Patrinia
( pah - TREE - nee - ah )
At-A-Glance InformationPatrinia is a genus filled with perennial plants that need full sun and regular water to perform well. Species are native to eastern Asia and form attractive mounds of foliage. In summer, tall stems hold clusters of tiny yellow or white flowers that are long-lasting in a vase. Fall foliage color is red-orange. They are great additions to perennial borders, mixed beds, or as members of cut flower, informal, cottage, or pollinator gardens.
|
Patrinia Species and Varietals
Patrinia is a genus in the plant family Caprifoliaceae and includes 14 species. The genus is named for French mineralogist Eugene L. M. Patrin. Patrinia grows best in zones 2b-6 and 15-17. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
|
Patrinia gibbosa (Swollen Patrinia) This species is native to Japan and the Kuril Islands. These perennial flowering plants form clumps of foliage over time. This species is smaller than the better-known Patrinia scabiosifolia. reaching up to just 2 feet tall when mature. Flowers produced by these plants are yellow, and bloom in terminal inflorescences. Leaves are large, wrinkled and light green; stems are dark red to reddish-green. |
|
Patrinia scabiosifolia (Eastern Valerian, Golden Lace, Golden Valerian) Reaches 4-6 feet tall and 2 feet wide. Stems produce spreading clusters of foliage with tiny yellow flowers. The stems are somewhat see-through. These plants are native to southeastern Siberia, Mongolian, eastern Russia, China, Vietnam, Korea, Japan, and the Ryukyu Islands. |
|
Patrinia villosa (White Patrinia) This species produces plants which grow to reach 2-3 feet tall and 2 feet wide when mature and in bloom. They produce tiny white flowers in terminal inflorescences which bloom in late summertime. Foliage is green, and typically concentrated towards the base of plants. |
Caring for Patrinia
Plant these perennial flowers in a space in the garden that receives full sun. Take care to not plant them close to Daylily plants, as they are a known carrier of Daylily Rust. They appreciate between 6 and 8 hours of direct sun during the day to bloom and perform well. They can handle partial shade, however, especially if grown in a warm climate. Ensure that soil is well-draining, moderately fertile, and has a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). Water new plantings regularly as they establish themselves in the landscape. At maturity, they appreciate consistently moist soil; as a general rule of thumb, irrigate whenever the top inch or two of soil feels dry to the touch. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the planting area after installation to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and increase soil moisture retention.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. These plants are not heavy feeders, and this should be sufficient to provide the necessary nutrients for the active growing and flowering seasons. Prune plants after they are done flowering by deadheading spent blooms. Remove stems down to the base of the plant. If harvesting seed for sowing in subsequent years, make sure to leave some flowers on the plant to go to seed. These plants are typically pruned twice a year. In early spring after the blooming season, cut plants back to 1/3 of their size to encourage a new flush of growth and more flowers to pop. In late summertime, cut plants back to the ground. These plants will need to be divided every few years, especially if they are grown in a cramped space or are declining in health. For instructions on how to successfully divide Patrinia plants, see the Propagation section below.
Harvesting Patrinia Cut Flowers
Patrinia is sometimes grown as a member of cut flower gardens. Their compound flowering heads are great for filling in bare spaces in arrangements and bouquets (though some people do not care for their scent), and there are both yellow and white varieties to choose from. Patrinia is harvested for its blooms in summer and fall. The best time to harvest is in the late morning, after dew has dried from leaves and flowers but before the heat of the day has set in. Using sharpened, clean shears, remove the flowering stem at its base and drop it into a bucket of cool water.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. These plants are not heavy feeders, and this should be sufficient to provide the necessary nutrients for the active growing and flowering seasons. Prune plants after they are done flowering by deadheading spent blooms. Remove stems down to the base of the plant. If harvesting seed for sowing in subsequent years, make sure to leave some flowers on the plant to go to seed. These plants are typically pruned twice a year. In early spring after the blooming season, cut plants back to 1/3 of their size to encourage a new flush of growth and more flowers to pop. In late summertime, cut plants back to the ground. These plants will need to be divided every few years, especially if they are grown in a cramped space or are declining in health. For instructions on how to successfully divide Patrinia plants, see the Propagation section below.
Harvesting Patrinia Cut Flowers
Patrinia is sometimes grown as a member of cut flower gardens. Their compound flowering heads are great for filling in bare spaces in arrangements and bouquets (though some people do not care for their scent), and there are both yellow and white varieties to choose from. Patrinia is harvested for its blooms in summer and fall. The best time to harvest is in the late morning, after dew has dried from leaves and flowers but before the heat of the day has set in. Using sharpened, clean shears, remove the flowering stem at its base and drop it into a bucket of cool water.
Propagation
Patrinia can be propagated either by division or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Golden Valerian, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Patrinia by Seed
Propagating Patrinia by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
Propagating Patrinia by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. The seed heads on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
- In either late winter or early springtime, get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-6 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Propagating Patrinia by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
- Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the root(s). Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
- Start to tease apart the roots with your gloved fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick root section attached.
- Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divisions and water thoroughly.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout in the next growing season.
Problems and Pests
Patrinia can be susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases in the landscape:
- Slugs and Snails
- Daylily Rust (Carrier)
- Aphids
- Whiteflies
- Root Rot
Gallery
|
This formal garden features upright evergreens, contrasted against the informal habit of Patrinia.
|
Patrinia is planted at the back of this bed, which also features Solidago and Cranesbill.
|
A young Patrinia seedling.
|
|
Prairie or meadow landscapes are ideal settings for these flowers.
|
Patrinia is interplanted in this mixed bed with Ironweed and Fountain Grass.
|
Videos
There are no videos available at this time.
Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 477, Patrinia