Narcissus

( nar - SISS - us )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of flowering perennials, also known as Daffodil or Jonquil, need full sun during their blooming periods and partial shade afterwards if they are being grown in warmer climates. They also require regular water during their growth and blooming periods, and are not eaten by deer or gophers. They are native to Europe and North Africa. Daffodils increase in number year over year, growing to form colonies of beautiful flowers in various colors. All blooms have the same basic structure: six outer petal-like segments, also called perianths that are held flat outside of the corona, or inner segment. Flowers can be single or borne in clusters, and most are colored in white and/or yellow with reds, oranges, apricots, and creams as secondary colors. Daffodils do wonderfully in containers, in planter beds, and make great additions to cut flower gardens. Take care when planting these flowers in the landscape, as they are toxic to humans and pets.

Narcissus Species and Varietals

The genus Narcissus is a member of the plant family Amaryllidaceae and includes between 16 and 160 distinct species. Daffodils are generally divided into groups, depending on their makeup, habit, and native range. These groups are described below, along with related cultivars. Most species will grow best in USDA hardiness zones 3-9 or Sunset growing zones A2, A3 and 1-24, though this can vary somewhat depending on the type of Daffodil cultivated. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Trumpet Daffodils (Narcissus pseudonarcissus)
This group of Daffodils produce solitary flowers that have coronas as long as or longer than the tepals. Blooms come in a wide variety of colors and shapes. These plants are great for any garden setting, including rock gardens and under trees and also do well in containers. They typically bloom in early to mid-spring and multiply freely, making them excellent for naturalizing.

'Arkle'

'Bravoure'

'Dutch Master'

'Goblet'

'Holland Sensation'

'Mount Hood'

'King Alfred'

'Las Vegas'

'Little Gem'

'Marieke'

'Pay Day'

'Pistachio'

'Queen Beatrix'

'Rijnveld's Early Sensation'

'Standard Value'

'Topolino'

'Unsurpassable'

'W.P. Milner'

'Yellow River'

Large-Cupped Daffodils
In these cultivars, the center cup is at least a third of the length of perianth segments. There is typically one flower per stem.

'Accent'

'Akita'

'Amadeus'

'Ambergate'

'Amos Pettingill'

'Bella Vista'

'Berlin'

'Brooke Ager'

'Carlton'

'Ceylon'

'Chromacolor'

'Cool Flame'

'Coral Crown'

'De La Sol'

'Decoy'

'Easter Party'

'Fellow's Favorite'

'Ferris Wheel'

'Flower Record'

'Fortissimo'

'Fortune'

'Fragrant Rose'

'Frosty Snow'

'Gigantic Star'

'Greengarden'

'Hawaiian Skies'

'Ice Follies'

'Jack Sparrow'

'Jacqueline'

'Johann Strauss'

'Juanita'

'La Delicatesse'

'Lincoln Eliot'

'Love You More'

'Lucky Number'

'Martha Stewart'

'Merel's Favorite'

'Modern Art'

'Monal'

'My Dearest'

'Orange Progress'

'Pacific Rim'

'Passionate'

'Pink Bomb'

'Pink Charm'

'Pink Pride'

'Professor Einstein'

'Pumpkin Spice'

'Pyjama Party'

'Red Devon'

'Red Ranger'

'Redhill'

'Riot'

'Romance'

'Roulette'

'Saint Keverne'

'Salome'

'Sempre Avanti'

'Slim Whitman'

'Snowtip'

'Soestdijk'

'Stainless'

'Teal'

'Tom Pouce'

'Warming Up'

Small-Cupped Daffodils
The cup of this group does not exceed more than a third of the length of the outer perianth segments. One solitary flower is produced per stem.

'Abstruse'

'Aircastle'

'Albatross'

'Angel Face'

'Arid Plains'

'Astrid's Memory'

'Audubon'

'Badgeworth'

'Barrett Browning'

'Barri Conspicuus'

'Bath's Flame'

'Beautiful Dream'

'Besame Mucho'

'Camilla Clara Kate'

'Cherry Glow'

'Dallas'

'Dreamlight'

'Elegance'

'Firebrand'

'Hartlebury'

'La Riante'

'Little Jewel'

'Love Actually'

'My Sweetheart'

'Night Circus'

'Park Springs'

'Petra's'

'Polar Hunter'

'Pracht'

'Queen of the North'

'Sabine Hay'

'Seagull'

'Segovia'

'Silver Choice'

'Three of Diamonds'

'Triple Crown'

'Xit'

'Yellow Xit'

Double Daffodils
These flowers look a bit more like Peonies rather than classic Daffodils, with center cups that have segments that are separate rather than joined together. This group can have either single flowers or stems with more than one bloom per stem.

'Ambon'

'Androcles'

'Apotheose'

'Arcropolis'

'Art Design'

'Bellabombe'

'Biffo'

'Bridal Crown'

'Cheerfulness'

'Crackington'

'Delnashaugh'

'Dick Wilden'

'Easter Born'

'English Style'

'Erlicheer'

'Extravaganza'

'Flower Drift'

'Gay Tabor'

'Golden Ducat'

'Golden Pearl'

'Ice King'

'Le Torch'

'Lingerie'

'Manly'

'Milena'

'My Story'

'Obdam'

'Peach Cobbler'

'Peach Prince'

'Peach Swirl'

'Petit Four'

'Pink Champagne'

'Pink Performance'

'Pom Pom Rose'

'Popeye'

'Replete'

'Rip Van Winkle'

'Rose of May'

'Sir Winston Churchill'

'Sizzling Fire'

'Solar Wind'

'Sun Catchers'

'Sweet Ocean'

'Tahiti'

'Tete Boucle'

'Waylon'

'White Explosion'

'Yellow Cheerfulness'

Triandrus Hybrid Daffodils
This group of Daffodils includes hybrids with cups that reach at least two thirds of the outer segment length. There are several (two or more) flowers per stem. Perianth segments are typically reflexed.

'Abbey Road'

'Akepa'

'Angel's Breath'

'Angel's Whisper'

'April Tears'

'Chipper'

'Churchfield Bells'

'Golden Symphony'

'Hawera'

'Ice Wings'

'Kate Heath'

'Niveth'

'Petrel'

'Ringing Bells'

'Shy Lass'

'Thalia'

Cyclamineus Hybrid Daffodils
This group of hybrid Daffodils is characterized by their early blooming season and recurved outer perianth segments. These cultivars produce one bloom per stem.

'Bartley'

'Bell Fly'

'Beryl'

'Cazique'

'Charity May'

'Cotinga'

'Dove Wings'

'El Condor'

'Elizabeth Ann'

'Englander'

'February Gold'

'Foundling'

'Hummingbird'

'Jack Snipe'

'Jenny'

'Jetage'

'Jetfire'

'Lemon Silk'

'Lilac Charm'

'Little Witch'

'Mary Lou'

'Minicycla'

'Mite'

'Orange Comet'

'Peeping Tom'

'Peppercorn'

'Rapture'

'Right Stuff'

'Swift Arrow'

'Tete a Tete'

'Tracey'

'The Alliance'

'Tiger Moth'

'Trena'

'Velocity'

'Wisley'

Jonquilla Hybrid Daffodils
This group of hybrid Daffodils has much smaller flowers than others, with between one and five (rarely up to 8) blooms per stem. Outer perianth segments of blooms are spreading or reflexed, and the corona is funnel-shaped or flared. Flowers are typically quite fragrant in this group.

'American Goldfinch'

'Amore Mio'

'An-Gof'

'Baby Boomer'

'Baby Moon'

'Beautiful Eyes'

'Bebop'

'Bell Song'

'Bobbysoxer'

'Chappie'

'Chiquitita'

'Clare'

'Cosmopolitan'

'Curlylocks'

'Dainty Miss'

'Delicious'

'Desert Bells'

'Dickcissel'

'Diego'

'Discodip'

'Edged in Gold'

'Flomay'

'Golden Echo'

'In the Pink'

'Intrigue'

'Kaykay'

'Kedron'

'Kokopelli'

'Ladies' Choice'

'Lieke'

'Limequilla'

'Little Rusky'

'Little Sentry'

'Littlefield'

'Marie Curie Diamond'

'Miss Klein'

'Orange Queen'

'Pequenita'

'Pipit'

'Pixie's Sister'

'Pueblo'

'Quail'

'Rikki'

'Road Runner'

'Sabrosa'

'Sailboat'

'Silver Smiles'

'Stocken'

'Sun Disc'

'Sweet Smiles'

'Sweetness'

'Trelissick'

'Twinkling Yellow'

'Verdant Sparks'

'Willkommii'

Tazetta Daffodils and Tazetta Hybrid Daffodils
This group grows well in zones 5-24 and has very fragrant flowers, borne four to eight per stem. Cups on these flowers are short.

'Abraxis'

'Ariel'

'Avalanche'

'Avalanche of Gold'

'Canaliculatus'

'Carra's Favorite'

'Castanets'

'Chinita'

'Cragford'

'Early Splendor'

'Falconet'

'Fencourt Jewel'

'Geranium'

'Gloriosus'

'Grando Monarque'

'Grand Soliel D'Or'

'Hilary Marea'

'Inbal'

'Killara'

'Lima's Green Goddess'

'L'Innocence'

'Little Dianne'

'Marisol'

'Martha Washington'

'Martinette'

'Minnow'

'Miss Meliss'

'Mot Mot'

'Nickelodeon'

'Pacific Coast'

'Polly's Pearl'

'Scarlet Gem'

'Scilly White'

'Ziva'

Poeticus Daffodils
The perianth segments on these flowers are very short, and surround a broad central cup of a contrasting color. This group is comprised of some very fragrant selections. Coronas typically have a green-yellow center with a red-orange rim, and anthers are set at two levels.

'Actaea'

'Cantabile'

'Clovelly Ayr'

'Horace'

'Pheasant's Eye'

'Poet's Way'

Bulbocodium Hybrids
Perianth segments are narrow and almost thread-like in these interesting hybrids. Flowers are typically smaller than those in other cultivar groups, and plants are shorter on average, with green, grass-like linear foliage.

'Arctic Bells'

'Ballroom Belle'

'Capella Gold'

'Casual Elegance'

'China Jewel'

'Delicate Design'

'Golden Bells'

'Mary Poppins'

'Mitimoto'

'Oxford Gold'

'Spoirot'

'White Petticoat'

Split-Corona or Slip-Cupped Hybrid Daffodils (Collar or Papillon Daffodils)
This group of hybrids is characterized by cups that are split for at least a third of their length into two or more segments. This is a small class of Daffodils, but more hybrids are being created with these characteristics.

'Apricot Whirl'

'Belcanto'

'Blazing Star'

'Cassata'

'Changing Colors'

'Chanterelle'

'Congress'

'Cum Laude'

'Donaupark'

'Drama Queen'

'Electrus'

'Exotic Mystery'

'Gabriel Kleiberg'

'Garbo'

'Infinite Joy'

'Jayne Mansfield'

'Lemon Beauty'

'Love Call'

'Mallee'

'Moonlight Serenade'

'Orangery'

'Palmares'

'Papillon Blanc'

'Parisienne'

'Peachy Dream'

'Pink Wonder'

'Sailorman'

'Shrike'

'Slice of Life'

'Smiling Twin'

'Sorbet'

'Sovereign'

'Sunny Girlfriend'

'Tiritomba'

'Tristar'

'Yellow Parrot'

Other Species, Varieties and Hybrids
This group includes many naturally-occurring forms and wild hybrids. Some types are even great for rock gardens or as miniature additions to container plantings.

Narcissus bulbocodium
(Hoop Petticoat Daffodil)
This species grows best in zones 3-24 and has 6 inch tall stems sprouting from grassy foliage that hold a few small yellow flowers with thread-like perianth segments.

Narcissus jonquilia (Jonquil)
This species has very fragrant golden flowers with shortened center cups. Two to six blooms are held on each 1-foot tall stem.

Caring for Narcissus

Take care when planting these flowers in the landscape, as they are toxic to humans and pets. The first step in caring for Narcissus in the garden is to make sure the plants purchased are healthy and ready to be planted. Most gardeners choose to purchase Narcissus bulbs, which are available at many garden centers and online. When choosing Narcissus bulbs, make sure that they look healthy (avoid any with black spots), and are large and firm with their papery covering intact. Discard any bulbs in the package that are withered, overly dried out, or soft and mushy (indicating bulb rot). Plan on purchasing a good number of bulbs; these flowers look best when planted in groups. They are best planted out in the middle of fall so that they can begin forming a strong root system before flowers emerge in springtime. Daffodils do well in mixed beds and borders, under trees and shrubs, or in containers.

Choose a spot in the garden that receives full sun to dappled shade. They do best in full sun, but do appreciate some afternoon shade when temperatures are at their highest. Plant in well-draining, moderately fertile soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Set bulbs 5-6 inches deep (for larger bulbs) or 3-5 inches deep (for smaller bulbs), spacing them 6 to 8 inches apart. Water newly planted Daffodils regularly as they establish a strong root system. At maturity (and after they have acclimated to their new site) these flowers are somewhat drought-tolerant. Rainfall is usually sufficient to keep Daffodils alive over the wet seasons, and when they are dormant in late spring through the end of winter, they do not require much irrigation. After flowers fade, stems can be cut back to the base of the plant. Foliage needs to be left on the plant, as it is still creating photosynthates that will be stored in the underground bulb and contribute to big blooms in the next season. After foliage yellows and dies back, it can be removed. Mulch over the top over summertime, and take care to not let the bulbs remain in standing water; when dormant, the bulbs will need to be kept dry.

Growing Narcissus in Containers
Narcissus, or Daffodil, bulbs can be grown either directly in the ground or in containers. Bulbs can last for about three years in a container before needing to be put in the ground, but for best results, pot new bulbs each year. Any species or cultivar can be grown in a pot, though smaller varieties, such as Tete a Tete, Jack Snipe, Ice Follies, or Carlton, are perfect for container cultivation. Daffodils will need a container that is at least 8-12 inches wide and a foot deep to allow for healthy root growth. Generally, a one gallon container is great for smaller varieties and a two gallon container holds standard-sized varieties well. Ensure that the container chosen has very good drainage; Narcissus bulbs do not like to be kept in soggy conditions. Fill the container with well-draining substrate; a mix of sandy soil and potting mix typically does the trick. Fill the container about 2/3 with the potting soil, and then place the bulbs in a circle with the pointed ends up. Cover with more potting substrate and water them in.

The container should be placed in a dark, cool spot where the temperature stays between 40 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit for 12-15 weeks' time. Water when the soil dries completely, ensuring that all excess moisture can drain out. After this period has passed, move the container to a sunny but cool spot in the garden. Water whenever the soil feels dry to the touch. The Daffodils will begin producing flowers at this time. Spent flowers can be trimmed off of plants, but any green foliage should be left to grow until it yellows and withers away.

Harvesting Narcissus Flowers
Narcissus, or Daffodil, blooms are popular in fresh flower arrangements due to their classic look and sweet fragrance. To properly harvest Daffodils to ensure that they will last a while in water, use sharp, cleaned shears or scissors to cut the flowering stem at the base of the plant. Leave all foliage intact as you harvest the flowers, as they will help the bulb store more energy for the following year. Immediately after harvesting, drop the cut flower stem in a bucket or container of cool water. After collecting all flowers desired, they can be transferred to a vase of cool water or arranged with other flowers. Keep in mind that Daffodils will release a sap into vase water that lessens the vase life of other flowers. This toxic exudate is emitted when the stems are freshly cut, and it is recommended that they soak for at least 6-7 hours alone before being added to a mixed arrangement. The vase life of Daffodil cut flowers is between

Propagation

Narcissus, or Daffodil, flowers can be propagated either by division of bulbs or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the bulb division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Daffodil flowers, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Narcissus by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
Harvest your seeds. The seed heads on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
In either late winter or early springtime, get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-6 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Propagating Narcissus by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in summertime just after foliage begins to die back and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance, especially if they are being grown in containers. To propagate by division, follow these steps:

Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the bulb(s). Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
Daffodils naturally produce bulbils on the sides of the main bulbs which can be removed and replanted elsewhere. Remove these smaller bulbs carefully, making sure to not nick or otherwise damage them.
Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divisions and water thoroughly.
Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout in the next growing season.