Actinidia
( ak - tin - NID - ee - uh )
At-A-Glance InformationActinidia, commonly called Kiwi Vine or Chinese Gooseberry, is a deciduous vine grown for both its fruit and foliage. These plants can take full sun or partial shade and moderate to regular water. Actinidia is native to temperate areas of eastern Asia. Use these vining plants to grow on pergolas or trellises, to provide shade, as interesting foliage plants, as specimens in the garden, or simply for their delicious fruits.
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Actinidia Species and Varietals
The genus Actinidia is the type species member of the plant family Actinidiaceae, and has between 40 and 60 species. Actinidia species can be fruiting or non-fruiting. The non-fruiting, male varieties usually have the most impressive foliage, while female varieties have great-tasting fruit that has a range of size and color. Keep in mind that female varieties usually need a male nearby to successfully pollinate and produce fruit. The best growing zones for Actinidia vary depending on the species; for more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
Actinidia arguta (Darae, Hardy Kiwi, Arctic Kiwi, Baby Kiwi, Cocktail Kiwi, Dessert Kiwi, Grape Kiwi, Hardy Kiwifruit, Kiwi Berry, Northern Kiwi, Siberian Gooseberry, Siberian Kiwi)
This species is native to Japan, Korea, northern China, and Russia, and produces hairless fruits that can be eaten whole. 'Geneva', MSU', 'Weiki', 'Jumbo Verde', Young leaves can also be eaten. Grows best in zones A1-A3, 1-10, 12, and 14-24.
This species is native to Japan, Korea, northern China, and Russia, and produces hairless fruits that can be eaten whole. 'Geneva', MSU', 'Weiki', 'Jumbo Verde', Young leaves can also be eaten. Grows best in zones A1-A3, 1-10, 12, and 14-24.
Actinidia chinensis (Golden Kiwifruit) This species is closely related to Actinidia deliciosa (though fruit is sweeter and more aromatic), and fruit color can vary from lime green to gold. Fruits are about the size of a chicken egg. Variety 'EnzaRed' has a red iris, or ring, around the center of the interior of the fruit. Other commercially grown varieties include 'Hort16A' (ZespriGold, SunGold), and 'Zesy002'. |
Actinidia deliciosa (Fuzzy Kiwifruit, Chinese Gooseberry Vine)
Grows best in zones 4-9 and 12-24 and native to southern China. This plant can take about five years to begin flowering after being planted and can reach 30 feet in length at maturity. Leaves are dark green on top, velvety white underneath. New leaves often have red fuzz. White-cream flowers bloom in spring followed by brown-skinned, green-fleshed fruit about the size and shape of an egg. Male pollinators and female fruiting varieties are outlined below.
Grows best in zones 4-9 and 12-24 and native to southern China. This plant can take about five years to begin flowering after being planted and can reach 30 feet in length at maturity. Leaves are dark green on top, velvety white underneath. New leaves often have red fuzz. White-cream flowers bloom in spring followed by brown-skinned, green-fleshed fruit about the size and shape of an egg. Male pollinators and female fruiting varieties are outlined below.
Actinidia kolomikta (Actinidia maloides) (Arctic Beauty, Kolomikta, Variegated-Leaf Hardy Kiwi, Super-Hardy Kiwi, Miyamatatabi) Native to eastern Asia, this vine grows rapidly to 15 feet or more, and has heart-shaped profuse foliage. Leaves on the plant can be green, white, or green variegated with white, pink or red. Leaf colors are better in shade or cooler weather. Non-fruiting males have the best foliage, fruiting females produce small green fruits. The best female variety is 'September Sun', as it is the best combination of foliage and fruit in this species. Zones A1-A3, 1-9 and 14-17. These plants can also be grown indoors as houseplants. |
Actinidia pilosula This species is native to China, where its fruit is also commonly eaten. Young foliage commonly has white tips and dark red margins appear on all leaves. Flowers bloom May through June, and these vines reach just under 25 feet long. Most specimens of this species are found in the wild. |
Actinidia polygama (Silver Vine, Matatabi, Cat Powder) This vine is native to mountainous areas in Japan, China and Korea. Leaves are green, with silver-white tips when young. Cats love this vine; they chew the leaves and roll around in them, which can cause damage to the plant. Non-fruiting. Zones A1-A3, 1-9 and 14-17. |
Actinidia tetramera These vines are native to central China and are vigorous climbers that can reach 26 feet tall at maturity. This species is valued for its ornamental value, and prefers to be planted in partial shade to sun. Actinidia tetramera maloides has earned the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit. |
Caring for Actinidia
The best time of the year to plant these vining beauties is in springtime, after all danger of frost has passed. Although plants will produce beautiful foliage in their first year, it can take between 2 and 3 years' time for a transplanted Kiwi vine to produce good fruit harvests. Plant Kiwi vines in full sun exposure; between 6 and 8 hours per day is best, though sun exposure needs vary somewhat depending on the species. Check individual species' planting information before choosing a spot in the garden. Most of these plants will need some support or structure to grow well. They prefer soil that is well-draining and fertile, with a pH of between 5.5 and 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral), and appreciate a lot of organic matter. If local soil is poor or has bad structure, make sure to amend the planting site with plenty of organic matter and/or compost before installing. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plant after installation, ensuring that mulch stays at least a few inches away from the stems. This will increase soil moisture retention, suppress weed growth, and maintain a constant soil temperature.
These plants prefer a good amount of water, especially during the growing, flowering and fruiting seasons. Keep soil around new plantings continuously moist until the root system has established. These plants require about an inch of rainfall every 10 days, especially when they are newly planted. Weekly waterings are recommended for mature plants; deep waterings or drip irrigation systems are typically used for these plants. Most kiwi vines are tropical in origin, and require high humidity and temperatures to survive. Hardy kiwi vines can tolerate temperatures as low as -25 degrees Fahrenheit and still re-grow in the following year. For non-hardy types, make sure to either move them indoors or into a greenhouse during the cooler months of the year, or cover them with burlap or frost cloth to help protect them. Provide these vines with at least yearly feedings. A thick application of organic compost does the trick each spring. Pruning these vines is pretty simple; in late winter or early springtime, choose a vigorous, straight shoot and cut back all other shoots to encourage vigor in the trunk. Prune as needed during the growing season to remove excessively long shoots or overgrown sections. In late fall or early wintertime when the plant is dormant, cut back stems, leaving only 8-10 nodes on each one.
Harvesting and Storing Kiwi Fruits
In order for Kiwi vines to produce fruits, there needs to be a male and female plant in close proximity to one another to encourage pollination. There is also the option of purchasing a self-fruiting variety to avoid this requirement. Kiwi fruits are typically ready to be harvested in October to November. They are ready to be picked from the vine when they are still firm, but are starting to give a little when gently squeezed. They will continue to ripen once they are off the vine. Ripe fruits can be refrigerated until ready for use, and typically last between 5 and 10 days. Fruits that are harvested a bit before they are ripe can last up to a month in the refrigerator.
These plants prefer a good amount of water, especially during the growing, flowering and fruiting seasons. Keep soil around new plantings continuously moist until the root system has established. These plants require about an inch of rainfall every 10 days, especially when they are newly planted. Weekly waterings are recommended for mature plants; deep waterings or drip irrigation systems are typically used for these plants. Most kiwi vines are tropical in origin, and require high humidity and temperatures to survive. Hardy kiwi vines can tolerate temperatures as low as -25 degrees Fahrenheit and still re-grow in the following year. For non-hardy types, make sure to either move them indoors or into a greenhouse during the cooler months of the year, or cover them with burlap or frost cloth to help protect them. Provide these vines with at least yearly feedings. A thick application of organic compost does the trick each spring. Pruning these vines is pretty simple; in late winter or early springtime, choose a vigorous, straight shoot and cut back all other shoots to encourage vigor in the trunk. Prune as needed during the growing season to remove excessively long shoots or overgrown sections. In late fall or early wintertime when the plant is dormant, cut back stems, leaving only 8-10 nodes on each one.
Harvesting and Storing Kiwi Fruits
In order for Kiwi vines to produce fruits, there needs to be a male and female plant in close proximity to one another to encourage pollination. There is also the option of purchasing a self-fruiting variety to avoid this requirement. Kiwi fruits are typically ready to be harvested in October to November. They are ready to be picked from the vine when they are still firm, but are starting to give a little when gently squeezed. They will continue to ripen once they are off the vine. Ripe fruits can be refrigerated until ready for use, and typically last between 5 and 10 days. Fruits that are harvested a bit before they are ripe can last up to a month in the refrigerator.
Propagation
Actinidia vines can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your vine, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Actinidia by Cutting
Propagating Actinidia by Seed
Propagating Actinidia by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 5-8 inch softwood portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Actinidia by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant, and can produce plants that are either male or female. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. They are located inside of the mature fruits produced by female plants, and are typically located towards the center of the fruit. To remove them, slice open the fruit and scoop them out. Rinse them carefully under water to remove any remaining fruit flesh, and then lay them out to dry for about two days' time.
- Place the dried seeds in a plastic bag or other sealable container filled with moistened peat moss or sand. Then, place the container in the refrigerator and leave it to chill for four months. Mist as needed to maintain moisture during the stratification period.
- In spring, water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Problems and Pests
Kiwi Vine plants can suffer from the following pests and diseases in home gardens:
- Japanese Beetle
- Leafroller Caterpillars
- Root-Knot Nematode
- Snails and Slugs
- Thrips
- Spider Mites
- Crown and Root Rot
- Fruit Rot
Gallery
Videos
All about growing Hardy Kiwi vines.
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Learn how to grow Kiwi vines.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 134, 392-393, Actinidia
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