Pandorea

( pan - DOH - ree - uh )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of woody evergreen vines includes species which need partial shade in warmer climates to perform well in the landscape. These lush plants have twining vines that produce large clusters of flowers. They are commonly called Bower Vine, Wonga Wonga Vine, or Pandora Vine. Species are native to Australia, Malesia, New Guinea, and New Caledonia. Use these climbing plants as groundcovers, to climb up trellises or over arches, to hide walls or fences, or simply as specimen plants in the landscape.

Pandorea Species and Varietals

The genus Pandorea is a member of the plant family Bignoniaceae and includes 9 species. The plants in this genus are closely related to those in Tecoma (Cape Honeysuckle), Campsis (Trumpet Vine), Jacaranda, and Tecomeria. The best growing zones for Pandorea are USDA hardiness zones 9a-11 or Sunset growing 16-24, H1 and H2. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Pandorea baileyana (Large-Leaved Wonga Vine)
This species is native to eastern Australia, and forms a woody climbing vine with glossy dark green leaves and cream-colored flowers with pink throats. Blooms are present from September through March in the plant's native range. Vining stems can reach up to 50 feet long with appropriate vertical support.

Pandorea jasminoides (Bigninia jasminoides) (Bower Vine, Bower of Beauty, Pink Bower Vine, White Bower Vine)
This species is native to Australia and grows quickly to reach 20-30 feet and 3 to 6 feet wide. Flowers are present on vines from late spring though early fall, and are white with pink throats. This species needs regular water and protection from prolonged periods of freezes to perform well. Cultivars are outlined and described below:

'Alba'
With pure white flowers.

'Rosea'
Soft pink flowers have red throats.

'Lady Di'
Flowers are white flowers that have creamy yellow throats.

'Rosea Superba'
Fragrant pink flowers with purple throats.

'Charisma'
Foliage is edged with white, and flowers are soft pink with darker pink throats.

Pandorea pandorana (Bignonia australis) (Wonga-Wonga Vine, Wonga Vine, Pandora Vine, Spearwood)
This species is native to Australia and the Pacific Islands, and and is more vigorous than P. jasminoides, reaching 40-60 feet when mature. Spring flowers are white, small, and have no fragrance. They are often spotted with dark colors. This species needs moderate water for best performance. Cultivars include 'Golden Showers' (pictured, with yellow-bronze flowers with red-brown throats), 'Snowbells' (with white flowers), 'Ruby Belle' (with deep pink flowers with white throats), and 'Alba' (with white flowers).

Caring for Pandorea

Plant Bower Vines in full sun or partial shade. The more sun they get, the more profusely they will flower, though in warmer climates they do appreciate some late afternoon cover when temperatures are the highest. These are not frost-tolerant vines, and will need some protection from cold temperatures, as well. They prefer well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0. If local soils are compacted, do not drain well, or are particularly poor in nutrients, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic matter or compost before installing. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plant after installation, ensuring that mulch stays at least a few inches away from the stems. This will increase soil moisture retention, suppress weed growth, and maintain a constant soil temperature.

Keep the soil moist while plants establish a strong root system; mature plants are considered somewhat drought-tolerant, but they do appreciate consistent moisture during the growth and flowering season. Foliage can be trimmed back at any time of the year to control growth and remove dead, damaged and diseased stems and leaves. Doing so will keep the plant at its healthiest form. Pinch young plants to encourage a bushy habit to form. These plants only bloom on old wood, so keep this in mind when making pruning cuts. Fertilize Bower Vines yearly for the best show of blooms with a dressing of organic compost applied around the base of the vine. Work the compost into the soil a bit, and then replace the mulch around the base. Pandorea plants can survive for 15 to 20 years or more in the landscape before needing to be replaced.

Caring for Pandorea in Containers
Pandorea vines can be grown in the ground or in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Bower Vines grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Propagation

Pandorea can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Bower Vine, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Pandorea by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.

Propagating Pandorea by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. The seed pods on these vines are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will begin to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.