Garrya
( GAR - ee - uh )
At-A-Glance InformationGarrya is commonly referred to as Silktassel or Tassel Bush, due to its silky, drooping catkins that are present from the middle of winter through springtime. Male tree catkins are larger than those on female trees. Native to the West Coast, these evergreen shrubs are prized for their attractive foliage. Both male and female plants must be present for grapelike clusters of fruit to appear. They need full sun or partial shade, and the fruit attracts birds. Garrya shrubs are frequently grown as specimens in landscapes, against walls and fences, or as windbreaks.
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Garrya Species and Varietals
Garrya includes around 18 distinct species and is the type genus member of the plant family Garryaceae. It is closely related to Aucuba. Garrya growing zones vary by species; see the descriptions below for more information. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Garrya elliptica (Coast Silktassel, Silk Tassel Bush, Wavyleaf Silktassel) Grows best in USDA hardiness zone 7-10 or Sunset growing zones 4-9 and 14-24. These shrubs are native to the Coast Ranges from Oregon through California. They are densely foliaged, and can reach 8-15 feet tall and wide in gardens; shrubs can be trained as small trees. Leaves are dark green on top, gray and wooly underneath. Male catkins are greenish yellow, and fruits on female trees are purple and last through the summer. Can be used as a screen or hedge, but also does well as a specimen plant. Cultivars 'Evie' and 'James Roof' (pictured) have especially long catkins and are bred for garden cultivation. |
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Garrya fremontii (Fremont Silktassel, Bearbrush, California Feverbush, Quinine Bush) This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 6a-9b or Sunset growing zones 3-10, 12, and 14-17. Native to the mountains of the West Coast, these shrubs can reach 9 feet tall and just as wide at maturity. Leaves are glossy and smooth, and yellow-green on top and underneath. Yellowish or purple catkins appear on male plants, and purple or black fruit on female plants. Hardy to heat and cold. |
Caring for Garrya
Plant Garrya shrubs in fall or spring in well-draining soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 8.0. These shrubs actually prefer soil that is a bit poor, and will not grow well in overly rich soil. Plant in a space that receives full sun to partial shade. In cooler, coastal areas, these plants can handle full sun, but in inland locations they should get some afternoon shade to avoid leaf scorch. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. Water regularly for the first two years until the plant has established itself, and then reduce watering except for during long, hot dry spells. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. These plants are not heavy feeders, and this should be sufficient to provide the necessary nutrients for the active growing and flowering seasons. Prune Garrya in the early springtime, when catkins are starting to fade but before foliage growth has taken off. Prune only to remove errant or damaged branches. If the plant needs to be rejuvenated, do it over a few years; this will ensure the plant doesn't go into shock and possibly permanent decline. Garrya shrubs can be grown as informal hedges; in this situation, use hand shears instead of a hedge trimmer to avoid damaging the shrub. Garrya are long-lived shrubs and can reach up to 150 years old in favorable conditions. In gardens, they typically last for about 70 years before needing to be replaced.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. These plants are not heavy feeders, and this should be sufficient to provide the necessary nutrients for the active growing and flowering seasons. Prune Garrya in the early springtime, when catkins are starting to fade but before foliage growth has taken off. Prune only to remove errant or damaged branches. If the plant needs to be rejuvenated, do it over a few years; this will ensure the plant doesn't go into shock and possibly permanent decline. Garrya shrubs can be grown as informal hedges; in this situation, use hand shears instead of a hedge trimmer to avoid damaging the shrub. Garrya are long-lived shrubs and can reach up to 150 years old in favorable conditions. In gardens, they typically last for about 70 years before needing to be replaced.
Propagation
Garrya can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Garrya by Cutting
Propagating Garrya by Seed
Propagating Garrya by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Garrya by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- Harvest your seeds between May and August. Strip ripened fruits from branches Remove the seeds from the fruits by rubbing them against a fine mesh screen. Rinse the seeds carefully and set them out to dry on a paper towel. There are two seeds per fruit.
- Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 30-40 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Pot up as needed, and ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Problems and Pests
Although Garrya shrubs are generally pest-free, they do suffer from the following diseases:
- Leaf Spot
- Honey Fungus
Gallery
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Garryas grow well against walls, though they may need a little more water if they're also under an overhang.
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Garrya trees are great specimen trees; in wintertime, their catkins will be on full display.
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Plant Garrya shrubs or trees close to walkways, where their long catkins can be admired from below.
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Videos
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All about using Garrya elliptica to add winter interest to your garden.
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Garrya elliptica growing information.
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All about the Garrya elliptica variety 'James Roof'.
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A short video about Silk Tassel plant.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 333, Garrya