A Year in the Garden
"The love of gardening is a seed once sown that never dies."
- Gertrude Jeckyll
- Gertrude Jeckyll
introduction
The practice of caring for a garden space is both time consuming and rewarding; it is much more than just planting plants and watching them grow. With the knowledge that you now have under your belt, you're armed with problem-solving, evidence based best practices for many garden activities, and the vision to imagine a beautiful, curated garden space for you and your loved ones to enjoy. The following guide will take you through the step-by-step process of evaluating your space, designing a garden calendar, and creating a recording system for your garden activities.
Gather your materials
The first thing you'll want to consider when getting your garden in order is what will be the best method of keeping track of your plants, cleaning, composting, fertilizing, and related tasks. Some people prefer a checklist pinned to the back of a door, others prefer journaling, and still others like the flexibility and usefulness of a binder. There is always the option to record your gardening information on the computer as well; the possibilities really are endless. I have created a system that works for many gardeners using a simple binder and printable pages, accessible here:
In the module that follows, there will be bolded notes that indicate which page in the binder certain elements should be recorded. If you are creating your own garden binder, these notes can be ignored. There also are many materials that you'll need while caring for your garden. Purchasing these items before beginning your gardening projects is ideal, but they can also be purchased on an as-needed basis. To simplify the process of figuring out what you'll need, I've put together a curated list of garden tools and accessories with explanations and use notes. It can be accessed here:
Once you've got a plan for garden care and have all the tools you'll need to complete maintenance tasks, you're ready to start investigating and caring for your space.
Know your space
Every garden is a unique space; even two adjacent, identical landscapes will have different needs and possible issues. This first garden project is centered around gathering information about your property and the existing plants and animals that call it home. In your binder, you'll want to begin by recording your address, including your county (Garden Information & Contacts). You'll then want to go to your County Assessor's website, which can be found most quickly by googling (for example, Fremont County Assessor, Marin County Assessor, etc.). Navigate through the site to find parcel and property assessment information, and locate your parcel on the provided map. Record your parcel number in your binder (Garden Information & Contacts). Then, you'll want to calculate your square footage. If you already know how many square feet your property is, you're ahead of the game. If you're not familiar with this information, that's alright, as well. A quick Google of your address will bring up real estate websites that will have this information. A good website to choose for this information is Redfin, which lists the total square footage of a property in the 'About This Home' section, as well as the square footage of the home itself. Other websites will have this same information, as well. Go ahead and record this information in your binder (Garden Information & Contacts). Although these steps may not seem like they have too much to do with the gardening process, they will get you situated and possibly provide you with information that you didn't know you needed down the line. When everything you need is recorded in one place, problems are much easier to solve.
The next task to complete is to find the average high and low temperatures for your city. This can be easily accessed by simply googling 'average temperatures by month for _______, CA'. This should give you a great idea of what to expect as far as temperature fluctuations month-to-month as well as an overview of the average rainfall for each month in your area. Next, if you haven't done so already, find your Sunset and USDA growing zones. If you need help finding this information, click the link below. After you have gathered this climate information, make sure to log it in your garden binder for future reference (Garden Information & Contacts)..
The next task to complete is to find the average high and low temperatures for your city. This can be easily accessed by simply googling 'average temperatures by month for _______, CA'. This should give you a great idea of what to expect as far as temperature fluctuations month-to-month as well as an overview of the average rainfall for each month in your area. Next, if you haven't done so already, find your Sunset and USDA growing zones. If you need help finding this information, click the link below. After you have gathered this climate information, make sure to log it in your garden binder for future reference (Garden Information & Contacts)..
Working with HOAs and other Restrictions
Sometimes, gardening projects need to be reviewed by another party before they are started. In housing communities with HOAs, apartment or condominium complexes, and rented properties this situation is common. For example, many homeowners’ associations have rules prohibiting homeowners from growing food in their yards or from selling food grown on their property
If you live in one of these complexes, it is a good idea to look at your HOA's Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&R's) or your rental agreement to investigate whether gardening projects are mentioned. If they are not, this does not necessarily mean that you're in the clear to freely change your outdoor spaces. It is important to still check with your HOA, rental manager or property owner to clarify. Although many people believe the opposite, I think it is better to ask for permission instead of forgiveness. Gardening in this way ensures that time is not wasted on projects that need to be dismantled later and money is not spent on plants that will just get pulled right back out of the ground. It is important to note, if your garden is under the purview of a Homeowner's Association, that in 2013 The Governor signed AB 2104 into law to clarify that homeowners in common interest developments (like HOAs) can plant “climate appropriate landscaping” without fear of being fined. Unfortunately some residents have been fined by HOAs for planting drought tolerant landscaping and this law ended that practice. The law was enacted to ultimately help improve water supply, water quality, and more.
Restrictions also exist on properties not under the purview of an HOA or property manager. There are many laws that affect the way we garden, what we plant, and how we dispose of waste. For more information on which laws affect gardening activities on your property, see the following page:
fire proofing your property - new rules for 2025 with link to article
Sometimes, gardening projects need to be reviewed by another party before they are started. In housing communities with HOAs, apartment or condominium complexes, and rented properties this situation is common. For example, many homeowners’ associations have rules prohibiting homeowners from growing food in their yards or from selling food grown on their property
If you live in one of these complexes, it is a good idea to look at your HOA's Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&R's) or your rental agreement to investigate whether gardening projects are mentioned. If they are not, this does not necessarily mean that you're in the clear to freely change your outdoor spaces. It is important to still check with your HOA, rental manager or property owner to clarify. Although many people believe the opposite, I think it is better to ask for permission instead of forgiveness. Gardening in this way ensures that time is not wasted on projects that need to be dismantled later and money is not spent on plants that will just get pulled right back out of the ground. It is important to note, if your garden is under the purview of a Homeowner's Association, that in 2013 The Governor signed AB 2104 into law to clarify that homeowners in common interest developments (like HOAs) can plant “climate appropriate landscaping” without fear of being fined. Unfortunately some residents have been fined by HOAs for planting drought tolerant landscaping and this law ended that practice. The law was enacted to ultimately help improve water supply, water quality, and more.
Restrictions also exist on properties not under the purview of an HOA or property manager. There are many laws that affect the way we garden, what we plant, and how we dispose of waste. For more information on which laws affect gardening activities on your property, see the following page:
fire proofing your property - new rules for 2025 with link to article
Soil Testing
Getting to know your type of soil, including its pH and relative amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is a fundamental part of gardening successfully. Gaining this information will let you know which garden projects to begin with, as well. If your garden needs more of any nutrient, providing it in advance to installing any plants is ideal. This will ensure that your garden soil reaches a balance of nutrients that will be available to new plantings, and also means that young plant roots will not be burned by fertilizers or otherwise harmed by incorrect soil nutrition. A great way to complete this testing is by purchasing a kit, such as the one linked here. Following the instructions for soil testing kits is straightforward, affordable, and only requires a small amount of soil. The best part is, most soil kits come with more than one test's worth of materials, so you can test different areas of your garden, retest as often as you'd like, and even test friends' and family members' soil for them if you'd like. If you fully completed the homework assignment for the Soil module, you'll have done soil testing already, and can input that information instead of testing again (Soil Testing).
Getting to know your type of soil, including its pH and relative amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is a fundamental part of gardening successfully. Gaining this information will let you know which garden projects to begin with, as well. If your garden needs more of any nutrient, providing it in advance to installing any plants is ideal. This will ensure that your garden soil reaches a balance of nutrients that will be available to new plantings, and also means that young plant roots will not be burned by fertilizers or otherwise harmed by incorrect soil nutrition. A great way to complete this testing is by purchasing a kit, such as the one linked here. Following the instructions for soil testing kits is straightforward, affordable, and only requires a small amount of soil. The best part is, most soil kits come with more than one test's worth of materials, so you can test different areas of your garden, retest as often as you'd like, and even test friends' and family members' soil for them if you'd like. If you fully completed the homework assignment for the Soil module, you'll have done soil testing already, and can input that information instead of testing again (Soil Testing).
Testing soil also includes learning the type of soil you have, which affects drainage. If you completed the homework for the Soil module, you also did a soil test for this purpose, and can enter what you found into your binder (Soil Testing). You can do a retest at this time as well, using either of the following methods:
Feel Method
Testing your soil type can be as simple as feeling your soil by moistening it and rolling it into a ball. Once you've got a ball, rub it between your thumb and forefinger, flattening it a bit. Notice its characteristics and compare them with the descriptions below:
Feel Method
Testing your soil type can be as simple as feeling your soil by moistening it and rolling it into a ball. Once you've got a ball, rub it between your thumb and forefinger, flattening it a bit. Notice its characteristics and compare them with the descriptions below:
- Sandy Soil will not form a ball when rolled between your fingers, and will crumble easily. The consistency will be 'rockier' than other soils.
- Silty Soil is smooth to the touch, almost soapy-slick. When rolled between your fingers, this soil will leave dirt on your skin.
- Clay Soil feels sticky when moistened, and will easily form a ball or sausage-shape when rolled between the hands or fingers.
- Peaty Soil, like sandy soil, will not form a ball when rolled. If you have peaty soil, you will be able to squeeze water out of it, like you would with a sponge.
- Loamy Soil is smooth but partly gritty, and will form a sticky ball that crumbles easily.
Mason Jar Method
If you're interested in finding out what type of soil you have in a more visual way, you'll like the mason jar method. Fill a mason jar up halfway with a soil sample from your planting area. Then, fill the rest of the jar with water, leaving a little air at the top for shaking room. Shake vigorously for a few minutes so that all of the particles are suspended in the water. Let the soil settle overnight. The next morning, you'll be able to see clear layers in the jar. The bottom layer is usually sand and any small rocks that may be in your soil. The next layer up will be silt particles. Above that will be your clay particles, and then the added water. There may be some organic matter floating on the top of the water. Next, look at the color of your soil. Lighter soil usually has less organic content than dark soil. |
Testing your soil is a task that needs to be completed every three to five years for nutrition, texture, and drainage. The best time of the year to test soil is in the fall or winter, when added fertilizers and amendments have had time to break down and incorporate into the soil. If soil has serious problems or if you'd simply like more information about your soil, you can send a sample to a lab. This process is time-consuming and expensive, but can answer a lot of questions you may have about your soil's health. The best time to send in samples is during fall and winter, when the labs are not as busy, and you'll get your test results back in a shorter amount of time. For more information on soil and why it is so important to the planning of a successful garden, visit the soil module of this course:
Mapping Sun Exposure on Your Property
Sun exposure is one of the fundamental pieces of information that you'll need to gather in planning your garden. All plants have a sweet spot as far as the amount of sunlight required per day goes. Some plants love the shade, others love the sun, and still others have more specific needs, like a combination of morning sun and afternoon shade. The sun exposure on your property is affected both by the position of the sun in the sky, which changes according to season, and surrounding structures (like fences and buildings) and large plants, which will cast shadows. Each day, sunlight passes over your property, a completely free-of-cost, life-giving resource that you can manipulate and use to grow your chosen plants. In designing a garden space, the importance of mapping sun exposure cannot be understated.
Many gardeners are already familiar with the path sunlight takes across their property, but for those who are not, there are myriad resources to use. My personal preference is an app called Sun Seeker. Check it out by clicking the link below:
Sun exposure is one of the fundamental pieces of information that you'll need to gather in planning your garden. All plants have a sweet spot as far as the amount of sunlight required per day goes. Some plants love the shade, others love the sun, and still others have more specific needs, like a combination of morning sun and afternoon shade. The sun exposure on your property is affected both by the position of the sun in the sky, which changes according to season, and surrounding structures (like fences and buildings) and large plants, which will cast shadows. Each day, sunlight passes over your property, a completely free-of-cost, life-giving resource that you can manipulate and use to grow your chosen plants. In designing a garden space, the importance of mapping sun exposure cannot be understated.
Many gardeners are already familiar with the path sunlight takes across their property, but for those who are not, there are myriad resources to use. My personal preference is an app called Sun Seeker. Check it out by clicking the link below:
mapping your space
Creating a basic map of your garden space is going to be your next step in this information-seeking process. In the previous section, we located your property within your county and figured out its general size. Now, we'll go a step further and actually map your garden space. If you have a small space, this can be done on a single page. However, if you have a large property or segmented garden areas, it may be more helpful to create a few maps for the ability to include more detail. If you're familiar with mapping spaces, it may be easy for you to throw a simple garden map together, but for others, it is helpful to use some tools. A good first step is to look up your property on Google Maps. Zoom in on your property so that its borders are just within the visible boundaries of the viewing screen, and take a screenshot (using the Print Screen button on your keyboard). Then, open up Paint, crop your screenshot so that it only shows your property (no search bars or user interface), and save it. This will be your property's general blueprint. If you'd like, you can print this out and put it in your gardening binder. You can also simply just use it to create a sketch of your space, which is our next step.
Using a sheet of graph paper, draw out your space, keeping it as to scale as possible. This can be done by laying your paper on top of your Google Maps property image, sketching the general outlines if your various borders, structures, and hardscaped areas. Include pathways, buildings, fencing, and other structures. Measure out your space as best you can, and record measurements in your sketch. This can be completed either through using Google Earth (it has a measurement function) or by physically going outdoors and measuring with a measuring tape. A few apps exist, as well, for measuring distances and spaces. If you're familiar with these programs, I suggest using them to make this process simpler and more accurate. As a part of this process, make sure to indicate the direction in which areas (or the entire space) are sloped.
Using a sheet of graph paper, draw out your space, keeping it as to scale as possible. This can be done by laying your paper on top of your Google Maps property image, sketching the general outlines if your various borders, structures, and hardscaped areas. Include pathways, buildings, fencing, and other structures. Measure out your space as best you can, and record measurements in your sketch. This can be completed either through using Google Earth (it has a measurement function) or by physically going outdoors and measuring with a measuring tape. A few apps exist, as well, for measuring distances and spaces. If you're familiar with these programs, I suggest using them to make this process simpler and more accurate. As a part of this process, make sure to indicate the direction in which areas (or the entire space) are sloped.
Irrigation
There are many different types of irrigation systems, but here we're referring to a formal, controlled, possibly automatic program used to provide water on a relatively regular basis to your landscape. If you have one of these set up, there will be a control panel attached to either a hose hookup or to an outer wall of your home. Examples of these systems are shown below:
There are many different types of irrigation systems, but here we're referring to a formal, controlled, possibly automatic program used to provide water on a relatively regular basis to your landscape. If you have one of these set up, there will be a control panel attached to either a hose hookup or to an outer wall of your home. Examples of these systems are shown below:
If you have an automatic watering system, this step in the process is going to be a somewhat tedious one if you haven't already been engaging in monitoring and maintaining your system. Materials you'll need to
Slopes and Grades
Plant Identification and Mapping
Now comes the fun part - your existing plants will need to be identified, marked on your garden map, and investigated. Walk around your garden, and take an accounting of the plants you have there. Mark each of them, including their location as well as their size, on your garden map. You'll need a measuring tape for this step. Once you have all of your plants marked, you'll need to then identify them. If you already know where they are,
Now comes the fun part - your existing plants will need to be identified, marked on your garden map, and investigated. Walk around your garden, and take an accounting of the plants you have there. Mark each of them, including their location as well as their size, on your garden map. You'll need a measuring tape for this step. Once you have all of your plants marked, you'll need to then identify them. If you already know where they are,
The Nitty Gritty
To hire someone or to not hire someone?
To hire someone or to not hire someone?
Garden calendar
A season is defined as a period of time during the year distinguished by telltale climate conditions. There are four commonly recognized seasons: spring, summer, fall, and winter, and each has its own light, temperature, and weather patterns that repeat on a yearly basis. Here in the Northern Hemisphere (the area of the globe north of the equator), winter generally will begin on December 21st or 22nd. This day marks what we call the Winter Solstice, or the day of the year with the shortest photoperiod. Spring, a season with warming temperatures during the daytime hours, follows winter. The Spring (or Vernal) Equinox marks the day when day and night are equal in length, and falls around March 20th or 21st. Summertime is a season of warm temperatures and long days, the longest of which is on the Summer Solstice (June 20th or 21st). Fall follows summer, and brings cooler temperatures and shorter days. At the Autumnal Equinox on September 22nd or 23rd, the hours of light and darkness during a 24-hour period are equal. With these yearly fluctuations in light, temperature, and rainfall comes changes in plant responses to their environment. As you spend time in your garden, you'll be able to notice signs that will tell you that plants are entering the next stage of their yearly life cycle.
Because gardens change and grow so much in the course of a year, it is important to have a designated calendar to follow that is tailored to your unique plants and garden climate. In the outline below, you'll find climate information for the various seasons as well as checklists of garden tasks, planning activities, and maintenance tips. To this list, you will add your own tweaks and best practices, and through recording and researching the various systems at work in your space, you'll create a comprehensive care plan.
Because gardens change and grow so much in the course of a year, it is important to have a designated calendar to follow that is tailored to your unique plants and garden climate. In the outline below, you'll find climate information for the various seasons as well as checklists of garden tasks, planning activities, and maintenance tips. To this list, you will add your own tweaks and best practices, and through recording and researching the various systems at work in your space, you'll create a comprehensive care plan.
fall
In fall, you'll notice temperatures dropping, and will probably need to wear warmer clothing when spending time in your garden. This is also the time of the year when trees will start to turn colors and begin to lose their leaves. Many garden plants are slowing down in their growth, and have discontinued flowering. Fall is also marks the end of the main harvesting season, and is a great time to begin making preserves, soups, and sauces. You may be asking yourself at this time why this calendar is beginning in fall instead of winter, as many calendars do; or in spring, when gardens seem to come to life each year. The reason for this shift is because it is important to remove gardening from the rigid systems that we use to organize most of our lives, and see them as living organisms with variable schedules.
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Fall also happens to be an important season, botanically speaking. Learning to care for a garden when it is entering dormancy is important for a few reasons. While your plants are going dormant, focus is shifted to caring for the foundation of the garden: your soil. Without this fundamental piece in place, your garden will struggle to thrive no matter the season. There is also a lot of work that needs to be done as far as cleanup, plant protection, and planning go. Although the garden seems like it is slowing down, this time of the year is actually a great time to get a lot done.
September
- Planting
- Plant bulbs for springtime.
- Plant garlic cloves, 2 inches deep and 3-to-6 inches apart.
- There is still time to plant cool-season vegetables. See a list of good candidates in August.
- Plant colorful fall flowers: Pansies, Violas, Mums, Stock, Snapdragons, Iceland Poppies and Cyclamen.
- plant onions from seeds
- Set out cool-season annuals (pansies, primrose, stock, etc.). Wait until next month if you live in a warmer area.
- As summer crops are removed, cover crops (also called green manure or compost crops) can be planted.
- Plant trees, bulbs, shrubs and perennials. Cooler weather and more rain make autumn a great time to install new plants. Roots will grow slowly enough to establish the plants before winter and give them a head start in springtime. Certain species cannot be planted in the fall, including magnolias and ornamental pear trees, because they tend to root slowly and may not survive winter temperatures.
- Start a fall garden. Chrysanthemums, impatiens, and pansies are old favorites for fall flowers.
- Plant fall vegetables, like spinach, turnips, collard greens, mustard, radish, lettuce, broccoli, and cauliflower
- Maintenance
- Deadhead as necessary, and prune any dead, damaged, or diseased plant matter
- Fertilize azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons with fertilizer for acid-loving plants.
- As fruit grows on second-year growth, cut back fruited canes of raspberries, leaving new canes for fruiting next year.
- Continue harvesting, feed that compost pile as summer crops are removed (unless crops are diseased).
- Dig up tender bulbs, such as caladiums and dahlias, and store them for the winter. They can be planted again in the springtime after the danger of frost has passed.
- Test your soil. Most labs are not as busy during the fall months. Results are returned faster and soil amendments, except for nitrogen, will have time to settle over the winter months.
- Leave plant stalks with seeds or berries that feed birds through the winter. These plants include purple coneflowers black-eyed Susans, and sunflowers. Also clean up bird feeders and get them ready for use.
- Divide plants that require dividing Some varieties include yarrow, iris, coneflower, brunnera, hosta, dianthus, lamium, daylilies, primrose, and geraniums. Divide plants on a cool, cloudy day and replant immediately. Each dividion needs at least ne bud and some roots. Not all perennials should be divided in the fall.
- Apply a topdressing or mulch. Organic material is measured in inches added to the surface. Every year, organic matter should be added to your yard. The minimum amount is around one inch, but 2-3 inches is more desirable. If you add 6 inches, you are doing a great job in maximizing your ability to improve your soil. After the organic material is added to the top of the soil, it needs to be dug in and mixed with the existing soil. To calculate how many cubic feet you'll need for your garden, first measure the area(s) you will be adding the organic material to to find your square footage. Then, multiply the square footage by the number of feet of organic material you'll be adding, which will be a decimal because you'll only be adding a few inches.
- Cleanup
- As you pull up veggie plants that are no longer producing, compost only those that show no sign of disease.
- Clean tools, store those that will not be used in the coming fall and winter months.
- Add fallen leaves to the compost pile. They can also be shredded or broken up, raked, and put as a mulch on flower beds.
- Clean up any diseased foliage from perennials and bushes. Do not put the plant material it the compost pile, as it may not get hot enough to kill the pathogens.
- Clean and store any garden tools that will not be used over the winter
October
- Planting
- Plant bulbs now for spring blooms.
- Fall is a great time to plant natives. Check the UC Davis Arboretum website for ideas.
- Plant garlic and shallots now for a summer harvest.
- Add soil amendments and/or plant winter cover crops such as fava beans to replace nitrogen in the soil.
- Cold crops, lettuce, green onions, potatoes, peas, etc. can still be planted at this time, but will probably not set fruit until the spring.
- Ditto for cool-season annuals unless already blooming (try 4-inch pots).
- Spring bulbs (daffodils, hyacinths, grape hyacinths, etc.) can be planted this month and next. Tulips must first be chilled before planting.
- Plant garlic and shallots after October 15 to harvest next summer.
- Plant cover crops (also called green manure or compost crops) such as fava beans
- plant shrubs and trees.
- Fall is a great planting time for perennials and California Natives in our climate.
- Start a fall garden. Chrysanthemums, impatiens, and pansies are old favorites for fall flowers.
- Plant fall vegetables, like spinach, turnips, collard greens, mustard, radish, lettuce, broccoli, and cauliflower.
- Maintenance
- Feed hydrangeas with acidifier for bluer blooms. Feed with agricultural lime to turn them pink.
- The summer harvest continues but the end is in sight.
- Continue to care for cool-season vegetables and flowers planted in September.
- Cut back and divide leggy perennials
- As plants slow down, stop fertilizing
- irrigation changes; consider turning it off depending on how much rain you're getting
- Leave plant stalks with seeds or berries that feed birds through the winter. These plants include purple coneflowers black-eyed Susans, and sunflowers. Also clean up bird feeders and get them ready for use.
- Test your soil. Most labs are not as busy during the fall months. Results are returned faster and soil amendments, except for nitrogen, will have time to settle over the winter months.Add fallen leaves to the compost pile. They can also be shredded or broken up, raked, and put as a mulch on flower beds.
- Divide plants that require dividing Some varieties include yarrow, iris, coneflower, brunnera, hosta, dianthus, lamium, daylilies, primrose, and geraniums. Divide plants on a cool, cloudy day and replant immediately. Each dividion needs at least ne bud and some roots. Not all perennials should be divided in the fall
- Cleanup
- Prepare planting beds for winter: clear out weeds and rocks.
- Add fallen leaves and plant debris to your compost pile. Or, leave them on the ground to serve as a natural mulch for your garden
- clean up all debris; it hides bugs and diseases
- concentrate on composting, make sure temperatures are adequate
- Clean and store any garden tools that will not be used over the winter.
- Clean up any diseased foliage from perennials and bushes. Do not put the plant material it the compost pile, as it may not get hot enough to kill the pathogens
November
- Planting
- There's still time for fall planting of shrubs, trees, and perennials before the winter rains arrive (we hope!) Winter rains will help the new plantings to establish good root systems.
- Cool-season vegetable seedlings can be planted: cabbage, kale, chard, spinach for example. Also, carrots may be seeded now
- Start a fall garden. Chrysanthemums, impatiens, and pansies are old favorites for fall flowers.
- Plant fall vegetables, like spinach, turnips, collard greens, mustard, radish, lettuce, broccoli, and cauliflower.
- Maintenance
- Remove dead or diseased limbs from trees and shrubs.
- Control slugs and snails with an organic, pet/animal- and food-safe slug bait.
- As plants slow down, stop fertilizing. Water if necessary.
- Spray dormant, deciduous fruit trees, roses, and berry bushes with a dormant oil spray.
- Test your soil. Most labs are not as busy during the fall months. Results are returned faster and soil amendments, except for nitrogen, will have time to settle over the winter months.
- Leave plant stalks with seeds or berries that feed birds through the winter. These plants include purple coneflowers black-eyed Susans, and sunflowers. Also clean up bird feeders and get them ready for use.
- Divide plants that require dividing Some varieties include yarrow, iris, coneflower, brunnera, hosta, dianthus, lamium, daylilies, primrose, and geraniums. Divide plants on a cool, cloudy day and replant immediately. Each dividion needs at least ne bud and some roots. Not all perennials should be divided in the fall
- Cleanup
- If you are putting away your garden tools for the winter, first give them a good cleaning. Rub with alcohol after each use to prevent the spread of disease. Prevent rust with a light coating of lubricant grease (such as lithium grease). Shovels and saws may be stored in a bucket of sand with a little oil (5 parts sand to 1 part oil).
- Continue to add plant residues and weeds to your compost. Turn your compost pile to keep it aerated. Cover the pile before heavy rains - you want it to be as wet as a wrung-out sponge.
- Add fallen leaves to the compost pile. They can also be shredded or broken up, raked, and put as a mulch on flower beds.
- Clean and store any garden tools that will not be used over the winter
Winter
The winter months bring a different climate to the garden, one with lots of rainfall and cold temperatures. The months of December, January and February are the months of the year that receive the highest amount of rainfall in the Bay Area. Although it may be chilly outdoors, these months are actually great times to get a lot done in the garden to prepare for the years' main growing season.
December
- Planting
- Take advantage of the rain we get this month. December is still a great time to plant perennials, shrubs and trees to get roots established which will promote lush spring growth.
- Plant some cool-season annuals, like violas, primroses, and pansies.
- Select bare-root roses for a summer rose garden.
- You CAN plant vegetables in winter! See our Year-round Vegetable Planting Schedules for San Mateo and San Francisco Counties for what can be grown now in your area.
- Now is a good time to plant chilled tulip bulbs. Chilled bulbs may grow taller with larger flowers than non-chilled bulbs.
- Sow wildflowers seeds now for instant spring color.
- Start planning your spring garden now!
- Plant onions from seeds (East of the East Bay Hills). Check out Onions 101 for an in-depth look at growing onions. It’s time to plan for your next garden.
- If the seed catalogs have not yet arrived, visit them online
- Maintenance
- indoors, keep holiday greens well watered or mist daily. Keep trees and greens away from hot sunny windows and heat sources. Poinsettias should be kept away from heat sources. If you’re using poinsettias to decorate outdoors, bring them in out of the cold at night.
- Keep an eye out for frost warnings. Be prepared to cover with frost Blanket for protection. Note: remove frost blankets during the daytime hours. Keep plants watered during this time.
- Feed the birds: keep those feeders full.
- Continue watching everything planted. Keep weeds under control.
- Pull any weeds you see popping up in response to recent rains.
- Spray dormant, deciduous fruit trees, roses, and berry bushes with a dormant oil spray.
- If you have had a frost, take care NOT to prune back dead branches. Read more here on dealing with frost, both before and after
- Cleanup
- Clean up the garden – remove excessive leaf litter, etc. – to avoid over-wintering diseases.
January
- Start planning your summer garden.
- Buy seeds.
- Plan your summer garden. For vegetable variety recommendations for areas near costal California, consider the recommendations from our test garden. Another useful resource for gardeners whose plots are influenced by the San Francisco Bay's maritime weather is Plant Recommendations West of the East Bay Hills
- Planting
- Plant dormant fruit trees and roses.Top dress tender plants with mulch mix.
- Start artichoke, asparagus, and rhubarb.
- Plant bare root fruit and shade trees, roses, shrubs and vines. For information of fruit tree varieties, check out UC Davis’ Home Orchard site.
- Plant bare-root artichokes, asparagus, blackberries, grapes, raspberries, rhubarb, and strawberries.
- Start seeds (indoors) of cool-season leafy vegetables (lettuce, Swiss chard, spinach, etc), Brassica family crops (broccoli, spring cabbage, cauliflower, etc.), and leeks
- Maintenance
- Pull any weeds you see popping up in response to recent rains.
- Keep the garden clean by cutting back overgrown perennials, including roses and shrubs. Remove plants that haven't been doing well and that won't make it through the winter months.
- Protect plants from frosty nights by covering them with frost cloth.
- Keep indoor houseplants watered. Using a heater for your space will dry out your plants more quickly.
- Keep your bird feeders filled to keep your birds fed over the winter months.
- Prune dormant deciduous plants such as flowering vines, fruit and shade trees, grapes, roses and hydrangeas
- Prune salvias, penstemons, butterfly bush, California fuchsia and other summer-blooming perennial shrubs.
- Cleanup
February
- Shop for citrus trees.
- Planting
- Plant potatoes, onion, garlic, rhubarb, and asparagus.
- If starting tomatoes from seed, start them now.
- Start seeds (indoors) of warm-season crops requiring 4 - 8 weeks of growth before setting out. These include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and basil. Learn how to start seeds here.
- Maintenance
- Prune roses, trees, and shrubs. Clean tools after pruning.
- Prune and cut back perennials and ornamental grasses.
- Prune lavender back to emerging new growth for best spike production this coming summertime.
- Divide divisible perennials like yarrow and daylily. Re-plant them in bare spots around your garden.
- Prune Fuchsias.
- Consider whether your fruit trees need a dormant oil spray if you have had problems in the previous growing season. The UC Davis Home Orchard site can help.
- Cleanup
- Clean up winter debris from beds and containers.
spring
Let your garden sleep in! Wait to tidy up your space until we have a week long of temperatures in the 50's or above. This year's pollinators are not ready to wake up until then, and they are sleeping in your plant stems and fallen leaves.
March
Shop for rhodies and azaleas.
Shop for rhodies and azaleas.
- Planting
- Plant vegetable starts.
- Check nurseries for blooming or budding annuals for springtime planting.
- Plant gladiolus and dahlias for summer color.
- Consider planting companion crops that will increase biodiversity in your garden. These plants include cosmos, marigold, nasturtiums, sunflowers, and zinnias to attract bees.
- Plant root crops in the garden (carrots, beets, turnips, radishes, potatoes, etc.).
- Plant peas.
- Start seeds (indoors) of warm-season crops requiring less than 4 weeks of growth before setting out. These include cucumbers and squash.
- Set out cool-season crops and cool-season flowers (pansies, nemesia, primrose, etc.).
- Maintenance
- Feed your garden with an all-purpose organic fertilizer.
- Prepare planting beds for springtime. Turn soil and add at least 4 inches of compost. Test your soil for pH, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and correct any imbalances with fertikizer.
- Feed citrus trees with a granulated citrus fertilizer.
- If you must water, do so early in the morning to prevent wet foliage at night. Wet foliage attracts snails and fungal diseases.
- Prepare the soil by digging in cover crops and incorporating “hot” manures (this can be done earlier).
- Do a test run on the irrigation system and complete needed repairs.
- Cleanup
- if fava beans were planted as a cover crop, pull them out of the ground at the point when about half of their flowers have opened.
April
- Planting
- Plant edibles like lettuce, tomatoes, herbs, zucchini and berries. Sow bean, corn, cucumber, melon, and winter squash seeds directly into the ground. Consider a soaker hose to conserve water in your vegetable garden.
- Transplant tomato seedlings: Pinch off all but the top two pairs of leaves and set the seedling into a deep hole. Backfill, keeping the top leaves above soil.
- Start planting summer annuals like lobelia, begonia, marigolds, cosmos, petunias, snapdragon and alyssum.
- Plant gladiolus, dahlias & lilies for summer blooms.
- Continue to plant root crops in the garden (beets, turnips, carrots, radishes, potatoes, etc.).
- Set out plants or seed directly summer annuals (cosmos, marigold, sunflower, petunia, etc.).
- Some cool-season crops can still be planted in early April (chard, leek, green onion, lettuce, other salad greens).
- Summer crops can possibly be planted in late April if it’s warm enough. Start cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, and melons indoors in peat or newspaper pots.
- Plant summer bulbs (callas, cannas, dahlias, gladiolas, etc.).
- Maintenance
- Prune back herbaceous perennials (example: salvia), to promote plant bushiness.
- Work your cover crops into the soil before they seed.
- Don’t use insecticides in your garden – you may be harming bees and beneficial insects that actually help control aphids, mites, whiteflies, and other garden pests.
- Remove aphids from plants with a strong stream of water.
- Handpick snails and slugs, or use non-toxic slug bait.
- Fertilize and water as needed.
- Manage any pests who have appeared with help from UC Pest Notes.
- Cleanup
May
- Planting
- Plant late summer edibles such as pumpkins, squash, sunflowers, peppers, basil and melons.
- All summer vegetables can be planted (beans, corn, squash, tomatoes, peppers, melons, etc.).
- Continue planting summer bulbs
- Maintenance
- Prune spring-flowering shrubs after bloom is past
- Release ladybugs and other beneficial insects to help control aphids, mites, whiteflies, and other garden pests.
- Let self-seeding annuals go to seed instead of deadheading. New seedlings will appear for another crop of summer flowers.
- Keep your strawberry crop clean by spreading bark mulch around the plants, lifting the flowers and leaves above the mulch. This will also reduce watering needs and cut down on weeds.
- Harvest radishes when the crown begins to show above the soil. Avoid “split” radishes by going easy on the watering.
- If you've planted new potatoes, dig them as soon as the plants begin to bloom. Start by gently bringing up the soil with a pitchfork about a foot away from the plant; separate out the tubers by hand.
- Read how to improve your garden soil with organic matter.
- Learn about beneficial insects – the ones you should encourage to stay in your garden (and why).
- Thin fruit on fruit trees as needed (use the width of your closed fist as a rough guide). For more information, read up on thinning here.
- Check to be sure that your irrigation system is working and meets the needs of your garden with the calculator for estimating water needs.
- Cleanup
summer
June
- Planting
- Dahlia, echinacea, rudbeckia hirta
- helenium autumnale
- helianthus. salvia, heliotrope, phlox, scabiosa, nicotiniana, lomandra
- pinnisetum, festuca, miscanthus sinensis, stipa gigantean, carex comens, sedum, penstemon, ceratostigma plumbaginoites,
- annuals to plant during this time are: zinnia, ageratum, petunia, cerinthe, cosmos, amaranthus, snapdragons, delphinium, foxglove, phlox
- This is a good time to plant beans, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, pumpkins (start now for Halloween), summer squash, and tomatoes. These warm-season plants need lots of irrigation: take this into consideration and plant only as many as you need and can water consistently all summer.
- Replace harvested cool-season crops with warm-season crops
- Maintenance
- Check the irrigation system: Turn on the irrigation system and inspect sprinklers to see if they're working properly. Replace any broken heads; clean out clogged ones. To readjust a head that is misaligned, rotate the head until it sprays in the right direction.
- Feed tomato plants with a low-nitrogen fertilizer when the fruit starts to develop; too much nitrogen encourages more foliage and less fruit. Mulch the tomato plants to conserve moisture.
- The California Garden Web has valuable information about dealing with pests and problems on roses.
- Fertilize, water, and deadhead flowers to keep them blooming.
- Check your plants for insects and disease. Get help from UC Pest Notes.
- Harvest and enjoy!
- Check to be sure that your irrigation system is working and meets the needs of your garden with the calculator for estimating water needs.
- Cleanup
July
- Planting
- Grow herb seedlings in well-draining soil in a location getting 4-to-6 hours of sun.
- Some summer crops can still be planted—early corn, beans, summer squash.
- Maintenance
- for tomato plants that produce large slicing tomatoes, thinning fruit will encourage plants to produce larger tomatoes. This will also reduce the weight on fragile branches.
- Water mature trees deeply during this drought.
- To get the most blooms on dahlias, cut back the center stems; this will encourage more lateral branches.
- Garlic is ready to harvest when leaves begin to turn yellow and die back. Shake off the dirt and store them in a cool, dry place. When the bulbs are dry (3 to 4 weeks), clean with a soft brush, cut off the stems and roots, and store in a cool dark place.
- Cactus and succulents are drought tolerant, but many appreciate some water in very hot weather. Also, succulents may find full sun to be too strong in some locations, so provide them with some shade if they appear to be struggling.
- Mulch garden and vegetable beds to protect them from summer heat, reduce watering needs, and keep the weeds down.
- Got whiteflies? Control them with sticky traps, increase air circulation by thinning out dense branches and/or foliage, and use earth worm castings to discourage them.
- "Deadheading" faded flowers encourages new blooms.
- Continue to fertilize, water, harvest, and deadhead flowers to keep them blooming.
- Check often for pests, disease, and weeds.
- Check to be sure that your irrigation system is working and meets the needs of your garden with the calculator for estimating water needs.
- Cleanup
August
Plan your vegetable garden for crop rotation to avoid re-planting the same types of plants in the same area two seasons in a row.
Plan your vegetable garden for crop rotation to avoid re-planting the same types of plants in the same area two seasons in a row.
- Planting
- Begin sowing seeds for cool-season crops, such as beets, turnips, cabbage, radishes, broccoli, peas, kale, collard, spinach, arugula, and lettuces.
- Begin planting cool crops for fall and winter harvest. Cole crops (broccoli, mustard, cabbage, etc.), beets, carrots, lettuce (provide shade), green onions, potatoes, peas, etc. Wait until September in hotter climates.
- Start seeds of cool-season annuals (calendula, stock, etc.).
- Maintenance
- Maintain drip irrigation for most effective water use: check for leaks or missing/broken emitters.
- Water container-grown citrus trees once a week, or more often if the weather turns hot.
- Remove runners from strawberries to promote buds for next year, and to have a stronger mother plant.
- Prune fruit trees to control height, maintain shape and eliminate suckers.
- Fertilize, water, deadhead, etc.
- Check to be sure that your irrigation system is working and meets the needs of your garden with the calculator for estimating water needs.
- Cleanup