Lavandula
( lav - VAN - dew - luh )
At-A-Glance InformationLavandula, commonly called Lavender, is a genus filled with evergreen shrubs that need full sun and moderate water to perform well in the landscape. The flowers will attract bees, birds and butterflies to the garden. Fragrant foliage is usually green, yellow green or grey-green, and flowers can come in a range of colors including lavender, purple, pink or white. They are native to the Mediterranean region, Canary Islands, and Madeira. Great as informal hedges, edging, as an active participant in herb gardens, or in full-sun borders. They also do well when grown in pots.
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Lavandula Species and Varietals
The genus Lavandula includes 47 species and is a member of the plant family Lamiaceae. These plants are closely related to those in the Salvia, Thyme, and Oregano genera. Lavender growing zones vary depending on the species. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Lavandula x allardii (Allard's Lavender, Allardi Lavender) These shrubs grow best in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 12-24. This hybrid is a natural hybrid between Lavandula dentata and Lavandula latifolia and is commonly sold as Lavandula x heterophylla. It has an open growth habit to 3 to 3.5 feet tall and a little less wide. Leaves are grey-green and flowers are a bright violet-blue. Blooms appear in mid- to late summertime. This hybrid is tolerant of heat and humidity, and it has a slightly medicinal scent. Cultivar 'Meerlo' produces variegated cream and grey-green foliage. |
Lavandula angustifolia (Lavandula officinalis, Lavandula vera) (English Lavender, True Lavender, Garden Lavender, Narrow-Leaved Lavender)
This species of Lavender grows in USDSA hardiness zones 5-9 or Sunset growing zones 2-24 and is native to the mountains of southern Europe. The shrub has a sweet fragrance and is commonly used for sachets and perfumes. It is also the most hardy and widely-planted species. Most varieties are 8 inches to 2 feet tall and wide. Leaves can be grey green or silvery grey, and flowers come in white, pink, lavender-blue and purple. This species will bloom from early to midsummer, though some varieties have repeat blooms in late summer or fall. Some varieties will self-seed in ideal growing conditions. Cultivars are listed and described below:
This species of Lavender grows in USDSA hardiness zones 5-9 or Sunset growing zones 2-24 and is native to the mountains of southern Europe. The shrub has a sweet fragrance and is commonly used for sachets and perfumes. It is also the most hardy and widely-planted species. Most varieties are 8 inches to 2 feet tall and wide. Leaves can be grey green or silvery grey, and flowers come in white, pink, lavender-blue and purple. This species will bloom from early to midsummer, though some varieties have repeat blooms in late summer or fall. Some varieties will self-seed in ideal growing conditions. Cultivars are listed and described below:
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'Alba'
This variety grows 1.5-2 feet tall and wide and has white flowers and grey-green foliage. |
'Blue Cushion'
This shrub reaches 1.5 feet tall and 2 feet wide, with profuse, bright purple blooms and green foliage. |
'Buena Vista'
1.5-2 feet tall and wide, with deep violet-blue fragrant flowers that have a repeat bloom. |
'Compacta'
This variety reaches 1.5 feet tall and wide, and is great for a short hedge plant. Flowers are light purple, and foliage is grey-green. |
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'Hidcote'
1.5-2 feet tall with deep violet flowers and medium green foliage, this plant has many of hybrids, such as 'Hidcote Blue' (deep blue flowers) and taller 'Hidcote Superior'. |
'Jean Davis'
This popular variety grows 1.5-2 feet tall and wide and has pale lilac-pink flowers and grey-green leaves. |
'Lady'
This variety reaches 1-1.5 feet tall and wide, and has grey-green foliage and lavender-blue flowers. Can be grown from seed. |
'Martha Roderick'
Compact plant 1.5-2 feet tall and wide with grey foliage and profuse bright violet-blue flowers from late spring to early summer. |
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'Melissa'
This variety is compact, reaching 1.5 feet tall and wide, with pink flowers. Foliage is grey-green. Flowers will fade to white in bright, hot sunlight. |
'Munstead'
This plant grows to 1.5 feet tall and 2 feet wide, with bright lavender-blue flowers and green foliage. Blooms over a long period and makes a great low hedge. |
'Rosea'
This variety grows 1.5-2 feet tall and wide and has mauve flowers and light green foliage. |
'Thumbelina Leigh'
Very compact plant reaching just 6 inches tall and a foot wide. Flowers are bright violet-blue, and rise above the foliage clump. |
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Lavandula canariensis (Canary Island Lavender) This species of Lavender grows well in USDA hardiness zones 9b-11. Leaves are somewhat fern-like and light green, flowers are dark lavender-blue. Blooms from early spring to late fall. Does not do well with hard pruning; remove faded bloom spikes to keep it looking clean. Individual plants can reach up to 3-4 feet tall and just as wide at maturity. |
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Lavandula dentata (French Lavender, Toothed Lavender, Fringed Lavender) This species of Lavender grows in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 12-24. Plants reach 3-4 feet tall and 4-6 feet wide, with narrow grey-green leaves and purple flowers. Blooms are set on short rounded spikes that are topped with upright bracts. This species has a long flowering season from spring through summer (can be year-round in milder climates). Cultivars include 'Alba' (with white flowers), 'Royal Crown' (with vibrant dark purple flower spikes and a compact habit), and 'Goodwin Creek Grey' (with silver-grey foliage and lavender blooms). This species is considered an invasive weed in Australia and regions of Spain. |
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Lavandula x heterophylla (Sweet Lavender) Best in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 12-24, this hybrid species originated in the wild in the south of France, and is most likely a cross between Lavandula dentata and Lavandula angustifolia. Commonly confused with Lavandula x allardii. Grows to 1.5-2 feet tall and has violet flowers with a whorl of blossoms below the main flower spike. Blooms from midsummer and continues through fall. Somewhat cold-hardy. |
Lavandula x intermedia (Lavandin, Hedge Lavender)
This species grows in USDA hardiness zones 5-9 or Sunset growing zones 4-24 and is a group of sterile hybrids. These plants are frequently cultivated for use in the perfume and soap industries for adding fragrance to products. Plants are tolerant of both heat and humidity. Cultivars are listed and described below.
This species grows in USDA hardiness zones 5-9 or Sunset growing zones 4-24 and is a group of sterile hybrids. These plants are frequently cultivated for use in the perfume and soap industries for adding fragrance to products. Plants are tolerant of both heat and humidity. Cultivars are listed and described below.
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'Abrialii'
This variety gets to 2.5 feet tall and 3 feet wide, with grey-green leaves and dark violet-blue flowers. Great for drying. |
'Dutch' ('Hortensis')
Reaches 3 feet tall and 2-2.5 feet wide, with gray foliage and blue-violet flower spikes. |
'Fred Boutin'
This variety reaches 3-4 feet tall and wide, and has dense, silvery grey foliage and violet-blue flowers. |
'Grosso'
Very fragrant 2.5 foot tall and wide plant, with silvery foliage and violet-blue flowers with dark calyxes. Repeat bloom in late summer. Great for drying. |
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'Provence'
2 feet tall and 3 feet wide, with fragrant light violet flowers. Dries well. Good hedge plant. |
'Silver Edge'
2.5 feet tall and just as wide, gray-green leaves edged in white and lavender-blue flowers. |
'White Spikes'
2.5 feet tall and wide, with silvery leaves and white flowers with green calyxes. Blooms summer through fall. Gets woody in maturity. |
Lavandula lanata (Wooly Lavender)
These plants grow best in zones 4-24 and bloom in mid- to late summer. Plants in this species typically reach a bit over three feet tall, and have silvery, wooly hairs on foliage. Flowers are deep purple and are held on spikes, giving off a strong lavender scent. Hardy in mild and coastal areas, down to 23 degrees Fahrenheit. The two plants listed here are crosses between parents Lavandula lanata and Lavandula angustifolia.
These plants grow best in zones 4-24 and bloom in mid- to late summer. Plants in this species typically reach a bit over three feet tall, and have silvery, wooly hairs on foliage. Flowers are deep purple and are held on spikes, giving off a strong lavender scent. Hardy in mild and coastal areas, down to 23 degrees Fahrenheit. The two plants listed here are crosses between parents Lavandula lanata and Lavandula angustifolia.
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'Lisa Marie'
Compact plant reaching 12-15 inches tall and 18 inches to 2 feet wide. Leaves are silvery, but not wooly. Deep violet flowers with white bases form on short spikes. |
'Richard Grey'
This hybrid reaches 15 inches tall and just as wide, with dense foliage in silver-grey tones. Short spikes carry vivid violet blossoms. |
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Lavandula latifolia (Lavandula spica) (Spike Lavender, Broadleaf Lavender, Portuguese Lavender, Broadleaved Lavender) This species of Lavender grows best in USDA hardiness zones 6-9 or Sunset growing zones 4-24 and is compact, reaching just 3 feet tall and 1.5 feet wide at maturity. Plants have a rich, camphor-like scent. Leaves are grey-green and flower stems are long and slender. Flowers range from mauve to violet blue with wooly grey calyxes tipped with violet. Blooms appear in late summertime. |
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Lavandula minutolii (Green Fernleaf Lavender, Minutoli Lavender) Native to the Canary Islands, this species is best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 14-24. Gets to 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide, with green foliage and tiny bright blue flowers that bloom from the stems. Blooms appear summer through fall. This species is very tolerant of heat and humidity and takes pruning well. |
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Lavandula multifida (Fernleaf Lavender, Egyptian Lavender, French Lace Lavender) Best in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 zones 16-24, this species has a sprawling habit to 1.5 feet tall and 2-3 feet across. Foliage is grey-green to silver and flowers are deep blue, blooming on wiry stems held 10-14 inches above the foliage mound. Blooms spring through fall, but can continue year-round in mild climates. Remove spent flower stems to keep it clean. Scent is strong and medicinal. |
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Lavandula pedunculata (Spanish Lavender, French Lavender) This species is known for its top tuft of two or three narrow petals that emerge from flowering heads. It grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7-9. Plants are native to Iberia, Morocco, and western Turkey, and form bushy evergreen shrubs with narrow, grey-green foliage and dark purple flowers. This species is considered invasive in Australia. |
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Lavandula pinnata (Fernleaf Lavender, Jagged Lavender) This species of Lavender is native to southern Madeira and the Canary Islands. It reaches up to 2 feet tall, and produces downy foliage and purple flowers that bloom between late spring and summertime. Fernleaf Lavender grows well in USDA hardiness zones 9-11. This species is considered weedy due to self-seeding. |
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Lavandula pubescens (Downy Lavender) This species is native to the Mediterranean through the western Arabian Peninsula, and forms an erect, branching shrub. Foliage is hairy, and flowers are small and light purple. Individual plants can reach up to between 1.5 and 2.5 feet tall and wide when mature. These plants are used in traditional medicine practices in Yemen. Downy Lavender grows well in USDA hardiness zones 9-11. |
Lavandula stoechas (Spanish Lavender, Butterfly Lavender, Topped Lavender, French Lavender, Rabbit Ears)
This species of Lavender grows best in zones 4-24 and grows to about 1.5-3 feet tall and wide. Leaves are grey or grey-green and flowers are relatively small and dark-colored. Top bracts are lighter. Blossoms open in four vertical rows first, then the rest of the flowers bloom. Flowers from spring through summer. This is a very drought resistant species, and seeds profusely. It is considered to be invasive in Australia, regions of Europe, and areas of the United States with Mediterranean climates. (California). Cultivars are listed and described below:
This species of Lavender grows best in zones 4-24 and grows to about 1.5-3 feet tall and wide. Leaves are grey or grey-green and flowers are relatively small and dark-colored. Top bracts are lighter. Blossoms open in four vertical rows first, then the rest of the flowers bloom. Flowers from spring through summer. This is a very drought resistant species, and seeds profusely. It is considered to be invasive in Australia, regions of Europe, and areas of the United States with Mediterranean climates. (California). Cultivars are listed and described below:
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'Hazel'
This variety has grey-green foliage and dark purple flowers with violet bracts. Heaviest bloom in spring, rebloom in fall. |
'Kew Red'
3-4 feet tall and wide, with aromatic grey-green foliage. Flowers are reddish purple and bracts are pink. Blooms in spring and fall. |
'Otto Quast'
2 feet tall, 2.5-3.5 feet wide, with maroon flowers and red-purple bracts. Green to grey-green leaves. |
'Ruffles Series'
This group of Spanish Lavender grow to 2 feet tall and just as wide. |
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'Willow Vale'
Vigorous upright habit to 1.5 feet tall and wide. Grey green leaves are delicate, and flowers are violet-blue with bluish-purple bracts. |
'Wings of Night'
Profuse blooms, with maroon flowers and red-purple bracts. 2 feet tall, 3.5 feet wide. Green to grey-green leaves. |
'Winter Bee'
2 feet tall and about as wide with grey-green foliage and dark purple flowers with lavender bracts. Blooms appear in early spring. |
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Lavandula viridis (Green Lavender, Yellow Lavender, White Lavender) Grows best in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 12-24 and reaches 2-3 feet wide and just as tall. Foliage is bright green and pine-scented. Flowers are white or cream with bracts in cream, light yellow, chartreuse or pale green. It is closely related to Spanish Lavender, and crosses between the two have produced plants with flower and bract colors in white, cream, yellow, shrimp pink, salmon pink, magenta, rose, red-violet, blue-violet and varying shades of green. |
Caring for Lavandula
Plant Lavender shrubs in a space in the landscape that receives full sun; ideally, they appreciate between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day for the best blooms. Ensure that soil is well-draining and has a pH of between 6.7 and 7.3 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, Lavender is a very drought-tolerant addition to the garden, able to get by on rainwater alone for much of the year with supplemental irrigation during extended periods of drought.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Do not over-fertilize Lavender plants, as they will become leggy with uneven growth and few flowers. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Shear back by a third to a half every year immediately after blooms fade to keep a bushy habit and avoid the center of the plant becoming 'bald'. Plants can tend to become woody and open in the center with maturity; when this happens, remove a few of the oldest branches in the middle and remove more of them as you see fit once new growth begins to fill in.
Caring for Lavandula in Containers
Lavender shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Lavender plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Harvesting Lavandula
Lavender plants are commonly harvested for their fragrant, colorful flowering stems, that can be used in cut flower arrangements, or in crafts, cooking, or to process for essential oils. Lavender flowers have a fresh, delicate floral scent with woody or balsamic/camphor undertones. They can add a delicate, floral taste to dishes and impart herbal, citrus, and mint undertones. When used properly, it pairs well with dairy, berries, citrus, and is an ingredient in the popular spice blend Herbs de Provence. Generally, Lavender flowers are able to be harvested when they begin blooming. If harvesting for essential oil, do so when the flowers on most spikes on the plant are about 1/3 to 1/2 open. For dried bundles, sachets, or other crafts, harvest when most of the flowers on the stem are open. Harvesting at this stage will ensure that blooms remain intact and retain their color and fragrance when dried. For culinary purposes, harvest flowering stems when they are fully open and their flavor is most pronounced and aromatic.
Harvest Lavender plants in the morning after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. The oils are most concentrated at this time of day. Using sharp pruners or shears, cut the stems just above the woody part of the plant, leaving a few inches of green growth still attached. Stems should be 8-12 inches long for easy hanging or arranging. Fresh cut Lavender for flower arrangements can be dropped into a bucket of cool water and kept in a cool, dark area with good ventilation until ready to use. If drying the lavender, bundle the stems together after harvesting is complete using twine. Ensure the bundles are tight enough that the stems won't slip out as they hang, but not so tight that flowers or stems are crushed. Smaller bundles will dry more evenly and prevent the risk of mold forming during the drying process. Hang the bundles in a dark, dry area with good airflow upside down. Leave them for 2-4 weeks. Once the flowers are dried, they will feel crisp and the stems will snap easily. Once the flowers have been dried, bundles can be put out as they are for rustic décor, or they can be further processed. Crumbled dry flowers can be put in airtight glass containers in a cool, dark, dry cupboard for storage, made into sachets, or added to tea or spice blends. Properly dried and stored culinary lavender can stay good for between 6 and 12 months. Stems will retain their fragrance for between 1 and 3 years.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Do not over-fertilize Lavender plants, as they will become leggy with uneven growth and few flowers. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Shear back by a third to a half every year immediately after blooms fade to keep a bushy habit and avoid the center of the plant becoming 'bald'. Plants can tend to become woody and open in the center with maturity; when this happens, remove a few of the oldest branches in the middle and remove more of them as you see fit once new growth begins to fill in.
Caring for Lavandula in Containers
Lavender shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Lavender plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Harvesting Lavandula
Lavender plants are commonly harvested for their fragrant, colorful flowering stems, that can be used in cut flower arrangements, or in crafts, cooking, or to process for essential oils. Lavender flowers have a fresh, delicate floral scent with woody or balsamic/camphor undertones. They can add a delicate, floral taste to dishes and impart herbal, citrus, and mint undertones. When used properly, it pairs well with dairy, berries, citrus, and is an ingredient in the popular spice blend Herbs de Provence. Generally, Lavender flowers are able to be harvested when they begin blooming. If harvesting for essential oil, do so when the flowers on most spikes on the plant are about 1/3 to 1/2 open. For dried bundles, sachets, or other crafts, harvest when most of the flowers on the stem are open. Harvesting at this stage will ensure that blooms remain intact and retain their color and fragrance when dried. For culinary purposes, harvest flowering stems when they are fully open and their flavor is most pronounced and aromatic.
Harvest Lavender plants in the morning after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. The oils are most concentrated at this time of day. Using sharp pruners or shears, cut the stems just above the woody part of the plant, leaving a few inches of green growth still attached. Stems should be 8-12 inches long for easy hanging or arranging. Fresh cut Lavender for flower arrangements can be dropped into a bucket of cool water and kept in a cool, dark area with good ventilation until ready to use. If drying the lavender, bundle the stems together after harvesting is complete using twine. Ensure the bundles are tight enough that the stems won't slip out as they hang, but not so tight that flowers or stems are crushed. Smaller bundles will dry more evenly and prevent the risk of mold forming during the drying process. Hang the bundles in a dark, dry area with good airflow upside down. Leave them for 2-4 weeks. Once the flowers are dried, they will feel crisp and the stems will snap easily. Once the flowers have been dried, bundles can be put out as they are for rustic décor, or they can be further processed. Crumbled dry flowers can be put in airtight glass containers in a cool, dark, dry cupboard for storage, made into sachets, or added to tea or spice blends. Properly dried and stored culinary lavender can stay good for between 6 and 12 months. Stems will retain their fragrance for between 1 and 3 years.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Propagation
Lavandula can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Lavandula by Cutting
Propagating Lavandula by Seed
Propagating Lavandula by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- In mid- to late summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch softwood portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Lavandula by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a ziploc bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- Lavender seeds need to be cold-stratified before they will germinate successfully. To do this, place your seeds in a light soil mixture that is moistened inside a plastic ziploc bag. Leave them in your refrigerator for between 3 and 6 weeks. Then, take them out.
- Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Problems and Pests
Certain Lavender species are considered invasive in some regions; see the species descriptions above for more information. Check with local authorities before planting. Lavender is usually resistant to pests and disease, though it can suffer from the following if conditions are right:
- Aphids
- Spider Mites
- Powdery Mildew
- Fungal Diseases
Gallery
Videos
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How to grow Lavender plants.
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A review of the most popular Lavender varieties.
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How to troubleshoot your Lavender problems.
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Learn the secrets of growing beautiful Lavender plants.
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How to prune your Lavender shrubs.
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How to identify a Lavender plant.
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All about English Lavenders.
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How to propagate your Lavender plant using cuttings.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 401 - 404, Lavandula