Metasequoia

( met - a - se - KOY - a )

At-A-Glance Information

Commonly called Dawn Redwood, these trees require full sun and need regular water to perform well in the landscape. It was rediscovered during the 1940's in China; previously thought to be extinct for millions of years. It has a pyramid shape and produces small cones amongst soft, green needles that turn light bronze in fall before dropping. Young trees have reddish-brown bark and more mature ones have dark bark and rugged trunk bases. These trees reach to 90 feet tall and 20 feet wide at maturity, though their true maximum size isn't known due to their relatively recent re-discovery. Cultivars 'Ogon' and 'Gold Rush' have more yellow foliage than the straight species. Metasequoia glyptostroboides, the only living species in the genus, grows well in USDA hardiness zones 4-8 or Sunset growing zones A3, 3-10 and 14-24 (to find your zone, click here: Zone Map). It is a member of the plant family Cupressaceae, and is related to Sequoia (Redwood) and Sequoiadendron (Giant Sequoia).

Caring for metasequoia

These beautiful, fast-growing landscape trees do well in full sun, but they can also tolerate partial shade. For optimal growth and foliage color, make sure that the tree receives between 6 and 8 hours of direct sun each day. These trees can grow to be quite large, so make sure that the chosen planting site has enough space to allow for the full size of the tree. They can reach widths of 25-30 feet when mature, and tower to 100 feet tall. These trees prefer moist but well-draining soil that is slightly acidic to neutral with a pH of between 5.5 and 7.0. They can tolerate a wide variety of soil types, as long as they are well-draining, but do prefer loamy soil. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of trees to suppress weed growth, increase soil moisture retention, and help to regulate soil temperatures. Water new plantings regularly as they develop strong root systems. During dry spells, make sure to provide extra deep waterings. Established trees are somewhat drought-tolerant, but do perform best with consistent moisture. Water deeply, especially during long dry periods of the year, and allow soil to dry out somewhat between waterings to discourage fungal root rot issues.

These trees do not require heavy feedings and typically do well with a simple application of organic compost to their root zone yearly in springtime. If trees seem to be struggling or foliage is somewhat discolored, trees may benefit from an extra feeding with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer (such as a 10-10-10). Avoid over-fertilizing trees, as this can negatively affect their growth and development over time. These trees also don't require heavy prunings, and have a natural pyramidal shape. Prunings should focus on maintaining this form instead of changing it. In late winter or early springtime, remove dead, broken, or diseased branches and lightly shape the canopy by removing crossing or poorly placed branches. Don't prune off too much foliage at any one time, as this can damage the tree and open it up to attacks from pests and disease.

Propagation

Metasequoia can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Metasequoia tree, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Metasequoia by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Scrape a 1/2 inch long and 1/4 inch wide section of bark off of the bottom of the cutting. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot so that about half of the height of the cutting is under the soil surface. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.

Propagating Metasequoia by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. Seeds are contained inside of the female cones on the tree, which are typically ready for harvesting in December and early January in most climates. Remove female cones from the tree, or pick them up off of the ground if they have started to drop already, and place them in a paper bag. Gather as many as you can and bring them indoors. Place the bag in a cool, dark, dry area as the cones open up and release seeds. The bag can also be shaken once in a while to speed up the process. Once seeds have been released, take them out of the bag to work with them.
Seeds will need to be cold-stratified; to do so, place them in a plastic bag or other sealable container filled with moistened peat moss or sand. Place the container in the refrigerator and leave it for about two weeks' time. Remove the seeds and then take them out to work with them.
Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.