Erica

( EHR - ick - uh )

At-A-Glance Information

Also called Heath or Heather, this group of evergreen shrubs grow best in full sun (or partial shade in the hottest climates), and need regular water. Grown for their delicate structure and small bell-shaped flowers, they are widely used as groundcovers, hedges, and accent shrubs. ​They are known for attracting bees to your garden. Each have their own unique attributes; ones from Europe are hardiest, and are great for groundcovers and shrubs; African types are less hardy, they don't take cold well and do better in containers or in sheltered areas. Finally, species from the Mediterranean are intermediate in hardiness, and are often used as screening plants. Take care when planting these shrubs in the landscape, as plant parts are toxic to humans and pets if ingested.

erica Species and Varietals

The genus Erica includes 857 species of flowering plants and is a member of the family Ericaceae. The genus name is derived from the Latin word for broom, Erica. Species of Heath are divided into groups hailing from Europe, Africa, and the Mediterranean. Plants in this genus are very similar to Calluna and Daboecia (which are both commonly called Heathers, as well). Growing zones vary by species; for more information see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Erica arborea alpina (Tree Heath)
This species grows best in zones 15-17 and 20-24. Native to southern Europe and North Africa, this species reaches 6 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide. It does not reach blooming age for a while after first planting, but after that is free blooming. Hardy to cold temperatures.

​Erica canaliculata (Scotch Heather)
Often called Scotch heather, this species gets to 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide. Best growing zones are 15-17 and 20-24. Leaves are dark green on top, white underneath. Pink to rosy purple flowers appear in winter. This species is sometimes called Christmas Heather because of its blooming time. Varieties include 'Rosa' (pink flowers), 'Rubra' (red flowers), Cut flowers from this species last for weeks.
​Erica carnea (Erica herbacea)
Grow best in zones A3, 2-10 and 14-24. Native to the European Alps, these reach 6-16 inches tall and 2 feet wide. They have medium-green leaves and rosy red flowers winter through spring. These can tolerate neutral or slightly alkaline soil. Varieties are outlined below.
'December Red'
Pink to reddish purple flowers in winter.
'Myretoun Ruby'
Dark green leaves and magenta to crimson blooms. 
'Pink Spangles'
Shell pink to deep pink flowers.
'Ruby Glow'
​Dark green leaves and deep ruby red flowers. 
'Springwood White'
Fast-growing to 8 inches tall and 14 inches wide. Creamy white flowers. 
'Springwood Pink'
Pink flowers and deep green foliage. 
'Vivellii'
Dark green leaves turn bronze in winter and red flowers. 

​Erica cinera (Twisted Heath)
Native to the British Isles and northern Europe, this grows to 1 foot tall and 2.5 feet wide. Has dark green foliage and purple flowers in summer. Varieties include 'Atrosanguinea' (9 inches high and 2.5 feet wide, with white to rose flowers), 'C. D. Eason' (up to 10 inches tall and 20 inches wide, with red flowers), and 'P. S. Patrick' (grows 15 inches high and 2- inches wide, with large purple flowers).
Erica x darleyensis
Grows best in zones 2-10 and 14-24. This hybrid has many great varieties, listed below.
​'Darley Dale'
Bushy growth to 1 foot tall, 2 feet wide, with green leaves. {ink to purple flowers. Hardy plant that can take heat and cold. Best heath for Northern California.
'Furzey'
Bushy growth to 14-18 inches tall and 2 feet wide. Deep pink flowers with dark green leaves.
​'Kramer's Rote' 
Spreading plant reaches 14 inches tall and 2 feet wide. Has dark bronze-green leaves and magenta flowers in winter and early spring.
'Silberschmeize'
Quickly to 2 feet tall, and a little wider. White fragrant flowers from winter to spring. Easy to maintain. 
Erica tetralix (Cross-Leafed Heath)
Grows best in zones 4-6 and 15-17. Native to England and Northern Europe. Upright growth, to 1 foot tall and 2 feet wide. Rosy-pink flowers pop up from summer to early fall. This plant is best with afternoon shade.
'Alba Mollis'
Slightly spreading habit, 1 foot tall and wide, with silvery gray foliage and white flowers from summer to fall. 
'Darleyensis'
Spreading growth to 8 inches tall and 1 foot wide, with gray green foliage and rosy pink flowers in summer. 
​Erica tetralix aurefolia 'Swedish Yellow'
4-6 inches tall and 12 inches wide. Yellow foliage and pale rose-pink flowers in summertime.

Caring for and pruning erica shrubs

Erica shrubs can be planted at any time of the year in full to partial sun. They prefer soil that is well-draining and has a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5 (neutral-acidic). These are considered easy to grow and care for, and will provide your garden with foliage and flower interest for a majority of the year. Pruning is simple; complete a light pruning after blooms have faded, being careful not to disturb any old wood. To regenerate an older or unhealthy plant (which will have to be done about every 3-4 years), cut the entire shrub down to about 8 inches. It will regrow from this height and have lush foliage the next growing season. New Heather plantings will require moderate amounts of water as they are becoming established, but when mature (after about two years), these shrubs are considered drought-tolerant. Fertilize in spring with a feed made for acid-loving plants if your Heather plants are not performing well. For potted Heath, follow the same pruning instructions, provide with more water (water whenever the soil is dry on top), and fertilize with a feed made for acid-loving plants every year. Pot up when necessary to avoid the plant becoming root-bound.

Propagation

Heather plants are best propagated via semi-hardwood cuttings taken in late summertime, though they can also be propagated from seed. Because there are so many different varieties and hybrids available, it is likely that you will not end up with an identical clone of the parent plant if you are harvesting Erica and growing it from seed, but growing from seed can be a fun experiment! To propagate your Erica shrub, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Erica by Cutting
  1. Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
  2. In late summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 2 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
  3. Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
  4. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.

Propagating Erica by Seed
  1. Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. Hybrid plants for the most part are sterile, and will not be able to be propagated in this way. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows. 
  2. Harvest your seeds a few weeks after flowers have faded. The seed pods will feel dry and fall off the plant easily when they are ready. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will begin to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
  3. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 2-3 months from sowing.
  4. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot. After the seedlings have sprouted their first sets of true leaves (above the cotyledons, they should be about an inch tall at this point), pinch the tops off to encourage a bushier habit.
  5. Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed) or fall, when you can transplant it to its new home.
Erica seed pods are left on the plant after flowers have faded. Once they brown and start to fall off the plant, they can be harvested for the seeds inside.
Erica seeds.

Problems and Pests

Heathers are commonly pest and disease-free plantings, but they do suffer from the following issues from time to time: 
  • Root Rot
  • Vine Weevils
  • Rabbits
  • Deer
For more information on these issues, including how to eradicate and further prevent them, see the links below:
​

Gallery

Use Erica shrubs to add delicate color to your garden.
Use Erica shrubs as groundcovers hear walkways.
Camellia hiemalis 'Shishi Gashira'

Videos

All about Heaths and Heathers.
Learn more about the differences between the Heaths and Heathers.
A great video all about Erica carnea.
How to prune your Heather plants.
How to do a hard prune of your Heather plants.

Resources

How to Grow Heather Plants in Your Garden
How to Grow Erica
Erica heather - Caring for Winter Heather in Ground and Pot
Wikipedia: Erica (plant)
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 304 - 305, Erica
If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or photos you’d like to add to the gallery, please let me know by sending me a message using the button below!
​