Hibiscus
( hye - BISK - us )
At-A-Glance InformationHibiscus is a genus of flowering perennials, annuals, and deciduous and evergreen shrubs and trees. They need full sun and regular water, and attract butterflies and hummingbirds, making them a choice shrub for gardeners looking to increase the biodiversity in their landscape. Their iconic flowers are large and beautiful, though not fragrant. Use Hibiscus shrubs as foundation plants, in mixed beds and borders, as specimens in the landscape (especially with species such as Hibiscus schizopetalus), or in containers on walkways or patios.
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hibiscus Species and Varietals
The genus Hibiscus includes hundreds of species (35 of which are North American natives) and even more varietals, and is a member of the plant family Malvaceae. The best growing zones for Hibiscus vary by species. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Hibiscus acetosella (Cranberry Hibiscus, African Rosemallow, False Roselle, Maroon Mallow, Red-Leaved Hibiscus, Red Shield Hibiscus) This perennial hardy species of Hibiscus is thought to be a hybrid between Hibiscus asper and Hibiscus surattensis. It is native to Africa, and is known as an edible spinach-like green (with a sour taste). Plants can reach between 3 and 6 feet tall at maturity. Foliage is cranberry-red and flowers are deep pink-red. This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 8-11. Cultivars include 'Mahogany Splendor' (with deeper maroon foliage), 'Red Shield', 'Panama Red', and 'Panama Bronze' (with reddish-bronze leaves). This species is considered invasive in Florida (United States) and certain regions of the Caribbean. |
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Hibiscus aculeatus (Comfortroot, Pineland Hibiscus, Big Thicket Hibiscus, Savanna Hibiscus) This species produces 4-5 inch wide creamy-yellow flowers with dark red markings towards their centers. It is native to the southeastern United States, and prefers to grow in warm, tropical and subtropical climates (USDSA hardiness zones 7-10). Individual plants reach up to 3-6 feet tall and 2-4 feet wide at maturity. |
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Hibiscus cannabinus (Deccan Hemp, Java Jute, Kenaf) This species is native to Africa, and produces fibers that have similar characteristics to Jute. They are annual or biennial herbaceous plants that can reach up to 12 feet tall. Plants have a woody base, and produce white, yellow, or pink flowers with dark reddish-purple centers. Leaves are deeply lobed towards the base of the plant. Kenaf grows well in USDA hardiness zones 6-12. This species is considered invasive in Asia, Australia, and North America (southeastern United States). |
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Hibiscus coccineus (Scarlet Rosemallow, Texas Star, Brilliant Hibiscus, Scarlet Hibiscus, Swamp Hibiscus) These plants are native to the southeastern United States, where they typically grow in swamps, marshes, and ditches. The species forms an herbaceous perennial that dies back to the ground during winter, and reaches between 6 and 8 feet tall. Cultivars include 'Lone Star' (also called 'Alba', with large white flowers), and 'Lord Baltimore' (with deep red flowers). |
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Hibiscus coulteri (Desert Rosemallow, Coulter Hibiscus, Desert Hibiscus, Tulipán) These plants are native to desert landscapes in the southwestern United States and northern Mexico. They are short-lived perennials, reaching up to 6 feet tall at maturity. Great for pollinators during dry periods, these plants grow without much water, and are perfect for xeriscaping. They grow well in USDA hardiness zones 9a-10b. |
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Hibiscus dasycalyx (Neches River Rosemallow, Neches River Rose-Mallow) This critically endangered species is native to eastern Texas, where it grows in floodplains between high and low water levels. Individual plants reach up to 7.5 feet tall at maturity. Flowers are 4 inches wide and white with deep maroon centers, blooming from midsummer through fall. |
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Hibiscus grandiflorus (Large-Flowered Hibiscus, Swamp Rosemallow, Velvet Hardy Mallow) This species is native to the southern United States and prefers to grow in tidal marshes, lakeshores, and other wet habitats. It forms a woody perennial plant that can reach up to 6 feet tall at maturity. Flowers are white to pinkish with reddish-purple centers and yellow stamens. They are typically over 6 inches across. This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7-10. |
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Hibiscus hamabo (Hardy Yellow Hibiscus, Hamabo Hibiscus, Yellow Hibiscus, Hamabou) This species is native to coastal areas in Japan, China, and Korea, and has bright yellow flowers with red centers. It forms a perennial shrub or small tree that has good salt tolerance and moderate drought tolerance. They range in height from 3 to 16 feet tall, and produce flowers that are up to 6 inches wide. Hardy Yellow Hibiscus grows well in USDA hardiness zones 8-12. |
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Hibiscus heterophyllus (Native Rosella, Toilet Paper Bush, Dtharang-gange) This species can take the form of a shrub or small tree, and produces stems that have prickles. Flowers are yellow, white, or pale pink with dark red centers, and bloom from spring to summer. Native Rosella thrives in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 and is native to eastern Australia. Individual plants in this species reach up to 6-16 feet tall in gardens (and up to 20 feet tall in their natural habitat). |
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Hibiscus insularis (Phillip Island Hibiscus) Native to a small island off of mainland Australia, this critically endangered species of hibiscus produces green-yellow flowers that fade to mauve. Foliage is green and glossy. Phillip Island Hibiscus grows well in USDA hardiness zones 9b-13, preferring warm, tropical landscapes. Individual plants reach up to 8-10 feet tall and 13-16 feet wide at maturity. |
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Hibiscus laevis (Hibiscus militaris) (Halberd-Leaf Rosemallow, Smooth Rose-Mallow, Scarlet Rose-Mallow) Native to central and eastern North America, this species produces very showy white to pinkish flowers. Blooms have dark pink to purple throats. It forms upright green stems and halberd-shaped green leaves. This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 4-9. |
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Hibiscus lasiocarpos (Hairy-Fruited Hibiscus, Rosemallow, Woolly Rose Mallow) These plants are native to the southeastern United States as well as some areas of California and northern Mexico and grow well in USDA hardiness zones 10b-11. They form large, bushy herbaceous plants with sprawling stems. Leaves are green and heart-shaped. Flowers are white with red centers. These shrubs reach up to 3-7 feet tall and 2-4 feet wide at maturity. |
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Hibiscus mutabilis (Fuyo, Dixie Rosemallow, Cotton Rose, Cotton Rosemallow) This is a deciduous shrub or tree that grows best in USDA hardiness zones 7-11 or Sunset growing zones 4-24, H1 and H2. This is a native of southern China and Taiwan, and in the warmest climates can reach 15 feet tall and 8 feet wide. Flowers bloom in summer and are 4-6 inches wide, in white or pink to deep red in the evening. Cultivars include 'Flore Peno' (pictured, with double, rose to white flowers), 'Kristi's Cotton Candy' (with pink flowers), 'Rubrum' (with single red blooms). |
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Hibiscus radiatus (Monarch Rosemallow, Rayed Hibiscus, Monarch Hibiscus, Ruby Hibiscus) This species is commonly grown for its medicinal and crop value, and produces foliage with odd-shaped lobes. It is native to southern and southeastern Asia, and produces mauve flowers with purple centers. Has small prickles along stems. This species has naturalized in several tropical and subtropical regions, but is considered weedy intead of invasive. |
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese Hibiscus, Tropical Hibiscus, Hawaiian Hibiscus, Rose Mallow, Shoeblack Plant, China Rose, Rosemallow)
This evergreen shrub grows best in zones 9, 12-16, 19-24, H1 and H2. It can reach 30 feet tall and 20 feet wide, but is typically grown at 6-15 feet tall and 5-8 feet wide. Leaves are glossy and their shape depends on the variety. Flowers are single or double, and colors range from white, pink, and red to yellow, apricot and orange. Individual flowers only last one day, but the plant blooms continuously. Cultivars are listed and described below:
This evergreen shrub grows best in zones 9, 12-16, 19-24, H1 and H2. It can reach 30 feet tall and 20 feet wide, but is typically grown at 6-15 feet tall and 5-8 feet wide. Leaves are glossy and their shape depends on the variety. Flowers are single or double, and colors range from white, pink, and red to yellow, apricot and orange. Individual flowers only last one day, but the plant blooms continuously. Cultivars are listed and described below:
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Hibiscus sabdariffa (Roselle, Agua de Jamaica, Flor de Jamaica, Bissap, Sorrel, Jamaican Sorrel, Carcade, Karkadeh, Florida Cranberry) This species is native to West Africa and has naturalized in many areas around the world. Stems of these plants are harvested for their fibers, and calyces are dried and infused into tea. Individual plants reach up to 7-8 feet tall and green leaves have three to five lobes each. Flowers are pale yellow with dark red spots at their center and calyces are red. This species is considered invasive in Australia. |
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Hibiscus schizopetalus (Fringed Rosemallow, Japanese Lantern, Coral Hibiscus, Spider Hibiscus, Fringed Hibiscus, Skeleton Hibiscus) This species reaches up to 10 feet tall, and produces red, salmon-colored, or pink flowers with frilled, recurved petals. These are very highly prized ornamental plants. They are native to tropical areas in eastern Africa and reach up to 6 to 12 feet tall and just as wide at maturity. |
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Hibiscus syriacus (Rose of Sharon, Shrub Althea, Syrian Ketmia, Korean Rose, Rose Mallow) This is a deciduous shrub that grows best in USDA hardiness zones 5-9 or Sunset growing zones 2-24 and H1. Native to eastern Asia, this species grows to 10-12 feet tall and 6 feet wide. This shrub is easily trained to a single-trunk tree or as an espalier or hedge. Blossoms are single, semi-double or double. This species is the national flower of South Korea and is considered invasive in the eastern, southeastern, and midwestern United States. |
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Hibiscus tiliaceus (Sea Hibiscus, Coast Cottonwood, Sea Rosemallow, Dhigga, Green Cottonwood, Mahoe, Hau, Beach Hibiscus) These plants are native to pantropical coastlines, and reach between 13 and 33 feet tall when they are mature. Flowers are bright yellow with deep red centers that deepen in color to orange and then red in the same day before falling from the plant. Leaves are heart shaped and green. Subspecies Hibiscus tiliaceus rubra produces red foliage. Best in USDA hardiness zones 10-12. |
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Hibiscus trionum (Flower-Of-An-Hour, Bladder Hibiscus, Bladder Ketmia, Bladder Weed, Puarangi, Venice Mallow, Modesty) This annual species is native to tropical and subtropical regions. It is generally considered weedy and has naturalized in North America. Plants can reach up to 20 inches tall, and produce white to yellow flowers with purple centers. This species is considered highly invasive in Washington and Oregon (United States). |
Caring for Hibiscus
Grow Hibiscus shrubs in springtime in full sun exposure; ideally, they appreciate between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day for the best blooms. When these flowers are grown in less light, they will not flower as profusely, though in warmer climates they do appreciate some afternoon shade. They can be grown either in-ground in the garden, in containers, or indoors. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 6.5 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants perform well in consistently moist soils. Withhold waterings in winter when the plant is dormant.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. To create a tree form, begin to trim off all growth below the desired canopy height when trees are young, and continue doing so throughout the life of the tree. These flowering tropical plants can survive in the landscape (in the proper growing zones) for decades before needing to be replaced.
Caring for Hibiscus in Containers
Hibiscus shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers, and are frequently seen growing as topiary or small trees in pots. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Hibiscus plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Caring for Hibiscus Indoors
Growing Hibiscus plants indoors allows for horticulturalists in cooler, non-tropical zones to appreciate these beautiful plants. Choose a space indoors that gets bright sunlight; around 6 hours is typically best for overall growth and flowering. If light is inadequate, consider adding a grow light. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Hibiscus plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot. These flowering tropical plants can survive indoors for between 5 and 10 years (on average) before needing to be replaced.
Harvesting Hibiscus
Hibiscus flowers are used for culinary purposes, to flavor drinks, teas, and preserves, to add color to salads, or eaten in candied form. Harvest the flowers when they are fully open, removing the flower from the calyx. Remove the stamen from the center, and place the petals in a bowl filled with water to rinse off any dirt or dust. Then, lay them out on a cookie cooling rack outside in a sunny area free of winds. Leave them there for three days to a week, checking each day to see if they have dried. Once they have fully dried, place them in an airtight container until ready to use them.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. To create a tree form, begin to trim off all growth below the desired canopy height when trees are young, and continue doing so throughout the life of the tree. These flowering tropical plants can survive in the landscape (in the proper growing zones) for decades before needing to be replaced.
Caring for Hibiscus in Containers
Hibiscus shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers, and are frequently seen growing as topiary or small trees in pots. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Hibiscus plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Caring for Hibiscus Indoors
Growing Hibiscus plants indoors allows for horticulturalists in cooler, non-tropical zones to appreciate these beautiful plants. Choose a space indoors that gets bright sunlight; around 6 hours is typically best for overall growth and flowering. If light is inadequate, consider adding a grow light. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Hibiscus plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot. These flowering tropical plants can survive indoors for between 5 and 10 years (on average) before needing to be replaced.
Harvesting Hibiscus
Hibiscus flowers are used for culinary purposes, to flavor drinks, teas, and preserves, to add color to salads, or eaten in candied form. Harvest the flowers when they are fully open, removing the flower from the calyx. Remove the stamen from the center, and place the petals in a bowl filled with water to rinse off any dirt or dust. Then, lay them out on a cookie cooling rack outside in a sunny area free of winds. Leave them there for three days to a week, checking each day to see if they have dried. Once they have fully dried, place them in an airtight container until ready to use them.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Propagation
Hibiscus can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Hibiscus shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Hibiscus by Cutting
Propagating Hibiscus by Seed
Propagating Hibiscus by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, a plastic bag and rubber band, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 4-6 inch softwood (green) portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip all but the top two leaves off. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about eight weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. This can be helped along by securing a plastic bag around the top of the pot with a rubber band to keep moisture in and temperatures high. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Hibiscus by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- Harvest your seeds.
- Hibiscus seeds have a hard coating that protects them, but this coating also makes it a little difficult to get them to germinate. Scarify them with sandpaper (or simply rub them against an abrasive surface). Then, soak them in lukewarm water overnight. Do this with as many seeds as you can; they will probably not all sow, and the ones that do will be of varying characteristics, especially if you are propagating a hybrid variety. The more seeds you plant, the more chances you will have to get the resulting shrub you want.
- Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-28 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Problems and Pests
Certain species of Hibiscus are considered invasive in some regions; see the species descriptions above for more information. Check with local authorities before planting. Hibiscus shrubs can be susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases in the garden:
- Spider Mites
- Scale
- Whiteflies
- Root Rot
- Leaf Spot
- Gray Mold
- Nematodes
- Mealybugs
Gallery
Videos
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All you need to know about growing Hibiscus shrubs.
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All about pruning!
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Propagating Hibiscus shrubs via cuttings.
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Hibiscus
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 363 - 364, Hibiscus