There are certain garden tasks that need to be done every year. Soil needs to be provided with nutrients, mulch needs replacing, irrigation needs checking, and as anyone with roses will tell you, those bushes need to be pruned. Roses are definitely high-maintenance superstars of the garden, with their lush foliage and striking flowers. Each year, they need to be pruned in order to increase in size, produce more blooms, be more full and balanced, and have better health overall. Most roses need to be pruned just once a year, thankfully, and the time to do it is just around the corner. In wintertime, between the months of December and February, roses are dormant, meaning that they are not putting on growth, they are not flowering or fruiting, and they typically do not need much ongoing care. This is the perfect time to prune.

You'll need gloves, preferably ones that go a bit up your forearm. Roses have prickles, which can tear through both clothing and skin, and it's best to protect yourself in advance. Depending on the size of your rosebush, you'll need either some regular pruning shears or long-handled lopping shears (or both!). A smaller-size saw may be handy as well, if a larger renovation is going to be completed on the shrub at this time. Make sure all tools are clean and sharpened before use. Using dull blades to cut through branches and stems can leave jagged, uneven cuts that catch moisture, and may lead to fungal problems later on. Clean tools are necessary to prevent the spread of pests and disease between plants.

Canes that are crossing (especially those that are touching) should be remedied by the removal of one. If there are any canes that are very thin (thinner than the girth of a pencil), they can be removed as well. Next, move towards the bottom of the plant and remove any debris covering the base. Search for any suckers, which are extra-vigorous shoots that arise from the rootstock of your rose variety. Make sure to cut these all the way back down to where they connect with the trunk.

Now is the time you get to start making some decisions about your rosebush. Choose between 3 and 6 strong, healthy canes towards the outside of the plant. Trim these back so that there are just 3-5 buds on each cane. These will be the canes that put on the most growth when spring rolls around, and they will form the general shape of the shrub going forward. Finally, remove all leaves from the bush. Diseases and insects tend to overwinter in the leaves, so this helps to prevent any issues in the coming season.

Rambler roses have pendulous canes and can also be great groundcover-type roses. They produce canes that can reach up to 10-15 feet long in just one season, and produce the best flowers and foliage on old wood. This coming year's greatest blooms will come from last year's growth. Prune these immediately after they are done flowering, removing some of the older large canes and giving it a general trim for shape and size.

And there you have it! Remember to clean your tools after you're done, and replace any mulch around the base of your roses that may have gotten shuffled around during the pruning process. If there is still some frosty weather to be had in your area before springtime rolls around, make sure to protect your newly-pruned roses and any new growth they may send out in response. 

There are many things that backyard gardeners can do over the winter months to prepare themselves for the growing season ahead, one of them being cleaning out seed storage areas. It's important to check for seed viability at this time of the year, because although we are not quite ready to plant our seeds yet, we do need to know if we can use the seeds we have or if we will need to order more. This is the time of year when seed catalogs come out; a good reminder to check our stock. In general, most vegetable and flower seeds will last around a year, though this shelf life can be extended to as much as 10 years if proper procedures are followed. The three most important factors in storing seeds are moisture, temperature, and light. Seeds like to hang out in a purgatory that is cool, dry, and dark. This cuts down the chances that seeds will mold, sprout, or otherwise go bad. Seeds also will fade in germination rates with time; if a packet of seeds was purchased a few years ago and went unused, it's possible that the seeds inside are now out of the window of viability.

This seed viability test takes between 7 and 10 days to complete, and begins with a moist paper towel, laid flat. Place a row of 10 seeds on the paper towel along one edge, and roll up loosely, making sure the seeds stay in place. Next, place the damp paper towel in a sealable plastic bag or other container (like a clear Tupperware) and put it in a spot that receives bright, indirect light and is warm. Many home gardeners choose the top of their refrigerator for this purpose, as it stays around 70 degrees. Over the next week or so, check the bag periodically for moisture. If the towel is beginning to dry out, add moisture by spraying with a spray bottle and resealing the bag. At the end of the 7-10 days, remove the paper towel from the bag and check to see how many seeds have sprouted. Some seeds may need longer to germinate, make sure to check your seed packets or online sources to confirm how many days your specific seeds will need for this process.

The general rule of thumb is if less than 7 out of the 10 seeds tested have sprouted, then you're going to want to order more seeds of that variety for planting this year. If between 70% and 90% of the seeds have sprouted, you should be good to get them in the ground once the weather warms up (or start them indoors). Many people will toss the germination test seeds, but they can also be planted in flats if they are carefully handled, and grown indoors until the last frost of the year has passed.

If you're like many home gardeners, you'll have a good amount of non-viable seeds. This happens, and doesn't necessarily mean that they were stored improperly or that any part of the process was done incorrectly. Sometimes seeds just don't make it if they're not in their natural habitat. The silver lining is that there are many seed companies online, or you can visit a local seed library.

For more information on seeds, take a look at the Seed module of our Home Gardening Course:

Happy testing, and feel free to comment below about the effectiveness of your seed storage techniques and results of your viability testing this year; We grow together!

In the 1990's, a mysterious illness was discovered both along the western coast of North America and in Europe. The sickness affected foliage, trunks, and overall health of many genera and species of woody plants, resulting in death or serious damage. Since its first official reporting in 1995, much research has been undertaken to identify its source, spread, and effective treatments, and there is now cause to believe there will be a sizeable resurgence in the disease due to the emergence of a more evolved strain.

This organism develops spores on leaves of primary host species, including the California Bay Laurel, which then are carried by rain and/or air currents to the leaves of the new host, where they continue to develop. Other host genera or species include Rhododendron, Madrone, Huckleberry, Buckeye, Bigleaf Maple, Toyon, Manzanita, Coast Redwood, Douglas Fir, Coffeeberry, and Honeysuckle. Once in contact with the host plant, the organism then infects the inner bark and sapwood of affected plants, resulting in bleeding cankers. Affected trees and shrubs typically die as a result, either from the disease itself or from other pests or diseases that attack the weakened plant. After infected plant matter dies and decomposes, the organism is transferred to the soil, where it germinates until another host species takes up spores. Phytophthora ramorum can overwinter in soil, and will also take advantage of already wounded trees and shrubs.

A phosphonate compound is the chosen preventative, life-extending treatment for high-value trees. Trees and shrubs that are not highly valued, however, are best left to their own devices. If kept otherwise healthy, they may survive for a while before succumbing to the pathogen. The best way to deal with this issue, as with most landscape diseases, is to prevent it from occurring in the first place. 

The best way to prevent Sudden Oak Death from killing landscape plants is to prevent it from entering the garden, because once it is there, it is not possible to eradicate it. The first step in preventing SOD is to inspect nursery plants before bringing them home. Many commonly grown ornamental plants available at nurseries can be carriers of the pathogen, and the state-established regulations we have do not always catch infections. Carefully inspect leaves of host plants for symptoms, which include browning and spotting of foliage. Do not purchase any plants with these symptoms. After bringing plants home, quarantine them away from the garden for eight weeks before installing. Some nurseries will use general fungicides on their plants to prevent spread of many diseases, and the symptoms of SOD can be masked. This quarantine time will increase the likelihood that an infection will be caught before the new plant is added to the landscape.

Trees affected by Phytophthora ramorum are prone to rapid decay and unpredictable failure. If an infected tree is growing close to homes or other structures, sometimes the best option is removal. Always consult local regulatory officials before deciding to remove trees, as sometimes permits are required. If there is an acute emergency, contact the city arborist or your local fire or police department.

Although there are many host plants for Sudden Oak Death, removal of these plants to prevent spread is not recommended at a residential level. If there is a healthy, susceptible-species Oak tree in the landscape, removal may be helpful to prevent spread, especially if there are few other host species planted nearby. Otherwise, leave host plants where they are.

Responsible disposal of infected plant debris and subsequent transportation of infected plant parts can be a cause of more areas in our state becoming affected by the pathogen. Even after being removed from the host plant, branches, leaves and twigs can still harbor Phytophthora ramorum. The best disposal method is to leave debris on-site, chipping small material for use as groundcover and using larger pieces for firewood. Removal of plant debris from the infection site is only recommended if it is the first infected tree in the area, or if the presence of debris on the property is a potential fire hazard. If infected tree parts are removed from the property, make sure whoever disposes of them does so inside the same quarantine area.

Finally, if infected trees or host plants are removed, they can be replaced with trees and shrubs that adapt well to the site. If another Oak tree is desired, make sure to choose a species that is not as affected by Phytophthora ramorum, such as those in the White Oak group (Valley Oak, Garry Oak, or Blue Oak).

A recent project undertaken by Dr. Matteo Garbellotto at the University of California Berkeley campus in conjunction with other contributors fueled SOD Blitzes, information from which was used to create a comprehensive Google Earth map overlay. The map overlay is available for download on the project's website. This 2024 survey found that infection levels are on the rise in the state of California, and have the potential to rise even more in early 2025 due to our wet winter weather. It also concluded that Sudden Oak Death is spreading quickly due to the emergence of a new strain of the pathogen.

The original pathogen, which was of the N1 lineage, has been surpassed in infectiousness and aggressiveness by the new N2 lineage. This new lineage has the ability to be more successful in warmer temperatures, which is a looming issue in California due to both climate change and the warmer weather of our Central Valley. Given these outlooks, it is of utmost importance that the public become aware of this disease and learn all they can about its spread, including how property owners can discourage it from entering their landscape.

To learn more about Sudden Oak Death, review the following questions:

What is the connection between Sudden Oak Death (SOD) and nursery plants?
As with many other pests and diseases that affect landscape plants, SOD is spread by human activity via the transport and sale of nursery specimens. All host plants for the disease are strictly regulated in California, and must be inspected and approved for transport and sale prior to shipment out of the regulated area they originate in. Purchasing of host plants at nurseries should be done carefully; all should be inspected before a sale is made. Inspect the leaves of host plants for symptoms, and refrain from planting host species near susceptible Oaks in the landscape. It is recommended that no host species be planted within 150-1,000 feet of susceptible Oak species. For an updated, comprehensive list of SOD host species, visit suddenoakdeath.org.

How do I determine if my tree has Sudden Oak Death?
It is a bit difficult to determine whether a tree is affected by SOD or another disease or pest. Homeowners are not equipped to diagnose trees on their own with absolute certainty. However, there are some steps that can be taken to determine whether it is a likely cause of tree decline:

• Find out what type of tree you have, and whether it is a susceptible species. Although the disease is called Sudden Oak Death, it does not affect all Oak tree species equally. In California, SOD mainly affects Tan Oak, Coast Live Oak, Shreve Oak, Canyon Live Oak, and California Black Oak.
• Determine if you are in an infested zone. There are many maps available to the public, including one on the Board of Forestry and Fire Protection website. Keep in mind that even if your property is not located within a designated infested zone, it is still possible, though a bit less likely, that your tree is infested with Phytophthora ramorum.
• Compare the symptoms of SOD with those exhibited by your tree. Make sure to check any host species nearby for symptoms, as well. If plants located close to your Oak are showing SOD symptomology, it is more likely that your tree could be suffering from it as well. Symptoms range from browning or dead foliage to spots or discoloration on leaves, cankers on trunks, and general dieback.

How do I pronounce Phytophthora ramorum?
The fungus-like organism that causes SOD, Phytophthora ramorum, is pronounced fye-TOFF-thor-rah  rah-MOR-um.

If my Oak has SOD, what are the chances that it will die?
There isn't a great way to determine whether a tree will die as a result of the disease, as each tree responds differently to infection. Even trees of the same species, planted in the same yard can exhibit different symptoms. For the most part, however, once infected, Tan Oaks have a relatively high probability of being killed. Coast Live Oaks have a somewhat lower probability of being killed. Most of the time, infections are a death sentence for susceptible species.

If I suspect that my tree has SOD, who should I hire to treat it?
The California Oak Mortality Task Force (COMTF) regularly carries out trainings for tree care professionals in the state. A list of training participants can be found on their website (suddenoakdeath.org). Hiring a professional who is familiar with the progression and treatment of SOD is key to ongoing health in affected plants. 

If I cut down my infected Oak tree, what should I do with the debris and wood?
The easiest way to deal with infested wood is to leave it on site. The wood can be chipped and used as mulch, and larger pieces can be used as firewood. Doing this will not significantly worsen the local disease conditions. Do not move any infected wood or plant parts out of the infected area; this will increase the spread of the disease to more locations in our state, and possibly lead to the destruction of large swaths of forest. As a general rule of thumb, it is not recommended to pile up wood next to established plants of any kind, as pests tend to 'jump' from wood piles to living trees and shrubs. Composting infected plant parts is not recommended, as most home-created compost piles do not reach high enough temperatures to kill the pathogen.

What plants can be installed to replace a tree killed by SOD?
If a new tree is desired to replace the lost one, choose a plat that suits your needs and that will adapt well to the planting site. If another Oak tree is the best choice, make sure to select a species that is not as affected by Phytophthora ramorum, such as those in the White Oak group (Valley Oak, Garry Oak, or Blue Oak). Also, take care when choosing new plantings for underneath Oak trees; many ornamental plants are carriers of the pathogen, and have the potential to affect nearby Oak trees. For a comprehensive list of host species, visit suddenoakdeath.org.

Ah, Euphorbia pulcherrima. The quintessential ornamental plant found in so many homes over the holiday season. These plants hail from Mexico and Central America, and are members of the Euphorbiaceae plant family, making them relatives of Croton, Castor Oil Plant, Cassava, and Rubber Tree. The plants were first discovered back in 1834, and derive their common name from the first United States minister to Mexico, Joel Roberts Poinsett. In fact, the day of his death (December 12) is now celebrated as National Poinsettia Day in the United States. Poinsettias have also been historically known under the names Mexican Flame Flower and Painted Leaf.

In 1919, an urban legend caught fire which told of the account of a two year old being poisoned to death after consuming a single Poinsettia leaf. Solely on this basis, the plant was included in H. R. Arnold's 1944 book Poisonous Plants of Hawaii. The author admitted that the inclusion was completely based on hearsay, but that did not stop the United States Food and Drug Administration (USFDA) from circulating a publication stating completely erroneously that "one Poinsettia leaf can kill a child". All attempts to prove this toxicity scientifically have failed, however, and it is widely considered to be a safe indoor plant to keep around children and pets.

These shrubs or small trees are semi-evergreen (they generally lose most of their leaves during the cooler months of the year), and produce very small yellow flowers that are grouped together at the center of colorful bracts. These bracts are most commonly seen in bright red, but can also be pink, creamy white, variegated with multiple colors, or orange. The bracts are often mistaken for flower petals, but are actually modified leaves, colored to attract pollinators to the inconspicuous flowers.

In order for bract color to emerge brightest, these plants require some special treatment. Bract color is created through photoperiodism, which essentially means that they need long periods of darkness over a few months' time to attain their color. It is recommended that plants are kept in complete darkness for fourteen hours each day over 6 to 8 weeks for best results. In most cases, this treatment is done by growers, but for those green thumbs who keep their Poinsettias alive throughout the year for display during the holidays, this is a task that will need to be completed at home.

Poinsettias are popular holiday decor in homes, churches, offices, and elsewhere across the United States, thanks to their ease of care, bright coloring, and a strategic marketing campaign by California grower Paul Ecke Sr. In 1923, he founded the Ecke Ranch, which today provides almost 80 percent of the plants bought and sold in the United States each winter. It may (or may not) be surprising to hear that Poinsettias are actually the most commonly purchased plant in the United States, with 35 million plants sold in the six week period leading up to Christmas. Having so many plants to choose from can be a bit confusing, however, so we've come up with some guidelines for purchasing these popular holiday ornamentals.

As with many plant purchases, investigating plants for health is an important step. The first indicator of a healthy Poinsettia is leaf health. Look for plants that have leaves which are a rich, dark green. Plants that have issues will exhibit leaves with burned edges, pale coloring, yellowing, curling, spots, or physical damage. These indicators can point to plant stress caused by cold temperatures, watering issues, or nutrient deficiencies. Bracts (the uppermost leaves that exhibit bright colors) should be unblemished and fully colored, without spots, curling, cracking, tearing, or dried sap.

Watering is a second major indicator of plant health. When a Poinsettia plant is picked up, it should be heavy, but not have water dripping from the bottom (unless it has just been watered). If pots are too light, make sure to check for signs of water stress (which typically exhibits itself in leaf issues, as discussed above). Heavy, overwatered pots can also cause plant stress; leaves can be wilted and yellowed due to overwatering. A plant with medium hydration is best.

Finally, choose a plant that is good lookin'! Poinsettias naturally have a handsome shape to them, and are bushy with a good amount of foliage. When looking for a perfect Poinsettia, think about the place you will be displaying them. Is it in a corner? On a narrow step? In the middle of a table? Depending on the display site, you may want to grab a plant that is a bit triangular, one-sided, or rounded.

Poinsettias are considered to be easy-care plants, and when brought home should be placed in a spot that receives full sun. They can take direct sun, especially indoors. Poinsettias should be put in a spot that is not drafty; they prefer temperatures stay between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep plants well-watered but take care to not overwater or have standing water around the roots. Many Poinsettias sold around the holidays have beautiful coverings around their containers for aesthetic purposes, but these coverings can cause issues when watering. They do not typically have drainage holes in them, so the water that drains out of the base of the container is captured and held, creating a situation where plants can easily drown. To water plants with coverings, make sure to remove the covering before watering, and allow excess water to drain off before replacing it.

Poinsettias in their first month outdoors should be placed in a shaded spot that is somewhat sheltered. As new growth continues to emerge, pinch it back to encourage a bushier plant to form. Over the next few months, care for the plant in its outdoor space, gradually introducing it to more and more light over time. Provide enough water to keep soil relatively moist, but not waterlogged. At around Labor Day, or as soon as nighttime temperatures begin to drop, bring the plant back indoors. Make sure to quarantine the plant away from other houseplants for a while after it is brought inside until it is clear that it has no pest or disease issues. To initiate blooms, Poinsettias will need to be exposed to at least 12 hours of darkness starting about six to eight weeks before the holiday season. To do this, place a box over the plant or place the plant in a dark closet. Return plants to a sunny location (one that receives between 6 and 8 hours of sunlight each day) inside a window during daytime hours.

Ensure that plants get potted up about once every two years or so, depending on how quickly the root ball is growing. As a rule of thumb, when roots start to poke out from the bottom of the pot, it is a good time to pot up. These plants will continue to grow larger and larger over the years, and will be at a great size within 5 years to be planted outdoors. Make sure to harden off plants by exposing them to increasing amounts of time outdoors over a few weeks before leaving them out in the garden permanently to avoid transplant shock. The final planting site should receive direct sunlight, have well-draining soil, and be somewhat sheltered from drying winds. Another option is to grow Poinsettias outdoors in containers, so that they can be brought indoors over the cooler months of the year.

Now that you know more than you've ever wanted to know about Poinsettia plants, you're ready to care for one of your own! 
​

Wintertime brings many changes to the garden, including cooler temperatures, more moisture, and beautiful, bare-branched silhouettes. As gardeners, our tasks become fewer and less frequent, and we're able to enjoy our outdoor spaces from the warmth of our homes. While we may miss our garden plants, we still have the opportunity to care for our green family members indoors. Houseplants are not immune to wintertime changes in heat and air moisture, even though they live in temperature-controlled spaces. These indoor plants, whether they are kept inside year-round or are just visiting over the cooler winter months, can be affected by several stressors. Evening chills, dry air, and shorter days are all factors that come into play for houseplants in the wintertime, and learning how to tweak care practices during this season can go a long way in ensuring indoor plants stay healthy until spring.

In wintertime, most indoor plants will require less water than they do at other times of the year. While it is true that the air tends to be more dry during this time, most plants are slowing down and experiencing some level of dormancy. Some indoor plants will go completely dormant, and not put on any growth at all over winter. Because of this, plants will require less water to keep hydrated. Applying the same amount of water at the same frequency as the rest of the year can result in overwatering and lead to root rot. Some drought-tolerant indoor plants, like cacti and succulents, may not need any water at all, while some tropicals may still require more regular irrigation. A good rule of thumb is to stick a finger down into the soil of your potted indoor plant to decide whether it needs water. If the soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, it is a good indicator that water can be applied. The water that is used to irrigate houseplants should be room-temperature; using water that is too cold can actually shock the roots of indoor plants.

One of the biggest changes in the winter for indoor plants is ambient humidity. Using the heater in climate-controlled spaces lowers humidity levels, which can drop by 10 to 20 percent. Most indoor plants that hail from more tropical regions require humidity to stay around 50 percent. Setting up a humidifier can help to increase air moisture, especially if it is situated close to where the indoor plants are kept. Grouping plants together during this time of the year can help, as well. They naturally release moisture through transpiration, and will provide more humidity for each other when grouped. Bathrooms and kitchens are great places to group plants, as they generally tend to be a bit more humid than other areas of the home.

Misting plants with a spray bottle by hand is only a temporary blast of moisture, and does not help to increase the humidity around plants. To be effective, a plant mister can be used multiple times per day to be effective. The main issue with these methods is that moisture evaporates quickly in indoor spaces in wintertime due to the use of climate-control mechanisms (like heaters). If you only have a couple of plants to care for, misting can be an option, but it needs to be done diligently, and a plant care surrogate will need to be hired for any time you spend away from the home. 

As stated above, most indoor plants tend to be from tropical rainforest areas of the globe, and prefer daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. To mimic these conditions for houseplants, keep them away from drafty areas (like doors and windows that are opened frequently), and heat sources (like space heaters, radiators, ovens, fireplaces, and electronic devices). Fluctuations in temperature should be avoided, and keeping plants in a non-drafty, climate-controlled space can go a long way in preventing damage to foliage and other plant parts.

In wintertime, there are fewer hours of sunlight, and rays are also less intense. Houseplants can be relocated during wintertime so that they are closer to light sources from outdoors, or sunlight can be supplemented using grow lights. Good spaces to choose for placing indoor plants are inside windows that face south or west, though these spots can also be a little drafty, so use your best judgement when moving them. Make sure to rotate pots about a quarter of a turn whenever they are watered. This will ensure that they do not develop bald spots and will produce foliage evenly. Otherwise, branches may begin to stretch and become a bit leggy trying to reach a more sufficient light source. It is also a great idea to wipe down leaves regularly (not just during the wintertime, but year-round) in order to maximize the photosynthetic potential of leaves. To do this, simply run a wet cloth across leaves.

Fertilizing houseplants is typically necessary, as they do not get the natural breakdown of forest floor material providing nutrients for growth. During the winter, however, fertilizing activities can be greatly lessened, or even discontinued. Feeding houseplants during winter will not allow them to enter any period of dormancy, which is typically a required yearly process for plant health. When springtime rolls around again, feedings can recommence. The exception to this rule is that some tropical plants, especially climbing or vining plants, will still require light feedings through the cooler months.

By keeping these points in mind, wintertime care for houseplants will be a breeze!

If you haven't heard already, it's World Vegetarian Day. This awareness day is dedicated to espousing the benefits of a vegetarian diet on the environment, personal health, local and national economics, and the lives of harvested animals across the country. There is much controversy over diets that exclude meat (and even those that discourage eating specific types of meat). On the surface, raging against some of the most peace-seeking people on the planet seems insane, but it's important to look deeper to get a full understanding of why some have such intense reactions to herbivorous humans.

It is thought that the basis of these trends in media and acceptance of vegetarian lifestyles is rooted in our culture of speciesism. Speciesism is the tendency of humans to view themselves as being a life form that is more deserving and important than all others on the globe. It is a very common prejudice to hold, and pointing it out in people who view themselves as just and responsible individuals can make for a very uncomfortable situation. Simply the knowledge of the existence of a vegetarian is enough to set most people off, both online and in person.

In our short stay on this planet, humanity has thus far destroyed a third of the forests, polluted 99% of habitats, and created a vast food system that benefits greatly from the mistreatment of all other life on earth. The goal of our food system has always been the same: to provide food for a large population. It seems a simple enough task, but as with every industry, after a while, cost-cutting, the desire of business owners to maximize profits, and the ignorance of a vast majority of the consumer population has led to a horrible situation for animals. If just the clearly erroneous idea of people eating their neighbor's dogs and cats is enough to cause bomb threats in Ohio, it seems strange that anybody would be unbothered by the way cows, pigs, chickens and other animals are treated in this country. As it is with many other injustices in the United States, it seems that either cognitive dissonance or just plain stubborn delusion is at work, perpetuating strong feelings in certain populations that keep these machines of torture running.

But I've digressed, because what World Vegetarian Day is really about is the sharing of positive changes and trends pertaining to a lifestyle that we should all be striving for, not for our own image but for the future of the planet (and by extension, those who come after us). Vegetarianism (and veganism) is the smarter, more peaceful and sustainable choice. Period. It is what all the cool kids are doing. It is a future-forward way of eating, and it is a simple step in the right direction for our entire species to lessen our ongoing damage to the world. So, in the spirit of the holiday, I'd like to share one of my favorite vegetarian dishes with you:

And there you have it: a delicious, existential guilt-free steak recipe to make for the holidays. By building yummy recipes like this one into our go-to cookbooks, we can start to take small steps to lessen our impact on the world and the suffering of animals. On average, a human eats about 700 animals in their lifetime. By lessening this number on an individual basis, we can lessen the overall demand for meat, and the more people that can be encouraged to do this, the more an impact we can make.

Gardens enter a time of vibrant transformation in autumn, when the landscape is draped in rich, warm hues. Leaves are beginning to shift color, and the air becomes crisp and cool. Gentle breezes float through the trees, removing the first leaves of the season from their attachments. ​It is a peaceful, reflective time when growth slows down and plants begin to prepare themselves for dormancy. The first day of the fall season, which is today, is a great time to start thinking about updating pots and annual beds. A great group of plants to pay attention to this year is ornamental greens. This group includes ornamental Kales and Cabbages, and has the potential to raise your displays to the next level. 

Many of us are used to seeing Brassicas in the veggie garden or on our salad plate, but it may surprise you to find out that they are also quite fantastic at adding interest to ornamental planters. Although they are commonly overlooked in favor of other flowering fall plants like Cyclamens or Mums, they have beautiful colors that are typically brought out even more with cool temperatures. Commonly called Flowering Cabbage or Flowering Kale, these plants are not edible; their leaves tend to be bitter and unpalatable. Leaves are typically deeply cut, frilly, or ruffled, and the only use they get in the kitchen is as garnish. 

Both types of ornamental greens form rosettes of leaves, though flowering kales tend to have serrated or fringed leaf margins and flowering cabbages form more of a head of foliage with smooth edges. Both are considered cool-season biennial plants which grow vegetative leaves in the first year, and send up flowers in the second. They are typically grown as annuals, removed from displays after their foliage begins to wilt with extended freezing temperatures in wintertime.

There are a few different varieties of these plants that are available through nurseries and other plant sellers. Although starting from seed is possible, it is not always recommended because many seed packets are not marked with the exact cultivars included. It is more common to purchase starts at a nursery or other plant seller when the plants are already producing colorful foliage. Popular varieties of ornamental kale include the 'Peacock' series and the 'Chidori' series. Ornamental cabbage varieties include 'Color Up', 'Osaka', and 'Pigeon'.

These foliage plants are relatively easy to care for, and don't have many pest or disease issues. Although they can be planted directly in the ground throughout the landscape, they make a bigger statement in containers or when planted en masse. They pair well with Chrysanthemum, ornamental grasses, Asters, Heuchera, and Pansies. If you're looking for a plant to brighten up your fall containers this year, look no further than these flowering relatives of some of our edible favorites.

Until next time!

A well-maintained garden not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of your home but also adds value to your property. However, achieving and maintaining such beauty requires consistent attention, care, and expertise. For many homeowners, the question arises: how often should you hire a gardener to keep your residential landscape in prime condition? The answer varies based on a number of factors, including the size of the property, the types of plants in the landscape, your local climate, and personal preferences. In this post, we’ll explore the various considerations that impact the frequency of hiring a gardener, along with the benefits of professional garden care.

Each garden is unique, and how often a maintenance crew should visit is largely dependent on the specific requirements of various elements of the garden. For instance, a simple lawn with a few flower beds will have different needs than one with a backyard orchard. Landscape elements include:

The unique climate of a landscape as well as seasonal changes in weather can affect how often garden maintenance is required. Different plants have varying growth cycles, and the care they require changes with the seasons.

In addition to having a maintenance crew visit the landscape, many home gardeners will complete some garden tasks on their own. This can save money in the long run, and can actually be a very enjoyable way to pass free time. How much time homeowners have to dedicate to garden care is an important consideration when deciding how often to hire a garden crew. If you are a busy professional or simply just do not have the time to care for your garden, hiring a gardener of a weekly or bi-weekly basis can ensure that your landscape remains in good condition throughout the year. If you enjoy gardening as a hobby and have a lot of free time, you may only need professional care four times a year.

Arguably the most important factor in how often a professional garden crew is hired for maintenance is budget. Professional gardening services can vary greatly in cost depending on the location, the size of a property, and the specific services required. Many gardening sercices offer package deals for regular maintenance, which can be more cost-effective than hiring a gardener on an as-needed basis. Newer garden maintenance companies have subscription plans with options to add services on an as-needed basis.

A day of garden maintenance is about 8 hours, and a half-day is considered 4. Basic gardeners in the Bay Area, California get paid an average of $25 an hour, which works out to $200 for a full day and $100 for a half day of maintenance. Labor price per hour varies depending on location, and the level of garden care provided. Materials like mulch, topsoil, compost, and plants are extra costs incurred by homeowners, as well, though some subscription gardening companies are changing this, building anticipated regular maintenance materials into their pricing structure.

Hiring a professional gardening service has many benefits beyond simply the convenience factor. Here are some of the key advantages:

as soon as it was brought home from the birthday party. An ideal planting site for these shrubs is in partial shade, though they can take full sun for most of the day as long as they get shade during the warmest hours (usually between 2 and 6 PM). Hydrangeas like slightly acidic soil with a pH of between 5.8 and 6.2 that is well-draining but kept moist. 

Pinky Winky Hydrangeas are also sold by some nurseries as small trees, which can reach about 8 feet tall with a 6 foot wide crown. For more information on more species and varieties of Hydrangea, as well as care information, click the link below to be taken to their plant page:

What's Going On?
It looks like this Hydrangea is in serious need of some water. With the somewhat cooler weather we've had in the past week here in the Bay Area, many gardeners took a short break from watering their plants so frequently (I know I did!). But it's important to remember that the plants we care for (especially those grown in pots) still do need to be at least checked for soil moisture daily; they have no way of sending their roots further down in search of water. Watering once a week is not sufficient for a Hydrangea plant in a nursery pot, a more ideal watering schedule would be at least 2-3 times per week.

Also, by this point the soil in the pot is most likely hydrophobic, meaning that it will not do a great job absorbing water for roots to use. Most of the water will run off the top of the soil, down the sides of the root ball inside the container, and right out the holes in the bottom without so much as touching a root. Further concerning the root system of the plant, it is possible that because the pot size is so small, the plant is root-bound. Luckily, all of these issues are fixable.

To try to save this plant, we'll do some initial pruning and soil rehydration followed with a repotting and top dressing. 

A Little Haircut
Cut off the flowers on this Hydrangea plant. Flowers take a lot of water to form and bloom, and cutting them off will allow the plant to send more of its energy and resources to repairing itself and forming a strong root system. If there are any smaller flower buds on the plant, cut them off as well.

Rehydrate the Soil
Fill a 5-gallon bucket or similar container with water and lower the Hydrangea in its container into the water. It will try to stay afloat at first, but the longer it is held under, the more it will take on water and become less buoyant. Once the pot is staying under the water on its own, it can be pulled out and set aside to drain. Repeat this process every 2-3 days until water poured at the base of the main stem is readily absorbed by the soil.

Find a pot with nice drainage holes that is 4-5 inches wider in diameter than the nursery pot and fill the bottom of the pot with well-draining potting soil. A good mix for container-grown Hydrangeas is a standard potting mix with a scoop of perlite and a generous amount of compost thrown in. Don't worry about fertilizing at this point; it's possible that it will overwhelm the plant's recovering root system to have to deal with so many changes at once. Add enough soil to the bottom of the pot so that when the nursery pot is set inside, it sits about 2 inches below the container rim. Then, remove the Hydrangea from its nursery pot and check out the root system.

Make sure that the Hydrangea is surrounded with enough soil to keep it in place, but don't pack it down too much. The soil should have enough pore space to allow for healthy root growth. Give the new pot a soaking and ensure that good drainage is happening. 

Topdress the Pot
​The final step to bringing the Hydrangea back to full health is to add a 2 inch layer of organic mulch to the soil surface. Ensure that the mulch doesn't go right up to the main stem of the plant, keep it about 2-3 inches away. Adding mulch to your container will help to keep moisture in the soil, suppress weed growth, and maintain soil temperature.

After taking these steps, it's time to sit back and watch your Hydrangea recover. The container should be placed in an area that is somewhat sheltered for a while, to avoid any other issues from taking hold while the plant is vulnerable. Make sure it is protected from direct afternoon sun, and water every 2-3 days after checking for soil moisture. If an eventual goal is to put the plant in the ground, wait until next springtime to give it time to recover and get used to the climate in your garden. With some luck, this plant will be saved!

When evaluating droopy plants, it is critical to determine the wetness of soil at the root ball level. Begin by removing the mulch from underneath your plant, and find a place where you can stick your finger into the soil close to the root ball. If it is wet an inch or two down, the plant has enough water and is probably drooping due to the heat from the sun. In this situation, see if you can give plants some much-needed shade during the warmest parts of the day (which is usually between 2:00 and 3:00 PM). If plants are in containers, you can physically move them underneath overhangs or to shaded sides of your home. If they are in the ground, shade can be provided with a strategically-placed umbrella or shade screen.

If your soil feels dry under your drooping plant, it is a clear sign that it needs more water. Evaluate how you are watering your plant, how the soil is absorbing that water, and whether your plant can even be saved. Drip systems are considered the best for watering most landscape plants because they provide water slowly enough for the soil to have time to absorb moisture. If water is applied at to fast of a rate (via a hose or sprinkler system), water will simply run off the soil surface to lower areas of the landscape, and not be absorbed by the soil that your plant is pulling its water from. In some situations, water corrections may be made too late to save the plant and it will need to be removed and replaced with something a little more tolerant of heat and drought. Thankfully, you can find a replacement plant in the list below.

The following plants were chosen for their resistances to drought and heat stress. These plants are beautiful, hardy, easy to care for, and are great choices for western landscapes.

Even though gardening in the summer months can be a bit frustrating, using the plants above can go a long way in creating a landscape that is both beautiful and low-maintenance over the warmer months of the year. Monitoring your garden for signs of water stress is critical to keeping plants healthy and happy, and thankfully cooler temperatures will come around again in just a few months' time.

Happy gardening!

According to the National Garden Bureau, Cucumber (Cucumis sativa) plants are grown in at least half of home gardens in the United States. There are many different varieties to choose from, including slicing, pickling, and burpless. Cucumbers are great plants for the backyard edible garden - they require full sun, and do fantastic against fences or trellises, where their tendrils will have fun climbing up a vertical surface. They are actually great for covering areas of fence, reaching between 2 and 8 feet tall during the growing season. If you are growing your cucumbers to be eaten fresh, 2-3 plants per person in the household should be sufficient, and if you are growing your cucumbers with the intention of pickling, about 3-4 plants will create a quart of pickles.

To maximize harvest even more, companion plants can be installed near Cucumbers. Growing these plants alongside one another is incredibly beneficial to the overall health of the garden, increasing yields and repelling pests, as well as enticing beneficial pollinators to enter the space. 

In addition to there being great companion plantings for Cucumbers, there are also some plants that should be avoided:

Now that you've got a better idea of how to build a synergistic garden space for Cucumber plants, it's time to plant! The best time to plant seedling Cucumbers is right now (the best time to sow Cucumber seeds for planting was back in mid to late spring, though they can still go in the ground now). For more information on Cucumbers, including their relatives and varieties, visit the Cucumber page.

When it comes to backyard horticulture, tomatoes are a classic favorite, with their ease of cultivation, high productive capacity, and delicious flavors. Tomatoes can be grown in almost any situation, as long as they are provided with enough sunlight and water. Although many small-space gardeners may believe that they simply don't have the room for these edible superstars, there are many ways tomatoes can be incorporated into small gardens and even apartment container gardens with ease. If you're a green thumb who is a bit short on space, here's what you need to know about growing tomatoes in pots:

Now that you've got an idea of what tomato varieties to choose and how to plant them, here's what you should know about caring for your plants in this situation:

Fertilizing
Tomatoes grown in the ground do not always need fertilizing, but those grown in containers do greatly benefit from regular feedings through the growing season. Apply a balanced, water-soluble feeding at half strength once every two weeks or so. Tomato plants prefer small, frequent fertilizations over infrequent, heavy feedings.

Pest and Disease Management in Tomato Plants
Whether grown in pots or in the ground, tomato plants do have their fair share of pests and diseases. Some of the more common culprits include Aphids, Hornworms, Whiteflies, Wireworms, Verticillium Wilt, Tobacco Mosaic Virus, Damping Off, and Powdery Mildew. For more information about common Tomato pests and diseases, including how to eradicate them, consult the Tomato page.

Tomatoes are fantastic edible additions to any garden, producing nutritious fruits and providing beauty and interest to both indoor and outdoor spaces. Whether you have a large backyard space or a tiny patio with just one pot, you too can grow your own.

Until Next Time, 
- Kristi

This past weekend, I headed out to Lake Amador in Ione, California. My husband is a big fisherman, and he went up to participate in their annual Trout Derby. I joined him after a few days, after I got off work on Saturday night. When I got to the lake, it was cold, dark, wet, and windy. The rain had turned our campsite into a slushy, muddy mess. So I made quick work of  setting up the canopy and getting our sleeping situation figured out, and we went to bed, crossing our fingers on both hands for a clear morning.

The next day, I woke up to a beautiful surprise. Fields of orange wildflowers surrounded our campsite, dotting the grassy hills with color. The flowers stood on tall, slender green stems, and the inflorescences reminded me of young, curled fiddlehead fern fronds. I went to work identifying these blooms the lazy way (aka Google Image Search). The results I received pointed me to the genus Amsinckia.

This genus is native to western North America and south-western South America, and are commonly called Fiddlenecks, due to the curled shape of their new flower infloresences. ​They are in the Boraginaceae family, making them relatives of Forget-Me-Nots and Borage. They, like Borage, are somewhat edible; Native Americans ate the leaves, shoots, and seeds. Before you go eating them, however, do keep in mind that they are bristly, and that their sharp hairs can be irritating to skin. I also have come across some information about seed and other toxicities in some species, as well, so make sure you do a boatload of research before stickin' anything in your mouth. The flowers of most species are yellow-orange, and the stems grow to reach between 8 and 50 inches tall. All species are annual, and there are twelve of them.

Flowers on the plants I found had five petals, were definitely more orange than yellow, and had darker orange marks toward the center of the bloom. Stems and flower buds were bristly but not overly so, and leaves had smooth margins and were slightly fuzzy. Each plant had a terminal inflorescence, with another close to the top, as in the photo above. Taller plants had other infloresences appearing at intervals going down the main stem. Leaves were lanceolate. I tried to use these clues to compare them to the remaining four species on the list:

I think it's safe to rule out Amsinckia vernicosa; the stems on the plants I found are clearly not pink or as thick as those in that species. Just on looks alone, it is most similar to Amsinckia menziesii, and since that species is the only one whose range map includes Amador County (the others only come close), that's another mark towards its positive identification. It may be a hybrid between A. menziesii and one of the two remaining species, as well. Not having an identification guide, I think it's as close as I'm going to get.

I'm so happy to have discovered a new species for my books, and have learned a lot about these plants along the way. Hopefully I'll be able to go back over to Amador soon, so I can take more pictures and do a little more investigating.

Until next time, 

Kristi

Mulch: the protective blanket of organic material that keeps soil moist, suppresses weed growth, and maintains healthy soil temperatures. Mulches come in a variety of materials and colors, and are available for purchase at garden centers and businesses that sell landscape materials in bulk. Because mulch is so important to soil (and therefore plant) health, it is critical to maintain a thick layer in planting beds throughout the garden in each season. Typically, mulch needs to be replaced once every one to two years, depending on factors like the level of traffic in mulched areas, water runoff, and climate (including wind). The best time to replace mulch is during your yearly application of compost to the soil, which should take place in February before new spring growth emerges for the season. To replace and refresh mulch, follow these general steps:

Walk around your garden, taking a good look at the mulch coverage in your planting beds. If you notice any bare spots, take note of about how large the bald spot is. At the end of your stroll, you should have a good idea of the square footage you'll need to re-cover with a fresh layer. If you don't already know the total square footage covered by mulch in your garden, this is a good time to calculate it. Start by taking approximate measurements of your beds' widths, lengths, and diameters. Check out the measurements below for an example.

Now that you've assessed the situation and taken some necessary measurements, it's time to calculate how much mulch you'll need. Begin by adding up the total square footage of your beds by multiplying their widths by their lengths. You'll need to convert inches to decimals (for example 4 feet 6 inches = 4.5 feet). Then, once you have your total square footage, multiply that integer by the desired depth of mulch in feet. For 1 inch, use the multiplier 0.083. For 2 inches, use the multiplier 0.167. For 3 inches, use the multiplier 0.25. Using the example garden above, this is what this process looks like:

The depth multiplier you'll use depends on how much your mulch has degraded. If you are mulching for the first time, a two or three inch layer of mulch is suggested. For yearly upkeep, one or two inches should suffice.

Now that you've figured out how many cubic feet of mulch you'll need, it's time to find a place to purchase your material. Most garden centers and even some big box stores like Target, Walmart and Costco will sell pre-bagged mulches. Bags are typically either sized in 2 or 3 cubic foot quantities. Regardless of the bag size, you'll need to calculate how many bags you'll need for your space to determine the price you'll pay for material. To do this, divide your calculated cubic footage by the volume of each bag. For example, if the store you visit has mulch in three square foot bags and you've decided to add 2 inches of mulch across the landscape, your equation will look like this:

If a large area of the garden needs to be covered, if you are applying mulch for the first time, or simply if the price is better for the amount of mulch you need, it may be more realistic to purchase your mulch from a bulk supplier. On average, these landscape material suppliers will charge between $25 and $80 per cubic yard of mulch. Most of these places charge by the cubic yard, so your cubic footage will need to be calculated before shopping. There are 27 cubic feet in 1 cubic yard , so the number of cubic feet can either be divided by 27 or multiplied by 0.037037. Using the above example again:

Depending on which type of mulch is purchased, getting this much mulch from a bulk landscape material supplier can run between $50 and $160. Purchasing mulch by the bag from a garden center or other retailer may run between $95 and $150. Although the prices at the bulk seller may be a bit better, the mulch will not be bagged, and therefore will not be as easy to distribute around the yard, and will require a trailer or truck bed to transport. An upside, however is that these places also commonly sell compost, which can be purchased at the same time as mulch to cut down on trips back and forth to the store. A last point about using bulk sellers is that sometimes they will have a minimum purchase amount; to check, simply call ahead. 

If you are applying compost at the same time you are mulching, which is recommended, you'll pull your mulch layer back so that the soil surface is exposed. The compost will then be applied and distributed, and then mulch can be put back on. The old mulch should be mixed with the new before it is added back to the surface. Not all old mulch should be re-used, however. If mulch is diseased or overly moldy, it should be thrown away. Rake mulch to level., and then water it (and the compost) in. And there you have it: a simple way to refresh the health and aesthetic appeal of your garden in a days' work.

Happy Gardening!

Starting From Seed
A great option for working around the cooler temperatures of this time is to begin your vegetable gardening indoors by sowing seeds. There are many advantages to this technique, including:

• Cost savings. Seeds are much more inexpensive than nursery-started vegetable plants.
• Choice from a greater variety of vegetables. Many nurseries only carry certain types of vegetables for transplants, and many of the great heirloom varieties are not sold as plants, only as seeds.
• Flexibility of timing. Growing your own seedlings will allow you to perfectly plan out when your veggie garden can be planted out.
• Pest exclusion. Growing your seedlings indoors will ensure that they are not grazed by local wildlife or develop pest problems early on.

With all of these benefits, starting a vegetable garden from seed can seem like a wonderful idea. However, it is important to also consider cost and have a timeline hammered out before starting. The following pointers should help you to bring your plan together:

This type of soil mix will be great for starting seeds of plants like peppers and tomatoes. For other plants, like squashes and cucumbers, a standard potting soil can be used. Starting with a good soil for your seeds is essential. When seedlings are developing, they use massive amounts of energy, and therefore need great growing conditions to avoid developing growth issues or health problems. 

Container Choices
Seeds can be started in many types of settings, including in plastic or peat containers, in the ground, or in containers with other mature plants. The best growing situation for seedlings, however, is a sterile, controlled environment. Indoors, seeds are best started in seed flats, old food containers (with added drainage holes), or small nursery pots. Whatever container is chosen for starting seeds, it is important to ensure sterility and drainage. Sterilize old, re-used containers with a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water, and ensure that all containers have adequate drainage holes. To test drainage before planting seeds, fill the container with soil and then water it. Monitor how long it takes most of the water to drain out. If it is more than 10 minutes, more drainage holes should be added.

Seed Germination Heat Mat
This tool is not a necessary one, but will assist your seeds in getting a great head-start. Different species of seeds will have different germination temperature requirements. Some prefer cooler temperatures, others need sustained warmer temperatures (around 95 degrees Fahrenheit at the high end). Using a heat mat can ensure that the ideal temperature range is sustained throughout the seedlings' growth, and take a lot of the guesswork out of navigating seed-sowing.

When to Plant
Figuring out your sowing date (the day you'll plant your seeds for germination) involves counting back from when they'll be put out into the garden soil. In general, vegetables and herbs like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and basil can be started about 4-8 weeks prior and cucumber and squash can be started less than four weeks prior to installing them outside. If temperatures are a bit cooler (or you don't have the assistance of a heat mat), seedlings will take longer to sprout.

Care and Feeding
Once seeds are in their soil beds, keep the soil mixture moist but not wet. A complete liquid fertilizer can be applied to the soil if it is not already nutrient-rich. Mix it at half-strength as soon as the second set of true leaves appear on the seedlings. You'll want to continue to care for your seedlings indoors until they have grown their third or fourth set of true leaves. After these have sprouted, you can transfer your seedling outside (if the last frost of the year has passed). When the time comes, introduce your seedlings to the outdoor environment using a process called 'hardening off', or simply 'hardening'. This involves placing your seedlings in a shaded, outdoor environment for a few hours at a time each day, increasing their outdoor time over a few weeks by an hour every day or every few days. This will ensure that your plants don't get shocked when they are planted outdoors. The transition can be difficult, and many seedlings are lost because they just can't adapt quickly enough. 

​Although it gives plants a great head start to sow them indoors, there are some veggies that will perform well in the chill of February outside. As long as soil is not too cold or too wet (you'll want to choose the driest, sunniest part of your garden for this task), it can be used for planting. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the soil temperature has risen above 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds will sprout well under these conditions, and not become waterlogged or mold over. Good choices for crops to start in February out in the garden are:

Before planting, ensure that your soil has been adequately amended with compost or other organic material. It is also a good idea at this time to add some fertilizer to the soil that is rich in nitrogen, just to get things moving along. Plant your seeds at the depth and spacing specified on the seed packet. Then, your job will be to monitor and protect your seeds and seedlings. An outdoor environment is much more harsh than an indoor one, and plants have a harder time reaching maturity. Once seedlings emerge from the soil surface, protect them by covering them with a plastic gallon milk container or similar container with the bottom cut off. This will protect them from pests and other outdoor dangers while they mature. It is also a great idea to mulch the area around the seedlings to protect roots from extreme temperatures, increase soil moisture retention and manage weed growth.

Indoors or outdoors, February is a great month to kick off your vegetable garden to ensure a hefty harvest for the year.

Until next time, 
Kristi.

As the backbone of your garden, trees play an important role in the look, functioning, and biodiversity of the landscape. Adding trees to an outdoor space can improve soil health, help to prevent erosion, increase privacy, and add color and interest. Between the months of December and March is a great time to plant trees in the Bay Area, especially fruit trees. I've gotten many questions in the past from customers, clients, and friends and family concerning the specifics of selecting a nursery tree out of the many rows of specimens that seem to all look the same. In response, I've put together a short go-to guide for all of you that will fill you in on what you need to know. 

In choosing a specific tree for your landscape, there are a few important things to consider. The first is shopping at a nursery or other plant source that is compliant with federal and state laws and regulations. Our state, to protect both our economy and natural biodiversity, has enacted laws that affect the transport and sale of plants. To ensure that you are purchasing a tree that will be safe to plant in your garden, make sure you are purchasing from a reputable seller.
​

A second factor to consider when purchasing a nursery tree is going native. Native trees are those that are endemic to the Bay Area, and therefore have evolved to survive in our unique climate. These trees also tend to be more drought-tolerant, and will generally perform better and be more resilient than imported species. To do a search of native trees that will do well in your area, head over to the California Native Plant Society's Calscape website:

Once you've selected your nursery and species of tree, you can head down to your chosen seller and check out their inventory of trees for sale. As you settle on which specific tree or trees you'll bring home, pay close attention to the following:

Proper Identification
Ensure that the tree you are considering is labeled properly. Most nurseries have wonderful labeling systems and will put stickers on individual plants, others are not so thorough and some work may need to be done to locate a tree that is properly labeled. Be sure that you are buying the tree that you came to purchase. Also, when looking at the label, ensure that the size of the pot is listed, and that it is correct. There's no reason to pay the price for a 20-gallon tree when you're only getting a 5-gallon, just because of an incorrect label.

General Tree Health Markers
There are many markers to look for in a nursery tree that will increase the chances it will adapt well to your garden and live out a long, healthy life. Inspect nursery candidates for the following:

Crown Characteristics
​The crown of the tree should have a central leader, either the original one or a replacement that has established after a heading cut has been made. If the original leader has been headed, a new leader at least 1/2 the diameter of the original leader needs to be present. Check out the three photographs below for a visual representation of what you should be looking for.

Main Branch Characteristics
Main branches, also called scaffolds, should be distributed radially around the main trunk and vertically along the trunk, forming a somewhat symmetrical shape that is typical for the species. The following aspects of the main branching qualities of nursery trees should be examined:

Temporary branches should be present along the lower trunk (especially for younger trees less than 1.5 inches in trunk diameter). No temporary branches should exceed 3/8 inch in diameter. At this diameter, they should be pruned off.

The trunk diameter (measured about six inches above the soil surface) should be within the diameter range shown for each container size:

Root Characteristics
Main root system shall be free of circling or kinked roots. It may be necessary to carefully dig into the soil a bit to inspect the root system.​​ Check out the photographs below to see a reference for preferable and unacceptable root composition. The tree should also be rooted well into the potting medium it is in, and should not be pulled out of the soil mix easily.

The last thing to check on your chosen tree is the current moisture status of the soil. Nursery trees should be receiving water on a regular basis; their roots cannot move past the confines of their pot to find water, and if they are water-stressed, they could undergo a more dramatic shock period after they are installed in your garden, and may not make it. After you've completed this last check of your tree, you're ready to check out. Keep in mind that many nurseries will offer delivery services (either for free or for a charge) for larger trees or orders with a large number of plants. Make sure to get all of your delivery information squared away before leaving the nursery if you choose to go this route. 

Choosing a nursery tree is neither a quick nor an easy process, but being picky about your selection will ensure the health of your purchased tree and increase the chances that it will survive in its new home. For more information on planting your new tree, visit the Year in the Garden module of Kristi's Garden Club. 

Until next time, 
Kristi.
​

I'm glad I have your attention, because I'd like to tell you about something very cool that just happened at the University of Wisconsin at Madison. A team led by scientists at the university has officially produced a cutting-edge way to extract certain nutrients (most importantly, ammonium and potassium) from livestock manure to be used in applications like fertilizer and other chemical products.

Manure itself can be used as-is to fertilize the garden, but it has some drawbacks. First, it is expensive when compared with other commonly used fertilizing products. Adding to the gap in cost is the fact that manure also contains fewer nutrients than synthetic fertilizers, so it must be applied in larger quantities to support plant growth. Second, manure doesn't smell great to begin with and as it decomposes the odor somehow gets even worse. The strong smell can also attract flies and hungry rodents, which are unwelcome visitors in most gardens. Third and finally, although manure is an organic fertilizer, it can be damaging to the environment, releasing ammonia, phosphorus, and potassium into groundwater and ammonia into the air. Airborne ammonia is smelly, and can cause breathing issues in sensitive people. In the ground, nutrient excesses can contaminate local water sources and if they flow into the ocean, can kill fish and cause damaging algae blooms.

The goal for this team was to find a way to extract the useful nutrients from manure that make it such a valuable fertilizer. The new technique was revealed to the scientific world less than a week ago in the journal Nature Sustainability, and already has caught the attention of many gardeners. The procedure described in the study involves directly placing a nickel-based electrode into manure wastewater, which then collects ammonium and potassium from the oxidized organic matter. The electrode is then placed in a device that uses electricity to release the ammonium and potassium from the electrode. The extracted nutrients can be used to create nitrogen or potassium-based fertilizers that are greener and more affordable to transport than manure.

A very cool discovery in and of itself, this breakthrough also has the potential to lower ammonia emissions by 50% and lessen nitrate leaching considerably from livestock farms. And in the long-run, maybe we'll have cheaper, more effective and greener ways to use manure as a fertilizing agent. It just goes to show, the trick to tackling climate change is to electrify everything. Even poop.

​Until next time!

References:
Zapping Manure with Special Electrode Promises an Efficient Method to Produce Fertilizers, Other Chemicals

Earthworms: the hidden workhorses behind fertile soil and beautiful plants. While cruising the interwebs recently, I came across an article about some worms that I'd never heard of before: Japanese Jumping Worms. There are three species currently recognized that share this common name: Amynthas agrestis, Amynthas tokioensis, and Metophire hilgendorfi.  They are also called Crazy Snake Worms, Wood Eels, Alabama Jumpers, and Jersey Wrigglers. These worms are considered to be highly invasive; they can reproduce without mating, and their eggs are very difficult to see in soil. Their presence is not to be taken lightly, however. They are more voracious eaters than their European counterparts, decimating the layer of decomposing material that is necessary to support plant and animal life. They also feed on plant roots, which can kill garden and nursery plants.

Although these worms are relatively new to California, they have been found in pots and in the ground in the northern regions of the state, and will most likely find their way down to the Bay Area given some time. These invasive worms are worrying environmental scientists, because they pose a threat to forests and can harm biodiversity in gardens, nurseries, and parks. Below are some common questions about these wiggly pests:

How do I tell the difference between Japanese Jumping Worms and Nightcrawlers?
This is a great question, as these two worms look pretty similar. Nightcrawlers are lighter in color, and have a reddish-pink band (called a clitellum) that sits like a raised saddle on their bodies. The clitellum on jumping worms is lighter in color (whitish), surrounds their bodies completely, is flush with the rest of the body, and their bodies are darker in color. Reference the photos below for a visual comparison of these two worms:

These worms also differ in their habits. When picked up, earthworms will attempt to get back to the ground, but are slow-moving. Japanese Jumping Worms, on the other hand, act almost like snakes do, writhing quickly and making 'jumping' movements.

Will I be able to tell if there are Jumping Worms in my garden?
Jumping Worms can be found in the surface soil or just below - higher in the soil profile than Nightcrawlers. They mass together, and because they reproduce so quickly and in such great numbers, you'll be able to identify them visually if you come across a colony. A neat trick to perform is to pour mustard water (mix a gallon of water with 1/3 cup of ground yellow mustard and shake) over your garden soil in a few areas. The worms will come to the surface, and you can collect them and see if they are indeed Jumping Worms. You'll also be able to witness their behavior and differentiate it from that of regular earthworms. These worms are most active during the summertime, in mid-June these worms will be entering their first season of maturity. This is when you'll be most likely to notice their presence. Another sign that these pests may have invaded your space is that the soil texture will be similar to coffee grounds.

​How do I get rid of these pests?
​If you find Jumping Worms in your soil, don't panic. Your first step is going to be to educate yourself about these critters, and let others around you know that you've located some in your garden. Next, you may want to dig up the colony of worms and the surrounding soil to remove both the worms themselves and their eggs. Place the removed worms and soil in a black plastic bag and leave it out in the sun. This will kill both adult and cocooned worms. You can toss the bag in the trash afterwards. Make sure to clean off any tools and gear you use when working in your garden frequently and thoroughly, as the tiny eggs can be spread on trowels, shovels, shears, and even gardening shoes and clothing. A final step in ridding your space of Jumping Worms is to heat moistened soil to a temperature of 104 degrees Fahrenheit. This will kill any cocoons in the soil, wiping out the next generation of worms. This task can be accomplished by spreading clear polyethylene over the area and allowing the sun to act as a heat source. Leave the plastic out for 2-3 weeks; in this time the soil should reach the target temperature.

What are some best practices to ensure that I don't inadvertently bring these worms into my garden?

1. When purchasing dirt or compost, ensure that it has been heated to a temperature of at least 130 degrees Fahrenheit for at least three days. This is a preventative measure to stop the spread of many garden pests that many reputable producers will perform. 
2. Clean your garden tools and gear regularly to stop the spread of these worms in your own garden.
3. Only bring potted plants in to your garden that have come from reputable nurseries. Sharing plants with other home gardeners can be risky, as most home gardeners do not go to the same lengths to ensure their product is pest-free.
4. If you have a gardening service taking care of your property, talk to them to see what their practices are for cleaning their equipment and gear. If you are not satisfied, have a collection of tools and other gear available for them to use on your property that you are responsible for cleaning and maintaining.
5. Contact the California Department of Fish and Wildlife to report your sighting. The required documentation and further instructions can be found on this webpage:

The invasive Jumping Worms are in California now, and are working their way down the state. Keep an eye out for these destructive garden critters, remove them from your soil and destroy them, and report your sighting(s). If we garden responsibly, we may just be able to slow the spread of these pests (and others) in our state. As always, thanks for reading! See the references section below for more information on these worms.

Until next time!

​Kristi.

Also called Floriography, the language of flowers is, simply put, communication through the use of flowers or arrangements of flowers. Floriography has a long history, with roots found in many cultures around the world. This communication technique gained popularity in the Victorian Era, when certain romantic gestures couldn't be said aloud. Bouquets of flowers were used instead to send these messages of interest. These flowers were also used as fashion accessories; nosegays (also called tussie-mussies, talking bouquets and posys) were carried around by both men and women, a sign that they were giving or had received a romantic message. There were subtleties in the language, including which flowers were used, how many there were, how they were bound, and even whether they were given or received with the right or left hand.

The full list is included in the publication linked below, available through the Biodiversity Heritage Library. Much of the book is comprised of writings about flowers; the flowers and their corresponding sentiments are listed starting on page 265 (or page 245, if you're going by the book's page numbers) Have fun reading poetry and perusing; I know I did!
​

Until next time!

​- Kristi

The first day of spring was last Monday (March 20th, just in case anybody missed it like I did), and flowers of all kinds are beginning to blossom. My mom's garden is filled with her new buds and flowers, most notably on her Crabapple trees! These are exciting times, really. This is also the time of year when wildflowers are going to start popping up everywhere. I've been noticing poppies along 680 on my drives to the lake, and it's gotten me pretty excited for the months to come.

​It's a great time of the year to start getting outside again, and to kick it off, organizations like the Peninsula Open Space Trust are suggesting hikes and nature walks in the area. I was excited to see their advertisement this morning for their multitude of hiking trails in the Peninsula and South Bay, on which you can view the show of wildflowers that is about to come. I'm planning on trying to hit all of the trails in the next month or so, and I hope many of you do the same! To access their list of trails, including which wildflowers are found along which trails, follow the link below! 

​Until next time, 

​- Kristi

Many people will tell you that if you  need a fast-growing, lush-foliaged privacy shrub with beautiful blooms, you should look no further than Oleander. These plants, commonly called 'deadly beauties', are popular landscaping plants native to Europe and Asia. They can form rounded shrubs or small trees if pruned correctly, and are members of the Dogbane (Apocynaceae) family, making them relatives of Milkweed, Amsonia, Hoya, Mandevilla, Plumeria, and Vinca (Periwinkle). They grow to be quite large, up to 20 feet tall and 6-10 feet wide, and are adaptable to many different soil and climate conditions. Oleander shrubs can handle browsing from deer, costal salt spray and salty irrigation water, heat, drought, high winds, air pollution, and poor soil. They are urban landscape superstars in this way.

Oleander plants, though not native to North America, have a long history here. The first Oleanders to be put in the ground were planted in 1841 in Galveston, Texas. They flourished even in the area's humidity, salty air, and alkaline soils. In the years that followed, so many plants were installed in the area that Galveston was known worldwide as 'The Oleander City'. The use of Oleanders to fill spaces typically devoid of all plant life caught on, and they quickly spread across the United States, used in home gardens as well as public spaces. In California alone, there are estimated to be around 25 million Oleander plants along highways and roadsides.

Although these landscape icons seem to be the ideal plants for almost any situation, there are a few factors to consider, including their toxicity. Oleander plants contain the toxins Oleandrin and Oleandrigenin, which are cardiac glycosides. If humans or animals ingest any part of the plant, they are met with a slew of side effects, such as weakness, diarrhea, nausea, vomiting, headache, stomach pain, and eventually death. These side effects are well-known in horticultural circles today, informed by historical accounts of their use in traditional medicine and tragedies that have occurred from uninformed use of plant parts in cooking. In Ancient Babylon, physicians used a combination of licorice and oleander to cure hangovers, and in the Middle East, the plants were used as a cancer treatment. Over the years, these plants have been cultivated for their use in relieving symptoms of ringworm, malaria, leprosy, indigestion, alcoholism, heart failure, venereal disease, and fever. It has also been used to trigger miscarriage. Sadly, it is a common drug used for suicide, mainly in the Middle East, by young children forced into marriages to much older men.

Despite the toxic drawbacks of these plants, they are still commonly planted in many situations, mainly as landscape ornamentals. They are a plant-it and forget-about-it genus of plants, typically living for about 20 years before needing to be replaced. They do well even when neglected, and can form a nice evergreen privacy hedge that flowers continuously throughout the year. They can handle hard prunings, able to regenerate even if cut back to just a few feet tall. For more information on Oleander (Nerium) plants, their various forms, and cultivation information, visit the Nerium page on this website:

Although these plants are fantastic for gardeners who prefer low-maintenance landscaping, their toxic qualities as well as their status as non-native plants may sway some horticulturalists away from their use. Thankfully, there are many alternatives to Oleander plants that can do just as well in the garden.

Whether you're a fan of Nerium shrubs or they rub you the wrong way (sometimes literally, as they can also cause contact dermatitis), these shrubs seem to be here to stay. Do you have any experience with these shrubs? Make sure to share in the comments below.

Until Next Time!

Resources and References:

The Jack-o-Lantern is one of the bastions of the Halloween season. Carving pumpkins is a part of many families' traditions around this holiday, and the practice has its roots in Irish folklore. The story begins with a man nicknamed Stingy Jack. He was given the moniker due to his reluctance to pay for a drink, which he convinced the Devil to foot the bill for. He invited the Devil to have a drink with him, and convinced the Devil to turn into coin that could be used to pay their tab. Once the Devil transformed, Jack decided to keep the money and put it into his pocket next to a silver cross he carried. This proximity to the cross prevented the Devil from changing back into its original form. 

Soon after this encounter, Jack died. Because of Jack's previous transgressions, he was not allowed entry into heaven. Jack was also not allowed into hell; the Devil was upset by all of the tricks Jack had played on him, and kept his word that he would not claim his soul. Jack was sent off into the dark night with only a burning coal to light his way through his purgatory. Jack placed the piece of coal into a carved out turnip, and as the legend goes, has been carrying it around with him as he aimlessly roams the earth. The ghostly figure that was once Stingy Jack was renamed Jack of the Lantern, which after some time was shortened to Jack O'Lantern. 

Immigrants from England, Ireland, and Scotland that came to the United States in the 1830's brought with them this practice, and changed the American pumpkin-carving tradition at this time of the year to one uniquely associated with the Halloween holiday. Nowadays, Jack O'Lanterns are typically carved from round, orange pumpkins and are set out on doorsteps and placed in displays for the season. The most commonly used pumpkins for carving are Connecticut Field Pumpkins, which are known as the original commercial Jack O'Lantern pumpkin.

The Halloween season is marked around the Bay Area with the opening of various pumpkin patches. One of the best ways to find one in your area is to get on Yelp and check out their map.

Now that you've got a place to get your pumpkin and a story to tell the kids while you're carving, you're all set for the holiday! 

Happy carving.

As you all are aware, it was Mother's Day this past Sunday! Unfortunately for me, my mom was out of town, but I still celebrated by taking myself to the famous San Jose Municipal Rose Garden, and did I have a great time! This is such a  beautiful time of the year to visit the rose garden. The blooms are fantastic, and you can take pretty, Instagram-worthy pictures of the rolling waves of roses laid out in front of you.

The San Jose Municipal Rose Garden is a 5 1/2-acre open space in the middle of the Rose Garden neighborhood in San Jose, set aside by the city at the request of the Santa Clara County Rose Society in 1927. The garden features many different varieties and colors of roses, a large reflection fountain, and plenty of space for picnics. For all of you rose-nerds out there, about 75% of the plants are hybrid-teas with a single high-centered bloom per stem, but the garden also features grandifloras, floribundas (my personal favorite), miniature roses, climbing roses, and polyanthas. 

I've included some of my pictures below; you'll feel like you were there with me! 

I hope you enjoyed my photos; until next time!

This is one of the best recipes I've discovered so far on my journey to become a better cook! These fantastic tasting shrimp are great for appetizers, to bring to dinner parties, or to have as a meal all on their own. And the bonus is, they're so quick and easy to make that everyone will be wowed when you whip them up on the fly. I really hope you'll all try this one. This recipe makes two servings of shrimp, and is fantastic when served with sliced french bread to soak up all that yummy sauce! 

1. Prep your ingredients! This step is key, as once everything is ready to go this recipe takes just a few minutes to prepare. 
   1. If you're starting with frozen shrimp, your first task will be to defrost them. This can be accomplished by putting your shrimp in a bowl of cool water, covering and letting it sit for 10 minutes. Dump the water out and test your shrimp. If they are not defrosted completely, repeat the process. Continue until your shrimp are defrosted. For me, this process usually takes about a half hour. 
   2. Peel and devein your shrimp.
   3. Pat shrimp dry, toss into a bowl and season with Kosher salt to taste and the smoked paprika. 
   4. Rinse, pat dry, and chop your parsley. 
   5. Peel and slice your garlic cloves. 
   6. Measure out your sherry wine and set aside.
   7. Measure out your EVOO.
2. Set a pan over Medium heat on your stovetop, then add the sliced garlic and EVOO to the pan. 
3. Cook the garlic in the oil over medium heat until it just starts to turn golden. The goal is to get the garlic to soften without adding too much color. 
4. Add your shrimp to the pan and turn the heat up to High. Stir the shrimp constantly for two minutes over high heat. At the end of two minutes, they should be starting to curl up nicely, but still not be completely cooked through. 
5. Add your sherry, and continue to stir constantly for another minute, until the sauce boils and the shrimp is cooked through.
6. Remove the pan from the heat, and add most of the parsley in. Stir to combine.
7. Split your shrimp in two, and serve over toasted sliced French bread (optional, but it's so good you're going to want to try it at least once!). Top with parsley. I also like to add a baby shake of cayenne over the top for a little spice!

I really hope you guys try this recipe. It's such a great summer dish, and so very tasty! 

I heard on the radio last week that the Bay Area is 'due for a big quake'. While I am wary to declare a full-out state of emergency in light of this news story, it did pique my interest in learning more about where fault lines and liquefaction zones are in the Bay Area. Luckily, the California Geological Survey just published a new interactive map of liquefaction zones for me to check out: 

While my home does not fall in the dark green liquefaction zones outlined in the left map above, there are many areas in San Jose and the greater Santa Clara County that do! Knowing where fault lines and liquefaction zones are is important in searching for homes; additional insurances may need to be purchased and the knowledge of fault lines and earthquake zones needs to be disclosed during the selling process. Knowing where fault lines are also can increase your preparedness for a quake when it does happen. Below, I've listed some great resources for residents of the South Bay Area who are curious about earthquakes:

CGS Fault Activity Map of California
CGS Earthquake Zones of Required Investigation
​Earthquakes: Ready.gov
California Geological Survey Resources and Information 

Until next time, enjoy the ride!