x Fatshedera

Fatshedera

( fat - sheh - DEHR - uh )

At-A-Glance Information

This small genus of evergreen shrubs includes species commonly called Bush Ivy, Tree Ivy, or Aralia Ivy. These plants are sterile hybrids created in Nantes, France in 1912. Large-leafed and water-loving, they like some shade or bright indirect light (if grown indoors). Leaves are glossy and bright green, and flower stalks carry yellow flowers. They are somewhat climbing shrubs, though cannot hold onto structures themselves and will need a good amount of training and attachment help to form a vine-like habit if desired. Take care when planting these in the garden, as plant parts are toxic to humans and animals if ingested.

x Fatshedera Varietals

The hybrid genus x Fatshedera contains only one species: x Fatshedera lizei, and is a member of the family Araliaceae. The plants in this group are the results of a cross between Fatsia japonica (Japanese Fatsia) and Hedera helix (English Ivy). Aralia Ivy grows best in USDA hardiness zones 7b-10 or Sunset growing zones 4-10, 14-24, H1 and H2. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

'Angyo Star'
With creamy white leaf margins.

'Annemieke' ('Anna Mikels')
Leaves with striking yellow variegation. Also called 'Lemon Lime'.

'Argenteum'
Smaller, deep green leaves marbled with grey-green and white.

'Aureomaculata' (Leopard Plant)
With thick, leathery leaves that are evenly flushed with yellow.

'Crispatum' ('Pia')
This species is sometimes called 'Pie Crust Ligularia', and has thick, ruffled leaves edged in grey-green.

'Pixie'
Compact form similar to 'Crispatum' with smaller foliage.

'Variegata'
Leaves have cream to whitish margins.

Caring for x Fatshedera

Take care when planting these in the garden, as plant parts are toxic to humans and animals if ingested. Plant Fatshedera in a space in the landscape that receives partial to full shade; ideally, they appreciate filtered or reflected sunlight. Protect from harsh, afternoon sun and high winds, which can dry out and damage plant leaves and stems. If planting as a groundcover or to fill in a border or bed, space plants about 3-6 feet apart. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 5.5 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants perform well in consistently moist soils. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch or two of soil feels dry to the touch. Lessen waterings in wintertime when plants are dormant, but do not allow soil to dry out completely. Mist around plants or keep them near water features to maintain a moderate to high humidity.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. To encourage more branching and a bushier structure, pinch back new growth. To prune into a climber, pinch off growth to encourage branching; stems will not naturally branch on their own. Provide with a trellis, fence, or wall to climb, manually attaching stems to the structure as the plant grows. Fatshedera plants do not adhere to structures on their own. These plants are considered long-lived perennials, and are able to survive in the landscape for several decades in the landscape before needing to be replaced.

Caring for Fatshedera in Containers
Fatshedera climbing shrubs do well in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Mature Fatshedera plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. To encourage more branching and a bushier structure, pinch back new growth. To prune into a climber, pinch off growth to encourage branching; stems will not naturally branch on their own. Provide with a trellis, fence, or wall to climb, manually attaching stems to the structure as the plant grows. Fatshedera plants do not adhere to structures on their own. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Caring for Fatshedera Indoors
Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite. Place the container in a space that receives bright, indirect light and is sheltered from any strong drafts (keep away from vents and air conditioners). They like well-draining soil that is kept moist. Avoid overwatering indoor plants, and ensure that the temperature is not getting too warm (especially if the plant is grown by a sunny window). These plants prefer to be in a space that remains between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Mist plants every so often to maintain a moderate humidity. To encourage more branching and a bushier structure, pinch back new growth. To prune into a climber, pinch off growth to encourage branching; stems will not naturally branch on their own. Provide with a structure to climb, manually attaching stems as the plant grows. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Propagation

Aralia Ivy is sterile, and therefore cannot be propagated via seed, making propagation by cutting the main method of reproducing these plants. To propagate via cutting, follow the instructions below:

Propagating x Fatshedera by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, and a 3-5 inch pot filled with sphagnum peat moss.
In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Keep planting medium moist. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the planting medium stays moist but not wet, until the plant has reached an adequate size to be transplanted to a larger pot, or planted in its forever home in your garden.

Problems and Pests

Tree Ivy is generally pest free, but they can be susceptible to developing issues with the following from time to time if growing conditions are not ideal: