Rosa

( ROE - suh )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of deciduous and evergreen shrubs and vines, commonly referred to as Rose, is one of the most easily recognizable in the Western world. Species need full sun to light shade and regular water to perform well in the landscape. These plants vary in size, form, shape, habit, fragrance, color, and resistances. Roses are versatile in the landscape, and can be used as privacy or security hedges, vertical accents on trellises or arbors, as erosion control on slopes, as groundcover in sunny areas, or even in containers. They will attract pollinators like bees and butterflies to the landscape, and some species are cultivated for their fruits. Take care when planting these shrubs in the landscape, as many species produce sharp prickles that can puncture skin and clothing.

Rosa Species and Varietals

The genus Rosa is the type genus member of the plant family Roasaceae and includes over 300 species and tens of thousands of cultivars. The plants in this genus are closely related to those in Fragaria (Strawberry), Rubus (Raspberry and Blackberry), Potentilla (Cinquefoil), Geum (Avens) and Sanguisorba (Burnet). These shrubs grow well in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 11, though this varies depending on the species cultivated. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Rosa abyssinica (Abyssinian Rose, Ethiopian Rose, Wild Ethiopian Rose, African Rose, Kega, Ward, Quqawwii, Dayero)
This species forms a prickly evergreen creeping, scrambling shrub that is capable of forming a small tree to 23 feet tall. It has few prickles, and leaves are leathery and green. Flowers are fragrant and white to pale yellow. The species is native to tropical East Africa and the Arabian Peninsula (Eritrea, Ethiopia, Yemen, Saudi Arabia, Somalia, and Sudan). It grows well in USDA hardiness zones 9-11.

Rosa acicularis (Prickly Wild Rose, Prickly Rose, Bristly Rose, Wild Rose, Arctic Rose)
This species of wild rose is native to northern temperate and boreal regions of Asia, Europe, and North America. It is the official floral emblem of Alberta, Canada, and reaches up to 3 to 7 feet tall and 3 to 6 feet wide when mature. Flowers are pink and hips are red and pear shaped. Prickly Wild Rose is suited for growing in USDA hardiness zones 2-7 and is exceptionally cold-hardy.

Rosa arvensis (Rosa pervirens, Rosa x pollinaiana, Rosa repens) (Field Rose, Wild Rose, White-Flowered Trailing Rose)
These shrubs reach up to 10 and 12 feet tall when mature and produce white flowers. Hips that follow are red. These shrubs are very prickly and produce arching purple stems clothed in green leaves. This species is suited for USDA hardiness zones 4-9.

Rosa x centifolia (Rosa gallica var. centifolia) (Hundred Leaved Rose, Provence Rose, Cabbage Rose, May Rose, Rose de Mai, Centifolia Rose, Moss Rose)
These cultivars are known for being featured in Dutch still life paintings, and have an open growth habit with prickly stems that can reach up to 6 feet long. They typically arch under the weight of the heavy blossoms. Flowers are intensely fragrant, typically bloom in springtime, and are packed with petals. Bloom color ranges from white to pink, though some cultivars vary. These plants will do well in USDA hardiness zones 5-9 or Sunset growing zones 2b-24. Cultivars are listed and described below:

'Bullata' (Lettuce Rose)
With large, crinkled foliage that resembles lettuce leaves and bright pink blooms. 4 to 6 feet tall, 3 to 5 feet wide.

'Cristata'
(Chapeau de Napoléon, Crested Moss Rose)
With mossy, fringed calyces and pink flowers. To 4-5 feet tall.

'Fantin-Latour'
Abundant, flat-cupped blush-pink blooms with old rose scent. 4-6 feet tall and 3-6 feet wide.

'Petite de Hollande'
Compact shrub to 2-4 feet tall with miniature pink blossoms.

'Rose de Meaux'
Miniature heritage rose with tight pink double button blooms. To 2-3 feet tall and wide.

'Unique Blanche'
('White Provence')
With cream-white flowers with green eyes. To 4-5 feet tall and wide.

'Village Maid'
Striking pale roses striped and splashed with soft purple and crimson. To 4-6.5 feet tall and 3-5 feet wide.

China Roses (Rosa chinensis) (Bengal Rose, Chinese Rose, Yueji)
Native to China, this group of roses grows best in zones 4-9, 12-24, H1 and H2. They were introduced to European gardens around 1800, when the main flower colors were red and pink. Plants reach between 2 and 4 feet tall, and produce blooms in small clusters. The subspecies Rosa chinensis minima is used to breed modern miniature rose cultivars.

Modern Roses
All roses in this category have been introduced after 1867 (the year the hybrid Tea Rose was developed). These shrubs are grouped below by type.

Shrub Roses
Some of the roses in this group have roots dating back to the early 20th century, and have been developed to be some of the best new ornamental varieties. These bushy roses bloom prolifically over a long season and have great disease resistance and tolerance to cold. These modern shrubs need little to no pruning, and remain shapely nonetheless. Their continuous flowering habit makes them great companions for perennials in mixed beds or borders. These varieties run the gamut from loose, small shrubby sprawlers to upright, thick-foliaged climbing types.

'Midnight Blue'

'Outta the Blue'

'Rhapsody in Blue'

'Ballerina'

'Blushing Knockout'

'Bonica'

'Carefree Delight'

'Carefree Wonder'

'Erfurt'

'Gertrude Jekyll'

'Harlow Carr'

'John Cabot'

'Pink Home Run'

'Pink Meidiland'

'Sunrise Sunset'

'Wisley 2008'

'Alexander Mackenzie'

'Carefree Spirit'

'Champlain'

'Darcy Russell'

'Double Knock Out'

'Henry Kelsey'

'Home Run'

'Knock Out'

'Linda Campbell'

'Munstead Wood'

'Oso Easy Cherry Pie'

'Coral Cove'

'Lady Elsie May'

'Oso Easy Honey Bun'

'Oso Easy Paprika'

'Watercolors'

'Baby Love'

'Carefree Sunshine'

'Graham Thomas'

'Happenstance'

'Lemon Splash'

'Molineux'

'Sunny Knockout'

'Buff Beauty'

'Macy's Pride'

'Sea Foam'

'Snowdrift'

'White Meidiland'

Hybrid Musk Shrub Roses
These plants were developed in England in the first 30 years of the 20th century, and are descended from the Musk Rose, Rosa moschata. These shrubs reach between 6 and 8 feet tall and just as wide, or are small climbers. They perform well in dappled shade to full sun, and most are everblooming with fragrant clusters of flowers. Some of these varieties will not flower well in mild climates.

'Lavender Lassie'

'Pink Prosperity'

'Petit Rat De L'Opera'

'Cornelia'

'Bukavu'

'Vif Eclat'

'Dancing in the Wind'

'Lexy'

'Penelope'

'Never Forget Rose'

'Moonlight'

Hardy Shrub Roses
This group of shrub roses are the results of Canadian and Midwestern rose breeding efforts. These roses can survive cold winters with virtually no protection needed. Some resemble floribundas and grandifloras, and others mimic hybrid tea roses.

'Country Dancer'

'John Cabot'

'Prairie Princess'

'William Baffin'

Groundcover-Type Roses
This group of rose bushes includes those that have a low-growing, sprawling habit. Most reach just 2.5 feet wide and can extend to 6 feet wide or more. These plants are vigorous, have good disease resistance, and bloom profusely from spring through fall. These plants are wonderful for covering flat or sloped areas and create low barriers to foot traffic. These varieties are also great for planting in pots, where they will spill over the sides. Several species of shrubby and climbing roses are included in this list, as they are multi-purpose rose shrubs.

'Appleblossom Flower Carpet'

'Coral Flower Carpet'

'Peach Drift'

'Pink Drift'

'Roseberry Blanket'

'Sweet Drift'

'Fire Meidiland'

'Red Drift'

'Red Flower Carpet'

'Red Ribbons'

'Red Meidiland'

'Scarlet Flower Carpet'

'Scarlet Meidiland'

'Electric Blanket'

'Happy Chappy'

'Sunrise Vigorosa'

'Yellow Flower Carpet'

'Icy Drift'

'White Flower Carpet'

'White Meidiland'

Old Roses

This group of roses includes those that existed before 1867, which is the year that the first hybrid Tea Rose was introduced in cultivation. This is a diverse group of roses, and are popular due to their histories and wonderful flower fragrance. They can take many forms, including climbers and shrubs. Resistances and hardiness varies considerably within this group.

Alba Roses (Rosa x alba) (White Rose of York)
This group of old European roses are native to Europe and western Asia. They mostly flower in springtime, and many appreciate some winter chill to bloom well. The best growing zones for this group generally fall between 2b-24. The cultivars listed here are descendents of Rosa alba, the white rose that symbolized the House of York in England's Wars of the Roses in the 15th century. Flowers bloom only in springtime, but are generally very fragrant, and can be single to very double, and white to light pink (though some hybrids have varying bloom colors). Plants are typically upright, vigorous, and long-lived, with green stems, and grey-green leaves that have good disease resistance. Cultivars are listed below:

'Alba Maxima'

'Alba Semi-Plena'

'Alba Suaveolens'

'Amelia'

'Belle Amour'

'Blanche de Belgique'

'Celeste'

'Chloris'

'Crimson Blush'

'Felicite Parmentier'

'Great Maiden's Blush'

'Jeanne d'Arc'

'Konigin von Danemark'

'Lemon Blush'

'Mme Legras de St Germain'

'Mme Plantier'

'Morning Blush'

'Royal Blush'

'Tender Blush'

Damask Roses (Rosa x damascena, Rosa gallica var. trigintipetala) (Iranian Rose, Bulgarian Rose, Taif Rose, Emirati Rose, Ipahan Rose, Castile Rose, Dulbesecerka)
These roses are best when grown in zones 2b-24 and are descendants of Rosa damascena. This hybrid species is the national flower of Iran. They can reach up to 6 feet tall (or larger), typically with long, arching, prickly canes and intensely fragrant flowers. Foliage is downy and light to grey-green. Summer Damasks have a short flowering season in summertime, and Autumn Damasks have a longer blooming period, typically extending into fall.

'Banshee'

'Blush'

'Celsiana'

'Gloire de Guilan'

'Hebe's Lip'

'Ispahan'

'Kazanlik'

'La Ville de Bruxelles'

'Leda'

'Madame A. Labbey'

'Madame Hardy'

'York and Lancaster'

Gallica Roses (Rosa gallica) (Gallic Rose, French Rose, Rose of Provins)
These roses do well in zones 2a-24, and produce fragrant springtime blooms. Roses range in color from pink through red to maroon and purple. Individual plants in this group can reach up to 3-4 feet tall, and have upright to arching canes that bear prickles. Leaves are dark green and typically rough. When grown on their own rootstock, they will spread into clumps via creeping rootstock.

'Beau Narcisse'

'Charles de Mills'

'Duc de Guiche'

'Duchesse de Montebello'

'Officinalis'

'President de Seze'

'Versicolor'

'Tuscany Superb'

'Black Magic'

'Black Magic'
'Double Red'
'Mutabilis'
'Old Blush'

Tea Roses (Rosa x odorata) (Tea-Scented Chinas)
These oriental cultivars do well in zones 6-9, 12-24, H1 and H2 and are long-lived in the garden. They do not respond well to heavy prunings, and produce flowers in a range of colors including white, cream light yellow, apricot, buff, pink, and rose-red. They are elegant shrubs, with sweet-scented flowers and a very long blooming time. They are relatively tender; not hardy in cooler climates. These flowering shrubs were used to create the modern Hybrid Tea roses.

'Duchesse de Brabant'

'Lady Hillingdon'

'Maman Cochet'

'Mrs. Foley Hobbs'

Bourbon Roses
This group of roses originates on the Ile Bourbon (now called Reunion) off the coast of Madagascar in the Indian Ocean, and were first introduced in France in 1820. Blooms range in color, but are typically white, shades of pink, or red.

'Boule de Neige'

'Coquette de Blanches'

'Coup d'Hebe'

'Great Western'

'Honorine de Brabant'

'Kronprinzessin Viktoria'

'La Reine Victoria'

'Louise Odier'

'Mme. Isaac Pereire'

'Mme. Pierre Oger'

'Pierre de St. Cyr'

'Queen of Bourbons'

'Souvenir de la Malmaison'

'Souvenir de St. Anne's'

'Souvenir de President Lincoln'

'Variegata di Bologna'

'Zephirine Douhin'

Portland Roses (Damask Perpetuals)
This group of roses gained in popularity in the early 1800s, and are hybrids between Damask Roses and Gallica Roses. The group was named after the Duchess of Portland, who received a rose that is now known as the 'Portland Rose' ('Scarlet Four Seasons'). The entire group was then developed from that cultivar. These roses do well in zones 2b-24, and are fairly short, shrubby repeat bloomers. Flowers are commonly fragrant.

'Arthur de Sansai'

'Bernard' (Pompon Perpetual)

'Blanc de Vibert'

'Comte de Chambord'

'Duchess of Portland'

'James Veitch'

'Palmyra'

'Pergolese'

'Rembrandt'

'Rose de Rescht'

'Rose de Roi'

'Rose de Roi Panache'

Hybrid Perpetual Roses (Hybrides Remontants, Reblooming Hybrids)
Best in zones 2b-24, these large, vigorous, hardy roses produce strongly fragrant flowers. They are hardy down to -30 degrees Fahrenheit. Flower color ranges from white through pink to red and maroon shades. These flowers typically are a little high-maintenance, needing more water and nutrients than others in the genus due to their reblooming nature.

'Alfred Colomb'

'Ardoisee de Lyon'

'Baron Girod de L'Ain'

'Baronne Prevost'

'Dupuy Jamain'

'Frau Karl Druschki'

'General Washington'

'La Reine'

'Paul Neyron'

'Tom Wood'

'Yolande d'Aragon'

Noisette Roses (
Best in milder climates, this group is filled with fragrant roses in white, pink and shades of red. They are best in zones 6-9. 12-24, H1 and H2.

'Aimee Vibert'

'Blush Noisette'

'Champney's Pink Cluster'

'Crepuscle'

'Lamarque'

'Louise d'Arzens'

'Mme Alfred Carriere'

Species Roses and Hybrids
This group of Roses includes those for many situations; these are the roses that most others are descendants of. They can take many forms, including climbers, shrubs, and groundcovers that will help control erosion in sloped areas of the landscape. Some are extremely vigorous and cold-hardy, as well.

Rosa banksiae (Lady Banks' Rose, Banks' Rose)
This is an evergreen climbing variety of Rose, and grows well in zones 4-24, H1 and H2. It is native to China, and quickly reaches 20 feet or more. This species is resistant to aphids and immune to disease. Large clusters of flowers appear in early to late spring and smell of Violets. This climber is great for covering banks, large areas of ground, fences, and arbors. Two varieties are commonly sold: 'Lutea' (with double yellow flowers), and Rosa banksiae banksiae (also called 'White Banksia' or 'Alba Plena', with violet-scented double white flowers).

Rosa bracteata (Macartney Rose)
This evergreen climber does very well in zones 4-9, 12-24, H1 and H2 (there are a few exceptions, noted in plant descriptions). These plants are native to southwest China and have naturalized in the eastern United States. Fowers are creamy white and about 2-3 inches in diameter. Blooms pop in springtime. These plants trail and root as they spread out; as a climbing rose, they can reach about 10-20 feet tall. Cultivar 'Mermaid' is vigorous and thorny, growing in zones 7-9, 12-24, H1 and H2. This variety does very well in partial shade, and blooms profusely spring through autumn. Plant 8 feet apart for a quick groundcover.

Rosa eglanteria (Rosa rubiginosa) (Sweet Briar, Eglantine)
This deciduous shrub or climbing rose plant grows well in zones A2, A3, and 1-24 and is native to Europe, western Asia, and northern Africa. It has naturalized in some areas of the western world, as well. It is a vigorous grower that will reach 12 feet tall and 8 feet wide. Stems are prickly and leaves are dark green, smelling of apples when crushed or bruised. Flowers are single and pink, about 2.5 inches across, and bloom in late springtime. These make great barrier or hedge plants (plant 3-4 feet apart for best coverage in these situations). Can be pruned to stay around 3-4 feet tall if desired.

Rosa foetida (Austrian Brier, Austrian Copper, Persian Yellow Rose)
This species is a deciduous shrub that grows well in zones A2, A3, and 1-21 and is native to central and western Asia. These plants commonly reach 6 feet tall and unfortunately are susceptible to black spot. Mid- to late-spring flowers are single, bright yellow, and between 2 and 3 inches across. Cultivar Rosa foetida bicolor reaches 4-5 feet tall and has brilliant copper-red flowers, and Rosa foetida persiana reaches 6 feet tall with fragrant double yellow flowers.

Rosa glauca (Rosa rubrifolia) (Red-Leaved Rose, Redleaf Rose)
This species forms a deciduous shrub and is native to southern and central Europe. It is best in zones A1-A3 and 1-24 and reaches 6 feet tall and a little less wide. Leaves are grey-green with coppery purple flushing or undertones. Springtime flowers are deep pink and single, with white centers and yellow anthers. Hips will turn red in cooler temperatures in autumn.

Rosa x harisonii (Harison's Yellow Rose)
Best in zones A2, A3, and 1-24 this old, deciduous rose species was brought to the West by early pioneers, and can still be seen around old farmhouses in California's Gold Country. These plants reach 6 feet tall and about 4 feet wide, and form thickets of thorny stems and foliage. The flowers bloom in late springtime and are bright yellow, semi-double and fragrant. This species is vigorous, cold-tolerant, and resistant to arid conditions.

Rosa moschata (Musk Rose)
These deciduous shrubs are great in zones 4-9, 12-24 and H1 and is native to Iran and Afghanistan. These plants reach 10 feet tall and about as wide, and is densely covered with medium green foliage that turns yellow in fall. Single ivory-white flowers bloom in clusters and bloom late spring through summer. Great fragrance. Cultivar Rosa moschata plena has double blossoms, but the interior fades before exterior petals do, creating a less effective floral show.

Rosa moyesii (Sealing Wax Rose)
Best in zones 3-10 and 14-21, native to Western China. These deciduous plants form loose shrubs that reach 10 feet tall and 8 feet wide. Springtime flowers are single and bright red, about 2.5 inches across. Blooms in pairs or singly. Bottle-shaped hips are large, and turn a beautiful bright red in fall and winter. Cultivar 'Geranium' has brilliant orange-scarlet flowers.

Rosa multiflora (Rosa ployantha) (Multiflora Rose, Japanese Rose, Baby Rose, Many-Flowered Rose, Seven-Sisters Rose, Eijitsu Rose, Rambler Rose)
Deciduous. Best in zones 1-24, and native to Japan. Dense, vigorous shrub with arching habit to 8-10 feet tall and wide. These plants have a susceptibility to mildew and spider mites. White small flowers bloom in profuse clusters in springtime, and smell of Honeysuckle. These shrubs are useful as hedges, and can help control erosion in problem areas. plant 2 feet apart for best coverage. Considered an invasive species in North America. Check with local resources before planting.

Rosa nutkana (Nootka Rose, Bristly Rose, Wild Rose)
These deciduous shrubs grow well in zones A1-A3, 1-11 and 14-21 and are native to Alaska down through northern California, and east towards the Rocky Mountains. Reaches 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide, and has semi-arching stems with grey-green leaves. Springtime blooms are single and deep pink in color. Roses are about 2.5 inches wide.

Rosa rugosa (Ramanas Rose, Sea Tomato, Beach Rose, Japanese Rose, Ramanas Rose, Letchberry)
Best in zones A1-A3 and 1-24, these shrubs are native to northern China, Siberia, Korea and Japan, and are vigorous shrubs with many prickles, but have great fragrant flowers. Reaching 3-6 feet tall and wide, these shrubs are deciduous. Leaves are bright green, glossy, and have heavy veining that gives foliage a crinkled look. Flowers range from single to double, are about 3-4 inches across, and range in color, blooming in spring, summer and early fall. Hips are reminiscent of bright red cherry tomatoes and reach an inch or more across. There are many popular varieties of this species, listed and described below.

'Blanc Double de Coubert'
With double white flowers.

'Frau Dagmar Hartopp'
Single pink flowers.

'Hansa'
Double purple-red flowers.

'Wildberry Breeze'
With single, clove-scented lavender-pink flowers.

Rosa sericea pteracantha (Silky Rose)
Deciduous shrub reaching 6-12 feet tall and wide, with ferny foliage. Best in zones 3b-11 and 14-21, and native to China, India and Myanmar. Flowers have four white petals each, and appear in May. Hips are red, orange or yellow. Prickles are large and red, giving stems a winged look.

Rosa wichurana (Memorial Rose)
This species of Rose grows well in zones 3-9, 12-24, H1 and H2 and is native to Japan, Korea, and China. Stems reach 10-12 feet long and will root when in contact with moist soil. Summertime flowers are white and up to 2 inches across. These plants make great groundcovers, even in areas with poor soil. Evergreen to partially evergreen.

Caring for and pruning Rose shrubs

Take care when planting these shrubs in the landscape, as many species produce sharp prickles that can puncture skin and clothing.

Choosing Roses
One of the most reliable ways to choose a rose species to grow in your garden is to visit a few local rose gardens and take notes on which roses they are growing. Varieties that are performing well are obviously good choices, and you'll be able to see these plants at their most attractive, healthy shape. Rose plants of the same species will perform differently in various climates. For example, a healthy 'Sally Holmes' rose grown in Seattle may present as a 5-foot tall shrub, but the exact same cultivar grown in southern California can take the form of a rambling, 35-foot wide giant. Another great way to find out which roses will grow the best in your given region is to head over to the experts at the American Rose Society.

In areas with mild winters, rose plants that have adapted to cooler climates will not flower as well. In areas with cool summer nights, roses with large numbers of petals will tend to 'ball' (open poorly, partially, or not at all). In the absence of good heat, darker-color flower varieties of roses will appear a bit muddy-colored rather than vibrant. In climates with fog or high humidity, roses will tend to have issues with mildew, rust, and black spot. Varieties with good disease resistance are a must for these areas. In areas with hot summer temperatures, flowers will open quickly, sometimes within just a few hours (instead of a couple of days). Rose varieties with red or yellow flowers in these hot areas will fade to white or get sunburn, and during periods of intense heat, some plants will go dormant and not bloom at all. The best blooming seasons for roses in very hot climates are in spring and fall.

In cold-weather climates, species with good cold-tolerance should be selected. In zones 1-3, hybrid teas, grandifloras, and floribundas will need a good amount of protection, though hardy hybrids can survive winters in these areas without much extra care. Many older varieties of roses (specifically those that flower primarily in springtime) and Rosa rugosa cultivars will also do well in this type of climate. The Nootka Rose is another notable species that is extra hardy, performing well in cold areas like Alaska.

Purchasing Roses
In general, mail-order catalogues or online vendors will offer the widest selection of rose species and their colorful, disease-resistant varieties. These sellers will also have the more rare varieties of roses. Nurseries and garden centers will also sell rose plants, and even supermarkets and big box stores can have a small selection to choose from. There are two main ways that rose plants are sold, either in a container or as a bare-root specimen. Container roses are grown and shipped in plastic nursery pots and are available from late winter through spring. These plants can be installed at any time of the year. Choose a plant that looks healthy, has a strong branching structure, and is in at least a 5-gallon pot. Avoid plants that have roots growing out through the bottom of the pot, or plants whose canes have clearly died back for some reason or another. These are both signs that these plants have been in their containers for too long, and they will have higher risks for issues like transplant shock.

Bare-root roses are sold in late winter and early springtime, and are dormant plants with no soil on the roots. These roses are commonly sold by mail-order or online nurseries, because they are more simple and lighter to ship. Although they do not have the same effect when newly planted, there are many advantages to purchasing a bare-root rose. First, they are generally less expensive, so you will be able to purchase more rare or in-demand roses for cheaper. Secondly, they will adapt to local soils more quickly, because they are not accustomed to the soil in a container. Bare-root plants are graded according to quality, and given a score of 1, 1 1/2, or 2. Grade 1 roses are the most commonly offered, and are often chosen to replace plants that have failed to grow. Healthy bare-root plants will have thick, green canes and have large clusters of sturdy, fibrous roots. Avoid or send back any bare-root specimens with squishy roots or dried, shriveled canes. There should be no leaves on bare-root plants. Purchase bare-root roses when they are newly listed; avoid bargain or marked-down ones, as these are probably a bit aged and may not transplant as well. In mild-winter zones, bare-root roses can be planted through the winter, though if the ground will freeze, plant in fall before freezing temperatures set in for the year and protect plants over the winter months or plant them in early springtime after the danger of frost has passed.

Budded vs. Own-Root Roses
Rose plants can either be grown on their own rootstock or be grafted. Many old roses, species roses and their hybrids, and miniature and shrub roses are all propagated on their own rootstock. However, about 70% of modern roses are budded onto a standard rootstock with disease resistance and other resiliencies. The current trend in the rose-development world, however, is to allow new varieties to grow on their own rootstock when feasible. Both budded and own-root roses will flower and perform well. Budded plants tend to be larger at the time of purchase, but both kinds will even out in size after about 2 years in the soil. An important advantage of own-root roses is that if the plant is killed back to the ground, it will regrow as the same rose. Regrowth from the roots of a budded plant, however, may not look anything like the rose originally purchased. Own-root roses also do not produce suckers.

Planting Roses
Choose a location in the landscape that receives full sun, ideally six or more hours of sun each day. Some rose varieties can be grown in partial shade, but the more sun rose shrubs receive, the more they will flower. In hot climates, make sure they have some late afternoon protection from sun. Do not plant roses under trees, where shade and falling branches can cause damage to the plant. Also, think about choosing a space that is protected from strong winds that can damage growth. Roses are not generally picky about the soil they are planted in, as long as it is well-draining. Rich loam is ideal, since they are heavy feeders. Make sure to amend soil before planting with plenty of organic material and/or compost for best results. They tolerate a soil pH of between 6.5 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). When spacing out plants, make sure to allow for the full size of the rose variety you have chosen. Although it may seem silly to space plants six feet apart when they are just a stick (in the case of bare-root roses), it is critical to the long-term health of plants. The more airflow around plants, the less issues they will have with fungal diseases like Black Spot and Powdery Mildew. Water deeply after installing, and apply a thick layer of mulch around the base, making sure the mulch stays at least a few inches away from the main stems. Mulching suppresses weed growth, helps to maintain consistent soil temperatures, and increases soil moisture retention. Newly planted roses should be watered at least once a week to develop a deep root system to form.

Pruning Roses
It is generally recommended that roses be pruned annually; doing so will contribute to the health, productivity, and longevity of rose plants. As in any pruning situation, the main goal is to produce strong growth that will flower well in the next season. There are a few notes to keep in mind while pruning roses that will help to ensure success:

Prune Conservatively. A vigorous, six-foot-tall shrub should not be taken all the way down to a foot tall, even in a situation where the plant needs to be rejuvenated. This rule does not apply to roses grown in areas that have severely cold weather (zones A2, A2, and 1-3). When roses are killed back to their base, it is recommended to remove all dead wood in spring, which may leave the plant with a pretty short haircut.
Prune at the Right Time. For most roses, the best time to prune is at the end of the dormant season in late winter or early springtime. When growth buds begin to swell (which typically happens sometime between mid-January in mild climates and April in cooler ones), it is time to prune. In climates or areas where late-season frosts occur, make sure to not prune too early. If another freeze rolls around after pruning has taken place, there is a good chance that any new growth will be killed.
Use Sharp Pruners to Remove the Correct Branches. Prune out wood that is dead, unproductive (no new growth emerging), or crossing. Also shape the shrub to make sure that it is not becoming lopsided. Remove all foliage from the plant to reduce the risk of disease and pest issues continuing into the next season. Then, cut back the previous season's growth by a third to a half, making cuts above outward-facing buds. The ideal resulting shrub is a V-shaped bush with a relatively open center.
Remove Suckers. Suckers are growth produced from the rootstock of a budded or grafted plant. They should be completely removed (down to their attachment to the main trunk or stem). Let any wounds air dry before replacing soil around them.

Keeping these general ideas in mind can go a long way in preventing mishaps and errors from occurring during rose-pruning activities. In addition to these tricks, there are also some specific pruning notes that should be considered for different types of roses, outlined below:

Hybrid Tea Roses and Grandifloras: These types can be pruned normally, according to the guidelines above.
Floribundas, Polyanthas, and Shrub Roses: These roses can be pruned according to the guidelines above, but the previous season's growth should only be cut back by 1/4 to 1/3. All strong canes should be left to develop over the season. For Polyanthas and Floribundas, remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the previous year's foliage (not all).
Old Roses and Species Roses: For varieties that bloom once per season, prune after blooms fade in late springtime. Repeat-bloomers can be pruned at the end of their dormant season. Most of these varieties will only require a light annual pruning, as long as they are not being grown in a cramped or crowded space in the garden. Remove dead or weak canes, and then prune the tip off of each remaining cane. If the center of the plant has become crowded over the past few years, remove a few old, woody canes down to their bases. Some roses in this group will produce long, arching canes. These varieties can be pruned in the same way as climbing roses.
Climbing Roses: Leave all of these vines to their own devices for the first three years they are in the ground. Train canes to be as horizontal as possible; this will stimulate the production of flowering branches. For spring-bloomers, prune after they have finished flowering, and remove all canes that do not have signs of strong new growth. For everblooming varieties and repeat bloomers, prune in late winter or early springtime. Remove the oldest, unproductive canes and any weak or twiggy growth. Cut back lateral branches on canes that remain so that they only have two or three buds. Take the time to remove any remaining foliage to stimulate heavy flowering.
Pillar Roses: These types of roses fall in the middle of climbers and bush types, and produce tall, flexible canes that bloom profusely without having to be trained horizontally (as climbing roses require). Prune them according to the general guidelines.
Standard Roses: Also called Tree Roses, these rose shrubs are budded onto a tall, bare understock stem. Follow the pruning guidelines for the rose type that forms the 'head' of the tree. Make sure to maintain a symmetrical planting, and prune harder on the weak side if it needs to be balanced out.
Miniature Roses: Follow the general guidelines for pruning roses, but cut back the height that was put on in the previous year by at least half, and remove all weak and twiggy stems.

Fertilizing Roses
Although it seems more straightforward to purchase and use a fertilizer made specifically for growing roses, compost is actually the best source of nutrients for rose plants. Using inorganic fertilizers can increase soil salts, which is not a good situation for rose plants over time. Compost promotes overall plant health and soil health, and can increase resistances to pests and diseases. When fertilizing, pull mulch back from around the base of the shrub or tree, and apply a 1-2 inch layer of compost. Work the compost into the soil if possible, making sure to not damage any roots. After it has been applied, replace the mulch around the base of the plant. Compost can be applied multiple times per year. The first application should take place in early springtime, around the time most roses are pruned. Additional feedings can be applied throughout the growing season, especially for re-blooming or everblooming types

Propagation

Rose shrubs and vines can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method, unless you are attempting to propagate a grafted rose (which is best completed via seed). If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant, especially if the Rose is a hybrid variety. To propagate your Rose shrub, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Rosa by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
In spring or fall, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 5-9 inch softwood portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. It is recommended to take more than one cutting, as only 25% to 50% of the cuttings will succeed in producing roots. Once cuttings are taken, make two fresh cuts on the bottom of the stem, just below a stem node (the bump where new growth emerges). Slice into the bottom about 1/4 inch, and then repeat, creating a quartered stem bottom.
Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing a pencil into the soil. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). A grow light can also be employed to ensure that the cutting is receiving adequate light. Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about two weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.

Propagating Rosa by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
Harvest your seeds. Rose seeds are contained inside of the fruits produced by plants, called 'hips'. These hips are commonly pruned off of plants when flowers fade; if the goal is to propagate rose shrubs via seed, these hips will need to be left to develop on the plant. Hips take about 4 months to mature; some will turn yellow or red when they are ripe, but many will continue to stay green. The hips can be opened as soon as they are harvested, or they can be stored unopened in a refrigerated container for several weeks before they are opened up for their seeds. Slice rose hips in half to harvest seeds. The pulp and outer shell of the fruit can be added to the compost pile. Make sure seeds are cleaned of any flesh from the fruit, as this will increase chances that the seed will attract mold and not be able to germinate.
Some Rose seeds will need a period of cold stratification in order to germinate. To complete this process, place the harvested rose seeds in a sealable container filled with moistened sand. Cover the seeds with more moist sand, and then seal the container and place it in the refrigerator. Leave the seeds in the fridge for between 6 and 10 weeks' time. When this period has passed, remove the container from the refrigerator and take the seeds out.
Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes six weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Rose seeds are contained inside of the berry fruits produced by plants, which are commonly called hips.

Rose seeds are typically relatively small and range in color from tan to brown.

Problems and Pests

Roses are a bit finicky in the garden, especially if they are grown in less-than-ideal conditions. The following pests and diseases can affect Rose shrubs, climbers, and groundcovers: