Nolina

( noh - LEEN - uh )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of succulent perennial plants are known as accent plants, and are prized for their grassy leaves. They grow best in full sun with little to no water, though some species require a bit more water for best performance. Many species form a thick trunk, adding to their vertical silhouette. In spring or summertime, the plant will produce a tall (3-4 foot) stalk from the center of the foliage rosette that carries tiny greenish-white flowers. They are great for desert or other dry landscapes. Use these grasses as dramatic, low-maintenance evergreen accents in mixed beds and borders, drought-tolerant or succulent gardens, on slopes for erosion control purposes, or in containers.

Nolina Species and Varietals

Nolina is a genus in the plant family Asparacageae, and includes 30 species. The plants in this genus are related to those in Beaucarnea (Ponytail Palm) and Dasylirion (Blue Sotol, Desert Spoon). The ideal growing zones for Nolina are USDA hardiness zones 5-11, though this varies somewhat depending on the species cultivated. ​To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Nolina bigelovii (Bigelow's Nolina, Beargrass)
This species grows best in USDA hardiness zones 8a-10a or Sunset growing zones 7-16 and 18-24 and is native to Arizona and California. A three foot tall stem is topped by a rosette of fleshy grey-green leaves The plant eventually reaches 6 feet wide.  In spring and summer, plant swill send up a massive flowering stalk that can reach up to 14 feet tall. Thousands of white to green flowers are held on each stalk.

Nolina longifolia (Mexican Grass Tree, Oaxacan Tree Nolina, Long Foliage Bear Grass, Ponytail Palm, Weeping Palmita, Zacate, Borracho)
These natives of central Mexico are best when grown in zones 12-24 and has a fountain of bright green grass-like leaves, which grow to top trunks of the plant that reach 6-10 feet tall. This plant can eventually grow to be 9 feet wide. Mexican Grass Tree is suited for growing in USDA hardiness zones 8b-11, and is hardy to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

Nolina nelsonii (Nelson's Blue Bear Grass, Blue Nolina, Nelson's Beargrass)
This tree has long, narrow blue-grey-green powdery leaves with toothed edges and is native to Mexico. It grows best in USDA hardiness zones 8a-11b or Sunset growing zones 5, 8, 9 and 11-24. Gets to 10 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide at maturity. Flower stalks support many white to cream-colored flowers. Foliage is blue-green and strappy.

​Nolina parryi (Parry's Beargrass, Parry's Nolina, Giant Nolina)
This plant does best when grown in USDA hardiness zones 8b-10b or Sunset growing zones 2, 3 and 7-24. It is native to the deserts of Southern California. The leaf bases have a spoon-like shape. Individual plants in this species can reach up to 6 to 12 feet tall and have a trunk diameter of 2 feet. During late springtime, it produces a flowering stalk that can reach up to 13 feet above the main foliage.

Caring for nolina

These plants prefer to grow in warm, dry climates, and will need some protection from frosty temperatures. Pick a spot in the landscape that receives full sun to partial shade, and if you are in a cooler climate, make sure to plant it in an area that is a bit protected from cold, drying winds and frost during the winter months. In warmer climates, these trees (especially when young or getting established) benefit from some afternoon shade. Plant your tree in well-draining soil. Sandy and/or gritty soil mix works well and helps prevent water from accumulating around the roots. If soil is particularly clayey, consider amending before planting with sand or perlite, or simply grow the tree in a container filled with very well-draining potting mix. After planting, apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the tree to help suppress weed growth and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent it rotting out. If you will be growing your Ponytail Palm outdoors in a pot, make sure to ensure that the pot has drainage holes and that you use a well-draining potting mix specially formulated for succulents and/or palms.

Pruning is minimal for these trees. Simply remove any dead or yellowing leaves as needed, and trim back any damaged or unsightly growth to maintain a tidy appearance. Do not damage or attempt to prune the swollen base of the plant. Feed twice a year with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer made for palms and/or succulents in early springtime and midsummer. Ponytail Palms may need extra protection in wintertime, especially if temperatures are regularly dropping down to around freezing. Cover the plant with a frost cloth or move it to a sheltered location during the winter months to help prevent cold damage. These are long-lived trees in the landscape, able to live for between decades and 350 years before needing to be replaced.

Propagation

​Nolina can be propagated  from seed or by dividing young offsets from their established parent tree. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Nolina plant, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Nolina by Seed
  1. Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together four parts sand, 2 parts peat moss, 1 part perlite and 1 part sterile soil. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual pots for each seedling that grows.
  2. Harvest your seeds. The inflorescences, once yellow and white, will start to turn brown and dry out. Only female plants will produce seeds, and seeds need to be pollinated to be viable. Place harvested seeds in a paper bag while collecting, and keep in a sealed container in a cool, dry, dark place if you will not be using them immediately. They can be stored for up to two years and still be viable.
  3. When you're ready to sow, take your seeds out of their container and place them on a work surface. To increase odds of germination, seeds can be soaked overnight in lukewarm water or scarified.
  4. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 10-30 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
  5. Water occasionally by soaking the pot and then allowing it to drain, and let it dry out in between waterings. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Propagating Nolina by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; adult Nolina trees will naturally produce side shoots that can be removed from the parent tree and transplanted elsewhere. You will need a sharp clean knife, rooting hormone, a plastic bag, fresh soil specialized for growing succulents and/or palms, and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere or growing them in containers). To propagate by division, follow these steps:
  1. Locate the tree you'll be taking your division from and the side shoot you'll be cutting from the parent. Remove the leaves from the bottom to reveal the stem. Place your cutting in a cool, dry, dark place for 24-48 hours so that it develops a callous.
  2. Prepare your pot filled with soil or the area where you'll be planting your division and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Amend soil if necessary. Dip the cut end of the division in rooting hormone and tap to remove excess. Then, plant your division in the hole and fill in soil around it. Do not pack the soil down too much, as this can interfere with drainage. Water the plant, ensuring that good drainage is occurring. Place a plastic bag or greenhouse top over the division, making sure it is not touching any of the leaves. This will serve to maintain humidity around the cutting as it establishes roots.
  3. Air out the cover and re-moisten daily. This should provide enough moisture for optimal root growth, but if you notice that your cutting is drying out, it could use a watering.
  4. If you are installing your division in the landscape, apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout.
  5. Alternatively, pups can be propagated in-situ (while still connected to the parent plant). Simply place moistened sphagnum moss at the base of the pup where it is connected to the parent, making sure to go all the way around the base. Spray the sphagnum moss once to twice daily to keep it sufficiently moist, letting the sphagnum moss completely dry out every few days. This fluctuation in moisture should trigger roots to start growing out into the sphagnum moss, after which time the pup can be removed from the parent and placed in its own pot (or in the ground outdoors).

Problems and Pests

These plants rarely suffer from problems in the garden, but can be susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases if growing conditions are not ideal:
  • Root Rot
  • Stem Rot
  • Leaf Spot
  • Bacterial Streak
  • Spider Mites
  • Mealybugs
  • Scale Insects
For more information about these pests and diseases, including how to treat and prevent them, consult the following pages:
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Gallery

Nolina flower spikes are massive, and provide architectural interest in mixed borders.
Younger plants form a low, dense tuft of grassy foliage.
Nolina are commonly included in succulent gardens.

Videos

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Resources

Wikipedia: Nolina
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 457, Nolina