Eriobotrya
( er - ee - oh - boh - TRY - ah )
At-A-Glance InformationCommonly known as Loquat, these evergreen trees and shrubs need full sun to partial shade and moderate to regular water. The fruits will attract hungry birds and other wildlife to your garden. They are native to China and have sharply toothed leaves. These plants make great espalier subjects as well as container plants on patios and along walkways, and can also be grown as shade trees or as members of urban orchards. Take care when planting these trees in the garden, as they can cause adverse health issues for humans and pets if consumed in large quantities.
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Eriobotrya Species and Varietals
The genus Eriobotrya is a member of the plant family Rosaceae and includes 17 species. Some sources consider Eriobotyra to be a synonym of Rhaphiolepis. The best growing zones for Loquat trees vary depending on the species; for more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
Eriobotrya deflexa (Bronze Loquat) Best in zones 8-24, this species of Loquat is fast growing and has a shrubby habit. It can be trained into a small tree or espaliered, and has new leaves in a bright copper color that is beautiful against the existing green leaves. This tree produces creamy white flowers in springtime, and does not produce fruit. These trees are native to China, Taiwan and Vietnam. |
Eriobotrya japonica (Loquat, Japanese Plum, Chinese Plum)
Best in zones 6-24, H1 and H2, this species produces edible fruit but is most commonly used as an ornamental tree. It reaches 15-30 feet tall and spreads out to be just as wide, but will be narrower when grown in shade. Leaves are leathery and crisp, with rust-colored wooly undersides. New branches are also wooly. Flowers are small, white and fragrant and appear in clusters in autumn. Fruit is orange yellow and 1-2 inches long, and can be eaten fresh, preserved, or in baked goods. Varieties are listed below.
Best in zones 6-24, H1 and H2, this species produces edible fruit but is most commonly used as an ornamental tree. It reaches 15-30 feet tall and spreads out to be just as wide, but will be narrower when grown in shade. Leaves are leathery and crisp, with rust-colored wooly undersides. New branches are also wooly. Flowers are small, white and fragrant and appear in clusters in autumn. Fruit is orange yellow and 1-2 inches long, and can be eaten fresh, preserved, or in baked goods. Varieties are listed below.
Caring for and pruning eriobotrya Trees
These subtropical trees prefer to be planted in full sun to partial shade conditions. They thrive in full sun, and will flower and therefore fruit more profusely in this exposure, but they can also tolerate light shade, especially in regions with very hot summertime weather. Ideally, place Loquat trees in a spot in the landscape that will receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sun each day. These trees prefer soil that is slightly acidic to neutral (with a pH of between 5.5 and 7.0). Soil should be well-draining to prevent any root rot issues from taking hold. If local soil is especially clayey, amend the planting site with plenty of sand and organic material before installing. These trees are not heavy feeders, but also do not thrive in poor soils; ensure that soil is somewhat fertile before planting, as well. Adding compost or other organic fertilizers like manure can go a long way in increasing soil fertility. After planting, apply a thick layer of mulch to the ground around the base of the tree. This will help to suppress weed growth, maintain soil temperatures, and increase soil moisture retention. Water newly planted Loquat trees regularly to help them establish a strong root system. Keep soil evenly moist during this time, ensuring that it is not getting waterlogged. Mature trees can handle some drought conditions, but they will perform better with consistent waterings during the active growing season in spring and summertime.
Loquat trees don't typically need heavy prunings; simply trim back damaged or dead branches to maintain a handsome shape and promote air circulation through the center of the tree. Prune after the tree has finished fruiting in late winter or early springtime. Fertilizing is also not a necessity for these trees; a simple application of organic compost each year in springtime around the base of trees is sufficient to provide nutrients for the growing season. If trees seem to be struggling, however, they may benefit from additional feedings with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer applied in spring or summer. Avoid over-fertilizing Loquat trees, as this can result in excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowering (and subsequent fruiting).
Harvesting Loquats
These trees are typically self-fertile, and do not need a partner. However, having more than one tree in close proximity can go a long way in maximizing harvests. Flowers bloom in late summer to fall, and fruit ripens in late winter or early springtime, though these dates depend on the species grown and the local climate conditions. Fruits are ready for harvest when it is fully colored yellow-orange, and slightly soft when squeezed. It will be able to be easily twisted off of the tree when ripened. Fruits may not all be ripe at the same time, so multiple harvests per season is typically required. They are best eaten soon after harvesting, and can stay refrigerated for about a week before spoiling. Loquat fruits typically have a sweet, tangy flavor that is reminiscent of a combination of many other fruits, such as apricots, cherries, pears, plums, peaches, melons and mangoes. Fruits are commonly eaten fresh, and can also be added to salads, jams or other preserves, and baked goods.
Loquat trees don't typically need heavy prunings; simply trim back damaged or dead branches to maintain a handsome shape and promote air circulation through the center of the tree. Prune after the tree has finished fruiting in late winter or early springtime. Fertilizing is also not a necessity for these trees; a simple application of organic compost each year in springtime around the base of trees is sufficient to provide nutrients for the growing season. If trees seem to be struggling, however, they may benefit from additional feedings with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer applied in spring or summer. Avoid over-fertilizing Loquat trees, as this can result in excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowering (and subsequent fruiting).
Harvesting Loquats
These trees are typically self-fertile, and do not need a partner. However, having more than one tree in close proximity can go a long way in maximizing harvests. Flowers bloom in late summer to fall, and fruit ripens in late winter or early springtime, though these dates depend on the species grown and the local climate conditions. Fruits are ready for harvest when it is fully colored yellow-orange, and slightly soft when squeezed. It will be able to be easily twisted off of the tree when ripened. Fruits may not all be ripe at the same time, so multiple harvests per season is typically required. They are best eaten soon after harvesting, and can stay refrigerated for about a week before spoiling. Loquat fruits typically have a sweet, tangy flavor that is reminiscent of a combination of many other fruits, such as apricots, cherries, pears, plums, peaches, melons and mangoes. Fruits are commonly eaten fresh, and can also be added to salads, jams or other preserves, and baked goods.
Propagation
Eriobotrya can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Caesalpinia, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Eriobotrya by Cutting
Propagating Eriobotrya by Seed
Propagating Eriobotrya by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
- In early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch semi-hardwood portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Eriobotrya by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. Seeds are contained inside of the fruits produced by these trees, and there are typically between 3 and 5 per fruit (though there can be as many as 10, depending on the species and variety grown). When fruits are ripe, seeds can be removed; this typically happens in fall to early winter. Fruits will be orange in color when ready for harvesting.
- Caesalpinia seeds have a hard coating that protects them, but this coating also makes it a little difficult to get them to germinate. We can help the process along by scarifying them with sandpaper (or simply rubbing them against an abrasive surface). Do this with as many seeds as you can; they will probably not all sow, and the ones that do will be of varying characteristics. The more seeds you plant, the more chances you will have to get the resulting shrub you want. Place your seeds in lukewarm water for six hours. Viable seeds will sink to the bottom, and non-viable seeds will float to the top. You can discard any seeds that float.
- Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Problems and Pests
Loquat trees are relatively pest-resistant, but may occasionally have issues with the following:
- Aphids
- Spider Mites
- Scale Insects
- Root Rot
- Leaf Spot
Gallery
Videos
Learn all about Loquat trees.
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How to grow a Loquat tree from seed.
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Find out what happened to this Loquat tree.
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Why should you grow a Loquat tree?
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 306, Eriobotrya
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