Angelonia
( an - jell - LOH - nee - uh )
At-A-Glance InformationThis flowering perennial is often used as an annual. It needs full sun and regular water and is native to Mexico and the West Indies. It is called 'Summer Snapdragon' by some, though it more closely resembles a miniature Delphinium. Small blue, purple, pink or white blossoms bloom on 8-inch tall spikes in summer. Foliage grows to 1.5 feet tall and 1 foot wide. These beauties are great for both beds and containers.
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Angelonia Species and Varietals
The genus Angelonia includes 30 species and is a member of the plant family Plataginaceae. Angelonia grows best in zones 1-24, H1 and H2. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
Caring for Angelonia
Angelonia is considered an easy-care plant that likes to grow in moist, rich soil that is well-draining. These plants prefer a soil pH of between 5.5 and 6.2; amend soil with organic material before planting (especially if local soil is heavy clay). Plant in full sun exposure, and ensure that these flowers get between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day. Although at maturity Angelonia plants are drought-tolerant, they do prefer soil that is kept moist, especially during the active growth and flowering seasons. Feed Angelonia with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during the growing and flowering seasons to promote healthy foliage growth and abundant flowering. Remove spent flower spikes after they have faded, unless you wish to collect seeds for propagation. This will encourage rebloom and maintain a neat appearance.
Pruning includes trimming back leggy or overgrown stems to encourage a bushier growth. These plants can be pruned back by a third towards the end of summer to rejuvenate them for a fresh flush of growth. Angelonia is very tolerant of high temperatures and humidity, but is sensitive to cold temperatures. These flowers are annuals in cold-weather climates and will have to be replaced year after year, or brought inside during the first frost and overwintered as a houseplant in a cool, bright location.
Pruning includes trimming back leggy or overgrown stems to encourage a bushier growth. These plants can be pruned back by a third towards the end of summer to rejuvenate them for a fresh flush of growth. Angelonia is very tolerant of high temperatures and humidity, but is sensitive to cold temperatures. These flowers are annuals in cold-weather climates and will have to be replaced year after year, or brought inside during the first frost and overwintered as a houseplant in a cool, bright location.
Propagation
Angelonia can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your plant, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Angelonia by Cutting
Propagating Angelonia by Seed
Propagating Aconite by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost, gloves and other protective wear (to prevent skin contact) and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in spring or fall (after the plant has entered dormancy and been cut to the ground, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every four to five years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
Propagating Angelonia by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new plant.
Propagating Angelonia by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. The seed pods on Caesalpinia plants are pretty easy to spot, they're large and dangle from the branches, left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will begin to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
- Caesalpinia seeds have a hard coating that protects them, but this coating also makes it a little difficult to get them to germinate. We can help the process along by scarifying them with sandpaper (or simply rubbing them against an abrasive surface). Do this with as many seeds as you can; they will probably not all sow, and the ones that do will be of varying characteristics. The more seeds you plant, the more chances you will have to get the resulting shrub you want. Place your seeds in lukewarm water for six hours. Viable seeds will sink to the bottom, and non-viable seeds will float to the top. You can discard any seeds that float.
- Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Propagating Aconite by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost, gloves and other protective wear (to prevent skin contact) and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in spring or fall (after the plant has entered dormancy and been cut to the ground, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every four to five years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
- Dawn your protective gear and gather your materials. Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the tuber roots. Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
- Start to tease apart the roots with your gloved fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick tuberous section.
- Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divided tubers about an inch under the soil surface and water thoroughly.
Problems and Pests
This plant is very rarely bothered by pests, but can have some issues with the following:
- Aphids
- Spider Mites
- Powdery Mildew
Gallery
Videos
How to plant Agelonia.
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Learn all about Angelonia in this plant chat.
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Summer Snapdragons explained.
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All you need to know about these beautiful flowering plants.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 153, Angelonia angustifolia
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