Iris
( EYE - riss )
At-A-Glance InformationIris is a genus of highly variable flowering perennials that grow from corms and rhizomes. Flowers are often fragrant, and vary widely in color, though they are all showy and will add immediate interest to your garden. Irises are named for the Greek rainbow goddess and are the inspiration behind the fleur-de-lis emblem. Grow Irises in containers, mixed beds and borders, or as specimens in the landscape. Take care when planting Irises in the landscape, as all plant parts are toxic to humans and pets if ingested.
|
Iris Subgenera, Species and Varietals
The genus Iris is a member of the plant family Iridaceae and includes over 300 species. Iris plants vary widely in flower colors and forms and they are generally grouped into three categories: bearded, beardless, and crested. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
Iris acutiloba This species is native to the Middle East and Mediterranean, and is considered a dwarf species, reaching up to 10 inches tall. It has a creeping habit, forming clumps over time. These plants produce flowers that are cream-white and heavily veined with dark purple-red to brown. Petals have dark spots on them. |
Iris albicans (Cemetery Iris, White Cemetery Iris, White Flag Iris) This species is native to the Middle East and northern Africa, where it was historically planted on graves in Muslim regions. Plants reach up to 2 feet tall, and produce strappy blue-green foliage and white flowers with cream-yellow beards. Spreads via rhizome roots and does not produce seeds. |
Iris aphylla (Leafless Iris, Table Iris, Stool Iris) These plants are native to Eurasia, and produce bright green grassy foliage that dies back in the wintertime. Slender flowering stems are topped with violet to pinkish-purple blooms in spring and early summertime. Individual plants reach up to between 3 and 12 inches tall when mature and in bloom. |
Iris arenaria (Sandy Iris, Sand Iris) These pale to golden yellow flowers are native to sandy areas in central Europe. They have long, flattened green leaves and reach about 10 inches tall when mature and in bloom. Stems hold between one and two flowers, which are present from April through May. Blooms are vanilla-scented. The species is considered to be endangered. |
Iris atropurpurea (Coastal Iris, Purple Iris) Native to Israel, this species blooms between the months of February and March, producing stems topped with maroon to deep red flowers. These plants need very dry conditions to thrive, and do well in rock gardens. Leaves are linear and green, almost grass-like. |
Iris bismarckiana (Nazareth Iris) These plants are native to Israel, Lebanon, Jordan, and Syria, and flower between March and April. They produce green foliage and flowers that vary in color from pale yellow-cream to white. They are covered in red-brown markings and spots. This species thrives in dry conditions. |
Iris fulva (Copper Iris) This species of Iris is native to the southern and central United States, and produces copper to reddish flowers. Leaves are bright green and linear. Individual plants form clumps to 1-2 feet wide over time, and reach up to over three feet tall when mature and in bloom. Flowers bloom between the months of April and June. |
Iris furcata (Forked Iris, Fork Iris, Forked Stemmed Iris) These perennial rhizomatous plants are native to the Caucasus Mountains in Moldovia and Ukraine. Plants form narrow, sword-shaped green foliage and slender stems that branch. Blooms are reddish-purple, purple, or pinkish-purple, and bloom in late spring and summer. |
Iris x germanica (German Bearded Iris)
This hybrid species produces plants that grow to reach up to 48 inches tall and 12 inches wide. They bloom from mid to late spring, and there are many cultivars with varying flower colors and compositions.
This hybrid species produces plants that grow to reach up to 48 inches tall and 12 inches wide. They bloom from mid to late spring, and there are many cultivars with varying flower colors and compositions.
Iris spp. Hybrids and Cultivars
This group of Irises includes those that are cultivars and hybrids of existing species.
This group of Irises includes those that are cultivars and hybrids of existing species.
Iris japonica (Fringed Iris, Shaga, Butterfly Flower)
Native to China and Japan, this species produces white to lavender colored flowers that have yellow-orange beards and dark purple markings. It forms a basal tuft of green to yellow-green lance-shaped foliage.
Iris kemaonensis (Iris kumaonensis) (Kumaon Iris) Native to Tibet, Bhutan, India, Kashmir, and Nepal, this species produces yellow-green foliage that remains after flowers have faded. Blooms are fragrant and range in color from lilac to violet. They typically have darker colors and mottling. Plants reach up to 18 inches tall at maturity when in bloom. |
Iris laevigata (Japanese Iris, Rabbit-Ear Iris, Shallow-Flowered Iris, Kakitsubata) This species of Iris is native to Japan, where it is found growing in shallow waters. It is great for water gardens in temperate zones, and produces violet flowers with white beards. Cultivar 'Variegata' has leaves lined with white. |
Iris lutescens (Crimean Iris) These plants reach up to a foot tall and produce broad grey-green leaves. They bloom from March through April in their native range (Northeastern Spain, Southern France, and Italy), where they typically are found in rocky or sandy hillsides or woodland areas. Hardy down to -4 degrees Fahrenheit. Blooms are yellow. |
Iris mariae (Mary's Iris, Negev Iris) These flowering plants are native to desert regions of Israel and Egypt, and produce fairly tall blue-green foliage and lilac-purple to pink flowers with deeper veining and blackish signals and dark purple beards. The species can survive for long periods of time without water, |
Iris pallida (Sweet Iris, Dalmatian Iris) These plants are native to the Dalmatian Coast in Croatia, and are widely naturalized elsewhere. It is highly adaptable to different climates. Individual plants reach up to between 20 and 31 inches tall, and produce blue-green leaves. Flowers bloom in May and June, and are pale purple to white with yellow beards. Cultivar 'Variegata' is very popular and produces yellow and blue-green variegated foliage. 'Argentea Variegata' (pictured) produces white and blue-green variegated leaves. |
Iris petrana (Petra Iris) This species is native to sandy desert regions in Jordan and Israel, and produces sword-like grey-green foliage. They can reach up to 10 inches tall and form small colonies over time. Flowers produced by these plants range in color from dark brown to violet. They can be nearly black in certain light. |
Iris setina (Iris of Sezze) This species is native to a small region in Italy, and produces sword-like grey to blue-green foliage. Violet flowers bloom atop slender branching stems. Individual plants reach up to 20 inches tall. Blooms are present from February through March in the plants' native range. |
Iris tectorum (Roof Iris, Japanese Roof Iris, Wall Iris) These flowers are native to China, Korea, and Burma and produces clumps of green, strappy foliage. Blooms are lavender to purple-violet, and have white and yellow-orange markings towards their centers. They flower between the months of April and June in their native range. |
Iris tenax (Tough-Leaved Iris, Oregon Iris, Flag) Native to Oregon and northern California, this species is found along roadsides, in grasslands, and in openings in forests. IT produces flowers that are lavender-blue to purple, with white, yellow, and darker markings. Leaves are very slender and green, almost grasslike. Rhizomes spread slowly. |
Iris versicolor (Iris versicolour) (Blue Flag, Harlequin Blueflag, Larger Blue Flag, Northern Blue Flag, Poison Flag, Purple Iris) These purple flowers are native to North America, where they grow in meadows, marshes, shorelines, and streambanks. It reaches up to 31 inches tall when mature and in bloom. Flowers appear from May through July. |
Caring for Iris
Iris flowers can be purchased as seeds, nursery starts, or as bare roots. Nursery starts can be planted in springtime, and will generally flower in their first year in the ground. Bare roots can be planted in the fall or spring, and may not produce full flowers until their second year in the garden. The rhizomes should be planted horizontally, with the top exposed and only the roots under the soil surface. In areas with very hot summer temperatures, plant rhizomes just below the soil surface. Irises grown from seed will mature and flower within three years. To direct-sow Iris seeds in the garden, place seeds about 1/4 inch deep. Iris plants should be spaced between 12 and 24 inches apart for best coverage and airflow. Some of the taller Irises can benefit from being grown against a wall or fence, or be staked. They should be planted in a place in the garden that receives between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day. In warmer climates, Irises appreciate some afternoon shade when temperatures are at their peak. Ensure that soil is well-draining, fertile, and has a pH of between 6.5 and 7.5. If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing.
Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system. Mature Iris plants like moisture, as well, but most do need well-draining soil to avoid root rot issues. As a general rule of thumb for most Iris varieties (excluding Water Irises), water when the top two inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Do not mulch around the base of Iris plants; mulching Irises can encourage their rhizomes to develop root rot issues. Each year in springtime, apply a 2-inch layer of organic compost around the planting area to improve soil structure, drainage, and nutrient load. This feeding should be sufficient to provide these flowers with enough nutrients to get through their growth and flowering seasons. Fertilizing these plants is rarely necessary; they do not like high-nitrogen fertilizers. Prune Iris flowers after blooms fade by cutting flowering stems back to their base (unless you will be collecting seed for propagation). Deadheading Iris plants can encourage more blooms to form. Every three to five years, clumps of Iris should be dug up and divided. During division, any parts of the roots that have been affected by Iris Borers or disease can be culled. Dividing Irises keeps plants at their most resilient, and also allows for propagation. For instructions on how to divide Irises, see the Propagation section below.
Growing Iris In Containers
Although it is uncommon, it is possible to cultivate Iris plants in pots. Dwarf species and cultivars are best for this situation. Ensure that the pot being used is at least a foot wide. Potting soil should be loose and free-draining. If soil does not drain well, amend with sand or perlite. It is also important to make sure that the pots have adequate drainage holes before planting. Leave the tops of rhizomes exposed or just barely covered. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system. Mature plants should get watered whenever the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Take care to not overwater. In cooler climates, move containers into a sheltered location over the winter months. When grown in containers, Irises will need dividing every other year. For instructions on how to divide Irises, see the Propagation section below.
Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system. Mature Iris plants like moisture, as well, but most do need well-draining soil to avoid root rot issues. As a general rule of thumb for most Iris varieties (excluding Water Irises), water when the top two inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Do not mulch around the base of Iris plants; mulching Irises can encourage their rhizomes to develop root rot issues. Each year in springtime, apply a 2-inch layer of organic compost around the planting area to improve soil structure, drainage, and nutrient load. This feeding should be sufficient to provide these flowers with enough nutrients to get through their growth and flowering seasons. Fertilizing these plants is rarely necessary; they do not like high-nitrogen fertilizers. Prune Iris flowers after blooms fade by cutting flowering stems back to their base (unless you will be collecting seed for propagation). Deadheading Iris plants can encourage more blooms to form. Every three to five years, clumps of Iris should be dug up and divided. During division, any parts of the roots that have been affected by Iris Borers or disease can be culled. Dividing Irises keeps plants at their most resilient, and also allows for propagation. For instructions on how to divide Irises, see the Propagation section below.
Growing Iris In Containers
Although it is uncommon, it is possible to cultivate Iris plants in pots. Dwarf species and cultivars are best for this situation. Ensure that the pot being used is at least a foot wide. Potting soil should be loose and free-draining. If soil does not drain well, amend with sand or perlite. It is also important to make sure that the pots have adequate drainage holes before planting. Leave the tops of rhizomes exposed or just barely covered. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system. Mature plants should get watered whenever the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Take care to not overwater. In cooler climates, move containers into a sheltered location over the winter months. When grown in containers, Irises will need dividing every other year. For instructions on how to divide Irises, see the Propagation section below.
Propagation
Irises can be propagated either by division or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the division method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Iris plant, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Iris by Seed
Propagating Iris by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
Propagating Iris by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. The seed heads on plants are pretty easy to spot, they're left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will continue to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
- In either late winter or early springtime, get your container prepared. Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes between 4 and 12 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Propagating Iris by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in very early spring (after the plant has entered dormancy, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every few years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
- Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the root(s). Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
- Start to tease apart the roots with your gloved fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick root section attached.
- Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divisions and water thoroughly.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout in the next growing season.
Problems and Pests
Iris flowers can suffer from the following pests and diseases in the landscape:
- Iris Borer Worms
- Bacterial Soft Rot
- Crown Root Fungus
- Fungal Leaf Spot
- Mosaic Virus
Gallery
Bees are important pollinators of Iris flowers.
|
This mixed bed features various Iris and Foxglove cultivars.
|
Water Irises prefer boggy areas, and like to have their crowns under water year-round.
|
Here, a central round bed features yellow Irises around a vine,
|
Light purple Iris flowers compliment ornamental Allium.
|
Irises are classic garden ornamentals.
|
Videos
How to dig and divided Irises successfully.
|
Check out this dwarf Iris bloom timelapse video.
|
How to plant Irises in the garden.
|
Take a look at different varieties of Bearded Iris in this garden tour.
|
How to care for Irises - the complete guide.
|
Learn how to grow Irises.
|
Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 377 - 381, Iris
If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or photos you’d like to add to the gallery, please let me know by sending me a message using the button below!