Abelia
( Ab - BEEL - ee- uh )
At-A-Glance Information
Abelia shrubs can be evergreen, semi-evergreen, or deciduous, depending on the species. These shrubs thrive in sunshine, but can tolerate some shade. They need regular water, and their flowers will attract pollinators like birds and butterflies to your garden. This shrub has graceful, arching branches, and flowers appear in summer and early fall. When the blooms drop, purple or copper-colored sepals remain, and last throughout the fall season, which is a time when the leaves can turn a bronze or red color. The most popularly grown species is Abelia grandiflora, which has many varietals to choose from.
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Abelia Species and Varietals
Named for Clarke Abel, the genus Abelia is in the Honeysuckle family (Caprifoliaceae), and there are about 30 species and countless hybrids. The best growing zones for Abelia depend on the species. See the descriptions below for more information. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
Abelia chinensis (Chinese Abelia) This species is deciduous to semi-evergreen depending on where it is grown, and grows well in zones 4-24. It is a Chinese native, hence 'chinensis', and can grow to reach between 4-5 feet tall and wide when mature. Flowers are white with a pink tint, and fragrant. Foliage is green. |
Abelia floribunda (Vesalea floribunda floribunda) (Mexican Abelia) It is evergreen, and grows well in zones 9 and 12-24 and is native to Mexico. This shrub suffers some cold-weather damage in zones 7 and 8. Severe damage occurs at 20 degrees Fahrenheit. This shrub grows 3-6 feet tall and wide, but can get much larger and grow to 10 feet tall and 12 feet wide when fully mature. Flowers are bright red/purple and can hang singly or in clusters. It blooms in summer, and sporadically through the rest of the year. In hot climates, plant this shrub in a partially shady area. |
Abelia x grandiflora (Glossy Abelia)
This evergreen to semi-evergreen species is the most popular of the Abelia shrubs, and can vary in width and height depending on the varietal, with an average of 8 feet tall and 5 feet wide. In cold weather (15 degrees Fahrenheit or lower), they will lose their leaves, and they will die back to the ground at 0 degrees Fahrenheit. This shrub recovers well, however, and can rebound and bloom within the same year. Check out the varieties below:
This evergreen to semi-evergreen species is the most popular of the Abelia shrubs, and can vary in width and height depending on the varietal, with an average of 8 feet tall and 5 feet wide. In cold weather (15 degrees Fahrenheit or lower), they will lose their leaves, and they will die back to the ground at 0 degrees Fahrenheit. This shrub recovers well, however, and can rebound and bloom within the same year. Check out the varieties below:
'Bronze Anniversary'
This variety grows to be 3-4 feet tall and wide. New growth is a bronzy/orange color, but the leaves mature to be a bright, lime green. The flowers are white. |
'Confetti'
Dense variety, to 2-3 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide. This shrub has variegated leaves which turn a maroon color in cold weather. White flowers. |
'Francis Mason'
This is a compact shrub that gets to about 3-4 feet tall and wide. It is densely branched. Variegated leaves. Flowers are pink. |
'Golden Anniversary'
This is a low-growing shrub which gets to about 2 feet tall and 4 feet wide. The leaves are splashed with a creamy yellow color, which contrast nicely with its red stems. Flowers are white. |
'Kaleidoscope'
This varietal is compact, to 2-3 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide. Stems are bright red, and leaves are variegated yellow but turn orange and red in the fall. Flowers are white. |
'Little Richard'
This shrub is dense and compact, getting to about 2-3 feet tall and wide. Leaves are dark green and shiny, and hold on for a long time in winter, even in colder climates. Flowers are white. |
'Mardi Gras'
This varietal grows to 2-3 feet high and 4-5 feet wide. Leaves are splashed with pink and cream and flowers are white. |
'Prostrate White' ('Prostrata')
This shrub is much lower than other varietals, growing to only 1.5-2 feet tall. It can spread to be 4-5 feet wide. Useful as a groundcover. White blooms. |
'Sherwoodii'
This varietal is dense and compact, growing to about 3-4 feet tall and 5 feet wide. Flowers are pale lavender/pink. |
'Silver Anniversary'
This shrub is shorter than other varietals, growing to about 2-2.5 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide. Leaves have a silvery tinge with cream edges. Flowers are white. |
'Sunrise'
This variety can grow to 3-5 feet tall, and a bit wider. It is densely branched and has glossy green leaves that are edged with yellow. In the fall, foliage will turn orange and red. Flowers are white. |
'White Marvel'
This varietal grows to be 5 feet tall and wide, and has white to yellow-colored new growth. Mature leaves are green with creamy to golden-yellow edges. Flowers are white. |
caring for and pruning abelia shrubs
The first step in caring for Abelia, as with any plant, is choosing the correct placement in your yard! Abelias can be used as a hedge, groundcover, or a centerpiece shrub. The spot you choose to plant your Abelia should get full to partial sun (the amount of sun the shrub gets on a regular basis will correspond with the amount of showy blooms). Abelias can grow in a variety of soil types, but respond best to soil amended with organic material that drains well, and that is slightly acidic to neutral. Abelia shrubs can also be grown as potted plants.
Compact shrubs, like the varietals 'Prostrate White' and 'Sherwoodii' require less care and pruning than the larger Abelias. General pruning of Abelia shrubs should be done in late winter or early spring. Avoid pruning after new growth and blooms have begun to push out, as this shrub flowers on the previous years' wood. As with many other plants, it is always good practice to prune of dead or damaged foliage whenever you see it. Clip the dead stems at ground level if the entire stem is dead or damaged. If this is not the case and only part of a stem is affected, prune below the damaged part of the stem, making sure to snip just above a lateral branch or bud.
Abelias should be left alone for the first two years after planting so they can come in to their own shape and size. In the third year, choose the three largest interior stems of the shrub and make a cut just above the ground level. After this is done, continue pruning stems in a natural-looking pattern until about a third of the plant has been removed. If possible, make these cuts on the interior of the plant so that the cuts are not visible. If you have an Abelia shrub in your yard that you are considering removing due to its shape or poor health, consider a major renovation of the shrub. To do this, cut all stems down to ground level in late winter before new growth has sprouted. The shrub will regain its normal height within a couple of years, and then general maintenance pruning can commence.
Compact shrubs, like the varietals 'Prostrate White' and 'Sherwoodii' require less care and pruning than the larger Abelias. General pruning of Abelia shrubs should be done in late winter or early spring. Avoid pruning after new growth and blooms have begun to push out, as this shrub flowers on the previous years' wood. As with many other plants, it is always good practice to prune of dead or damaged foliage whenever you see it. Clip the dead stems at ground level if the entire stem is dead or damaged. If this is not the case and only part of a stem is affected, prune below the damaged part of the stem, making sure to snip just above a lateral branch or bud.
Abelias should be left alone for the first two years after planting so they can come in to their own shape and size. In the third year, choose the three largest interior stems of the shrub and make a cut just above the ground level. After this is done, continue pruning stems in a natural-looking pattern until about a third of the plant has been removed. If possible, make these cuts on the interior of the plant so that the cuts are not visible. If you have an Abelia shrub in your yard that you are considering removing due to its shape or poor health, consider a major renovation of the shrub. To do this, cut all stems down to ground level in late winter before new growth has sprouted. The shrub will regain its normal height within a couple of years, and then general maintenance pruning can commence.
Propagation
Abelias can be easily propagated through stem cuttings taken in late summer or early fall. Cuttings should be taken from healthy plants to increase the chances of success. It is best to take a cutting in the morning, as the plant will hold water more effectively during this time, and it is important to take the cutting from the upper part of the plant. Choose a stem free of flowers or buds, and make a cut 4-5 inches down. Remove the bottom leaves from the cutting. Treat the bottom with a rooting hormone and fill a container with either sand, a mixture of sand and perlite, or a mixture of peat and perlite.
Place your container with growing material and your cutting in a shady place with high humidity. A greenhouse is ideal, but you can also use a ziploc bag placed gently over the top of the plant. If you use the plastic bag method, make sure that the bag does not touch the plant by putting a stick that is a few inches taller than your clipping into the growing medium before placing the bag on top. This will keep a nice space between the top of your clipping and the plastic bag. Mist the cutting every other day with a water spray bottle. Roots will begin to form in four to six weeks.
After roots have formed, transplant the young plant into at least a one-gallon container filled with well-draining soil amended with organic material. Adding slow-release fertilizer and dolomitic limestone to the surface of the soil in this container will encourage further growth. Let it continue to grow in a safe place until springtime. This will give the plant time to mature before being exposed to the elements! When you are ready to plant your new abelia shrub, follow the directions in the above section.
Place your container with growing material and your cutting in a shady place with high humidity. A greenhouse is ideal, but you can also use a ziploc bag placed gently over the top of the plant. If you use the plastic bag method, make sure that the bag does not touch the plant by putting a stick that is a few inches taller than your clipping into the growing medium before placing the bag on top. This will keep a nice space between the top of your clipping and the plastic bag. Mist the cutting every other day with a water spray bottle. Roots will begin to form in four to six weeks.
After roots have formed, transplant the young plant into at least a one-gallon container filled with well-draining soil amended with organic material. Adding slow-release fertilizer and dolomitic limestone to the surface of the soil in this container will encourage further growth. Let it continue to grow in a safe place until springtime. This will give the plant time to mature before being exposed to the elements! When you are ready to plant your new abelia shrub, follow the directions in the above section.
Problems and pests
Abelias are easy to grow and care for, and therefore have very few problems. They can get some die-back on new growth if planted in areas that are too exposed. These shrubs can also become lightly infested with aphids in early summer, but this is not a problem that is specific to the Abelia. If you are growing Abelia in a container, be on the lookout for vine weevil beetles, but again this is not a problem specific to the Abelia and can affect a large range of container plants. For information on how to prevent and eradicate these pests, see the links below.
Gallery
videos
A great video about Abelia grandiflora 'Edward Goucher'
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All about planting and pruning Abelias
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How to prune Abelia shrubs
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 124, Abelia
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