Shepherdia
( shef - HAIR - dee - uh )
At-A-Glance InformationThis genus of deciduous shrubs is also called Silver Buffaloberry or Bullberry and includes species which need full sun and little to regular water to perform well in the landscape. These shrubs are valuable plants for wildlife; the bright berries will attract birds to the garden. They can take a variety of harsh conditions, including wind, cold, drought, and poor soil and have a suckering, spreading habit. Most species reach up to between 3 and 20 feet tall at maturity. If a male and female plant are near each other, the female plants will produce small sour bright red to orange berries that are great in jams and jellies. Use Shepherdia in the landscape to form windbreaks, hedges, or screens, as erosion control on sloped areas, or as specimens in the landscape. They are commonly included in food forests, wildlife gardens, and drought-tolerant landscapes.
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Shepherdia Species and Varietals
The genus Shepherdia is a member of the plant family Elaeagnaceae, and includes three living species. The shrubs in this genus are closely related to those in Elaeagnus (Silverberry). They do best in USDA hardiness zones 2-9 or Sunset growing zones 1-3, 7 and 10. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Shepherdia argentea (Silver Buffaloberry, Bull Berry, Thorny Buffaloberry, Spiny Buffaloberry, Buffalo Berry) These plants are native to central and western areas of North America, and are deciduous shrubs that reach up to between 6.5 and 19.5 feet tall at maturity. Foliage is green and oval, with a covering of fine, silvery hairs, especially on leaf undersides. Flowers are pale yellow, and are followed by bright red fleshy fruits that are edible but bitter. Cultivars include 'Xanthocarpa' (with yellow fruit), 'Goldeneye' (with golden fruits), 'Sakakawea' (cold-hardy) and 'Silver Totem' (upright, narrow habit to 8-12 feet tall). |
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Shepherdia canadensis (Canada Buffaloberry, Russet Buffaloberry, Soopolallie, Soapberry, Foamberry) This species forms a deciduous shrub that reaches up to 13 feet tall at maturity. The leaves are green above and white to brownish underneath. Fruits are typically red, though varieties have yellow berries. They have a bitter taste. Cultivar 'Rubra' produces deep red fruits. |
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Shepherdia rotundifolia (Roundleaf Buffaloberry, Silverleaf) These evergreen shrubs reach between 3 and 6 feet tall and are native to the southwestern United States. Foliage is grey-green and oval to egg-shaped. Leaves are hairy and pale underneath. Flowers are tiny and golden to greenish yellow, and fruits that follow are edible. |
Caring for shepherdia
Plant Silverberry shrubs in full sun to partial shade. They appreciate between 6 and 8 hours of daily sunlight. If they are grown in too shaded of a space, they can become less robust and fruit production will drop significantly. These shrubs can tolerate a wide range of soil types, but it is important that it is well-draining. Amend soil with plenty of organic matter before planting your shrub, as this will improve soil fertility and drainage. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new shrubs regularly to help establish a strong root system. At maturity, these shrubs are drought-tolerant and only really need to be deep watered during the warmer months of the year. Avoid the soil becoming waterlogged, as this can cause issues with root rot.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is not necessary; these shrubs have a beautiful habit when left to their own devices; simply remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches when they appear. If shrubs need rejuvenating, it is best to hard prune in late winter or early springtime before new growth starts to emerge. At this time, take 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems back to the ground. Repeat the process in the two subsequent years, and after the fourth year, the shrub should bounce back in full with a full new canopy. Shepherdia shrubs can be expected to survive in the landscape for 50 to 60 years or more before needing to be replaced.
Harvesting Shepherdia
Shepherdia shrubs are grown for their edible berries as well as their ornamental value. The species most commonly cultivated for their fruits are Shepherdia argentea (Silver Buffaloberry), Shepherdia canadensis (Canada Buffaloberry) and Shepherdia rotundifolia (Roundleaf Buffaloberry). Shepherdia shrubs produce small, single-seeded berries that Shepherdia shrubs are dioecious, meaning that male and female flowers grow on separate individual shrubs. There must be a male and female plant in proximity to one another if the female plant is to produce fruits. On average, shrubs will yield between 10 and 30 pounds of berries each season after reaching maturity (7-10 years of age). The fruits themselves are small, fleshy, oval or spherical drupes up to 1/4 inch long, and have a tart, bitter astringent flavor coupled with a uniquely juicy yet soapy texture. It is often compared to a sharp Cranberry.
The berries are high in Vitamin C and can be eaten raw, but are more commonly used to make preserves and added to other recipes. These berries have thin skin and very juicy inner flesh with a tart, acidic flavor. In most cases, a good amount of sugar is needed in Silverberry recipes to hide the bitter taste of the fruit. The longer the fruits are left on shrubs, the sweeter they will become; many foragers will wait to harvest until after the first frost, which softens the fruits and increases sweetness. To harvest, set up a tarp or sheet underneath the shrub's canopy. Tap the branches with a smooth stick or dowel. Ripe fruits will drop from the shrub onto the cloth, and unripe fruits will stay on the branch. Lift the sheet after branches have all been shaken and put the harvest into a bucket(s) of water if you will be using the berries within the next week. Skim off and discard any debris or floating berries. The berries can then be dried on the countertop in a single layer, placed in an airtight container, and stored in the fridge. To dehydrate, rinse berries and place in a single layer in a food dehydrator at 135 degrees Fahrenheit for about 8 hours. They should feel slightly chewy and lose about half their size, similar to a Raisin, rather than becoming rock hard. They can be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for 6 to 12 months. To freeze berries, skip the rinsing process and lay them out in shallow cookie trays in the freezer. Once completely frozen, berries can be transferred to a larger container in the freezer. They will stay good for 12 to 18 months.
Because Buffaloberries have a natural saponin content, it is recommended to consume them in moderation. Fresh, they can be used in smoothies, syrups, jams and jellies, and sauces. The berries are also used to make pie filling or whipped into an indigenous preparation called Indian Ice Cream. Dried berries can be used in baked goods or in any dish as a substitute for Currants or Raisins. Frozen berries can be added to smoothies or ice creams, or simply thawed and incorporated into whipped foams, jellies and preserves, compotes and glazes, or sauces and syrups.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is not necessary; these shrubs have a beautiful habit when left to their own devices; simply remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches when they appear. If shrubs need rejuvenating, it is best to hard prune in late winter or early springtime before new growth starts to emerge. At this time, take 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems back to the ground. Repeat the process in the two subsequent years, and after the fourth year, the shrub should bounce back in full with a full new canopy. Shepherdia shrubs can be expected to survive in the landscape for 50 to 60 years or more before needing to be replaced.
Harvesting Shepherdia
Shepherdia shrubs are grown for their edible berries as well as their ornamental value. The species most commonly cultivated for their fruits are Shepherdia argentea (Silver Buffaloberry), Shepherdia canadensis (Canada Buffaloberry) and Shepherdia rotundifolia (Roundleaf Buffaloberry). Shepherdia shrubs produce small, single-seeded berries that Shepherdia shrubs are dioecious, meaning that male and female flowers grow on separate individual shrubs. There must be a male and female plant in proximity to one another if the female plant is to produce fruits. On average, shrubs will yield between 10 and 30 pounds of berries each season after reaching maturity (7-10 years of age). The fruits themselves are small, fleshy, oval or spherical drupes up to 1/4 inch long, and have a tart, bitter astringent flavor coupled with a uniquely juicy yet soapy texture. It is often compared to a sharp Cranberry.
The berries are high in Vitamin C and can be eaten raw, but are more commonly used to make preserves and added to other recipes. These berries have thin skin and very juicy inner flesh with a tart, acidic flavor. In most cases, a good amount of sugar is needed in Silverberry recipes to hide the bitter taste of the fruit. The longer the fruits are left on shrubs, the sweeter they will become; many foragers will wait to harvest until after the first frost, which softens the fruits and increases sweetness. To harvest, set up a tarp or sheet underneath the shrub's canopy. Tap the branches with a smooth stick or dowel. Ripe fruits will drop from the shrub onto the cloth, and unripe fruits will stay on the branch. Lift the sheet after branches have all been shaken and put the harvest into a bucket(s) of water if you will be using the berries within the next week. Skim off and discard any debris or floating berries. The berries can then be dried on the countertop in a single layer, placed in an airtight container, and stored in the fridge. To dehydrate, rinse berries and place in a single layer in a food dehydrator at 135 degrees Fahrenheit for about 8 hours. They should feel slightly chewy and lose about half their size, similar to a Raisin, rather than becoming rock hard. They can be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for 6 to 12 months. To freeze berries, skip the rinsing process and lay them out in shallow cookie trays in the freezer. Once completely frozen, berries can be transferred to a larger container in the freezer. They will stay good for 12 to 18 months.
Because Buffaloberries have a natural saponin content, it is recommended to consume them in moderation. Fresh, they can be used in smoothies, syrups, jams and jellies, and sauces. The berries are also used to make pie filling or whipped into an indigenous preparation called Indian Ice Cream. Dried berries can be used in baked goods or in any dish as a substitute for Currants or Raisins. Frozen berries can be added to smoothies or ice creams, or simply thawed and incorporated into whipped foams, jellies and preserves, compotes and glazes, or sauces and syrups.
Disclaimer: Information contained on this website is strictly and categorically intended as a reference to be used in conjunction with experts in your area. Foraging and consumption of plant parts should never begin without the guidance and approval of a local plant specialist. The providers of this website accept no liability for the use or misuse of information contained in this website.
Propagation
Silver Buffaloberry can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Shepherdia by Cutting
Propagating Shepherdia by Seed
Propagating Shepherdia by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Shepherdia by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- Harvest seeds when fruits are ripe in mid-summer to fall, and will have attained their full color, which can be bright red, orange-red, yellow, or translucent, depending on the species and cultivar grown. Harvest berries and crush them to release the pit inside. Rinse them and set them aside to dry, ensuring all flesh has been removed.
- Seeds will need to be scarified first, either using chemicals or heat. Place the seeds in a concentrated sulfuric acid treatment for 5 minutes, stirring vigorously during the first 30 seconds to soften the outer seed coat. Alternatively, seeds can be left in a hot water soak for 12 or more hours.
- Place scarified seeds in a sealable bag filled with moistened peat moss or sand, and place in the refrigerator or similarly cool, dark area. Leave them for between 60 and 100 days, and then remove them so they can be sown.
- Water a seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water gently with a spray bottle to avoid dislodging them. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 20-60 days from sowing after completing the required dormancy-breaking pretreatments. Once seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home in the landscape.
Problems and Pests
Shepherdia shrubs are generally resistant to pests and diseases. For information on commonly-encountered pests and diseases in the landscape, see the following links:
Gallery
Videos
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All about eating Silver Buffaloberry fruit.
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All about these wonderful berries.
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All about Silver Buffaloberry shrubs.
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Learn about this interesting species of fruiting shrubs.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 603, Shepherdia argentea (Silver Buffaloberry, Silverberry)