Lophomyrtus

( loh - foh - MIR - tiss )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of evergreen shrubs, commonly called New Zealand Myrtle or Ramarama, includes species which need full sun to partial shade and moderate to regular water to thrive in the garden. They are native to New Zealand, and are known for their attractive foliage and colorful new growth. These shrubs are commonly used for hedging or as screening plants, as accents in mixed beds and borders, in containers, and for their handsome foliage, which is harvested for use in flower arranging. Take care when planting these shrubs in the landscape as plant parts are toxic to livestock if ingested.

Lophomyrtus Species and Varietals

The genus Lophomyrtus is a member of the plant family Myrtaceae and includes just two species and one hybrid. Plants in this genus are closely related to those in Myrtus (Myrtle) and Ugni (Chilean Guava). The ideal growing zones for these shrubs varies depending on the species. See the descriptions below for more information. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Lophomyrtus bullata (Ramarama, Bubbleleaf, New Zealand Myrtle)
These evergreen shrubs or small trees reach up to 16 feet tall and have heavily-puckered foliage. They grow well in USDA hardiness zones 8-11. Flowers are small and white, blooming in summer and followed by small, fleshy reddish-black fruits. Cutlivar 'Maitai Bay' has especially showy reddish-brown foliage.

Lophomyrtus obcordata (Rohutu, Tutuhi, New Zealand Myrtle)
These plants are endemic to New Zealand, and are typically found growing in lowland forest areas. They reach up to between 16 and 19 feet tall when mature, and have greyish bark that sheds off in papery pieces. Leaves are very tiny and green, and flowers are white and have many stamens. Tutuhi shrubs are suited for USDA hardiness zones 8b-11.

Lophomyrtus x ralphii (New Zealand Myrtle, Ramarama)
This hybrid species grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 8-9 and 14-24. It reaches 6-15 feet tall and 5-8 feet wide, with dark green leaves and small white summertime flowers that are followed by dark berries. Individual plants can be pruned into a tree or used as a hedge, making it a very versatile choice for a garden. Stems are popular inclusions in cut flower arrangements. Varieties with colored leaves are more vibrant when planted in full sun. Cultivars are listed and described below:

'Black Beauty'
With dark purple-black foliage to 6.5 feet tall with an upright habit.

'Black Pearl'
Compact shrub with dark purple leaves.

'Kathryn'
Grows to 6-8 feet tall and has glossy maroon leaves.

'Little Star'
Dwarf shrub with cream-edged green leaves blushed pink.

'Magic Dragon'
Compact, upright shrub with narrow cream, pink and green leaves on dark red stems.

'Pixie'
Tiny bright red-brown leaves on a dwarf plant.

'Red Dragon'
To 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide, this selection has reddish-pink leaves that turn red in cooler temperatures.

'Sundae'
To 8-12 feet tall and 4-8 feet wide with red-flushed glossy green leaves edged in creamy yellow.

Caring for Lophomyrtus

Take care when planting these shrubs in the landscape as plant parts are toxic to livestock if ingested. Plant Lophomyrtus in a space in the landscape that receives full sun to partial shade; ideally, they appreciate between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day for the best foliage and overall growth (especially for cultivars with colored foliage). In warmer zones, provide these shrubs with some afternoon shade during the warmest hours of the day to prevent leaf scorch. For a dense hedge, space plants 3-4 feet apart. If planting a specimen or loose border, space 5-6 feet apart to allow their natural shape to develop. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 5.6 and 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants perform well in consistently moist soils. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season; these shrubs can look a bit haggard towards the end of summer after flowering and fruiting finishes and can be lightly trimmed at that time. Early springtime is the best time of the year to prune for shape; trim back leggy or overgrown branches. These shrubs bloom on new growth. Under optimal growing conditions, these shrubs can survive in the landscape for several decades before needing to be replaced. They have a moderate to fast growth rate, taking between 5 and 10 years on average to reach their full mature size.

Caring for Lophomyrtus in Containers
Barberry shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Berberis plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Harvesting Lophomyrtus
Foliage from these plants is commonly used as greenery or filler in cut flower arrangements. They have stiff, woody stems that act as excellent structure, and many cultivars have colorful foliage. Stems are harvested when they reach between 12 and 18 inches long. The best time to harvest is in the early morning, after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Using clean, sharp shears, cut stems at an angle and remove the leaves below the water line. Immediately place the stems into a clean bucket of cool water. Allow the stems to 'harden off' by resting them in a cool, dark room for between 12 and 24 hours before arranging or designing with them. The vase life of Lophomyrtus cut foliage is between 7 and 14 days. To increase their vase life, change the vase water and re-cut stems every 2 to 3 days.

Propagation

Lophomyrtus can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Lophomyrtus by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.

Propagating Lophomyrtus by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. After flowers fade, berries will form in their place and just as they turn ripe is when you want to collect them and remove the seeds.
Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually occurs in the following springtime. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.