Tricyrtis
( trye - SURT - iss )
At-A-Glance InformationAlso called Toad Lily or Hairy Toad Lily, this genus of flowering plants needs partial shade and ample water to perform well in the landscape. They are woodland plants that have heavily spotted flowers with decorative stamens. The genus has a native range from the Himalayas to eastern Asia. These herbaceous perennials have creeping rhizome roots and over time form colonies of plants. Stems are typically erect, and hold campanulate or trumpet-shaped flowers. Take care when planting these beautiful flowers in the garden, as all plant parts are toxic to humans and pets if ingested.
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Tricyrtis Species and Varietals
The genus Tricyrtis is a member of the plant family Liliaceae, and includes around 20 species. The best growing zones for Toad Lily vary depending on the species; for more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Tricyrtis formosana (Tricyrtis stolonifera) (Formosan Toad Lily) This species grows well in zones 3-9 and 14-17, and is native to Taiwan. It reaches 2.5 feet tall and spreads by runners to form a 1.5 foot wide clump. Leaves are green and marked with dark green. Flower buds are brown or maroon and open to reveal pale lilac to white flowers that are spotted with violet. Varieties include 'Amethystina' (which blooms earlier than the species with lavender flowers that have red-spotted throats), and 'Samurai' (a compact variety that blooms late into fall and has yellow-edged leaves). |
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Tricyrtis hirta (Toad Lily, Hairy Toad Lily) Native to Japan, this flower grows best in zones 2-9 and 14-18. It reaches 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide, and does not produce runners. Leaves are pale green and flowers are white to pale lilac, marked with purple. Varieties include 'Miyazaki' (with pink to white flowers with crimson spots) and 'Miyazaki Gold' (with gold-edged leaves). |
Caring for Tricyrtis
Plant Tricyrtis, or Toad Lilies, in a space in springtime for late summer to fall blooms. Space them 18-24 inches apart for best coverage and airflow, with the growing tips pointed upwards, sitting just below the soil level. They are typically purchased either as bare roots or as specimens from reputable nurseries. Plant in partial to full shade. Naturally, these lilies grow at the edges of forested areas where they receive dappled sun. If in an area with particularly hot weather in summertime, plant them in more shade. Ensure that soil is fertile, well-draining, and has a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, Tricyrtis flowers enjoy a consistently moist, but not soggy, soil. Withhold water while these plants are dormant in the winter months, and mulch over the top of roots to insulate from cool temperatures.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. These plants are not heavy feeders, and this should be sufficient to provide the necessary nutrients for the active growing and flowering seasons. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Every few years, if flowering and overall performance are beginning to decline, it is a good idea to divide Toad Lilies. For instructions on how to successfully divide Tricyrtis, see the Propagation section below.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. These plants are not heavy feeders, and this should be sufficient to provide the necessary nutrients for the active growing and flowering seasons. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Every few years, if flowering and overall performance are beginning to decline, it is a good idea to divide Toad Lilies. For instructions on how to successfully divide Tricyrtis, see the Propagation section below.
Propagation
Tricyrtis, or Toad Liliy, can be propagated by division, cutting or seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division or cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant, especially if you are propagating a hybrid cultivar. To propagate your Toad Lilies, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Tricyrtis by Seed
Propagating Tricyrtis by Cutting
Propagating Tricyrtis by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
Propagating Tricyrtis by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. The seed heads on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
- Tricyrtis seeds will need a period of cold-stratification in order to germinate. To complete this process, first place seeds in a bag or other sealable container filled with moistened sand or peat moss. Then, place the container in the refrigerator (or similarly cool, dark space) for 2-3 months. The ideal temperature for cold-stratification is around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. After this period has passed, remove seeds from the container.
- Get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-6 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Propagating Tricyrtis by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
- In early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 3-4 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new plant.
Propagating Tricyrtis by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
- Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the root(s). Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
- Start to tease apart the roots with your gloved fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick root section attached.
- Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divisions and water thoroughly.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout in the next growing season.
Problems and Pests
Tricyrtis plants can be susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases in the landscape:
- Slugs and Snails
- Mosaic Virus
- Leaf Spot
- Root Rot
- Powdery Mildew
Gallery
Videos
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Check out these Toad Lilies.
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How to grow Toad Lilies in your garden.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 637, Tricyrtis