Portulacaria
( port - yew - lak - KAY - ree - uh )
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At-A-Glance InformationThis genus of succulent perennials, also called Elephant's Bush, Dwarf Jade, or Porkbush, is native to South Africa (the Eastern Cape, Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal north to Eswatini and Mozambique). These plants can grow in either full sun or shade and need little to moderate water to perform well in the landscape. Plants vary in habit and size, but most have succulent green foliage and fleshy contrasting stems, and look a little like Jade plants. Outdoors (in frost-free climates), it can be used as an informal hedge or screening plant, as groundcover or erosion control on sloped areas, or in containers. They are commonly kept as indoor plants in cooler zones, and are also popular subjects for bonsai. These succulents are also considered edimentals, and produce edible foliage, making them unique additions to herb gardens and food forests.
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Portulacaria Species and Varietals
The genus Portulacaria is a member of the plant family Didiereaceae and includes 7 species. Portulacaria plants perform best when grown in USDA hardiness zones 9-11. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Portulacaria afra (Elephant Bush, Elephant Food, Spekboom, Dwarf Jade Plant, Miniature Jade, Pork Bush, African Purslane Tree, Rainbow Bush, SiDondwane, Tshilepwete, iGqwanitsha, inTelezi, isAmbilane, iNdibili) This small-leaved succulent produces green leaves on reddish fleshy stems, and forms an upright shrub or small tree to between 8 and 15 feet tall when mature. Cultivars include 'Limpopo' (larger leaves than the species), 'Prostrata' (with a low-growing habit; good for groundcover), 'Aurea' (compact, upright with rounded leaves that flush bright yellow in sun), 'Variegata' (pictured, with variegated foliage), and 'Medio-Picta' (variegated leaves with lighter centers). |
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Portulacaria armiana (Whipstick-Porkbush, Whip Porkbush, Large-Leafed Spekboom) This rare species produces large, waxy green leaves and extremely tall flower inflorescences (called whipsticks), that can reach up to 26 feet tall when in bloom. It is native to southwestern regions of Namibia. The main body of these plants reaches up to between 1.5 and 2.5 feet tall and 3 feet wide. Leaves are green and succulent and flowers are white. |
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Portulacaria namaquensis (Ceraria namaquensis) (Namaqua Porkbush, Namaqua Portulacaria) This species grows to reach up to 4-6 feet tall and produces small club-shaped succulent leaves. Foliage is deciduous. Stems are stout, white to flushed pink-red and grow upwards, forking as they mature. When nursery-grown, these plants are typically grafted to Portulacaria afra rootstock to improve resiliencies. |
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Portulacaria pygmaea (Ceraria pygmaea) (Pygmy Porkbush, Dwarf Porkbush, Dwergspekboom) This rare species of succulent shrub is native to South Africa and Namibia, and reaches up to 2-8 inches tall and 12 inches wide at maturity. Foliage is fleshy and blue-green, and stems are white to reddish. These are slow-growing plants, and over time produce a thick, swollen basal caudex that is prized in the bonsai community. |
Caring for Portulacaria
Plant Portulacaria succulents in a space in the landscape that receives full sun; ideally, they appreciate between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day for the best overall growth. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a circumneutral pH of between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of inorganic or low-organic mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, these plants are considered drought-tolerant, able to get by on rainwater alone for much of the year with supplemental waterings during extended periods of dry, warm weather. Allow soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 1 inch of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Portulacaria plants are considered long-lived perennial succulents, able to survive in the landscape for over 50 years; they can live for hundreds of years in their native landscape.
Caring for Portulacaria in Containers
Portulacaria plants do very well in the ground but can also be grown in containers; they are commonly chosen for beginner bonsai projects. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. These plants prefer a rocky or sandy substrate that is well-draining. Top with a layer of rock mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Portulacaria plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, allow the container to dry out completely between waterings. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Caring for Portulacaria Indoors
Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. These plants prefer a rocky or sandy substrate that is well-draining. Top with a layer of rock mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Place the Portulacaria in a spot that receives bright (either direct or indirect) light. They do very well in south or west-facing windows. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Portulacaria plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground but are still considered to be quite drought-tolerant. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Harvesting Portulacaria
The foliage of Portulacaria plants is edible, and are juicy and crunchy with a pleasant, Citrus-like sour taste. They can be consumed raw or cooked, and are commonly added to salads, soups, and stews. Leaves will taste more acidic in the morning and become milder in the evening hours. Pick firm, bright green leaves from the outer parts of the plant, and cleanly snap them off from their attachments, placing them in a container. Once harvesting is complete, bring the leaves inside and rinse them with clean water. As a general rule, never harvest more than one third of the total foliage on the plant to avoid shock. The leaves are best used fresh, but can also be stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to a week. To store leaves for longer periods of time, they will need to be processed. They can be added to pickles or chutneys, and are also commonly dried. Slice or prick the plump leaves in half lengthwise to break through the thick outer skin and speed up the interior moisture release. They can then be put into an oven under 120 degrees Fahrenheit with the door slightly open and checked every hour, or set in the food dehydrator on low (between 95 and 115 degrees Fahrenheit) for 6 to 12 hours. They are done when they feel completely brittle, crisp, or crackly and snap easily with no soft or damp center. Store the dried leaves in an airtight glass container in a cool, dark, dry place. The dried leaves can be used as a spice to add a citrus, bright flavor to dishes.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 1 inch of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season, and remove spent flower spikes to neaten up the appearance of plants and encourage reblooms. Portulacaria plants are considered long-lived perennial succulents, able to survive in the landscape for over 50 years; they can live for hundreds of years in their native landscape.
Caring for Portulacaria in Containers
Portulacaria plants do very well in the ground but can also be grown in containers; they are commonly chosen for beginner bonsai projects. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. These plants prefer a rocky or sandy substrate that is well-draining. Top with a layer of rock mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Portulacaria plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, allow the container to dry out completely between waterings. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Caring for Portulacaria Indoors
Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. These plants prefer a rocky or sandy substrate that is well-draining. Top with a layer of rock mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Place the Portulacaria in a spot that receives bright (either direct or indirect) light. They do very well in south or west-facing windows. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Portulacaria plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground but are still considered to be quite drought-tolerant. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Harvesting Portulacaria
The foliage of Portulacaria plants is edible, and are juicy and crunchy with a pleasant, Citrus-like sour taste. They can be consumed raw or cooked, and are commonly added to salads, soups, and stews. Leaves will taste more acidic in the morning and become milder in the evening hours. Pick firm, bright green leaves from the outer parts of the plant, and cleanly snap them off from their attachments, placing them in a container. Once harvesting is complete, bring the leaves inside and rinse them with clean water. As a general rule, never harvest more than one third of the total foliage on the plant to avoid shock. The leaves are best used fresh, but can also be stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to a week. To store leaves for longer periods of time, they will need to be processed. They can be added to pickles or chutneys, and are also commonly dried. Slice or prick the plump leaves in half lengthwise to break through the thick outer skin and speed up the interior moisture release. They can then be put into an oven under 120 degrees Fahrenheit with the door slightly open and checked every hour, or set in the food dehydrator on low (between 95 and 115 degrees Fahrenheit) for 6 to 12 hours. They are done when they feel completely brittle, crisp, or crackly and snap easily with no soft or damp center. Store the dried leaves in an airtight glass container in a cool, dark, dry place. The dried leaves can be used as a spice to add a citrus, bright flavor to dishes.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Propagation
The best way to propagate Portulacaria succulents is by cutting in springtime. To propagate your plant, you will need a clean, sharp knife or garden shears and a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix (if you will not be replanting in the ground). When you have gathered your materials, follow the directions below to propagate your plant:
- Use your clean, sharp garden shears or knife to cut off a piece of stem with leaves. Place this cutting on its side and leave it in a dry, warm, shaded spot for at least three days. This will cause the root end to heal and form a hard callous. Doing this helps the plant avoid root rot when it gets planted in potting mix.
- Fill your pot with the potting mix described above, and then place the calloused end of your cutting into the soil. Push down until the cutting can stay upright without assistance. Place the pot in a spot that receives bright, indirect light and water lightly once a week. Do not allow the soil to become too moist or dry out completely.
- Your cutting should grow roots in about two weeks, whether or not it is placed in potting medium. To check for roots, lightly tug on the plant. If it resists, you have roots.
Problems and Pests
Portulacaria plants can be susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases in the landscape:
- Mealybugs
- Scale Insects
- Root Rot
- Spider Mites
- Aphids
Gallery
Mounding, prostrate Portulacaria fills in this succulent bed alongside Opuntia and Aloe.
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Portulacaria is used in this garden to spill over a retaining wall.
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These shrubs can become quite large when grown in the ground.
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Videos
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Resources
The Easiest Beginner Bonsai
Wikipedia: Portulacaria
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 526, Portulacaria afra
