Garrya
( GAR - ee - uh )
At-A-Glance Information
|
Garrya is commonly referred to as Silktassel or Tassel Bush, due to its silky, drooping catkins that are present from the middle of winter through springtime. Male tree catkins are larger than those on female trees. Native to the West Coast, these evergreen shrubs are prized for their attractive foliage. Both male and female plants must be present in the area (Garrya trees are dioecious) for dry, grapelike clusters of fruit to appear. They need full sun or partial shade, and the fruit attracts birds. Garrya shrubs are frequently grown as specimens in landscapes, against walls and fences, or as windbreaks.
|
Garrya Species and Varietals
The genus Garrya includes around 18 distinct species and is a member of the plant family Garryaceae. Garrya growing zones vary by species. See the descriptions below for more information. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
|
Garrya elliptica (Coast Silktassel) Grows best in zones 4-9 and 14-24. These shrubs are native to the Coast Ranges from Oregon through California. They are densely foliaged, and can reach 8-15 feet tall and wide in gardens; shrubs can be trained as small trees. Leaves are dark green on top, gray and wooly underneath. Male catkins are greenish yellow, and fruits on female trees are purple and last through the summer. Can be used as a screen or hedge, but also does well as a specimen plant. Varieties 'Evie' and 'James Roof' (pictured) have especially long catkins. |
|
|
Garrya fremontii (Fremont Silktassel) Grows in zones 3-10, 12, and 14-17. Native to the mountains of the West Coast, these can get to be 9 feet tall and just as wide. Leaves are glossy and smooth, and yellow-green on top and underneath. Yellowish or purple catkins appear on male plants, and purple or black fruit on female plants. Hardy to heat and cold. |
Caring for and pruning Garrya shrubs
Plant Garrya shrubs in fall or spring in well-draining soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 8.0. These shrubs actually prefer soil that is a bit poor, and will not grow well in very rich soil Water regularly for the first two years until the plant has established itself, and then reduce watering except for during long, hot dry spells. Garrya shrubs do not need fertilizing unless they are grown in particularly poor soil, in which case a slow-release balanced fertilizer can be applied yearly in early springtime. Apply a thick layer of mulch to increase soil water retention. Prune Garrya in the early springtime, when catkins are starting to fade but before foliage growth has taken off. Prune only to remove errant or damaged branches. If the plant needs to be rejuvenated, do it over a few years; this will ensure the plant doesn't go into shock and possibly die. Garrya shrubs can be grown as informal hedges; in this situation, use hand shears instead of a hedge trimmer to avoid damaging the shrub.
Propagation
Garrya can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Garrya by Cutting
Propagating Garrya by Seed
Propagating Garrya by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Garrya by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds between May and August. Strip ripened fruits from branches Remove the seeds from the fruits by rubbing them against a fine mesh screen. Rinse the seeds carefully and set them out to dry on a paper towel. There are two seeds per fruit.
- Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 30-40 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Pot up as needed, and ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Problems and Pests
Although Garrya shrubs are generally pest-free, they do suffer from the following diseases:
- Leaf Spot
- Honey Fungus
Gallery
Garryas grow well against walls, though they may need a little more water if they're also under an overhang.
|
Garrya trees are great specimen trees; in wintertime, their catkins will be on full display.
|
Plant Garrya shrubs or trees close to walkways, where their long catkins can be admired from below.
|
Videos
|
All about using Garrya elliptica to add winter interest to your garden.
|
Garrya elliptica growing information.
|
|
All about the Garrya elliptica variety 'James Roof'.
|
A short video about Silk Tassel plant.
|
Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 333, Garrya
If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or photos you’d like to add to the gallery, please let me know by sending me a message using the button below!
