Hippeastrum

( hip - ee - AST - rum )

At-A-Glance Information

Also called Amaryllis, this genus includes species of perennials which grow from bulbs and need light shade in warm climates. These flowers will need regular waterings during their growth and bloom periods, and are available in single and double-bloom varieties. Flowers come in a range of colors, including reds, pinks, salmon, orange, cream-yellow, and white and can be striped or otherwise marked with contrasting colors. Use Hippeastrum as specimens, in pots, as members of cut flower gardens, or simply to add drama or color to mixed beds and borders. Take care when planting these beautiful flowers in the garden, as all plant parts are toxic to humans and pets if ingested.

Hippeastrum species and varietals

The genus Hippeastrum is a member of the plant family Amaryllaceae and includes 91 species. The genus name was derived from the Ancient Greek words ἱππεύς (hippeus), meaning 'mounted knight' and ἄστρον (astron), meaning 'star'. These flowers grow well in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 or Sunset growing zones 13, 15-17, 21-24, H1 and H2. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Hippeastrum aulicum (Lily of the Palace)
This species is epiphytic, growing on rocks and trees in its native range from Brazil to Paraguay in South America. Flowers produced are large and scarlet-colored, with green throats. There are usually four flowers held on each stem. Bloom time is between late summer and fall. The specific epithet 'aulicum' means 'princely'.

Hippeastrum calypratum (Amaryllis)
This species is native to Brazil, and produces light green leaves and greenish-white (often scented) flowers with protruding salmon-colored to pink stamens. Blooms appear in autumn, 2 to 3 per stem. Flowering stems reach up to 2 feet tall. This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 9-11.

Hippeastrum correiense (South American Amaryllis)
This species, native to Brazil, produces large bulbs and trumpet-shaped flowers. It was first described by Arthington Worsley in 1929, and now has many synonyms and is widely grown as a garden ornamental. This species is considered invasive in South Africa.

Hippeastrum cybister (Cybister Amaryllis, Spider Amaryllis)
This species is native to Argentina through Bolivia, and produces dark red, green, and white flowers with narrow petals in spring and summer. The species is dormant in fall, winter, and the beginning of spring each year. These plants were originally described by William Herbert and John Gilbert Baker.

Hippeastrum evansiae (Evan's Yellow Amaryllis)
This native species of Bolivia is rarely seen due to habitat destruction in its natural range. These flowers typically grow in hot, dry forested areas and prefer warm, dry winters. Otherwise, they are grown indoors or in greenhouses. Flowers are cream colored with yellow throats.

Hippeastrum miniatum (Amaryllis, Fire Lily, Dutch Amaryllis, Knight's Star Lily)
Native to Peru, this species is smaller than others in the genus, and produces vermillion flowers numbering up to six per stem. Leaves are green and strappy. Plants typically reach between 11 and 18 inches tall when in bloom. These plants grow naturally along river gorges in their native range.

Hippeastrum papilio (Butterfly Amaryllis)
Native to southern Brazil, these plants produce flowers that vary in color from white to creamy green, dark apple green and carmine, and often have maroon or purple markings and striations. These flowers were first collected in the 1960's and originally described by Pierfelice Ravenna in the 1970's.

Hippeastrum psitticinum (Hippeastrum psittacina) (Parrot Amaryllis, Parrot Flower)
This species is native to Brazil and produces strappy green foliage up to 2 feet tall. Four trumpet-shaped flowers are produced on each stem. Blooms are typically bright red and white, with red striping and greenish yellow throats. Petal margins are slightly wavy.

Hippeastrum striatum (Striped Barbados Lily, Striped Amaryllis)
This species is native to southern and eastern regions of Brazil. Flowers bloom on stems that hold between 2 and 4 blossoms, which are typically orange to orange-red with yellow to greenish centers. Plants reach about 2-3 feet tall at maturity when in bloom. This species is considered invasive in tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including Hawai'i, the Caribbean, the Caroline Islands, and Africa.

Hippeastrum reticulatum (Netted-Veined Amaryllis, Netted Amaryllis, Striped-Leaved Amaryllis)
This species is native to South America, and has exquisitely veined flower petals. Flowers are typically white to light pink with intricate striations of darker pink to magenta. Seeds are orange-red instead of black and paper-like (as in most other species in the genus).

Caring for Hippeastrum

Take care when planting these beautiful flowers in the garden, as all plant parts are toxic to humans and pets if ingested. Hippeastrum plants are typically purchased as blooming specimens around the holidays or as bulbs, though they can also be grown from seed. Choose a space in the landscape that receives partial sun (at least 4-6 hours daily, preferably in the morning). Plant starts or bulbs in fall; The bulb necks should be just at the soil surface level. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Increase watering during growth and bloom periods, but do not let the soil become soggy.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Divide infrequently. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants. Some plants may require staking or netting to remain upright, especially if they are located in an area that is windy. At the end of the growing season when foliage turns yellow and then brown and dies back, it can be removed. Hippeastrum flowers are perennial bulbs, meaning they will die back to the ground at the end of each growing season and re-sprout in the next. They can survive in the landscape for decades, and also produce bulbils that can be separated from the mother plant and replanted elsewhere, providing new plants for the garden indefinitely.

Caring for Hippeastrum in Containers
Growing Hippeastrum in containers is a popular trend for cool-area gardeners who love these flowers. They do not enjoy being disturbed once in their growing medium; digging them up each year at the end of the season is not recommended. If you are planting your Amaryllis in a container, choose one that is 6-8 inches in diameter and 8-10 inches deep. First fill the pot with well-draining rich, sandy potting mix amended with bone meal or superphosphate. Then, plant bulbs 2 inches apart, and leave 1.5-2 inches between them and the container walls. The upper third of the bulb should be sitting above the soil surface. Pat the soil down until it is firmed, and then keep soil barely moist until growth begins. When flowers fade, cut off the stems. Continue watering and until late in summertime, and then cut back. Allow leaves to dry and yellow, and then stop watering completely, allowing the plant to enter dormancy. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Caring for Hippeastrum Indoors
Hippeastrum, or Amaryllis, make wonderful houseplants. They grow well in a spot that receives bright indirect light. Choose a container with adequate drainage holes that is 6-8 inches in diameter and 8-10 inches deep. First fill the pot with well-draining rich, sandy potting mix amended with bone meal or superphosphate. Plant bulbs 2 inches apart, and leave 1.5-2 inches between them and the container walls. The upper third of the bulb should be sitting above the soil surface. Pat the soil down until it is firmed, and then keep soil barely moist until growth begins. Substrate should be well-draining and rich. Give these flowers a two to three month rest period in fall/winter, where they can be kept in a cool space and not receive water. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Harvesting Hippeastrum
Amaryllis flowers are popular as cut blooms in fresh flower arrangements and are commonly included in cut flower gardens. They are best harvested in the morning, after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Choose flower stems with buds that are colored, plump, and just beginning to soften or open. Cut flower stems at their base using sharp, clean shears or snips, remove the lower leaves from the stem, and drop them in a bucket of cool water. The vase life of Hippeastrum, or Amaryllis, freshly cut flowers is between 10 and 21 days.

Propagation

Hippeastrum flowers can be propagated either by division or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Amaryllis plant, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Hippeastrum by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. The seed heads on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
In either late winter or early springtime, get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-4 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Propagation of Hippeastrum By Bulb Division
The easiest way to propagate Hippeastrum is by removing their baby clones (bulbils) and replanting them where you'd like your new flowers to be. These bulbils are ready to be cut from their parent plant when they are at an early growth stage. This way, they will not pull too many nutrients from the original plant and end up damaging them. To propagate your Hippeastrum by bulbils, you'll need a clean trowel and a pot filled with peat moss. Once you've gathered your materials, follow these steps:

Loosen the soil around the bottom of your Hippeastrum plant where the keiki has formed. Using a clean, sharp blade, cut the mini plant away from its parent. Take care to not damage the pup or the parent plant with any nicks from your blade.
Plant your bulbil in your pot filled with peat moss and lightly moisten the soil, ensuring that adequate drainage is occurring. Place the container in an area that receives bright light and stays relatively warm.
Give the bulbil water every time the top inch or two of soil dry out, but don't saturate the soil. After a few weeks of this watering schedule, it will have produced enough of a root system to begin putting on real growth.

Problems and Pests

Certain species are considered invasive in some regions; see the species descriptions above for more information. Check with local authorities before planting. Hippeastrum plants can suffer from multiple disease and pest issues in the landscape, including: