Dierama
( dye - err - RAHM - uh )
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At-A-Glance InformationDierama, also called Fairy Wand, Hairbells, Angel's Fishing Rod, Wandflower, or Grasklokkies, is a genus of slow-growing herbaceous perennial flowering plants that do best in full sun with regular waterings. They are native to South Africa where they are evergreen, but they will die back to the ground in wintertime with cold temperatures. Dierama plants grow from large underground corms. Leaves are sword-like to grassy, green and about 2 feet long. In spring or summer long stems produce flowers in colors like purple, pink, and white. Blooms are either bell-shaped or funnel-shaped, depending on the species. Dierama do well in gravel and cottage gardens in areas with tall grasses, along pond edges, and in border plantings especially when situated behind lower-growing plants.
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Dierama species and varietals
The genus Dierama is a member of the Iris plant family (Iridaceae) and includes around 44 species. The genus name is derived from the Greek word dierama, meaning 'funnel', referring to the shape of the flowers. Fairy Wand grows well in zones 4-24 (to find your zone, click here: Zone Map).
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Dierama igneum (Fiery Wandflower) Native to southeast Africa, this species of Wandflower produces trumpet shaped pink to salmon pink blooms These are cultivated widely as ornamental garden plants and are hardy down to -10 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant in a sheltered area that is south-facing and receives full sun, and keep roots dry in the wintertime. |
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Dierama pauciflorum (Few-Flowered Wandflower) Native to southern and eastern Africa, this species of Dierama reaches between 12 and 16 inches tall at maturity, and produces flower spikes that rise and dangle above foliage only slightly. Flower stems are sparse, and hold rich pink flowers. |
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Dierama pendulum (Fairy Bell, Hair Bell, Wedding Bell, Angel's Fishing Rods) Endemic to the Eastern Cape area of South Africa, this species produces blue-pink or white flowers on long stems that rise above green foliage clumps. This species reaches between 2 and 3 feet tall at maturity. |
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Dierama pulcherrimum (Angel's Fishing Rod, Hair Bell, Wand Flower) Native to South Africa, this species reaches up to 5 feet tall when in bloom, and produces beautiful arching flower stems that hang over the basal clump of foliage. Flowers bloom in summertime, and are rose-pink. These are hardy plants, but do prefer to be situated in a protected location. The specific epithet pulcherrimum means 'most beautiful'. |
Caring for Dierama
Plant Dierama, or Fairy's Wand, in an open place in the landscape where plants will not be crowded. These flowers grow from corms, which will multiply as time passes, creating colonies of plants. They do not like to be too close to other plants, and can begin to produce fewer flowers in this sort of situation. Grow Dierama in a place that receives full sun; ideally, they should be getting between 6 and 8 hours of direct sun each day for best performance and flowering. They love well-draining soil that is moderately fertile, with a pH of between 6.1 and 7.3 (slightly acidic to neutral). Corms should be planted in springtime; set them 3-5 inches deep spaced 2 feet wide. They do not grow very well in containers, but if this is the only option available, these flowers will need a tall pot with well-draining soil amended with a lot of compost that has adequate drainage holes at the bottom.
Each year in springtime, apply a 2-inch layer of organic compost around the planting area to improve soil structure, drainage, and nutrient load. This feeding should be sufficient to provide these flowers with enough nutrients to get through their growth and flowering seasons with ease. Dead or tattered foliage can be cut back in springtime at the same time as fertilizing occurs. If clumps of plants begin not producing as many flowers, if they have yellowing foliage, or are otherwise struggling, they may benefit from a round of dividing. Although this will improve the health of flowers in the long-run, they do not like to have their corms disturbed once they are in the ground, and may not flower for a few years after dividing. For instructions on how to divide these plants, see the Propagation section below.
Each year in springtime, apply a 2-inch layer of organic compost around the planting area to improve soil structure, drainage, and nutrient load. This feeding should be sufficient to provide these flowers with enough nutrients to get through their growth and flowering seasons with ease. Dead or tattered foliage can be cut back in springtime at the same time as fertilizing occurs. If clumps of plants begin not producing as many flowers, if they have yellowing foliage, or are otherwise struggling, they may benefit from a round of dividing. Although this will improve the health of flowers in the long-run, they do not like to have their corms disturbed once they are in the ground, and may not flower for a few years after dividing. For instructions on how to divide these plants, see the Propagation section below.
Propagation
Dierama can be propagated either by dividing existing plants or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant, and that plants grown from seed can take as many as 5 years to begin producing flowers. To propagate your Fairy Wand plant, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Dierama by Seed
Propagating Dierama by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost, and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in April or May. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
Propagating Dierama by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. The seed pods are pretty easy to spot, they dangle from the branches, left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will begin to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
- Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Propagating Dierama by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost, and pots (only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in April or May. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
- Dawn your protective gear and gather your materials. Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the tuber roots. Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
- Start to tease apart the roots with your gloved fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one large corm (or a few smaller ones) attached.
- Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divided corms about an inch under the soil surface and water thoroughly.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout.
Dierama seed pods remain after flowers have faded.
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Dierama seeds.
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Problems and Pests
Dierama plants can be susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases in the landscape:
- Root Rot
Gallery
Dierama plants have quite a presence in the garden.
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Brazilian Verbena provides a beautiful backdrop for the pendulous blooms of Dierama in this bed.
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These plants are sometimes called Angel's Fishing Rod, due to the appearance of their flowering stems.
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Videos
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Learn about these interesting garden ornamentals.
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How to propagate Dierama by corm division.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 288, Dierama
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