Phlomis

( FLO - miss )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of perennials and evergreen shrubs need full sun and little to moderate water, making them good choices for planting in water-wise gardens. Common names include Jerusalem Sage and Lampwick Plant. They are native to the Mediterranean and produce flowers in whorls, giving them a unique look. Blooms come in a variety of colors, including yellow, purple or lilac. Leaves are furry and greyish-green and conserve moisture to survive drought conditions. Flowers are wonderful additions to cut arrangements and dry well for winter bouquets. Use Phlomis in mass plantings, in dry beds and borders, to soften rock gardens, or as members of cut flower or pollinator gardens.

Phlomis Species and Varietals

This genus includes about 100 species, and is a member of the plant family Lamiaceae. Plants in this genus are related to hose in Stachys, Leonotis (Lion's Ear), Salvia, and Lamium (Dead Nettle). The genus name is derived from the Greek word for 'flame', possibly referring to the use of the leaves in ancient times as wicks for candles. Phlomis growing zones vary depending on the species; for more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Phlomis fruticosa (Jerusalem Sage)
This species is a shrub and grows well in USDA hardiness zones 5-10 or Sunset growing zones 3b-24. It reaches 4 feet tall and wide, and has grey-green wooly leaves. Flowers are golden yellow, blooming in spring and summer. Will repeat bloom if deadheaded. In fall, cut back by half to keep a compact look. Tolerates light shade for part of the day. Resistant to Oak Root Fungus. Cultivars include 'Edward Bowles' (with two-tone pale creamy flowers), 'Quilted Leaf' (with highly fragrant quilted leaves), 'Grande Verde' (large, multi-stemmed to 4-5 feet tall and wide with lemon yellow blooms), and 'Compact Form' (to 2-3 feet tall and wide).

Phlomis italica (Balearic Island Sage, Jerusalem Sage, Italian Jerusalem Sage, Lampwick Plant)
This species takes the form of a shrub with an arching, suckering habit. Reaches 1-2 feet tall and just a little bit wider; best in USDA hardiness zones 7a-10b or Sunset growing zones 5-10 and 14-24. Grey green leaves are wooly to the touch. Flowers are lilac-pink and bloom in early summer to midsummer. Remove faded flower stems to keep a neat look. Cut out basal branches that are older than three years to keep plants from becoming too woody.

Phlomis lanata (Woolly Jerusalem Sage, Compact Jerusalem Sage, Dwarf Jerusalem Sage)
This shrub grows well in USDA hardiness zones 8a-11 or Sunset growing zones 7-24 and has a dense, compact habit, reaching 4-6 feet tall and wide at maturity. Leaves are wooly and wrinkled. Deep yellow flowers appear from spring through fall, and will have a longer blooming period if deadheaded.

Phlomis purpurea (Purple Jerusalem Sage, Purple Phlomis, Jerusalem Sage, Lampwick Plant)
This shrub grows well in USDA hardiness zones 8a-11b or Sunset growing zones 7-24 and has a dense, compact habit to 4-6 feet tall and wide. Grey-green leaves contrast well against purple-pink flowers that bloom in late springtime. Can repeat bloom if deadheaded regularly. Cut plant back by a third after each flowering period to keep a compact, neat look.

Phlomis russeliana (Turkish Sage, Jerusalem Sage)
This perennial grows well in USDA hardiness zones 4-9 or Sunset growing zones 2-24 and spreads via underground rhizomes to form a clump of green foliage. Leaves are large and heart-shaped; flowers are yellow, aging to cream, and bloom on 2-3 foot tall stems. Blooming period is in early summer, but can bloom longer if deadheaded. Can tolerate partial shade.

Phlomis samia (Greek Jerusalem Sage, Samia Sage)
This perennial grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7a-10b or Sunset growing zones 2-24 and forms a low mat of green foliage. Blooms are present through the summer season on 2-3 foot tall stems. Flowers are purple to purple-pink and flowering stems are red.

Phlomis tuberosa (Sage-Leaf Mullein, Tuberous Jerusalem Sage, Jerusalem Sage, Turkish Sage, Lampwick Plant)
This species is a perennial that grows from tuberous roots, growing well in USDA hardiness zones 4-9 or Sunset growing zones A1-A3 and 1-24. It forms a rosette of deep green leaves covered with tiny hairs, and from late spring through summer, sends up 3-6 foot tall stems of purple to mauve blooms. The plant dies to the ground in wintertime. This species is considered invasive in the midwestern United States.

Caring for Phlomis

These shrubs prefer to be planted in full sun to dappled shade, doing best with at least 6-8 hours of sun each day. Plant in well-draining soil that is moderately fertile, amended with organic material, and has a pH of between 4.5 and 8.0, though this varies depending on the species somewhat, so check specific requirements on the plant label before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water deeply but infrequently when these plants are mature (they will need somewhat regular waterings as they are becoming established in the garden). These are considered to be relatively drought-tolerant plants; allow soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Prune as needed to maintain shape and size. Remove spent flower spikes after they have faded if desired; they are still handsome when spent, and are commonly left standing after flowers fade for their ornamental value. Trim back leggy foliage growth to encourage a more compact, bushy, fuller plant to form. Dead or damaged growth can be pruned away at any time as it appears. Phlomis plants are long-lived perennial shrubs that can survive for decades in the garden before needing to be replaced.

Caring for Phlomis in Containers
Phlomis flowers do well in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Phlomis plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Harvesting Phlomis
Phlomis flowers make great ornamental additions to the landscape, and are long-lasting as cut flowers that add height, bright color, and scent to fresh arrangements. The species most commonly cultivated for their cut flowers are Phlomis fruticosa and Phlomis russelana. The flowers are typically in bloom from late spring through the middle of summer. Stems are harvested when the flowers are fully open but before they start to drop. Using clean, sharp shears or snips, sever the flower stem at its base. Remove all foliage below the water line and drop the stems into a bucket of cool water. Phlomis cut flowers have a vase life of 7 to 10 days. Phlomis stems are also used in dried arrangements. They can either be harvested in peak bloom or after flowers have faded and geometric seed heads remain. Cut the stems at their base with clean, sharp shears or snips, and remove all foliage. Dry them upside down a dark, well ventilated space for 1 to 3 weeks. Stalks are dry when they feel completely stiff and crisp to the touch - not limp or cold.

Propagation

Phlomis can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Phlomis by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new plant.

Propagating Phlomis by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil, compost, and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in spring or fall, and needs to be done every four to five years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:

Gather your materials. Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the roots. Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
Start to tease apart the roots with your fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick tuberous section.
Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divided tubers about an inch under the soil surface and water thoroughly.
Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout.

Propagating Phlomis by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In January or February, water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes between two weeks and two months from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Phlomis seeds are contained inside dried seed heads that appear on stems after flowers have faded.

Phlomis seeds are brown to black and oblong.

Problems and Pests

Certain Phlomis species are considered invasive in some regions; see the species descriptions above for more information. Check with local authorities before planting. Although Phlomis plants are relatively resistant to pests and diseases, they do suffer from a few issues, including: