Garden Design II
"A backyard designed to be a 'little piece of Heaven' can remake ordinary time
and space into something memorable."
- Jan Johansen
and space into something memorable."
- Jan Johansen
introduction
Now that you've spent some time learning about the various styles of garden design and gotten some ideas of which styles you'd like to incorporate, you're ready to start the actual design process for your own space. Garden design encompasses so much more than simply installing plants; it is a holistic process that takes into consideration how the garden will be used, how the yard is viewed from inside the home, the natural landscape around your property, and the purpose of the garden itself, for example as a native pollinator haven or a crop production space. Planning a garden involves many activities, including:
It is important to fully understand at this point in the process that planning and implementing a garden design does not happen overnight (despite what many landscaping design television programs will have you believe). Creating a personalized space, either indoors or outdoors, takes time, effort, foresight, tough decisions, and, yes, some manual labor. But the payoff for all of this hard work is a beautiful landscape that can add beauty to both indoor and outdoor spaces and provide enjoyment and serenity to all those who visit your property.
Factoring in
The most important job of any landscape or garden designer like yourself is to bring together the many factors affecting the planning of an outdoor space into a cohesive plan. Before beginning, it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with these important factors so that you have a general framework to use in structuring your master plan. Fundamental principles include the following:
Social Aspects of a Landscape
The desires and needs of the people using the outdoor area should be considered first and foremost. Sometimes, it is helpful to talk to the group that uses your yard on a regular basis or have them take an informal poll about what they would like to see the most in the final design. Special considerations should be made for pets and children that don't quite know what they want in a yard or can't fully communicate wants or needs. Analyze how the landscape is currently used, and note any times in the recent past when you or someone else has lamented not having certain features. It is also important to consider the future of your garden and what it will need to accommodate or provide in the years to come. Answer the following questions to help guide you:
Social Aspects of a Landscape
The desires and needs of the people using the outdoor area should be considered first and foremost. Sometimes, it is helpful to talk to the group that uses your yard on a regular basis or have them take an informal poll about what they would like to see the most in the final design. Special considerations should be made for pets and children that don't quite know what they want in a yard or can't fully communicate wants or needs. Analyze how the landscape is currently used, and note any times in the recent past when you or someone else has lamented not having certain features. It is also important to consider the future of your garden and what it will need to accommodate or provide in the years to come. Answer the following questions to help guide you:
- Who will be using the landscape, including children, pets, or other animals?
- How do you use the landscape currently?
- Are there any special considerations that need to be noted (garden visitors who are blind, have allergies to insects or pollen, need more shade, require seating areas, etc.)?
- Will social areas, barbeques and other cooking equipment, or yard games be incorporated into the design?
- Will any tweaks to the plan need to be made in the coming years to accommodate life changes?
- Will pets have full access to all garden areas?
Climate and Site Analysis
Each garden has its own climate and within it smaller microclimates that create a completely unique space. Surrounding structures and foliage, the path of the sun across the property, the type of soil, proximity to wildlife areas, existing water features, and nearby large trees can all impact the climate in a garden. Looking at your space with a holistic eye is key to determining which type of design you will go with in the end. Answer the following questions to help guide you:
Each garden has its own climate and within it smaller microclimates that create a completely unique space. Surrounding structures and foliage, the path of the sun across the property, the type of soil, proximity to wildlife areas, existing water features, and nearby large trees can all impact the climate in a garden. Looking at your space with a holistic eye is key to determining which type of design you will go with in the end. Answer the following questions to help guide you:
- What does the sun pattern on the property look like?
- What existing structures are present that affect the shade on the property?
- Are there any water features in the landscape?
- What mature shrubs and trees are there on the site already?
- What type of soil do you have in your garden?
- What is the area around your property like (greenbelt-adjacent, proximity to freeways and other busy roads, surrounded by wilderness, etc.)?
- Is there a wildlife presence in the garden? How active is it?
- What is the potential for a wildfire to affect your property in the future?
- Are there any larger current climate issues or local ordinances that are affecting your garden or your ability to water it?
- What are your favorite aspects of the garden as it is right now?
- What are the major problem areas of the garden? Do you foresee needing to remove any large trees or shrubs in the near future?
Materials and Budget
Your materials and budget will both depend on what is available for purchase in your area and how much those materials cost. Knowing the resources in your area that you can use - both free and for a charge - in building your landscape will give you a general idea of how much garden projects will cost and how difficult it will be (and sometimes, how long you will have to wait) to obtain needed materials for projects like bordering beds, fencing in areas of the property, adding features like ponds or pools, etc. Answer the following questions to help guide you:
Your materials and budget will both depend on what is available for purchase in your area and how much those materials cost. Knowing the resources in your area that you can use - both free and for a charge - in building your landscape will give you a general idea of how much garden projects will cost and how difficult it will be (and sometimes, how long you will have to wait) to obtain needed materials for projects like bordering beds, fencing in areas of the property, adding features like ponds or pools, etc. Answer the following questions to help guide you:
- Identify and list vendors in your area that sell the materials, tools, and plants that you will be looking to purchase throughout your garden design process.
- What are some groups in your area that provide free or low-cost garden advice and information? Is there a Master Gardener program in your area?
- What do you foresee being the largest expense of your plan?
- Is there a maximum budget that you have in mind for your garden?
- Do you plan on enlisting the help of a contractor or landscaping professional?
Legal Considerations
Before beginning breaking ground on any garden design plan, consult local government websites and planning commission resources to investigate any ordinances or legal considerations that need to be made as a part of your garden plan. You can also informally seek out information from neighbors or local businesses that might point you to some aspects of your property that you hadn't considered yet. These clues can lead you in the right direction. Although this may be one of the most boring aspects of planning your space, it is the most critical. Even though you are working on private property, care needs to be taken to follow local and state laws and regulations like caps on hardscaped square footage, mandated backflow preventers on installed irrigation systems, required building permits for large structures, or enforced setback ordinances. Answer the following questions to help guide you:
Before beginning breaking ground on any garden design plan, consult local government websites and planning commission resources to investigate any ordinances or legal considerations that need to be made as a part of your garden plan. You can also informally seek out information from neighbors or local businesses that might point you to some aspects of your property that you hadn't considered yet. These clues can lead you in the right direction. Although this may be one of the most boring aspects of planning your space, it is the most critical. Even though you are working on private property, care needs to be taken to follow local and state laws and regulations like caps on hardscaped square footage, mandated backflow preventers on installed irrigation systems, required building permits for large structures, or enforced setback ordinances. Answer the following questions to help guide you:
- Make a list of contacts, including friends, neighbors, businesses, and government resources that you can consult for information on the legality of various gardening projects in your area.
- When was the last time your property lines were measured and marked?
- Are there any trees, shrubs, or vines that are encroaching onto your property from a neighbors'? Are they a problem?
- Are you going to be installing any irrigation or support structures for plants?
- What setback ordinances, if any, exist for the property?
the nitty gritty
In this section, you'll be led through the entire process of planning a garden from scratch. It is an exhaustive process, filled with many decisions, lots of hard work, adept problem-solving, and plenty of creativity. To keep track of all that goes on in this process, it is helpful to have a main repository of information that is easily accessible. For sake of ease, I've created a binder system to track garden information, projects, test results, and much, much more. This system can be found by clicking the link below:
In the module that follows, there will be bolded notes that indicate which page in the binder certain elements should be recorded. If you are creating your own garden binder or have another system you prefer to use, these notes can be ignored.
Site Analysis
The first step in creating a new garden space, as with any project, is to get familiar with what you already have. Every garden is a unique space; even two adjacent, identical landscapes will have different needs and possible issues. This first garden project is centered around gathering information about your property and the existing plants and animals that call it home. In your binder, you'll want to begin by recording your address, including your county (Garden Information & Contacts). You'll then want to go to your County Assessor's website, which can be found most quickly by googling (for example, Fremont County Assessor, Marin County Assessor, etc.). Navigate through the site to find parcel and property assessment information, and locate your parcel on the provided map. Record your parcel number in your binder (Garden Information & Contacts). Then, you'll want to calculate your square footage. If you already know how many square feet your property is, you're ahead of the game. If you're not familiar with this information, that's alright, as well. A quick Google of your address will bring up real estate websites that will have this information. A good website to choose for this information is Redfin, which lists the total square footage of a property in the 'About This Home' section, as well as the square footage of the home itself. Other websites will have this same information, as well. Go ahead and record this data in your binder (Garden Information & Contacts). Although these steps may not seem like they have too much to do with the gardening process, they will get you situated and possibly provide you with information that you didn't know you needed down the line. When everything you need is recorded in one place, problems are much easier to solve.
The first step in creating a new garden space, as with any project, is to get familiar with what you already have. Every garden is a unique space; even two adjacent, identical landscapes will have different needs and possible issues. This first garden project is centered around gathering information about your property and the existing plants and animals that call it home. In your binder, you'll want to begin by recording your address, including your county (Garden Information & Contacts). You'll then want to go to your County Assessor's website, which can be found most quickly by googling (for example, Fremont County Assessor, Marin County Assessor, etc.). Navigate through the site to find parcel and property assessment information, and locate your parcel on the provided map. Record your parcel number in your binder (Garden Information & Contacts). Then, you'll want to calculate your square footage. If you already know how many square feet your property is, you're ahead of the game. If you're not familiar with this information, that's alright, as well. A quick Google of your address will bring up real estate websites that will have this information. A good website to choose for this information is Redfin, which lists the total square footage of a property in the 'About This Home' section, as well as the square footage of the home itself. Other websites will have this same information, as well. Go ahead and record this data in your binder (Garden Information & Contacts). Although these steps may not seem like they have too much to do with the gardening process, they will get you situated and possibly provide you with information that you didn't know you needed down the line. When everything you need is recorded in one place, problems are much easier to solve.
The next task to complete is to find the average high and low temperatures for your city. This can be easily accessed by simply googling 'average temperatures by month for _______, CA'. This should give you a great idea of what to expect as far as temperature fluctuations month-to-month as well as an overview of the average rainfall for each month in your area. Next, if you haven't done so already, find your Sunset and USDA growing zones. If you need help finding this information, click the link below. After you have gathered this climate information, make sure to log it in your garden binder for future reference (Garden Information & Contacts).
Working with HOAs and other Restrictions
Sometimes, gardening projects need to be reviewed by another party before they are started. In housing communities with HOAs, apartment or condominium complexes, and rented properties this situation is common. For example, many homeowners’ associations have rules prohibiting homeowners from growing food in their yards or from selling food grown on their property
If you live in one of these complexes, it is a good idea to look at your HOA's Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&R's) or your rental agreement to investigate whether gardening projects are mentioned. If they are not, this does not necessarily mean that you're in the clear to freely change your outdoor spaces. It is important to still check with your HOA, rental manager or property owner to clarify. Although many people believe the opposite, I think it is better to ask for permission instead of forgiveness. Gardening in this way ensures that time is not wasted on projects that need to be dismantled later and money is not spent on plants that will just get pulled right back out of the ground. It is important to note, if your garden is under the purview of a Homeowner's Association, that in 2013 The Governor signed AB 2104 into law to clarify that homeowners in common interest developments (like HOAs) can plant “climate appropriate landscaping” without fear of being fined. Unfortunately some residents have been fined by HOAs for planting drought tolerant landscaping and this law ended that practice. The law was enacted to ultimately help improve water supply, water quality, and more.
Restrictions also exist on properties not under the purview of an HOA or property manager. There are many laws that affect the way we garden, what we plant, and how we dispose of waste. For more information on which laws affect gardening activities on your property, see the following page:
Sometimes, gardening projects need to be reviewed by another party before they are started. In housing communities with HOAs, apartment or condominium complexes, and rented properties this situation is common. For example, many homeowners’ associations have rules prohibiting homeowners from growing food in their yards or from selling food grown on their property
If you live in one of these complexes, it is a good idea to look at your HOA's Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&R's) or your rental agreement to investigate whether gardening projects are mentioned. If they are not, this does not necessarily mean that you're in the clear to freely change your outdoor spaces. It is important to still check with your HOA, rental manager or property owner to clarify. Although many people believe the opposite, I think it is better to ask for permission instead of forgiveness. Gardening in this way ensures that time is not wasted on projects that need to be dismantled later and money is not spent on plants that will just get pulled right back out of the ground. It is important to note, if your garden is under the purview of a Homeowner's Association, that in 2013 The Governor signed AB 2104 into law to clarify that homeowners in common interest developments (like HOAs) can plant “climate appropriate landscaping” without fear of being fined. Unfortunately some residents have been fined by HOAs for planting drought tolerant landscaping and this law ended that practice. The law was enacted to ultimately help improve water supply, water quality, and more.
Restrictions also exist on properties not under the purview of an HOA or property manager. There are many laws that affect the way we garden, what we plant, and how we dispose of waste. For more information on which laws affect gardening activities on your property, see the following page:
Soil Testing
Getting to know your type of soil, including its pH and relative amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is a fundamental part of gardening successfully. Gaining this information will let you know which garden projects to begin with, as well. If your garden needs more of any nutrient, providing it in advance to installing any plants is ideal. This will ensure that your garden soil reaches a balance of nutrients that will be available to new plantings, and also means that young plant roots will not be burned by fertilizers or otherwise harmed by incorrect soil nutrition. A great way to complete this testing is by purchasing a kit, such as the one linked here. Following the instructions for soil testing kits is straightforward, the materials are affordable, and the process only requires a small amount of soil. The best part is, most soil kits come with more than one test's worth of materials, so you can test different areas of your garden, retest as often as you'd like, or even test friends' and family members' soil for them if you'd like. If you fully completed the homework assignment for the Soil module, you'll have done soil testing already, and can input that information instead of testing again (Soil Testing). Testing soil also includes learning the type of soil you have, which affects drainage. If you completed the homework for the Soil module, you also did a soil test for this purpose, and can enter what you found into your binder (Soil Testing). You can do a retest at this time as well, using either of the following methods:
Feel Method
Testing your soil type can be as simple as feeling your soil by moistening it and rolling it into a ball. Once you've got a ball, rub it between your thumb and forefinger, flattening it a bit. Notice its characteristics and compare them with the descriptions below:
Getting to know your type of soil, including its pH and relative amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is a fundamental part of gardening successfully. Gaining this information will let you know which garden projects to begin with, as well. If your garden needs more of any nutrient, providing it in advance to installing any plants is ideal. This will ensure that your garden soil reaches a balance of nutrients that will be available to new plantings, and also means that young plant roots will not be burned by fertilizers or otherwise harmed by incorrect soil nutrition. A great way to complete this testing is by purchasing a kit, such as the one linked here. Following the instructions for soil testing kits is straightforward, the materials are affordable, and the process only requires a small amount of soil. The best part is, most soil kits come with more than one test's worth of materials, so you can test different areas of your garden, retest as often as you'd like, or even test friends' and family members' soil for them if you'd like. If you fully completed the homework assignment for the Soil module, you'll have done soil testing already, and can input that information instead of testing again (Soil Testing). Testing soil also includes learning the type of soil you have, which affects drainage. If you completed the homework for the Soil module, you also did a soil test for this purpose, and can enter what you found into your binder (Soil Testing). You can do a retest at this time as well, using either of the following methods:
Feel Method
Testing your soil type can be as simple as feeling your soil by moistening it and rolling it into a ball. Once you've got a ball, rub it between your thumb and forefinger, flattening it a bit. Notice its characteristics and compare them with the descriptions below:
- Sandy Soil will not form a ball when rolled between your fingers, and will crumble easily. The consistency will be 'rockier' than other soils.
- Silty Soil is smooth to the touch, almost soapy-slick. When rolled between your fingers, this soil will leave dirt on your skin.
- Clay Soil feels sticky when moistened, and will easily form a ball or sausage-shape when rolled between the hands or fingers.
- Peaty Soil, like sandy soil, will not form a ball when rolled. If you have peaty soil, you will be able to squeeze water out of it, like you would with a sponge.
- Loamy Soil is smooth but partly gritty, and will form a sticky ball that crumbles easily.
Mason Jar Method
If you're interested in finding out what type of soil you have in a more visual way, you'll like the mason jar method. Fill a mason jar up halfway with a soil sample from your planting area. Then, fill the rest of the jar with water, leaving a little air at the top for shaking room. Shake vigorously for a few minutes so that all of the particles are suspended in the water. Let the soil settle overnight. The next morning, you'll be able to see clear layers in the jar. The bottom layer is usually sand and any small rocks that may be in your soil. The next layer up will be silt particles. Above that will be your clay particles, and then the added water. There may be some organic matter floating on the top of the water. Next, look at the color of your soil. Lighter soil usually has less organic content than dark soil.
If you're interested in finding out what type of soil you have in a more visual way, you'll like the mason jar method. Fill a mason jar up halfway with a soil sample from your planting area. Then, fill the rest of the jar with water, leaving a little air at the top for shaking room. Shake vigorously for a few minutes so that all of the particles are suspended in the water. Let the soil settle overnight. The next morning, you'll be able to see clear layers in the jar. The bottom layer is usually sand and any small rocks that may be in your soil. The next layer up will be silt particles. Above that will be your clay particles, and then the added water. There may be some organic matter floating on the top of the water. Next, look at the color of your soil. Lighter soil usually has less organic content than dark soil.
Testing your soil is a task that needs to be completed every three to five years for nutrition, texture, and drainage. The best time of the year to test soil is in the fall or winter, when added fertilizers and amendments have had time to break down and incorporate into the soil. If soil has serious problems or if you'd simply like more information about your soil, you can send a sample to a lab. This process is time-consuming and expensive, but can answer a lot of questions you may have about your soil's health. The best time to send in samples is during fall and winter, when the labs are not as busy, and you'll get your test results back in a shorter amount of time. For more information on soil and why it is so important to the planning of a successful garden, visit the soil module of this course:
Mapping Sun Exposure on Your Property
Sun exposure is one of the fundamental pieces of information that you'll need to gather in planning your garden. All plants have a sweet spot as far as the amount of sunlight required per day goes. Some plants love the shade, others love the sun, and still others have more specific needs, like a combination of morning sun and afternoon shade. The sun exposure on your property is affected both by the position of the sun in the sky, which changes according to season, and surrounding structures (like fences and buildings) and large plants, which will cast shadows. Each day, sunlight passes over your property, a completely free-of-cost, life-giving resource that you can manipulate and use to grow your chosen plants. In designing a garden space, the importance of mapping sun exposure cannot be understated.
Sun exposure is one of the fundamental pieces of information that you'll need to gather in planning your garden. All plants have a sweet spot as far as the amount of sunlight required per day goes. Some plants love the shade, others love the sun, and still others have more specific needs, like a combination of morning sun and afternoon shade. The sun exposure on your property is affected both by the position of the sun in the sky, which changes according to season, and surrounding structures (like fences and buildings) and large plants, which will cast shadows. Each day, sunlight passes over your property, a completely free-of-cost, life-giving resource that you can manipulate and use to grow your chosen plants. In designing a garden space, the importance of mapping sun exposure cannot be understated.
Many gardeners are already familiar with the path sunlight takes across their property, but for those who are not, there are myriad resources to use. My personal preference is an app called Sun Seeker. Check it out by clicking the link below:
Lay it Out on Paper
Creating a basic map of your garden space is going to be your next step in this information-seeking process. In the previous section, we located your property within your county and figured out its general size. Now, we'll go a step further and actually map your garden space. If you have a small space, this can be done on a single page. However, if you have a large property or segmented garden areas, it may be more helpful to create a few maps for the ability to include more detail. If you're familiar with mapping spaces, it may be easy for you to throw a simple garden map together, but for others, it is helpful to use some tools. A good first step is to look up your property on Google Maps. Zoom in on your property so that its borders are just within the visible boundaries of the viewing screen, and take a screenshot (using the Print Screen button on your keyboard). Then, open up Paint, crop your screenshot so that it only shows your property (no search bars or user interface), and save it. This will be your property's general blueprint. If you'd like, you can print this out and put it in your gardening binder. You can also simply just use it to create a sketch of your space, which is our next step.
Using a sheet of graph paper, draw out your space, keeping it as to scale as possible. This can be done by laying your paper on top of your Google Maps property image, sketching the general outlines if your various borders, structures, and hardscaped areas. Include pathways, buildings, fencing, and other structures. Measure out your space as best you can, and record measurements in your sketch. This can be completed either through using Google Earth (it has a measurement function) or by physically going outdoors and measuring with a measuring tape. A few apps exist, as well, for measuring distances and spaces. If you're familiar with these programs, I suggest using them to make this process simpler and more accurate. As a part of this process, make sure to indicate the direction in which areas (or the entire space) are sloped. Note the direction of true north on your map, as well. The list below includes other notable features to mark:
Creating a basic map of your garden space is going to be your next step in this information-seeking process. In the previous section, we located your property within your county and figured out its general size. Now, we'll go a step further and actually map your garden space. If you have a small space, this can be done on a single page. However, if you have a large property or segmented garden areas, it may be more helpful to create a few maps for the ability to include more detail. If you're familiar with mapping spaces, it may be easy for you to throw a simple garden map together, but for others, it is helpful to use some tools. A good first step is to look up your property on Google Maps. Zoom in on your property so that its borders are just within the visible boundaries of the viewing screen, and take a screenshot (using the Print Screen button on your keyboard). Then, open up Paint, crop your screenshot so that it only shows your property (no search bars or user interface), and save it. This will be your property's general blueprint. If you'd like, you can print this out and put it in your gardening binder. You can also simply just use it to create a sketch of your space, which is our next step.
Using a sheet of graph paper, draw out your space, keeping it as to scale as possible. This can be done by laying your paper on top of your Google Maps property image, sketching the general outlines if your various borders, structures, and hardscaped areas. Include pathways, buildings, fencing, and other structures. Measure out your space as best you can, and record measurements in your sketch. This can be completed either through using Google Earth (it has a measurement function) or by physically going outdoors and measuring with a measuring tape. A few apps exist, as well, for measuring distances and spaces. If you're familiar with these programs, I suggest using them to make this process simpler and more accurate. As a part of this process, make sure to indicate the direction in which areas (or the entire space) are sloped. Note the direction of true north on your map, as well. The list below includes other notable features to mark:
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Take Stock of Your Plants
After accounting for everything but, it is now time to get out into your garden and exercise your plant identification muscles. If you have any tags from any plants you've purchased and installed, bring them out and record them. If you've been engaging with the activities at the end of each module in this course, you'll already have a nice list going, and possibly won't need to do any additional research or investigation. If this is not the case, that's alright as well. In the latter situation, venture out into your garden, and systematically work through the yard, marking each of your plants as accurately as possible on your garden map. If your map is getting too crowded after marking everything else, it's alright to do this on a separate map or piece of sketch paper. After you've marked them down, include a circle around the spot that they're planted that represents where the plant canopy extends to when it is in full foliage. This is a little harder to do in the winter than the spring, as the foliage on many plants just isn't there at that time of the year, but these diameters can be approximate, and can also be tweaked later on if necessary.
The next step in this process is to identify and label each plant on your map. If you haven't done so already, investigate what plants you have in your garden. A quick way to complete this process is to take a few pictures of each (spring is a perfect season for this task) and submit them to an identification service, like google lens or iNaturalist. After you've found your species and variety information, record it in your binder (WHERE THO). If you need help using Google lens or iNaturalist, see my post for instructions on how to do so:
After accounting for everything but, it is now time to get out into your garden and exercise your plant identification muscles. If you have any tags from any plants you've purchased and installed, bring them out and record them. If you've been engaging with the activities at the end of each module in this course, you'll already have a nice list going, and possibly won't need to do any additional research or investigation. If this is not the case, that's alright as well. In the latter situation, venture out into your garden, and systematically work through the yard, marking each of your plants as accurately as possible on your garden map. If your map is getting too crowded after marking everything else, it's alright to do this on a separate map or piece of sketch paper. After you've marked them down, include a circle around the spot that they're planted that represents where the plant canopy extends to when it is in full foliage. This is a little harder to do in the winter than the spring, as the foliage on many plants just isn't there at that time of the year, but these diameters can be approximate, and can also be tweaked later on if necessary.
The next step in this process is to identify and label each plant on your map. If you haven't done so already, investigate what plants you have in your garden. A quick way to complete this process is to take a few pictures of each (spring is a perfect season for this task) and submit them to an identification service, like google lens or iNaturalist. After you've found your species and variety information, record it in your binder (WHERE THO). If you need help using Google lens or iNaturalist, see my post for instructions on how to do so:
Budgeting and Tracking Expenses
Arguably the most important aspect of designing a garden is setting a budget. When all aspects of the garden are put down on paper, the resulting total cost can be a bit of a shocker. Begin your planning with a priced wish list of all of the items that you would like to have in your dream garden, including a list of plants. This list can then be whittled down to fit your budget as you replace new items with used ones, choose cheaper plants that serve the same purpose as your desired ones (they can always be replaced at a later date), and alter materials to lower the overall cost of installation. In most cases, the creation of a dream garden comes through the completion of many projects, and the use of the budget is stretched out over months or even years.
Next, organize your list into a workable document that you can use to both track your spending and monitor your overall progress. If you're an accounting whiz, you can do this all on your own, but for those who need a little structure for this sort of task, I've created an editable spreadsheet can help you organize your gardening budget:
Arguably the most important aspect of designing a garden is setting a budget. When all aspects of the garden are put down on paper, the resulting total cost can be a bit of a shocker. Begin your planning with a priced wish list of all of the items that you would like to have in your dream garden, including a list of plants. This list can then be whittled down to fit your budget as you replace new items with used ones, choose cheaper plants that serve the same purpose as your desired ones (they can always be replaced at a later date), and alter materials to lower the overall cost of installation. In most cases, the creation of a dream garden comes through the completion of many projects, and the use of the budget is stretched out over months or even years.
Next, organize your list into a workable document that you can use to both track your spending and monitor your overall progress. If you're an accounting whiz, you can do this all on your own, but for those who need a little structure for this sort of task, I've created an editable spreadsheet can help you organize your gardening budget:
If you are looking to save money on your garden, there's no need to cut corners. The blog post linked below has a bevy of wonderful ideas that can be used to save money on garden projects, and includes DIY techniques, easy swaps, and expense-saving tips. Check it out by heading over to the blog page on this website, or simply click to link below:
Aspects of garden design
The following are important points to consider when bringing your design together:
Intended Use of Space
Garden spaces, especially when connected to private properties, are used for myriad purposes. Common intended uses include reflection and meditation, relaxation, entertaining, displaying plant collections, or for use by children or pets. Jot down what you currently use your garden space for, and then also make a list of what you'd ultimately like your garden to be used for.
Garden spaces, especially when connected to private properties, are used for myriad purposes. Common intended uses include reflection and meditation, relaxation, entertaining, displaying plant collections, or for use by children or pets. Jot down what you currently use your garden space for, and then also make a list of what you'd ultimately like your garden to be used for.
Desired Level of Involvement
Some home gardeners like to get their hands dirty, others prefer simply enjoying a beautiful landscape with minimal personal effort. It is critical to be realistic about how much time you're willing to spend completing maintenance projects, installing new plants, harvesting (if applicable), and cleaning. Would you like to be pushing a mower around every weekend? How do you feel about hand-watering? Some time-consuming tasks can be side-stepped through the use of garden technology, like automatic watering systems, or simply by the type of plants you choose to grow (some plants are low-maintenance, others are decidedly not). These questions may seem superfluous at this point - all you really want is a beautiful space - but they are essential to creating a personalized gardening experience that encourages happiness and relaxation.
Some home gardeners like to get their hands dirty, others prefer simply enjoying a beautiful landscape with minimal personal effort. It is critical to be realistic about how much time you're willing to spend completing maintenance projects, installing new plants, harvesting (if applicable), and cleaning. Would you like to be pushing a mower around every weekend? How do you feel about hand-watering? Some time-consuming tasks can be side-stepped through the use of garden technology, like automatic watering systems, or simply by the type of plants you choose to grow (some plants are low-maintenance, others are decidedly not). These questions may seem superfluous at this point - all you really want is a beautiful space - but they are essential to creating a personalized gardening experience that encourages happiness and relaxation.
Time Line of Maturity
Gardens can mature quickly or take many years, depending on the plant material you select and install. Decide whether you would like to have a lush garden space in five years, or if you'd like a low-maintenance garden in twenty. Are you planning to move in a few years? How about retirement?
Gardens can mature quickly or take many years, depending on the plant material you select and install. Decide whether you would like to have a lush garden space in five years, or if you'd like a low-maintenance garden in twenty. Are you planning to move in a few years? How about retirement?
Architectural Style of Existing Structures
This will affect the style of hardscaped areas in the landscape, as well as inform which plants will look natural in your garden.
This will affect the style of hardscaped areas in the landscape, as well as inform which plants will look natural in your garden.
Lawn Areas
With increased water restrictions in our state, having lawn areas has become a point of contention. There are many attractive alternatives to having a formal lawn area that require less water, such as native bunch grasses or groundcovers. You can also use lawn areas as natural wildflower meadows or simply just more space for planting.
With increased water restrictions in our state, having lawn areas has become a point of contention. There are many attractive alternatives to having a formal lawn area that require less water, such as native bunch grasses or groundcovers. You can also use lawn areas as natural wildflower meadows or simply just more space for planting.
Appropriate Density
Creating a beautiful space doesn't necessarily mean squishing as many plants into a space as possible. This may make your landscape look fantastic, but it can invite many issues such as not enough root space, problems with air flow, and the invitation of bacterial and fungal diseases to take hold and spread quickly. Gardens are not created overnight; plants need to be given the opportunity to grow into their own and thrive.
Creating a beautiful space doesn't necessarily mean squishing as many plants into a space as possible. This may make your landscape look fantastic, but it can invite many issues such as not enough root space, problems with air flow, and the invitation of bacterial and fungal diseases to take hold and spread quickly. Gardens are not created overnight; plants need to be given the opportunity to grow into their own and thrive.
20 Garden design ideas to consider
Use shrubs and trees to form the backbone of your garden.
Mass perennials together in beds.
Fill gaps with annuals.
Don't stagger plant heights if you'd like to have an informal look.
Design each bed individually for a more natural look.
Select pleasing shapes for your beds.
Make beds at least 8 feet wide.
Edge paths and beds with bold-folaged plants.
Vary foliage color throughout the landscape.
Limb-up background shrubs to allow for more space in a bed.
Stagger bloom times.
Incorporate edibles.
Layer plantings - trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, bulbs
Plant self-sowing flowers in outer areas
Have fun with garden art, if that's your style.
Don't forget the vertical element.
Plant a variety of grasses in the landscape.
Don't be afraid to break any rules.
Try new things and have fun with it.