Lagenaria

( la - guh - NAIR - ee - uh )

At-A-Glance Information

This small genus is native to western tropical Africa through Ethiopia and Tanzania, and produce gourd-bearing, vining herbaceous annual plants. Species are commonly called Bottle Gourd or Calabash Gourd. When harvested young, fruits can be cooked and used as vegetables, but these gourds are more commonly harvested when mature and then dried. They are typically used to make utensils, musical instruments, containers, and other vessels. Grow Lagenaria as a trellis plant or as a part of an edible or vegetable garden. Take care when consuming the fruits produced by Lagenaria plants, as when they are overly bitter and uncooked, can cause poisoning (in extreme cases). Never drink raw gourd juice.

Lagenaria Species and Varietals

The genus Lagenaria is a member of the plant family Cucurbitaceae, and includes just six species, only one of which is commonly cultivated (Lagenaria siceraria) in home gardens. The best growing zones for Lagenaria plants are USDA zones 2-11. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Lagenaria siceraria (Calabash, Bottle Gourd, White-Flowered Gourd, Long Melon, Birdhouse Gourd, New Guinea Bean, New Guinea Butter Bean, Tasmania Bean, Opo Squash, Swan Gourd, Cuchara, Pomoxcat, Tecomate, Bag, Cabaco, Cajombre, White Pumpkin)
This species is cultivated for its large, uniquely-shaped fruits, which are harvested young (consumed as a vegetable) or when they are mature (for non-culinary uses). Fresh fruits have light green skin and white flesh. Flowers bloom at night, and are white. 90-120 days to maturity.

Caring for Lagenaria

Lagenaria, or Bottle Gourd, plants are typically grown from seed; they are not widely available as specimens from nurseries. They need a long growing season, so before planting, make sure that your climate gets between 90 and 120 days of warm weather. If direct-sowing seeds, space them 2-3 feet apart and an inch deep into the soil. If you will be transplanting seeds, start them about 3-4 weeks prior to the last frost of your area, and transplant them when nighttime temperatures stay above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. These are tropical vines which love heat and full sun; ideally, they should be getting between 6 and 8 hours of direct sun each day for best harvests. Plant Lagenaria after the last frost of your area has passed when temperatures have risen to at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 6.0 and 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants appreciate consistently moist soil. Water deeply and regularly, especially during the active growing, flowering, and fruiting seasons in spring and summertime.

Lagenaria are fast-growing vines, and will require support as they increase in size. Using a trellis will help to keep fruits off of the ground, improve air circulation, and make harvesting easier. Pinch plants back every so often once they reach 6-8 feet long to encourage a more branching structure to emerge; this will encourage the plant to produce more flowers and fruits. If plants are flowering but not fruiting, hand pollinate them. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any point during the active growing season. These vines are annuals, and are typically removed at the end of the growing season and composted. New plants are grown each year to replace old ones.

Harvesting Lagenaria
Take care when consuming the fruits produced by Lagenaria plants, as when they are overly bitter and uncooked, they can cause poisoning (in extreme cases). Never drink raw gourd juice. Lagenaria fruits can either be harvested when they are young (between 6 and 12 inches long) or mature (skin will harden and turn yellowish). To harvest, simply cut the gourd from its attachment with a clean, sharp knife or garden shears. Young plants are commonly boiled, steamed, fried, or added to soups or stews. The fruits have a mild, pleasant taste similar to a combination between a Cucumber and a Zucchini. When harvesting mature fruits, make sure to leave some stem attached to prevent disease and moisture from entering the gourd's interior. Mature Bottle Gourds are placed in a cool, dark, dry area with good ventilation after harvesting. They are left to harden for a few months, turned every few days to ensure proper curing. Monitor during the curing process for any signs of decay and remove affected gourds promptly to avoid spread of mold and disease. The gourd is considered to be adequately dried when the seeds rattle inside when it is shaken, and the gourd feels lightweight for its size. The outer skin will be dry and hard. Once fully cured, the bottles can be cleaned with sandpaper, and then stained or painted if desired. Applying a protective finish can help preserve the gourd.

Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.

Propagation

Lagenaria vining plants are best propagated through harvesting and sowing seeds. To propagate your Lagenaria, follow the instructions below.

Propagating Lagenaria by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. The seed heads on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
Get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-6 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.