Euphorbia
( yew - FORB - ee - uh )
At-A-Glance Information
This is a group of annuals, biennials, perennials, and evergreen to deciduous shrubs and trees and are commonly called Spurge. They need moderate to regular water, and most bloom in spring through summer. The milky sap from these plants can be irritating or poisonous, so take care when planting them in high-traffic areas in your yard. This genus includes over two thousand species, and many are succulent-looking and mimic cactus in appearance. Take care when planting Euphorbia in your garden, as these plants have a very potent sap that can cause severe skin irritation in humans and pets, and even possible blindness if skin or eye contact is made.
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Euphorbia Species and Varietals
The genus Euphorbia includes over 2,000 distinct species and is a member of the family Euphorbiaceae. About 1,200 species are considered succulents. The genus was principally described by Carl Linnaeus in his publication Species Plantarum in 1753. The common name for Euphorbia plants, Spurge, originates from the Old English or Old French word for 'to purge' (espurge). This is in reference to the fact that these plants were used as laxatives at one point. The genus name Euphorbia was named after the Greek physician Euphorbos, who documented the use of these plants as laxatives. Euphorbia growing zones vary depending on the species; see descriptions below for more information. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
Euphorbia amygdaloides Grows in zones 2b-24 as a perennial, native to Europe and Turkey. Gets 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide, and has reddish-green stems. Dark green leaves are red underneath. Green-yellow flowers bloom in mid-spring to early summer. This species is best in sun but can tolerate some shade. Varieties include 'Efanthia' (compact), 'Helena's Blush' (variegated pink/cream leaves), 'Purpurea' (purple foliage and bright green flowers), and Euphorbia amygdaloides robbiae (pictured, shade tolerant and spreading, sometimes invasive). |
Euphorbia 'Blue Haze' This varietal grows best in zones 7-9 and 14-17 and has a compact, bush-like growth to 1.5 feet high and 2-3 feet wide. Powder-blue leaves grow from red stems, which also carry clusters of chartreuse flowers from spring into summer. These plants can take full sun to partial shade, and tolerate arid soil. |
Euphorbia characias
This is a perennial species that grows best in zones 4-24 and is a native of the Mediterranean. Blue-green leaves are most common, and chartreuse or lime green flowers bloom in late winter. Forms a 4 foot tall domed bush. Commonly grown varieties are listed below.
This is a perennial species that grows best in zones 4-24 and is a native of the Mediterranean. Blue-green leaves are most common, and chartreuse or lime green flowers bloom in late winter. Forms a 4 foot tall domed bush. Commonly grown varieties are listed below.
Euphorbia griffithii Grows best in zones 2-10 and 14-24. This perennial is a Himalayan native. This species spreads by creepers, and has green leaves tinged red when young. In early summer, this shrub produces reddish orange bracts. It dies back in winter and enjoys full sun to light shade. Varieties include 'Fireglow' (pictured, with vivid orange bracts), and 'Dixter' (with coppery dark green leaves and orange-red flowers). |
Euphorbia heterophylla (False Poinsettia, Mexican Fire Plant, Painted Spurge) Annual; grows best in zones 1-24, H1 and H2. Grows to 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide. Bright green leaves, with larger ones resembling Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). In summertime, upper leaves are variegated with red and white markings. Heavy reseeder in desert climates, and takes full sun. |
Euphorbia hypericifolia (Euphorbia graminea) A perennial in zones 13, 21-24, H1 and H2, but can be grown as an annual in any zone. This plant forms delicate mounds 12-18 inches tall. Small white flowers bloom against olive-green foliage year-round in mild climates, and in spring to fall elsewhere. Best in full sun or partial shade. Great for pots and hanging baskets. Varieties include 'Diamond Frost' and 'Breathless Blush' (with deep pink leaves and flowers). |
Euphorbia marginata (Snow-on-the-Mountain) Annual that grows best in zones 1-24. Native to central North America, this plant grows 2-3 feet tall and 1 foot wide. Prefers full sun or partial shade. Light green leaves, with upper leaves having white margins. Summertime flowers are green and white. Variety 'Summer Icicle' has brighter white markings than the species. |
Euphorbia x martini Perennial plant that grows in zones 3-24 to 2-3 feet tall and just as wide. Evergreen leaves are tinged purple when immature. Prefers full sun or light shade, and is relatively drought resistant. Stems are red in winter. Variety 'Red Martin' has upright leaves that show off the red stems. |
Euphorbia milii (Crown of Thorns) This woody shrub grows in zones 13, 21-24, H1 and H2. Stems have thorns. Light green leaves appear near branch ends, and bracts are red, yellow, orange, and pink. This species is great for seaside gardens due to its high salt tolerance. Prefers full sun or light shade, and a rocky planting medium is best to ensure excellent drainage. |
Euphorbia palustris Perennial that grows best in zones 2b-9 and 14-17. Native to Asia and Europe, this plant forms a 2-3 foot tall and 3-4 feet wide clump with green leaves that turn orange in the fall. Yellow flowers pop in spring and early summer. Dies back in the winter cold and can grow in damp/boggy conditions. |
Euphorbia polychroma (Euphorbia epithymoides) This perennial species grows well in zones A2 and 1-24. It forms a 1.5 foot tall, 2 foot wide spherical shrub, with clusters of yellow flowers through midspring and midsummer. Fall color is yellow to orange-red. Varieties include 'Bonfire' (with red mature leaves in summertime), 'Candy' (with purple stems and yellow bracts), and 'Lacy' (with white variegated leaves). |
Euphorbia pulcherrima (Poinsettia) Evergreen, semi-evergreen or deciduous shrub depending on the growing zone climate (best in zones 13, 16-24, H1 and H2). Grows to 10 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Inconspicuous flowers surrounded by bracts that can be white, yellowish, pink, or marbled. Blooms pop in winter and last until spring. Can be grown as an informal hedge. Color can be improved through feeding with high-nitrogen fertilizer every two weeks. |
Euphorbia rigida (Euphorbia biglandulosa) Perennial species that grows best in zones 4-24. Tops out at 3-5 feet tall and just as wide, with fleshy grey-green leaves and flowers that are chartreuse and fade to pink with age. Great for border plantings, rock gardens or containers. Takes full sun and tolerates drought conditions well. |
Caring for and pruning Euphorbia shrubs
Take care when planting, handling, and working nearby your Euphorbia plants, as the sap is very irritating to skin and eyes if contact is made. Make sure to plant your Euphorbia out of reach of children and your pets (if they tend to graze on your garden plants).
Euphorbia shrubs, depending on their zone range and hardiness, are either perennial or annual plants. These plants require varying degrees of sun exposure, so check your species description before choosing a place in your yard for planting. These also do very well in containers, with the added benefit of being able to be moved around (or indoors) if necessary. Plant Euphorbia in well-draining soil rich in organic material with a pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 (neutral to acidic). If you will be growing your plant in a container, use a soil specific to cacti and succulents. Most species are drought-tolerant and do not need much water once established, though this varies somewhat. Check your species description for more information. Once established, Euphorbia plants are easy to care for. They will benefit from a balanced fertilizer applied yearly, and enjoy soil that is amended with plenty of organic material. Prune your Euphorbia by trimming back any damaged or dying stems in springtime. Immediately after blooms fade, cut the blooming stems back to the base of the plant.
Euphorbia shrubs, depending on their zone range and hardiness, are either perennial or annual plants. These plants require varying degrees of sun exposure, so check your species description before choosing a place in your yard for planting. These also do very well in containers, with the added benefit of being able to be moved around (or indoors) if necessary. Plant Euphorbia in well-draining soil rich in organic material with a pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 (neutral to acidic). If you will be growing your plant in a container, use a soil specific to cacti and succulents. Most species are drought-tolerant and do not need much water once established, though this varies somewhat. Check your species description for more information. Once established, Euphorbia plants are easy to care for. They will benefit from a balanced fertilizer applied yearly, and enjoy soil that is amended with plenty of organic material. Prune your Euphorbia by trimming back any damaged or dying stems in springtime. Immediately after blooms fade, cut the blooming stems back to the base of the plant.
Propagation
Euphorbia can be propagated via seed and cuttings, though growing from seed is much more difficult (as the seeds are hard to find and harvest). For general purposes, propagate your Euphorbia via cuttings taken in springtime as new growth is starting to pop. To propagate your Euphorbia using cuttings, you'll need a clean pair of sharp garden shears, gloves, a pot filled with cactus or succulent potting mix, rooting hormone, and a pencil. Once you've gathered your materials, follow the instructions below.
- Take note that handling Euphorbia generally means coming into contact with irritating sap. Do not take this lightly; the sap can cause major skin irritation, and if eye contact is made, the sap can cause blindness. Wearing gloves is mandatory for working with these plants.
- Fill your pot with cacti or succulent potting mix, and water to ensure that excellent drainage is occurring. Then, set your pot aside.
- Take your cuttings using your sharp, clean garden shears. You should take a stem tip cutting that is at least three inches long. Set your cutting aside for a few days so that the end can form a callous. This will improve the chances that the cutting will successfully root.
- Ensure that your potted soil is evenly moistened, and make a hole in the center with your pencil about a half inch deep. Dip the end of your cutting in rooting hormone, and carefully lower it into the hole you've created. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack the soil down too much.
- Keep the cutting in an area that receives indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet, until your cutting has taken root. Once you notice new growth on your propagation, you'll know you have roots. After the root system has developed enough to give resistance when the top of the plant is tugged gently, it is ready to be planted in its forever home in a container or out in your garden.
Problems and Pests
Most pests find the milky sap of Euphorbia plants enough of a reason to stay away from the plant, but there are a few pests who still come around, including:
- Spider Mites
- Mealybugs
- Root Rot
- Fungal Diseases
Gallery
Videos
An introduction to two different types of Euphorbia.
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Pruning your Euphorbia is simple!
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How to safely cut back your Euphorbia.
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How Euphorbia is used in the garden.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 315 - 317, Euphorbia
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