Ligularia
( lig - yew - LAY - ree - uh )
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At-A-Glance InformationNative to East Asia, this genus includes species of perennial flowering plants which need partial shade and ample amounts of water to perform well in the landscape. They are commonly called Leopard Plants or Ragworts, and form three foot wide clumps of basal foliage from which tall inflorescences of yellow or orange daisy-form flowers emerge on spikes or terminal inflorescences. Ligularia makes a great choice for planting along the sides of pools or streambeds, or in bog gardens. They can do well in mixed beds and borders, in bioswales or rain gardens, or be grown in containers.
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Ligularia Species and Varietals
The genus Ligularia is a member of the plant family Asteraceae and includes between 120 and 140 distinct species. The genus name is derived from the Latin word for 'strap', referring to the shape of the ray florets, and is closely related to Senecio. Ligularia grows best in USDA hardiness zones 4-8 or Sunset growing zones 1-9 and 14-17, though this varies somewhat depending on the species. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Ligularia dentata (Summer Ragwort, Leopardplant, Golden Groundsel, Bigleaf Ligularia) Grown primarily for its handsome foliage, this species of Ligularia sends up 3-5 foot tall stems in summer and early fall that are topped with branching clusters of orange-yellow daisy flowers. This species generally grows well in USDA hardiness zones 3-9, though developed cultivars have various ideal climate ranges. Cultivars include 'Othello' (USDA zones 3-8, with rounded, purple to chocolate leaves and orange-yellow blooms), 'Desdemona' (USDA zones 3-8, bronze-purple foliage and vibrant orange-yellow flowers), 'Pandora' (compact with ruffled foliage), and Britt-Marie Crawford (USDA zones 4-9, glossy chocolate leaves and bright gold-orange daisies). This species can spread in gardens and escape cultivation to naturalize in native landscapes, but is not considered invasive. |
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Ligularia fischeri (Gomchwi, 곰취, Fischer's Ragwort, Fischer's Leopard Plant, Korean Mountain Vegetable) This species is native to east Asia and forms a basal clump of kidney-shaped green leaves, reaching up to 2-3 feet tall when in bloom with a spread of 3-4 feet. Stem leaves are smaller than other species in the genus and flowers are yellow. These plants are cultivated crops in their native range, where they are consumed as pickled, blanched, cooked leaf vegetables. Leaves are also used as wraps for barbequed meats. Cultivars include 'Korak' (with magnificent, heat-tolerant foliage), 'Cheju Charmer' (with massive underground roots), 'Sammany' (an agricultural cultivar with purple hairless stems), and 'Damogy' (agricultural variety developed for disease resistance and increased yield). |
Ligularia spp. Hybrids (Hybrid Ligularia, Hybrid Leopard Plant)
This group of cultivars was developed through selective breeding to enhance leaf size, color, disease resistance, or habit. Cultivars are listed and described below:
This group of cultivars was developed through selective breeding to enhance leaf size, color, disease resistance, or habit. Cultivars are listed and described below:
'Green Tractor
(Tractor Seat) Green leaves can reach up to 16 inches wide. Golden flowers. |
'Osiris Café Noir'
To 20 inches tall and wide, with serrated leaves that age from purple to bronze to green. |
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Ligularia sibirica (Siberian Ligularia, Leopard Plant, Siberian Rocket) This is the type species for the genus and is currently disappearing from many of the places in Europe where it is native, due to the draining of wetlands and invasive plants outcompeting them. Flowers are yellow and form at the top of a tall spike in springtime. Individual plants reach up to 3-6 feet tall and 1.5 to 3 feet wide. Bests in USDA hardiness zones 3-8. |
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Ligularia przewalskii (Przewalski's Leopardplant, Przewalski's Golden Ray) This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 3-9 and is native to China and Mongolia, where it grows in mountainous areas around streams, margins, and on grassy slopes. Foliage is deeply lobed and flowering stems are deep purple, reaching 6 feet in height. Flowers are yellow and form in spires at stem tips in summertime. |
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Ligularia stenocephala (Leopard Plant, Narrow-Headed Leopard Plant, Golden Ray) This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 4-8 or Sunset growing zones A2, A3, 1-9 and 14-17. Individual plants reach up to 3-5 feet tall and 2-4 feet wide, with green basal foliage and impressive spikes of bright yellow-gold flowers. Cultivars of this species include 'The Rocket' (pictured, with irregularly toothed leaves to 1 foot tall and flower spikes to 4-6 feet), 'Little Rocket' (To 2-3 feet tall with dense flower spikes, great for containers), and 'Bottle Rocket' (To 20-24 in. tall and wide). |
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Caring for Ligularia
Ligularia, or Ragwort, does well in a sheltered, somewhat humid space in the landscape that receives full shade to partial shade. Morning or dappled sun exposure will give plants the best appearance and blooms, including better foliage color in dark or variegated-leaf varieties. When these plants are grown in too much sun, their leaves will develop sunburn and flowers will be droopy. Afternoon shade during the warmest hours of the day is critical to keeping plants at their healthiest. Ligularia prefers soil to be well-draining, fertile, and have a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain soil temperatures, and increase soil moisture retention. Water new plants regularly. At maturity, these plants prefer to be in moist soil and do well in depressed areas of the landscape, bioswales, or rain gardens. If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with a application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. If soils are particularly poor in nutrients, another compost application can be completed in early summertime. Prune these plants to remove spent flower spikes or inflorescences, and remove any dead, damaged, or diseased foliage as it appears. Clumps of plants can be left alone to multiply for years; only divide Ligularias in early spring for propagation or when the performance of flowers is in noticeable decline. For instructions on how to properly divide Ligularia plants, see the Propagation section below. Ligularia plants are considered long-lived herbaceous perennials, and can survive in the garden for decades. individual plants will form clumps, which can be divided over time, providing new plants for the garden indefinitely.
Caring for Ligularia in Containers
Ligularia shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Leopard Plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Harvesting Ligularia
The only species that is cultivated for its edible foliage is Ligularia fischeri. It is typically harvested in early springtime when the plant is pushing out young, tender new growth. Using sharp, clean shears or a knife, cut the young stalks individually near the base of the plant. Avoid taking the older, tougher leaves which can become bitter and unpalatable. Young leaves can be eaten fresh as a green or blanched and dried for later use in soups or teas.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with a application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. If soils are particularly poor in nutrients, another compost application can be completed in early summertime. Prune these plants to remove spent flower spikes or inflorescences, and remove any dead, damaged, or diseased foliage as it appears. Clumps of plants can be left alone to multiply for years; only divide Ligularias in early spring for propagation or when the performance of flowers is in noticeable decline. For instructions on how to properly divide Ligularia plants, see the Propagation section below. Ligularia plants are considered long-lived herbaceous perennials, and can survive in the garden for decades. individual plants will form clumps, which can be divided over time, providing new plants for the garden indefinitely.
Caring for Ligularia in Containers
Ligularia shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Leopard Plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Harvesting Ligularia
The only species that is cultivated for its edible foliage is Ligularia fischeri. It is typically harvested in early springtime when the plant is pushing out young, tender new growth. Using sharp, clean shears or a knife, cut the young stalks individually near the base of the plant. Avoid taking the older, tougher leaves which can become bitter and unpalatable. Young leaves can be eaten fresh as a green or blanched and dried for later use in soups or teas.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Propagation
Ligularia can be propagated either by division or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Ligularia, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Ligularia by Seed
Propagating Ligularia by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil, compost and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every 3-4 years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance, especially if they are grown in containers. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
Propagating Ligularia by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- Harvest your seeds. The seed heads on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
- In either late winter or early springtime, get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-6 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Propagating Ligularia by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil, compost and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every 3-4 years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance, especially if they are grown in containers. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
- Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the root(s). Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
- Start to tease apart the roots with your fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick root section attached.
- Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divisions and water thoroughly.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout in the next growing season.
Ligularia seed heads can be rounded or form on spikes, depending on the species.
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Ligularia seeds are elongated, dark brown to black, and have feathery attachments.
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Problems and Pests
Ligularia plants are typically resilient plants in the landscape, though they can have issues with the following from time to time:
- Snails and Slugs
Gallery
These plants provide beautiful foliage even when out of bloom.
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Here, Ligularia is used along a shaded pathway to provide some much-needed color.
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Ligularia species either form upright spikes or terminal inflorescences which hold their flowers.
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Videos
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Learn about these fantastic pollinator plants for shade.
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Check out this video about Ligularia 'Bottle Rocket'.
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How to grow Leopard Plant in the garden.
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These nursery plants are ready to go in the ground.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 411, Ligularia
