Abelmoschus
( ay - bel - MOS - kus )
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At-A-Glance InformationThis small genus of perennial and annual herbaceous plants, commonly called Okra, was formerly included in the Hibiscus genus, and are closely related to the flowering ornamentals. Individual plants typically reach around 6 feet tall when mature, and produce white to yellow flowers with red or purple spots at each petal base. Fruits are capsules containing numerous seeds, and are commonly consumed as a vegetable. Fruits are harvested while they are immature, and young leaves are also edible. Grow Okra plants as either edibles or ornamentals in mixed beds and borders, in vegetable gardens, and along fences (these plants typically require some staking or trellising for support).
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Abelmoschus Species and Varietals
The genus Abelmoschus is a member of the plant family Malvaceae, and includes around fifteen distinct species. The best growing zones for Okra are 1-25, H1 and H2. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Abelmoschus caillei (West African Okra) These plants are native to humid areas in western and central Africa, where it is cultivated as a vegetable crop. It forms an erect, stout herbaceous plant 60-65 inches tall and produces yellow to pink flowers. Stems can be green, red, or a combination of the two colors. Leaves are green and lobed. These plants are cultivated for their young leaves (eaten as Spinach) and young fruits (which are typically cooked or fried). Ongoing contact with the plant and its fruits may cause skin irritation. |
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Abelmoschus esculentus (Lady's Fingers, Okra, Gumbo) This species is native to East Africa, and is cultivated in tropical, subtropical, and warm temperate regions worldwide. The green seed pods produced by these plants are edible, and are featured in the cuisines of many cultures. These are perennial plants, cultivated as annuals in more temperate climates, and produce large leaves and white to yellow flowers with red or purple spots at petal bases. |
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Abelmoschus ficulneus (White Wild Musk Mallow, Native Rosella) This species is native to East Africa, Madagascar, Indomalaya, and Northern Australia. It is a fibrous, perennial plant that grows from a woody stem. Leaves are palmate and green, and flowers are white or pink with rosey throats. Plants reach between 2 and 5 feet tall when mature, and spread to up to 6 feet wide. |
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Abelmoschus manihot (Aibika, Sunset Muskmallow, Sunset Hibiscus, Hibiscus Manihot, Tropic Jewel Hibiscus) This species is native to Asia, Malesia, New Guinea, and Queensland, where it is cultivated and consumed as a leaf vegetable. These plants can reach over 10 feet tall, and are popular home garden and horticulture plants. |
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Abelmoschus moschatus (Abelmosck, Abrette, Annual Hibiscus, Bamia Moschata, Balu Gasturi, Muskdana, Musk Mallow, Musk Okra, Ornamental Okra, Rose Mallow, Tropical Jewel Hibiscus, Yorka Okra) These plants produce very sweet, flowery-scented seeds and are frost-hardy, despite their mostly tropical distribution. Plants are used to flavor tobacco and coffee and as vegetables. |
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Caring for Abelmoschus
Plant Abelmoschus in a place in the garden that receives full sun; between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day is ideal for best production. If plants are too shaded, they tend to get leggy, not flower as well, and will not fruit as profusely. Ensure that soil is well-draining before planting; if local soils are overly clay or compacted (or if they are poor in nutrients), make sure to amend the planting site with plenty of organic material and/or compost to make it so. They are tolerant of a wide range of soil acidity, but do prefer it to be in the range of 6.0 and 6.8 for best performance and production. Okra typically develops and produces best in climates with warm nights, and prefer that temperatures remain between 68 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit during the growing season. These plants can either be grown from seed or purchased as starts from reputable nurseries. If growing from seed, make sure that the soil is warm (over 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit) before sowing and that the last frost date of your area has passed by. Springtime is a great time to plant Okra. Alternatively, seeds can be sown indoors and transplanted after the weather heats up. Soak seeds in lukewarm water for about 24 hours before planting; this will increase germination rates. Any seeds that float can be discarded, as well as seeds that do not 'swell up' as a result of the water bath. Place seeds 9-12 inches apart, and allow 3-6 feet of space between rows. Seeds should be sown at a depth of 3/4 and 1 inch. Plant multiple seeds per hole to ensure a good stand, and thin out extra or weak seedlings as they sprout. Germination should take between 6 and 18 days.
These plants are considered to be easy to take care of, and mature quite quickly, especially in hot-weather areas. They typically reach a mature height of between 4 and 5 feet tall, and begin to produce pods in around 60 days. Newly installed plants should be watered regularly to help them establish a strong root system. Mature plants can tolerate both drought and heat, but these extremes will affect production. They need about 1.5 inches of water every 10 days during their most productive season. A deep soaking once every 7 to 10 days should be sufficient. These plants don't typically need to be fertilized during the growing season, as long as local soils are moderately fertile when the plants are installed or seeds are sown.
Harvesting Okra
Several species of Abelmoschus are edible, with both young seed pods and young leaves consumed as vegetables. The most commonly cultivated species for this purpose in the genus is Abelmoschus esculentus (Okra). Recommended varieties include 'Clemson Spineless', and 'Blondy' (a more compact variety with whitish pods). Plants can be harvested for several weeks throughout the summertime, and pods are typically harvested when immature, just after flowers have faded. There is about a four-day window from flowering to harvesting the Okra pod that results. They can be harvested every few days to every other day by simply cutting them from their attachment to the plant with clean, sharp garden shears or a knife. Typically, pods are harvested when they reach between 2 and 3 inches long. If pods reach a length more than 5 inches, they tend to get tough and woody, although there are some varieties that can be left on the plant longer and still keep their tenderness. After harvesting, either use the pods fresh, or refrigerate them. The pods are great in stews, gumbos, or fried as a side dish. They can also be picked, steamed, or frozen for later use. They will last for about a week in the refrigerator for and frozen for about a year (if whole) or nine months (if pre-sliced).
These plants are considered to be easy to take care of, and mature quite quickly, especially in hot-weather areas. They typically reach a mature height of between 4 and 5 feet tall, and begin to produce pods in around 60 days. Newly installed plants should be watered regularly to help them establish a strong root system. Mature plants can tolerate both drought and heat, but these extremes will affect production. They need about 1.5 inches of water every 10 days during their most productive season. A deep soaking once every 7 to 10 days should be sufficient. These plants don't typically need to be fertilized during the growing season, as long as local soils are moderately fertile when the plants are installed or seeds are sown.
Harvesting Okra
Several species of Abelmoschus are edible, with both young seed pods and young leaves consumed as vegetables. The most commonly cultivated species for this purpose in the genus is Abelmoschus esculentus (Okra). Recommended varieties include 'Clemson Spineless', and 'Blondy' (a more compact variety with whitish pods). Plants can be harvested for several weeks throughout the summertime, and pods are typically harvested when immature, just after flowers have faded. There is about a four-day window from flowering to harvesting the Okra pod that results. They can be harvested every few days to every other day by simply cutting them from their attachment to the plant with clean, sharp garden shears or a knife. Typically, pods are harvested when they reach between 2 and 3 inches long. If pods reach a length more than 5 inches, they tend to get tough and woody, although there are some varieties that can be left on the plant longer and still keep their tenderness. After harvesting, either use the pods fresh, or refrigerate them. The pods are great in stews, gumbos, or fried as a side dish. They can also be picked, steamed, or frozen for later use. They will last for about a week in the refrigerator for and frozen for about a year (if whole) or nine months (if pre-sliced).
Propagation
Abelmoschus plants can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Okra, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Abelmoschus by Cutting
Propagating Abelmoschus by Seed
Propagating Abelmoschus by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost, and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in summertime. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
Propagating Abelmoschus by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
- In summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6-8 inch portion(s) of the end of a branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about two to four weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until plants reach between 2 and 4 weeks of age, when you can transplant them to their new home out in the garden. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your young new plants.
Propagating Abelmoschus by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. If you would like to ensure that there is no cross pollination, plant different varieties at least 500-1,600 feet apart and consider using mesh bags to cover intentionally pollinated flowers. Plants are monoecious, meaning that they can self-pollinate, and have both male and female parts on the same plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. The seed pods on these plants are pretty easy to spot, they're large and dangle from the branches, left behind after flowers have faded. Although Okra is typically harvested when pods are young for consumption, if seeds are required for propagation, fruits need to be allowed to dry on the plant. When the pods can be shaken and there is an audible rattling noise inside, it is time to harvest them for their seeds. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will begin to split open and release the seeds contained inside. If this process is not happening or it needs to be sped up, the pods can also be cut open. Once they have been released, take the seeds out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
- Okra seeds can be harvested and then stored in an airtight jar in the refrigerator after being dried in the open air for a few days. They can remain viable for up to 1-3 years, though it is really best to use them as fresh as possible (in the next growing season). For best results and germination rates, before sowing seeds make sure to soak them in lukewarm water for at least 24 hours. Discard any seeds that float. There are also some sources that suggest nicking the seeds for best germination rates.
- Between 6 and 8 weeks before the last frost date in your area, water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination typically takes 6-18 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Alternatively, seeds can be directly sown into the garden. Space them in rows 2 inches apart, and thin them after seedlings have sprouted to a final spacing of between 12 and 18 inches. Ensure that the soil temperature has reached between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit before planting, or germination may not occur.
- Keep the seedling's planting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Once transplants have reached between 5 and 7 weeks old, they can be planted outdoors. The best time to transplant Okra seedlings is generally between June and July.
Propagating Abelmoschus by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost, and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in summertime. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
- Gather your materials. Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the roots or any other plant parts. Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
- Start to tease apart the roots with your gloved fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into two segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick root section.
- Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divisions and water thoroughly.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout.
Okra pods are harvested for their seeds when they have dried on the plant and turned brown. They are ready to be harvested when they rattle.
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There is an average of about 95 seeds per pod. 100 seeds should weigh about 0.2 ounces.
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Problems and Pests
Okra plants are typically pest and disease free, but can suffer from the following ailments if growing conditions are not ideal:
- Cucumber Beetle
- White Mold
- Southern Blight
- Vascular Wilt
- Bacterial Spot
- Powdery Mildew
- Root Knot Nematode
- Corn Earworm
- Aphids
- Mites
Gallery
It is clear when looking at the flowers on Okra plants that they are related to Hibiscus.
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Okra fruits can be prepared in a number of ways, including baked in the oven.
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Okra is typically harvested when fruits are immature, and around 2-3 inches long.
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Videos
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Tips for a great Okra harvest.
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Preparing and cooking Okra.
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Growing Okra in raised beds from seed.
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A great ATK recipe for Roasted Okra.
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Resources
California Master Gardener Handbook: Second Edition, Page 385 (Okra)
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