Moraea

( mor - EYE - ah )

At-A-Glance Information

These grass-like flowering plants need full sun and regular water to perform well in the landscape and are native to sloped areas in South Africa. They are commonly called Cape Tulip or Butterfly Flower. Flowering stems reach 1.5 feet tall and support star-shaped blooms that range in color. Foliage will yellow and eventually die off after blooms emerge. Moraea plants can be used as architectural elements in mixed beds and borders, to edge pathways, around water features, and in water-wise or drought-tolerant garden beds. They are also used on sloped areas to fight erosion and can be grown in containers. Take care when planting these flowers in the landscape, as some species produce toxins that are poisonous to humans and pets.

Moraea species and varietals

The genus Moraea is a member of the plant family Iridaceae and includes over 220 species. Plants in this genus are closely related to those in Dietes (African Iris). The genus is named for English botanist Robert More. Moraea flowers will perform best when grown in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 or Sunset growing zones 4-24. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Moraea aristata (Blue-Eyed Uintjie, Blouooguintjie, Peacock Iris)
These flowers are endemic to the city of Cape Town in South Africa and are considered to be critically endangered. These winter-flowering bulbs bloom on the end of stems or short side branches. White petals have blue splotches towards their bases. Each flower lasts about three days before dropping from the plant.

Moraea bellendenii (Patrysuintjie)
This species is named for English botanist John Bellenden, and is native to the Western Cape area of South Africa. Flowers produced are yellow, blooming from October to November in the plant's native range. They commonly have brown to maroon coloration towards their centers. These plants can reach up to 20 to 40 inches tall when mature and in bloom. They are considered invasive in Australia and New Zealand.

Moraea bituminosa
These plants grow from corm, produce two green leaves each, and reach about a foot tall when in bloom. Flowers bloom from October through December in the plant's native range. Plants are endemic to the Western Cape in South Africa. and were first formally described in 1782. Blooms are clear lemon yellow.

Moraea collina (Homeria collina) (Cape Tulip, Aasuintjie)
Endemic to the Western Cape of South Africa, these plants are common on low sloped areas. Plants reach between 6 and 20 inches tall when in bloom. Flowers are yellow (occasionally pale salmon-pink) and are in bloom from July through September. Blooms open in the afternoon. This species is considered a noxious weed in the United States.

Moraea flaccida (One-Leaf Cape Tulip)
These bulbs are native to South Africa, and have become noxious weeds in some areas of the globe, including Australia. Flowers are salmon-colored, and bloom from summer through fall in their native range. Plants can reach up to between 10 and 30 inches when mature and in bloom. This species is considered highly invasive in Australia and New Zealand.

Moraea gawleri (Crisp Tulip)
These plants are native to South Africa, and produce beautiful flowers that are cream-colored to pink, marked with reddish veining. Petals have yellow flushing towards their bases. Individual plants reach up to between 8 and 20 inches tall when mature and in bloom. Crisp Tulip is considered invasive in Australia.

Moraea gigandra (Peacock Moraea, Grootflappie, Two-Eyed Gem)
These plants are native to South Africa, and produce purple flowers with blue and black markings toward their centers. Individual plants reach up to about 20 inches tall when mature and in bloom. Peacock Moraea grows well in USDA hardiness zones 8a-9b.

Moraea polystachya (Karoo Tulip, Cape Blue Tulip, Butterfly Iris, Blue Tulip, Kraai-Uintjie, Poison Moraea)
Native to southern Africa, these plants reach about three inches tall and produce foliage that is grass-like and green. Flowers are blue to lilac in color, and bloom from March to May in the plant's native range. Karoo Tulip is suited for USDA hardiness zones 7b-10b. Take care when planting this species in the garden, as plant parts are toxic to humans and pets if ingested. It is considered invasive in New Zealand and Australia.

Moraea sisyrinchium (Gynandriris sisyrinchium) (Barbary Nut, Barbary Nut Iris)
These dwarf plants produce purple flowers and are native to southern Europe and the Mediterranean region. Individual plants reach up to between 12 and 18 inches tall when mature and in bloom. This species is considered invasive in Iran.

Moraea tricolor (Show Tulip, Show Tulp)
These flowers are native to the Western Cape of South Africa. Individual plants when mature and in bloom can reach up to between 8 and 18 inches tall. Plants produce a solitary leaf and yellow, pink-red, or light purple flowers with yellow nectar guides.

Caring for Moraea

Take care when planting these flowers in the landscape, as some species produce toxins that are poisonous to humans and pets. Moraea can be planted as corms or nursery specimens, though corms are not typically available year-round. They are best planted in fall or winter, about 2 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Moraea, or Cape Tulip, should be grown in a space in the landscape that receives full sun. These plants can be grown in partial shade, but will flower and grow more rapidly in a place where they receive 6-8 hours of direct sun each day. Moraea enjoys soils that are rich in nutrients, well-draining, and that have a pH of between 6.0 and 8.0. If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. These flowers can be planted either in-ground or in containers, though they do better in the ground, as their bulbous roots will grow over time, and eventually overwhelm their pot. After planting, apply a thick layer of mulch around the area to suppress weed growth, maintain soil temperatures, and increase moisture retention.

Water newly installed plants regularly as they establish a strong root system. Once established, their corm roots allow them to get by on little water, needing only supplemental irrigations during months with no rainfall. While they are dormant, withhold all irrigation. Each year in springtime, apply a 2-inch layer of organic compost around the planting area to improve soil structure, drainage, and nutrient load. This feeding should be sufficient to provide these flowers with enough nutrients to get through their growth and flowering seasons with ease. Pruning is not necessary, but if any foliage is becoming unsightly, it can be removed at any time during the growing season. Spent flowers can be removed to neaten up the look of plants and encourage more blooms to pop. If propagating these plants via seed, the flowering stalks will need to remain and seed heads will eventually mature, providing seeds for the next generation of plants. Moraea will need dividing every few years to maintain good health and airflow around plants. They form clumps over time, and have the potential to outgrow their space. Clumps can remain in place for a while, but should be divided in fall or winter every few years for best results. For instructions on dividing Moraea plants, see the Propagation section below. These plants can live for 8 to 10 years before needing to be replaced.

Propagation

Moraea, or Cape Tulip, can be propagated either by division or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Cape Tulip flowers, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Moraea by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. The seed heads on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
In either late winter or early springtime, get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-3 months from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Propagating Moraea by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil, compost and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:

Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the rhizome root(s). Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
Start to tease apart the roots with your fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick rhizome section attached.
Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divisions and water thoroughly.
Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout in the next growing season.

Moraea seed capsules form after flowers have faded and contain between 50 and 15- seeds.

Moraea seeds are irregularly shaped and pale brown to black, with a wrinkled surface.

Problems and Pests

Certain Moraea species are considered invasive in some regions; see the species descriptions above for more information. Check with local authorities before planting. Moraea plants do not typically have many pest or disease issues in the landscape, though they can suffer from time to time from problems with: