Rubus

( RUE - buss )

At-A-Glance Information

Commonly called Bramble, this genus of evergreen and deciduous shrubs includes species which need full sun to light shade and moderate water to perform and fruit well. These shrubs are named for their fruits, which include Raspberries, Bristleberries, Blackberries, Dewberries and Salmonberries. These plants need good drainage and will spread widely by rhizome. Use Rubus plants as hedges or groundcover, in wildlife or woodland gardens, or in edible gardens for their sweet fruits. Take care when planting these shrubs in the landscape, as some species have thorns that are quite sharp and can puncture clothing and skin.

Rubus Species and Varietals

The genus Rubus has over 1,350 species and is a member of the plant family Rosaceae. Plants in this genus are related to Fragaria (Strawberry), Rosa (Rose), and Potentilla (Cinquefoil). Bramble growing zones vary depending on the species cultivated; for more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Rubus aboriginum (Garden Dewberry, Aboriginal Dewberry, Native Blackberry, Aboriginal Raspberry)
These plants are rambling shrubs are native to the United States and Mexico. They reach up to 6 feet tall and just as wide, but are often kept much smaller in home garden spaces. Leaves have serrated edges and are green, and flowers are white. Fruits are similar in looks to small blackberries. Garden Dewberry is suited for growing in USDA hardiness zones 6-9.

Rubus allegheniensis (Allegheny Blackberry, Common Blackberry, Highbush Blackberry)
This variable species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 3-8 and forms thickets of plants that reach 5-8 feet tall when mature. These plants are shade intolerant, requiring full sun to perform well. Canes have many prickles. Flowers are white and berries that follow mature to deep violet-black in late summertime.

Rubus arcticus (Arctic Bramble, Arctic Raspberry, Nagoonberry, Nectarberry, Northern Blackberry, Nagoon Berry, Dwarf Raspberry)
These slow-growing brambles are native to arctic and alpine regions of the Northern Hemisphere. They have an unusual hardiness to frost and cold weather conditions, and produce pink, red, or magenta flowers followed by deep red to dark purple berries. They reach up to 6 to 12 inches tall and 1 to 3 feet wide at maturity, forming a scrambling low shrub that forms dense colonies. This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 2-6, and can handle extreme cold down to -50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Rubus armeniacus (Himalayan Blackberry, Armenian Blackberry)
These plants are native to Armenia and northern Iran and grow well in USDA hardiness zones 5-10. They are perennial plants that bear biennial canes, and have dark green foliage with pale to whitish undersides. Leaf margins are toothed. Flowers are light pink to white, and fruits are dark purple to black. This species is considered invasive in the western, midwestern and northeastern United States, where it thrives in roadsides, disturbed sites, and along streams and other waterways.

Rubus caesius (European Dewberry, Dewberry, Blue Bramble)
These plants have a wide native distribution across Eurasia, and form small shrubs up to 7 feet tall. Stems are biennial, and runners are sent out from plant bases that root at their tips to form new plants. Stems are blue-grey and sometimes prickly. Flowers are white, blooming from June through September, and fruits that follow are black. European Dewberry is suited for growing in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 8. This species is considered invasive in western New York, Michigan, Iowa, and Kentucky in the United States.

Rubus canadensis (Canadian Blackberry, Smooth Blackberry, Thornless Blackberry, Smooth Highbush Blackberry)
Native to central and eastern Canada and the eastern United States, these plants form thickets and reach up to 7-10 feet tall at maturity. Flowers are white, and berries are dark purple to black. Canes lack prickles. Canadian Blackberry shrubs thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3-8.

Rubus chamaemorus (Cloudberry, Nordic Berry, Bakeapple, Knotberry, Knoutberry, Aqpik, Low-Bush Salmonberry, Averin, Evron, Baked-Apple Berry, Chicouté)
This species is native to the Northern Hemisphere, where it grows in mountainous areas and moorlands. It is suited for growing in USDA hardiness zones 2-6 and forms a herbaceous perennial plant that reaches just 4-10 inches tall. White flowers are followed by pale red fruits that mature to amber in early fall.

Rubus cockburnianus (White-Stemmed Bramble, Ghost Bramble, White-Caned Blackberry, Central China Bramble, Central China Raspberry, Huà Zhōng Xuán Gōu Zi, 华中悬钩子)
This species is endemic to China, and forms a shrub that reaches up to 10 feet tall. Smaller branches are reddish, hairless, and waxy and leaves are green and woolly underneath. Flowers are white and fruits that follow are purple black and under a third of an inch long. The main cultivars of this species are 'Goldenvale' (also called 'Aureus', with bright gold-yellow foliage that matures to chartreuse, to 5-8 feet) and 'Razzle Dazzle' (with variegated pink, gold, and cream leaves and rose-purple flowers).

Rubus coreanus (Bokbunja, 복분자, Korean Blackberry, Korean Bramble, Korean Black Raspberry, Chā Tián Pāo, 插田藨, Tokkuri-ichigo,トックリイチゴ)
Native to Korea, Japan, and China, these plants are cultivated for their fruits which are fermented into wine. They are a bit finicky, and really only do well in cultivation in a specific range in Korea. Flowers are white and fruits are typically harvested between May and July.

Rubus flagellaris (Northern Dewberry, Common Dewberry, American Dewberry, Whiplash Dewberry, Northern Blackberry)
Native to Canada, the United States, and Mexico, these plants reach up to between 8 and 15 feet tall and produce green foliage. They are suited for growing in USDA hardiness zones 3-8. Flowers are white and berries emerge bright red and mature to black or dark purple. Tips of young stems will sometimes root where they touch soil. Fruits have a tart-sweet flavor.

Rubus fraxinifolius (Mountain Raspberry, Rogimot)
These shrubs are native to tropical islands in southeast Asia and are suited for USDA hardiness zones 10-12. They reach up to 6-10 feet tall, and typically grow on riverbanks and roadsides. Stems are furry, and foliage is green. Flowers are white, and fruits are present from December to March. Berries are orange-red and edible, though do not have much flavor. This species is considered invasive in the Mascarene Islands.

Rubus hispidus (Swamp Dewberry, Bristly Dewberry, Bristly Groundberry, Groundberry, Hispid Swamp Blackberry, Running Swamp Blackberry)
This North American species forms a shrubby plant that prefers to grow in moist to dry soils in open woods and ditches. Flowers form in small clumps and are white with narrow petals. Fruits that follow are dark purple-black. Berries are considered bitter for culinary use. Swamp Dewberry grows well in USDA hardiness zones 3-9.

Rubus idaeus (Raspberry, Red Raspberry, European Red Raspberry)
These red-fruited plants are native to Europe and northern Asia, though are cultivated in many areas around the world. They are vigorous perennial plants that reach up to over 8 feet tall and produce green foliage with toothed or serrated edges. Fruits are sweet and aromatic. Raspberries typically grow well in USDA hardiness zones 3-8 and have requirement of between 250 and 1,600 chill hours to break dormancy and set fruit properly. Cultivars of this species are listed and described below:

'Autumn Bliss'
Early-fall ripe medium-large fruits. Heavy yields. Everbearing/primocane. USDA hardiness zones 5-8; 200-400 CH.

'Anne'
Very sweet, large gold-yellow fruits on primocane stems. Everbearing. USDA zones 4-9; 300 CH.

'Boyne'
Summer-bearing red raspberry. To 4-6 feet tall. USDA zones 3-7; 800-1,000 CH.

'Caroline'
Everbearing with high yields of dark red berries and root rot tolerance. 4-6 feet. USDA zones 4-9; 200-300 CH.

'Double Gold'
Everbearing golden to coral berries with honey flavor. USDA hardiness zones 4-8; 800-1,000 CH.

'Eden'
Productive thornless with large firm sweet berries. Summer fruiting/floricane. USDA hardiness zones 4-8; 800-1,000 CH.

'Encore'
Late-season summer-bearing with large firm berries and nearly thornless canes. 4-6 feet tall. USDA zones 4-8; 800 CH.

'Fall Gold'
Amber-yellow sweet fruits with soft texture. USDA hardiness zones 3-9; 500-800 CH.

'Glen Ample'
Spineless with large, firm mid-summer berries. USDA hardiness zones 4-8; 1,200-1,400 CH.

'Heritage'
Red variety with crops in summer and fall. Everbearing. USDA zones 4-8; 250-300 CH.

'Himbo-Top'
Vigorous, everbearing with firm bright red berries. High yields. USDA zones 4-8; 800-1,700 CH.

'Joan J'
Almost thornless with large, sweet red berries. Fall bearing or everbearing. USDA zones 4-8; 800-1,700 CH.

'Latham'
Classic cold-hardy high-yield mid-summer fruits. 800-1,000 CH.

'Malling Minerva'
Compact (to 5 feet) with heavy yields in summertime. USDA zones 4-8; 800-1,200 CH.

'Malling Promise'
Vigorous with heavy crops of large, bright red berries in summertime. Best in USDA zones 5-9; 800-1,200 CH.

'Nova'
Cold-hardy summer-bearing red fruits. Very few prickles. 800-1,000 CH.

'Polana'
Early-fruiting; everbearing with sweet medium-large berries to 3 feet tall. 800-1,000 CH.

'Polka'
Autumn-fruiting with large bright red berries. USDA zones 4-8; 800-1,200 CH.

'Prelude'
Early crop of red raspberries with bonus crop in late summer-fall. USDA zones 4-8; 800-1,000 CH.

'Ruby Beauty'
Compact, thornless to 3 feet tall with sweet summer fruits. USDA zones 5-9; 800 CH.

Rubus laciniatus (Cutleaf Evergreen Blackberry, Evergreen Blackberry, Cutleaf Blackberry, Parsley-Leaved Bramble)
Native to Eurasia, these plants are considered invasive in many other areas of the world. They are deciduous plants, and form shrubs up to 10 feet tall with palmately compound leaves. Fruits are similar to common blackberries, with a fruitier flavor. This species performs well in USDA hardiness zones 4-9 and requires 300-500 CH. This species is considered invasive across much of North America and Australia.

Rubus leucodermis (Whitebark Raspberry, Blackcap Raspberry, Blue Raspberry, Western Raspberry, Black Raspberry)
These plants are native to western North America, and form deciduous shrubs up to 1.5-8 feet tall. Tips of canes will root and form layers that become new plants. Fruits are up to 1/2 inch in diameter and are red to reddish-purple, maturing to black. They are sweet-tart, rich, and intensely flavored. This species requires 800-1,000 CH to produce a good crop of berries and grows well in USDA hardiness zones 5-9.

Rubus lineatus (Silky Leaved Berry, Silky Leaved Bramble, Silky-Haired Hanging-Hook Raspberry, Juàn Máo Xuán Gōu Zi, 绢毛悬钩子, Mâm Xôi, đùm đũm)
Semi-evergreen to deciduous shrub with a climbing habit. Stems are wooly and leaves are palmate with five leaflets. They are deep green above and glossy silky below. Flowers are small and white and fruits that follow are small and red or yellow. This species is native to southern China, Tibet, Myanmar, Nepal, Vietnam, and regions of Malesia and grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7-11.

Rubus occidentalis (Black Raspberry, Bear's Eye Blackberry, Black Cap, Black Cap Raspberry, Scotch Cap, Wild Black Raspberry, Blackcap)
These deciduous shrubs are native to eastern areas of North America, and reach between 6.6 and 10 feet tall when mature. Canes can be upright or arching and have curved, sharp thorns. These plants are suited for growing in USDA hardiness zones 4-8 and require 800 to 1,000 chill hours to produce a good crop. Cultivars are listed and described below:

'Black Hawk'
Late-season with large, firm sweet berries.

'Bristol'
Vigorous and hardy with large sweet black fruits.

'Cumberland'
Heritage cultivar with wine-sweet fruits.

'Dundee'
Early to mid-season with bright, flavorful fruits.

'Jewel'
Productive with glossy medium-sized fruits. Good disease resistance.

'Logan'
Trailing canes and elongated deep red berries with rich, tart-sweet flavor. Mid-late summer. Requires 800-1,600 CH.

'Munger'
Commercial standard for the PNW. Sweet high-quality fruits. Requires 500-1,000 CH.

Rubus odoratus (Purple-Flowered Raspberry, Flowering Raspberry, Virginia Raspberry, Thimbleberry, Purple-Flowering Raspberry, Eastern Mapleleaf Raspberry)
These plants are native to eastern North America, and reach up to 10 feet tall. Stems are perennial, not biennial, and do not have thorns. Flowers are magenta (occasionally white) and bloom from early spring through fall. Fruits are red and mature in late summer and fall. This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 3-8.

Rubus parviflorus (Thimbleberry, Redcap, Western Thimbleberry)
These plants are native to temperate zones in North America, and form shrubs up to 8 feet tall with thin canes. Flowers are white with pale yellow stamens, and berries that follow are edible and bright red, mature in mid- to late summer. Thimbleberry grows well in USDA hardiness zones 3-9.

Rubus pensilvanicus (Pennsylvania Blackberry, Eastern Blackberry, Sawtooth Blackberry, Dewberry, Blackberry)
These prickly plants are native to eastern and central North America. Canes emerge green and mature to dark red, and leaves are green. Flowers are white, and emerge in the middle of spring, followed by edible red berries that mature to black. Pennsylvania Blackberry grows well in USDA hardiness zones 4-8.

Rubus phoenicolasius (Japanese Wineberry, Wine Raspberry, Wineberry, Dewberry, Lobster-Shell Raspberry, Shrimp-Shell Raspberry, Ebigara-ichigo, 海老殻苺, エビガライチゴ, White-Backed Raspberry, Urajiro-ichigo, 裏白苺, ウラジロイチゴ, Multi-Glandular Raspberry, 多腺悬钩子)
These plants are native to China, Japan, and Korea and have been introduced to many areas of North America. They are suited for USDA hardiness zones 4-9 and are perennials that bear green leaves, white flowers, and orange-red edible berries in summer to early fall. This species is considered invasive across the eastern, mid-Atlantic, and southern regions of the United States.

Rubus pubescens (Dwarf Red Blackberry, Dwarf Red Raspberry, Dewberry, Dwarf Raspberry, Trailing Raspberry, Plumboy, Pigeonberry)
These herbaceous perennial plants are widespread across Canada and the northern United States. They are subshrubs that reach up to 12 inches tall. Flowers are white, and are followed by shiny red fruits in early July. Fruits are sweet and juicy, used in jellies and jams. Dwarf Red Blackberry grows well in USDA hardiness zones 2-7.

Rubus rolfei (Rubus pentalobus, Rubus calycinoides, Rubus hayata-koidzumii) (Creeping Raspberry, Crinkle-Leaf Creeper, Taiwanese Creeping Bramble, Taiwan Creeping Bramble)
This commonly-grown species is evergreen and grows well in USDA hardiness zones 6-10 or Sunset growing zones 4-6 and 14-17. It is native to the mountains of Taiwan and has thickly foliaged stems that spread to form a dense carpet about a foot tall. Flowers are small and white, and are followed by salmon-colored berries. Cultivars include 'Emerald Carpet' (with red fall color and orange-red fruits) and 'Golden Quilt' (with gold foliage, white flowers, and yellow fruits).. This species makes a great groundcover in low or no-traffic areas of the garden.

Rubus saxatilis (Stone Bramble, Roebuck Berry, Stoneberry)
Widespread across much of Eurasia, these wild plants produce green foliage and loosely aggregate red fruits. These plants typically form dense clumps of plants, spreading by runners. The berries are edible raw or cooked, and have an acidic flavor. This species grows well in USDA hardiness zones 4-8.

Rubus spectabilis (Salmonberry)
This species of Bramble is native to the Pacific Northwest region of North America, and bears edible fruits. It is suited for growing in USDA hardiness zones 3-9. Plants reach up to 13 feet tall with a 30-foot wide spread at maturity. Foliage is green, and flowers are pinkish-purple and bloom in April and May. Fruits that follow are typically harvested May through late July and are orange-red in color. These plants require 300 to 600 chill hours to properly break dormancy and set fruits. This species is considered invasive in the United Kingdom and Ireland.

Rubus ulmifolius (Elmleaf Blackberry, Thornless Blackberry, Zarzamora)
Native to Europe and North Africa, these plants are suited for USDA hardiness zones 5-9. The species forms a brambly shrub that has the potential to reach up to 17 feet tall when mature. Leaves are palmately compound and green, and flowers are typically pink (sometimes white). Fruits are dark purple to black; plants have a requirement of 200-300 chill hours to produce a full crop. This species is considered invasive in the United States (California), Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Argentina, and islands like Hawai'i and the Galápagos.

Rubus ursinus (California Blackberry, California Dewberry, Douglas Berry, Pacific Blackberry, Pacific Dewberry, Trailing Blackberry)
These plants are widespread in the western areas of North America, and forms a mounding shrub or vining plant to between 2 and 5 feet tall. Branches are prickly and root where they touch soil. Flowers are white with narrow petals and fruits that follow mature to deep red. California Blackberry grows well in USDA hardiness zones 3-10 and has a requirement of 200 to 400 chill hours to produce a full crop.

Caring for rubus

Take care when planting these shrubs in the landscape, as some species have thorns that are quite sharp and can puncture clothing and skin. These plants will form spreading colonies over time via underground rhizome roots and stems that root where they touch soil; if planting in a smaller garden or to simply curb this tendency, consider installing a heavy duty root barrier installed 18 to 24 inches deep and extending a few inches above the soil line to prevent roots from jumping over. Plant Bramble shrubs in full sun; ideally they should be getting between 6 and 8 hours of sun per day for best growth, flowering and fruiting. Groundcover types should be planted about 2 feet apart for best coverage and airflow. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 6.0 and 6.8 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. Water these shrubs regularly, especially during the warm, dry months of the year. Deep, infrequent waterings are better than shallow, frequent waterings. Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to increase soil moisture retention.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is essential to manage the growth of these shrubs; they are best pruned shortly after they finish flowering and fruiting. Good pruning can also improve air circulation in the center of the plant, and promote increased flowering and fruiting. Remove diseased or dead canes whenever they appear. An issue with some species of Rubus is that they can get a bit unmanageable; they spread via suckers seemingly indefinitely. This issue can be partially solved by planting your Rubus shrub in a container, but even then, sometimes the plant will escape and start colonizing the garden. Monitor these shrubs on a consistent basis to assess for needed control measures. Rubus, or Bramble, can be expected to survive in the landscape for decades, and will freely spread through layering and suckering.

Caring for Rubus in Containers
Rubus shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers, which can allow patio gardeners to care for these edible plants as well as curb their somewhat invasive tendency. Rubus can grow through the drainage holes in the bottom of pots and invade garden soil, so make sure to set pots in trays or keep them over hardscaped areas. Dwarf or compact cultivars are ideal for container cultivation, including Rubus idaeus 'Raspberry Shortcake', 'Ruby Beauty', and 'Summer Sunshine' or Rubus rolfei 'Emerald Carpet'. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball; at maturity these plants appreciate a container that is at least 15 to 20 gallons. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Rubus plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Harvesting Rubus
Many species of Rubus are cultivated primarily for their edible aggregate fruits that mature in summer and fall. Depending on the species grown, these fruits can be called Blackberries, Raspberries, Dewberries, Salmonberries, Stoneberries or Thimbleberries. Plants are typically productive for 10 to 20 years, and individual canes are productive for a year or two. Plants will begin to produce in their second year of growth and reach peak production by age three. Berry picking should occur every two to three days during peak season to catch ripe fruit before it spoils or is harvested by wildlife. The best time to harvest is in the morning after dew dries but before the heat of the day sets in. Use harvesting containers that are shallow; stacking too many berries on top of each other can damage berries towards the bottom. Hand-pick fruits that have attained their full deep uniform color, which can be black, red, peach, pink, gold, or blue-purple depending on the cultivar. Give each berry a soft pull or gentle roll; ripe fruits should separate effortlessly from the central core or plug. Berries that are unripe (they resist pulling away or have not attained their full color) will not ripen further once taken off the vine. Do not wash berries until ready to use or consume them to prevent the development of mold. Store berries in shallow containers in a dry, cool area like a refrigerator set to between 32 and 36 degrees Fahrenheit. Harvested fruits can be stored for 2 to 7 days in the fridge. They can also be frozen in single-layer batches in the freezer and stored frozen in storage bags for 8 to 12 months. They remain safe to eat as long as they are frozen, but color, quality and texture declines after about a year. Consume or use in 2 to 3 days once thawed; do not re-freeze.

Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.

Propagation

Rubus shrubs can be propagated in many different ways: cutting, division, seed, and layering. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Rubus, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Rubus by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of Rubus cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Cuttings can be taken either in wintertime after plants have shed their foliage or in summertime. In winter, select dormant wood that is at least one year old. In summertime, select healthy first-year growth (primacane).
Cut one or more 6 to 8 inch hardwood portion(s) of a cane, making sure each cutting includes at least 3 to 4 leaf nodes. Strip the leaves off of the lower portion, leaving one or two small leaves at the top. Make a hole in the planting medium by pushing a pencil into the soil.
Identify the polarity (top vs. bottom) of the cutting. Buds sit just above leaf scars and point upward. Dip the bottom end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in the pot so that 2/3 of the cutting is under the soil surface. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. The cutting(s) should be kept in warm, indirect light conditions. Water whenever soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, the cutting should be rooted. When there is above-ground new growth on the cutting, it generally means that it is putting out roots.
Keep the new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home outdoors after the last frost of the year passes.

Propagating Rubus by Division
For Rubus shrubs, division refers more to separation of individual root suckers or 'shoots' that emerge naturally from lateral roots than traditional whole plant root-ball division. This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil, compost, gloves and other protective wear and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in late winter or early springtime. To propagate Rubus by division, follow these steps:

Dawn protective gear (to avoid injury from plant prickles) and gather your materials. Identify healthy, standalone green shoots or new canes emerging from the ground a short distance away from the main plant.
Carefully dig around the base of the sucker with a spade or trowel to expose the underground lateral root connecting it to the main plant and cut it cleanly with pruners or a sharp spade.
Continue to work the sucker up out of the ground along with as much of its fibrous root system still attached as possible.
Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your division and water it in.
Using sharp, clean shears or snips, remove the top half to two thirds of the plant to reduce moisture stress on the new independent root system.
Apply a thick layer of mulch around the new plant and protect it from high winds and heat as it establishes itself.

Propagating Rubus by Layering
Layering is a very common way of propagating Rubus shrubs, as plants produce canes which will readily root where they touch soil. The process begins in late summertime, and requires a trowel and landscape staples. To layer a Rubus plant, follow the instructions below:

Identify a healthy cane that is in its first year of growth. Bend it down towards the soil and identify a node 6-12 inches back from the growing tip where it can be stapled to the soil. Mark a corresponding spot in the soil.
Make a 3 to 4 inch deep hole at the soil mark and then bend the cane down to the hole. Staple it down so that the tip faces upward, and then fill the hole in with soil and mound it. Water the area, and continue to provide regular waterings as the new plant establishes itself.
In early springtime of the following year, check for the development of a strong root system by digging around the outside of the new plant. If the root system looks established enough to survive on its own, continue to dig around the plant and identify the stem that connects it to its parent plant.
Sever the parent plant stem, leaving about 6 inches attached to the new plant. Then, finish pulling the new plant out of the ground, and replant it in a new space in the garden or in a container.
Using sharp, clean shears or snips, remove the top half to two thirds of the plant to reduce moisture stress on the new independent root system.
Apply a thick layer of mulch around the new plant and protect it from high winds and heat as it establishes itself.

Propagating Rubus by Seed

To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
Harvest your fruit. Rubus seeds are contained inside of the fruit; there are many seeds per individual fruit (it is an aggregate fruit). Remove the seeds from the fruit with a knife, or smash the fruit and extract the seeds. Rinse the seeds to remove any remaining flesh and set them aside.
Rubus seeds require a period of cold-stratification in order to germinate successfully. To complete this process, place seeds in a bag or other sealable container filled with moistened sand or peat moss. Then, place the container in the refrigerator (or similarly cool, dark space) for 2 to 3 months. The ideal temperature for cold-stratification is around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. After the cold stratification period has passed, remove seeds from the container to sow them.
Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes between one and six months from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled (about two weeks after they have sprouted), transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep the new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Rubus fruits contain anywhere from 20 to 60 or more seeds. Each individual drupelet contains a single seed.

Rubus seeds are small and hard. They are commonly irregularly angled.

Problems and Pests

Certain Rubus species are considered invasive in some regions; see the species descriptions above for more information. Check with local authorities before planting. These shrubs can be susceptible to various pests and diseases, including: