and is looking haggard and damaged, a rejuvenation pruning may be in order. Cut the plant back hard, bringing all stems back to the base in early spring. The plant should resprout new growth quickly. Plants can be moved indoors during the winter months to avoid dieback due to frost.
Harvesting Fuchsia
Many people don't realize that in addition to producing beautiful blooms to look at, Fuchsia leaves, flowers and the berries that follow are actually edible. Fruits are about a half inch to an inch in length, are either round or egg-shaped, and have a sweet, slightly acidic taste. Flower petals have a similar taste to them, and are wonderful in fruit and foliage salads. Harvest the flowers as soon as they appear on the plants; the entire flower is edible, though the petals are the tastiest part. If you would like to harvest the berries, you'll have to withhold deadheading and allow the flowers to fall off naturally. The berries left behind will ripen on the plant, and be ready to pick when they are soft (but not mushy). Fuchsia varieties that produce exceptional berries for eating include hybrids 'Jingle Bells', 'Fuschiaberry' as well as the species Fuchsia procumbens. Fuchsia leaves can be picked and eaten at any time, though newer leaves are less bitter than more mature ones.
Once picked, Fuchsia berries don't last long, so it's important to eat or preserve them as quickly as possible after they've ripened. A great option for preserving Fuchsia berries is to freeze them (they can stay frozen for up to a year); this will give you time to collect enough to make a dish or preserve. They can also be dried in a cool place with great airflow, and eaten like raisins. Add flowers and leaves to fresh dishes shortly after picking. Berries can be turned into jellies and jams, used in baking dishes, or added to yogurt.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Propagation
Fuchsia can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Fuchsia by Cutting
Propagating Fuchsia by Seed
Propagating Fuchsia by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about one to two weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Fuchsia by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant, especially if you are dealing with a hybrid variety. To propagate by seed, you will need a strainer, a paper towel, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- Harvest seeds in autumn. The seed pods on Fuchsia plants are contained inside fruiting bodies that appear after flowers have faded (see the photos below). Cut the berries off of your Fuchsia plant, and set them aside until you are ready to work with them. Once you've collected all of your berries, remove the seeds from the sticky flesh and rinse them in a strainer. Then, let them dry on a paper towel.
- The following March or April, water the prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Seeds can also be sown immediately after being harvested, but they will need more care over the winter months to keep them at an acceptable temperature. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Fuchsia berries are left behind after flowers fade and ripen over time. Seeds are contained in these berries.
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Fuchsia seeds need to be removed from the fruit, rinsed, and dried before sowing.
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Problems and Pests
Fuchsias seldom suffer from disease or pest issues, though they are susceptible to:
- Fuchsia Gall Mite
Gallery
The drooping flowers on Fuchsia shrubs are beautiful when admired from close-up.
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Fuchsia shrubs when grown in the ground are great accents for along pathways.
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Use Fuchsia in hanging baskets to add foliage and color to overhangs and patio spaces.
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Videos
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All about growing and caring for Fuchsia.
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How to grow Fuchsia in your garden.
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How to propagate Fuchsia plants.
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How to rejuvenate Fuchsia plants.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 329 - 330, Fuchsia
