Fritillaria
( frit - il - LAY - ree - uh )
At-A-Glance InformationFritillaria, or Fritillary, is a genus of perennial flowering plants that grow from bulbs and need light shade to perform well. They require regular water during growth and blooming periods and produce colorful, somewhat odd-looking flowers. Stems reach between 6 inches to three feet tall and are topped with nodding flowers. Take care when planting these flowers in the landscape, as they are poisonous to pets and humans if ingested. The bulbs are especially toxic, and the foliage on some species has been reported to also cause contact dermatitis.
|
Fritillaria Species and Varietals
The genus Fritillaria is a member of the plant family Liliaceae, and includes somewhere between 100 and 150 distinct species. The best growing zones for Fritillary vary depending on the species. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
Fritillaria acmopetala (Pointed-Petal Fritillary) This species is native to rocky limestone areas in mountainous regions of the Middle East. It was first described in 1846 by Swiss botanist Pierre Edmond Boissier, and reaches between 12 and 28 inches tall when in bloom. Leaves are straight and narrow, and blooms are maroon to red with green and creamy-yellow markings. |
Fritillaria agrestis (Stinkbells) This species is endemic to California, mostly from Mendocino County through Ventura County. They do very well in clay, heavy soils, and are uncommonly seen in their native range. They form an erect stem that supports white and green to pinkish markings. They are marked with purple-brown on their inner surfaces, and have an unpleasant odor. |
Fritillaria atropurpurea (Spotted Fritillary, Purple Fritillary, Spotted Mountainbells, Spotted Missionbells, Leopard Lily) These flowers are native to the western United States, and are often found underneath trees in California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Oregon and North Dakota. Stems reach between 4 and 8 inches tall and are topped with nodding yellow-cream flowers heavily mottled with dark purple-brown. Stamens have very large yellow anthers. |
Fritillaria biflora (Mission Bells, Chocolate Lily) This species grows best in zones 7 and 14-21, and is native to California and northern Baja California, Mexico. It grows 6-16 inches tall and one to six brown bells on each stem that bloom between March and April each year. Variety 'Martha Roderick' has brownish-orange flowers with white centers. Subspecies Fritillaria biflora ineziana is endangered, and is known from one location in San Mateo county. |
Fritillaria camschatcensis (Black Lily, Chocolate Lily, Kamchatka Fritillary, Ricy Lily, Northern Rice-Root) Native to the Pacific Coast from Japan to the northwestern United States, this species gets 9-18 inches tall with deep purple bells. Grows best in zones A1-A3, 1-7 and 15-17. Flowers have a characteristic offensive odor and are pollinated by flies. |
Fritillaria eastwoodiae (Butte County Fritillary, Eastwood's Fritillary) This species of Fritillary is native to the Sierra Nevada foothills in California and southern Oregon, and reaches between 8 and 32 inches tall when in bloom. Flowers range in color from greenish yellow to red-orange, and commonly have green to yellow mottling on petals. They bloom in March through May and are found in dry open woodlands and chaparral environments. |
Fritillaria gentneri (Gentner's Fritillary) These flowers are native to southwestern Oregon and northern California and grow naturally in open woodlands and chaparral landscapes. Flowers bloom from March through July, and are different shades of red. This is an endangered species, and there are only 30 known populations of this plant. |
Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial, Lily of the Emperor) This species grows best in zones 1-7 and 14-17 and is native to Europe Flower stalks reach 3 feet tall and are topped with bells in colors like red, orange and yellow. A tuft of leaves tops each flower. Can take full sun in cooler climates, and has a slightly offensive smell. |
Fritillaria meleagris (Checkered Lily, Snakeshead Fritillary, Frog-Cup, Guinea-Hen Flower, Leper Lily, Lazarus Bell, Chequered Daffodil, Chess Flower) Grows best in zones 1-7 and 15-17; It is native to Europe and Asia, and can take occasional flooding. 1-3 bell-shaped flowers top each foot-tall stem and are checkered in colors like purple, pink and white. They are great in meadows. |
Fritillaria persica Native to Turkey, Iraq, Iran, Lebanon, Syria, Cyprus, and Israel, this species grows best in zones 2-7 and 14-17. It produces flower stems about 2-3 feet tall that carry up to 30 deep purple flowers. Emerging stems need frost protection in cold regions, and can take full sun in cooler climates. Varietal 'Adiyaman' |
Caring for Fritillaria
Fritillary flowers prefer to be planted in climates with some winter chill and protection from summertime hot temperatures. Fritillaria can be started from seed or bulb, and plants can also be purchased as starts from some nurseries. Bulbs are best planted in fall for a springtime bloom, and have a tendency to dry out relatively quickly, so they should be planted soon after purchase. Plant bulbs on their sides 3-4 inches deep and 6 inches apart for best coverage in a space in the garden that receives full sun to partial shade. They will bloom best in full sun exposure (between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day), but in the warmest climates will need afternoon dappled shade. They prefer soil that is very well-draining and fertile, with a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0. If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Mulch around the base of plants to increase soil moisture retention, maintain soil temperatures, and suppress weed growth.
Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system. At maturity, Fritillaria prefer the soil around their bulbs to be kept moist. They are prone to root rot in soils that allow standing water, however, so make sure that soil drains well. In the active growing and blooming season, it is recommended that they receive about an inch of water per week. Fertilize yearly in early springtime with a application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Once foliage has died back, withhold water and allow plants to enter dormancy. Keep the area around their roots relatively dry during this period of time. Some gardeners find that plants are stronger and grow better if a second compost application is performed in fall to help send even more nutrients down into the bulb. Yellowed or faded foliage can be cut off to just above ground level to neaten up the appearance of plants as they enter dormancy. Flower spikes can be deadheaded when they fade. Taller varieties, such as the taller Crown Imperials, may need staking in windy areas.
Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system. At maturity, Fritillaria prefer the soil around their bulbs to be kept moist. They are prone to root rot in soils that allow standing water, however, so make sure that soil drains well. In the active growing and blooming season, it is recommended that they receive about an inch of water per week. Fertilize yearly in early springtime with a application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Once foliage has died back, withhold water and allow plants to enter dormancy. Keep the area around their roots relatively dry during this period of time. Some gardeners find that plants are stronger and grow better if a second compost application is performed in fall to help send even more nutrients down into the bulb. Yellowed or faded foliage can be cut off to just above ground level to neaten up the appearance of plants as they enter dormancy. Flower spikes can be deadheaded when they fade. Taller varieties, such as the taller Crown Imperials, may need staking in windy areas.
Propagation
Fritillaria can be propagated either by division or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Fritillaria, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Fritillaria by Seed
Propagating Fritillaria by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
Propagating Fritillaria by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. The seed heads on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
- In either late winter or early springtime, get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-6 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Propagating Fritillaria by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
- Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the root(s). Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
- Start to tease apart the roots with your gloved fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick root section attached.
- Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divisions and water thoroughly.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout in the next growing season.
Problems and Pests
Fritillaries are susceptible to the following pests and diseases:
- Red Lily Beetle
- Lily Disease (Botrytis elliptica)
- Snails and Slugs
Gallery
Videos
How to use Fritillaria in cut flower arrangements.
|
How to grow and care for these plants.
|
Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 328 - 329, Fritillaria
If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or photos you’d like to add to the gallery, please let me know by sending me a message using the button below!