Fuchsia
( FOOK - see - uh )
|
At-A-Glance InformationFuchsia represents a group of evergreen and deciduous shrubs that need full sun or partial shade, regular water, and attract hummingbirds in droves. These shrubs are native to the tropical Americas, and grow best in cool-summer areas with high humidity. Although they are considered shrubs, many have a vining, trailing habit and are great for hanging baskets.
|
Fuchsia Species and Varietals
The genus Fuchsia includes about 110 distinct species and is a member of the Willowherb or Evening Primrose plant family Onagraceae. This genus was named for German botanist Leonhart Fuchs by French explorer and botanist Charles Plumier. Fuchsia growing zones vary by species. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
|
Fuchsia boliviana This evergreen species grows best in zones 17 and 22-24. Native to South America, this woody shrub can get to 12 feet tall and 8 feet wide on average. Pale green leaves are hairy, and blooms pop throughout the year, dangling clusters of red flowers with slender tubes. Fruit is pink-red. Variety 'Alba' produces white and pink-red flowers and white fruit. |
|
|
Fuchsia compos-portoi This species from Brazil is deciduous and grows best in zones 3b-9 and 14-24. Has red and violet flowers and a dense growth to about 7 feet tall. Profuse bloomer. Can be grown into a shrub or climb trees or other structures. |
|
Fuchsia denticulata This is an evergreen species native to Peru and Bolivia. Grows best in zones 17 and 22-24. Gets 8 feet tall and 3 feet wide, with dark green leaves. Flowers pop in spring and summer and are orange and red. Edible fruits follow. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. Well-known hybrid is 'Fanfare' (10 foot long trains, great for using as an espalier specimen or draped over a trellis). |
|
|
Fuchsia excorticata (New Zealand Tree Fuchsia) Grows best in zones 7-9, 15-17 and 22-24. Evergreen in frost free areas but mainly considered to be deciduous. Native to New Zealand, this tree fuchsia can get to 10 feet tall or higher, with gnarled, twisted trunk and peeling bark. Leaves are green above and silver underneath. Springtime flowers are green, opening to burgundy, with bright blue pollen. Edible red or purple berries follow. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. Variety 'Kiwi Sheen' has purple-red leaves with silvery pink undersides. |
|
Fuchsia fulgens Evergreen species that grows best in zones 15-17 and 22-24. Native to Mexico, this species forms a shrub 5 feet tall and wide, with heart shaped leaves. Blooms winter to spring with orange-red flowers in clusters. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. |
|
Fuchsia Hybrids
Grows best in zones 4-6, 15-17, 22-24, and H1. Sensitive to freezing temperatures. There are hundreds of varieties of hybrid Fuchsia sold at nurseries, and size varies from 3-6 feet tall and wide, to trailing, hanging-basket varieties. Sepals are white, red or pink and the corollas can be almost any color. There are different flower forms and types of inflorescences. Many of these hybrids are sensitive to Fuchsia Gall Mite. See mite-resistant selections below:
Grows best in zones 4-6, 15-17, 22-24, and H1. Sensitive to freezing temperatures. There are hundreds of varieties of hybrid Fuchsia sold at nurseries, and size varies from 3-6 feet tall and wide, to trailing, hanging-basket varieties. Sepals are white, red or pink and the corollas can be almost any color. There are different flower forms and types of inflorescences. Many of these hybrids are sensitive to Fuchsia Gall Mite. See mite-resistant selections below:
'Arouet Fils'
|
'Campo Molina'
|
'Campo Thilco'
|
'First Success'
|
'Galfrey Blush'
|
'Hinnerike'
|
'Mendonoma Belle'
|
'Strybing's Peach'
|
In the Northwest, one of the main issues growing Fuchsia is protecting from cold (and frost). These hardier selections of Fuchsia hybrids will stand up better to this weather:
'Cardinal'
|
'Jingle Bells'
|
'June Bride'
|
'Mrs. Popple'
|
'Speciosa'
|
'Surprise'
|
'Phyllis'
|
'Rufus'
|
'Tessie'
|
'Voltaire'
|
'White Knights Amethyst'
|
'Santa Cruz'
|
|
Fuchsia magellanica Grows best in zones 3b-9, 14-24 and H1. Deciduous where frosts are light; frost will damage the top of the plant. Native to Chile and Argentina. In frost-free areas, this plant can reach 10 feet tall and wide. Has a profuse bloom of drooping red and violet flowers. Very susceptible to Fuchsia Gall Mite. Varieties include 'Hawkshead' (hardy variety with dainty white blooms), and 'Windcliff Fury' (purple-red flowers). |
|
|
Fuchsia paniculata This evergreen variety grows best in zones 16, 17, and 22-24. Native to Mexico and Central America. Gets 12-14 feet tall and 8 feet wide, with shiny leaves. Flowers are small and lavender-pink and bloom in clusters. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. |
|
Fuchsia procumbens This semi-evergreen or deciduous variety of Fuchsia is from New Zealand, and grows best in zones 4-6, 15-17, and 21-24. Gets 6 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide, flowers are petal-less but have orange sepals dotted with green with purple tips. Bright red, delicious berries follow. Great as a groundcover and in container plantings. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. |
|
|
Fuchsia thymifolia Evergreen species that grows in zones 14-17 and 20-24 and is native to Mexico. Gets 3-9 feet tall and wide, with glossy green leaves and dangling, tiny white to pink flowers. Good candidate for a bonsai. Resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. |
|
Fuchsia triphylla This evergreen species of Fuchsia is best in zones 16-17, 23 and 24. This is seldom seen in gardens and not widely sold, though its varietal 'Gartenmeister Bonstedt' is more recognizable. This species gets to 2 feet tall and wide, and is more tolerant of heat than other species. Leaves are red-bronze above, purple underneath. Orange-red flowers droop in clusters, and show year-round in mild climates. Needs to be protected from frost, but is resistant to Fuchsia Gall Mite. |
|
Caring for and pruning Fuchsia shrubs
Fuchsia shrubs prefer to be planted in springtime (after the last frosts have passed) in full shade to at least partial shade conditions in well-draining but moist, rich soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0. Amend soil before planting with plenty of organic matter. These plants require regular feedings to perform and bloom well; starting in springtime, apply a balanced fertilizer once every two weeks. Diluted fish emulsion works very well; Fuchsias in pots or hanging baskets will prefer a water-soluble fertilizer, where in-ground Fuchsias will do better with a granular, slow-release variety. Keep soil consistently moist; potted plants will require daily watering. Fuchsias prefer a humid environment and temperatures that stay below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
As new growth appears in the springtime, pinch back to encourage a bushier, more foliage-rich habit. When a branch has finished blooming, snip it back with a pair of sharp, clean garden shears. Do this deadheading on a weekly basis to keep a neat appearance. If your Fuchsia plant has suffered frost damage in the cooler months of the year and is looking haggard and damaged, a rejuvenation pruning may be in order. Cut the plant back hard, bringing all stems back to the base in early spring. The plant should resprout new growth quickly. Plants can be moved indoors during the winter months to avoid dieback due to frost.
How to Harvest Fuchsia Plants
Many people don't realize that in addition to producing beautiful blooms to look at, Fuchsia leaves, flowers and the berries that follow are actually edible. Fruits are about a half inch to an inch in length, are either round or egg-shaped, and have a sweet, slightly acidic taste. Flower petals have a similar taste to them, and are wonderful in fruit and foliage salads. Harvest the flowers as soon as they appear on the plants; the entire flower is edible, though the petals are the tastiest part. If you would like to harvest the berries, you'll have to withhold deadheading and allow the flowers to fall off naturally. The berries left behind will ripen on the plant, and be ready to pick when they are soft (but not mushy). Fuchsia varieties that produce exceptional berries for eating include hybrids 'Jingle Bells', 'Fuschiaberry' as well as the species Fuchsia procumbens. Fuchsia leaves can be picked and eaten at any time, though newer leaves are less bitter than more mature ones.
Once picked, Fuchsia berries don't last long, so it's important to eat or preserve them as quickly as possible after they've ripened. A great option for preserving Fuchsia berries is to freeze them (they can stay frozen for up to a year); this will give you time to collect enough to make a dish or preserve. They can also be dried in a cool place with great airflow, and eaten like raisins. Add flowers and leaves to fresh dishes shortly after picking. Berries can be turned into jellies and jams, used in baking dishes, or added to yogurt.
As new growth appears in the springtime, pinch back to encourage a bushier, more foliage-rich habit. When a branch has finished blooming, snip it back with a pair of sharp, clean garden shears. Do this deadheading on a weekly basis to keep a neat appearance. If your Fuchsia plant has suffered frost damage in the cooler months of the year and is looking haggard and damaged, a rejuvenation pruning may be in order. Cut the plant back hard, bringing all stems back to the base in early spring. The plant should resprout new growth quickly. Plants can be moved indoors during the winter months to avoid dieback due to frost.
How to Harvest Fuchsia Plants
Many people don't realize that in addition to producing beautiful blooms to look at, Fuchsia leaves, flowers and the berries that follow are actually edible. Fruits are about a half inch to an inch in length, are either round or egg-shaped, and have a sweet, slightly acidic taste. Flower petals have a similar taste to them, and are wonderful in fruit and foliage salads. Harvest the flowers as soon as they appear on the plants; the entire flower is edible, though the petals are the tastiest part. If you would like to harvest the berries, you'll have to withhold deadheading and allow the flowers to fall off naturally. The berries left behind will ripen on the plant, and be ready to pick when they are soft (but not mushy). Fuchsia varieties that produce exceptional berries for eating include hybrids 'Jingle Bells', 'Fuschiaberry' as well as the species Fuchsia procumbens. Fuchsia leaves can be picked and eaten at any time, though newer leaves are less bitter than more mature ones.
Once picked, Fuchsia berries don't last long, so it's important to eat or preserve them as quickly as possible after they've ripened. A great option for preserving Fuchsia berries is to freeze them (they can stay frozen for up to a year); this will give you time to collect enough to make a dish or preserve. They can also be dried in a cool place with great airflow, and eaten like raisins. Add flowers and leaves to fresh dishes shortly after picking. Berries can be turned into jellies and jams, used in baking dishes, or added to yogurt.
Propagation
Fuchsia can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Fuchsia by Cutting
Propagating Fuchsia by Seed
Propagating Fuchsia by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about one to two weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Fuchsia by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant, especially if you are dealing with a hybrid variety. To propagate by seed, you will need a strainer, a paper towel, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds in autumn. The seed pods on Fuchsia plants are contained inside fruiting bodies that appear after flowers have faded (see the photos below). Cut the berries off of your Fuchsia plant, and set them aside until you are ready to work with them. Once you've collected all of your berries, remove the seeds from the sticky flesh and rinse them in a strainer. Then, let them dry on a paper towel.
- The following March or April, water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Seeds can also be sown immediately after being harvested, but they will need more care over the winter months to keep them at an acceptable temperature. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-14 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Fuchsia berries are left behind after flowers fade and ripen over time. Seeds are contained in these berries.
|
Fuchsia seeds need to be removed from the fruit, rinsed, and dried before sowing.
|
Problems and Pests
Fuchsias seldom suffer from disease or pest issues, though they are susceptible to:
- Fuchsia Gall Mite
Gallery
The drooping flowers on Fuchsia shrubs are beautiful when admired from close-up.
|
Fuchsia shrubs when grown in the ground are great accents for along pathways.
|
Use Fuchsia in hanging baskets to add foliage and color to overhangs and patio spaces.
|
Videos
|
All about growing and caring for Fuchsia.
|
How to grow Fuchsia in your garden.
|
|
How to propagate Fuchsia plants.
|
How to rejuvenate Fuchsia plants.
|
Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 329 - 330, Fuchsia
If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or photos you’d like to add to the gallery, please let me know by sending me a message using the button below!
