Laurus

( LORE - uss )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of evergreen shrubs and trees contains species that need full sun to partial shade and moderate amounts of water to perform well in the garden. Foliage is green and can be used to add flavor to dishes, though they are not technically edible. Laurus shrubs make great background hedges, screening plants, or specimen trees and can be grown either in-ground or in containers. They are also popular topiary subjects in formal gardens, and can be grown as members of food forests or edible/herb gardens. Take care when planting these shrubs and trees in the landscape, as leaves, berries, and other plant parts can be mildly toxic to pets if ingested.

Laurus Species and Varietals

The genus Laurus includes just three species and is the type genus member of the plant family Lauraceae. It is closely related to Avocado, Cinnamon, Camphor, California Bay Laurel, and Spicebush. The best growing zones for Laurel USDA hardiness zones 8-11, though this varies somewhat depending on the species cultivated. For more information, see the species descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Laurus azorica (Azores Laurel, Macaronesian Laurel)
These small evergreen trees produce large, dark green leaves and cream-colored fragrant flowers. These plants are native to the Azores. Trees typically reach up to 49 feet tall at maturity, and have broad, rounded, dense canopies, making them great for shade. Flowers are highly fragrant and creamy white to pale yellow, blooming in springtime. This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 8-10.

Laurus nobilis (Bay Laurel, Sweet Bay, True Laurel, Grecian Laurel, Laurel Tree)
These plants have aromatic foliage that is used in cooking, and reach 12-40 feet tall and just as wide. Leaves are dark green, and springtime flowers are cream, blooming in clusters. Bay Laurel trees and shrubs grow well in USDA hardiness zones 8-10, and thrive in regions where winter temperatures remain above 15-20 degrees Fahrenheit. In cooler regions, grow these plants in greenhouses or containers that can be brought indoors over the cooler months of the year.

'Angustifolia'
Elongated, narrow foliage with spicy flavor.

'Aurea'
Chartreuse new foliage with highly aromatic leaves. To 12-15 feet tall and 4-6 feet wide.

'Baby Bay' ('Bay Junior')
To 4-6 feet tall; grown as a shrub. Ideal for small gardens and topiary.

'Little Ragu'
To 6-8 feet tall in 10 years, with dense branching habit. Good for containers and smaller gardens.

'Saratoga'
Hybrid between L. nobilis and L. azorica. To 20-25 feet with larger, round leaves. Laurus Psyllid resistant.

'Undulata' ('Crispa')
With wavy leaf margins; to 12 feet tall and half as wide.

Laurus novocanariensis (Canary Laurel, Canary Islands Laurel, Madeira Laurel)
These large shrubs or trees produce aromatic, dark green foliage and cream-white fragrant flowers in November through April in the plant's native range (Madeira and the Canary Islands). Fruits that follow blooms are dark purple to black. They have dense canopies as trees, reaching up to 65 feet tall at maturity. Canary Laurel grows well in USDA hardiness zones 9-10.

Caring for LAurUs

Take care when planting these shrubs and trees in the landscape, as plant parts can be toxic to pets if ingested. Plant Bay Laurel in full sun to partial shade (these shrubs and trees need at least six hours of sunlight each day). In hotter or more dry climates, these trees can tolerate some partial shade, especially in the late afternoon hours. If planting as an individual tree or specimen, space 20 feet or more from other plants and trees. If growing Bay Laurel as a privacy screen or hedge, they can be planted about 5-8 feet apart. Ensure that soil is well-draining with a neutral to slightly acidic pH (between 6.0 and 7.5). Amend soil before planting in the garden with organic matter to improve soil texture and nutrients as well as to increase drainage. Apply a thick layer of mulch after planting to suppress weed growth, manage soil temperature, and increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. When these trees are mature, they can tolerate some drought. However, it is best to continue to give larger trees deep waterings once or twice a week in the warmest months of the year. It is best if soil does not completely dry out between waterings.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Regularly prune Sweet Bay trees and shrubs to maintain an attractive shape and size for the landscape. Pruning will encourage a bushier growing habit and can also allow more sunlight to reach the inside of the plant, and is best done in late spring or early summer. To rejuvenate plants that have been damaged, cut back hard in late wintertime. These plants will typically grow as large, bushy shrubs and may need some pruning when they are young to take on a tree form. They can also be sheared into topiary or privacy hedges if desired. In colder climates, these trees will need some winter protection from freezing temperatures. Using frost cloths or burlap is suggested (especially with younger trees), and mulching heavily around the base of the tree can help insulate the roots from cold temperatures, as well. These trees are incredibly long-lived additions to the landscape, surviving for 50-100 years before needing to be replaced.

Caring for Laurus in Containers
Laurus trees and shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material, sand, and perlite topped with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Laurus plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Harvesting Laurus
Laurus shrubs and trees are valued for their aromatic foliage that is commonly used to flavor dishes. They have an earthy, herbal flavor with notes of tea, menthol, and floral undertones, somewhat similar to Oregano or Thyme. Bay Laurel is a cut-and-come-again plant, and mature, dark green leaves are hand-picked or snipped individually. The best time to harvest is in the middle of summertime, after the tree has gotten a good deep watering. This is when the leaves are packed with the highest quantity of essential oils. Avoid harvesting from very young trees; wait until at least their second year in the garden when they are more established, and do not remove more than 30% of the plant's foliage at any one time to avoid shocking it. The best time of the day to harvest is in the morning, when leaves retain their aromatic qualities best. Fresh leaves can be wrapped and stored in the refrigerator for two weeks. They can last much longer, however, if dried and stored in a cool, dark, dry cabinet. Dried leaves have a slightly more concentrated flavor, while fresh leaves can add a brighter, more subtle taste. To dry Bay leaves, spread them out in a dry, shaded area for between 1 and 2 weeks. To use Bay Leaves, simply add them to dishes while they are cooking, and remove them before serving. They are not toxic, but their tough, leathery texture doesn't soften during cooking, and swallowing one whole can pose a choking hazard or potentially scratch or tear the digestive tract.

Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.

Propagation

Laurus shrubs can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub or tree, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Laurus by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 4-6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.

Propagating Laurus by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your berries. Laurel produces olive-like fruit that will turn dark purple to black when they are ripe (this will take about 6-9 months). Ripe berries will feel a little soft when squeezed. Take them off of the plant, and place them in a single layer on a clean, dry plate or tray. Place the tray in a warm, ventilated area to dry out. Once they are completely dry, crush them to get the seeds out. Separate the seeds from the flesh, and store them in an airtight container until you are ready to plant them.
Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination can take up to 6 months from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.