Podocarpus
( poe - doe - KAR - puss )
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At-A-Glance InformationThis genus of evergreen shrubs and trees includes species which need full sun to partial shade and regular water to perform at their best in the landscape. These plants, commonly called Plum Pines, Buddhist Pines or Yew Pines, are grown for their handsome foliage and adaptability as a garden ornamentals. If male plants and female plants are located near each other, the female plants will produce berry-like cones. Use these shrubs and trees as privacy screens, formal hedges, or architectural accents. They are commonly included in wildlife, patio, or poolside gardens. Take care when planting these shrubs and trees in the landscape, as plant parts are moderately to mildly toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Pollen from male plants can cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.
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podocarpus Species and Varietals
The genus Podocarpus is a member of the family Podocarpaceae and includes between 97 and 107 species. The genus name is derived from the Greek words 'pous' (foot) and 'karpos' (fruit). The best growing zones vary depending on the species cultivated. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Podocarpus falcatus (Afrocarpus falcatus) (Common Yellowwood, Outeniqua Yellowwood, Bastard Yellowwood, Weeping Yew, African Pine Tree, African Fern Pine, Outeniekwageelhout, Kalander, Umsonti, Umkhoba, Mogôbagôba) This species grows as a tree, and is best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9, 14-24 and H2. It is a slow grower native to South Africa that reaches up to 150 feet tall with flaky reddish bark. Foliage is dark green, narrow, and leathery. |
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Podocarpus gracilor (Afrocarpus gracilor, Afrocarpus elongatus) (Fern Pine, Bastard Yellowwood, African Fern Pine, Weeping Podocarpus) This species takes the form of a tree or espaliered vining shrub, best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9, 13-24, H1 and H2. It is native to east Africa and grows 20-60 feet tall and 10-20 feet wide at maturity. Great as landscape trees, patio trees, and trees against buildings in urban landscapes. |
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Podocarpus henkelii (Long-Leafed Yellowwood, Henkel's Yellowwood, Umsonti, Hankel-se-Geelhout, Falcate Yellowwood, East Gruiqualand Yellowwood, Umsonti, Bastergeelhout) This species takes the form of a tree, growing well in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9, 14-24, H1 and H2. It is native to eastern and southern Africa, and has slow growth to 30-50 feet tall and 15-20 feet wide. Leaves are drooping, shiny green, and massed together. Great as a specimen plant; can be pruned hard but does not take well to shearing. |
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Podocarpus latifolius (Yellow Wood, South African Yellowwood, Umkhoba, Mogobagoba, Real Yellowwood, Broad-Leaved Yellowwood, Opregte-Geelhout, Umsonti, Mogôbagôba) This tree grows well in USDSA hardiness zones 9a-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9, 12-24, H1 and H2 and is native to eastern and southern Africa. This is the quintessential Yellow Wood, which is an important timber tree in Africa. Trees reach up to 65 to 100 feet tall in their natural landscape, but typically stay between 30 and 40 feet in gardens. Foliage is thick, leathery, and glossy dark green with a blue-grey powdery coating. |
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Podocarpus macrophyllus (Yew Pine, Buddhist Pine, Fern Pine, Yew Plum Pine, Japanese Yew, Luohan Song, Southern Yew, Arhat Pine, Luóhàn Sōng, 羅漢松, Kusamaki, クサマキ, 草槇) This species can be grown as a shrub or tree, and is best in USDA hardiness zones 7-11 or Sunset growing zones 4-9, 12-24, H1 and H2 and is native to eastern China and Japan. It has a narrow and upright habit, reaching 15-20 feet tall and 6-15 feet wide. Leaves are bright green. Great as a street or lawn tree, screen or large shrub. Difficult to espalier, but can easily be pruned into a dense hedge, and does well in large containers. Very heat tolerant. Cultivars of this species include 'Erectus' (with a stiff, upright habit great for narrow side yards), 'Maki' (narrow, upright to 8-12 feet tall and 3-5 feet wide), 'Pringle's Dwarf' (to , good for low borders), 'Lemon Sparkler' (with yellow-lime new leaves), and 'Variegatus' (with cream and green striped foliage). |
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Podocarpus nagi (Nageia nagi) (Asian Bayberry, Broadleaf Podocarpus, Nagi, Bamboo Cypress, Zhubai, 竹柏, Kanji, Kana, 梛, なぎ, Mountain Cypress) This tree is best in USDA hardiness zones 8-10 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9, 14-24, H1 and H2 and is native to Japan. In its natural habitat, it reaches 80-90 feet tall, but in gardens tops out more around 15-20 feet tall and 6-8 feet wide. Leaves are dark green and leathery but smooth and hang off of pendulous branches. Great as a foliage pattern against walls, wood, or masonry backgrounds. |
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Podocarpus nivalis (Alpine Totara, Mountain Totara, Snow Totara) This shrub grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7-10 or Sunset growing zones 4-9 and 14-17 and is native to New Zealand. It has a broad, low-growing habit and reaches 2-3 feet tall and 6-8 feet wide, with dark olive-green needle-like leaves. Great as a groundcover or in rock gardens. |
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Podocarpus totara (Totara, Tōtara, New Zealand Totara, Mahogany Pine) This species takes the form of a tree; grows best in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 or Sunset growing zones 8, 9 and 14-24. It is native to New Zealand and reaches 100 feet tall there, though in gardens tops out more around 25-30 feet tall and 18-25 feet wide. Dense and narrow habit. Leaves are grey-green and pointed. |
Caring for podocarpus
Take care when planting these shrubs and trees in the landscape, as plant parts are moderately to mildly toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Please note that if you are prone to allergies to make sure that you purchase a female plant instead of a male one, as they produce a cytotoxic pollen in spring and early summer. Space 2 to 3 feet apart for a thick privacy hedge, and at least 6 to 8 feet apart for stand-alone specimens. Plant your Podocarpus shrub in full sun to partial shade (leaves can be damaged in full sun, especially in late afternoon heat). Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 4.5 and 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Podocarpus grows well in most soils, but can develop issues with chlorosis where soil is too alkaline, heavy or damp. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Protect Podocarpus shrubs from strong winds, as this can damage foliage. Prune as needed to remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches or foliage, and to maintain shape and size. These shrubs can be grown as specimens, trees, or as formal hedges. If maintaining a neat hedge, consider selective pruning over shearing, as it will greatly extend their life. These shrubs are long-lived, and can survive for decades to over a century in the landscape before needing to be replaced.
Caring for Podocarpus in Containers
Podocarpus shrubs perform very well in the ground but can also be grown in containers. They can make great year-round screening choices for balconies and patios in high-density housing situations. Choose a container that is at least 24 inches in diameter; depending on the plant's size, they can be grown in a container that is between 3 and 15 gallons). Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Podocarpus shrubs grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Protect Podocarpus shrubs from strong winds, as this can damage foliage. Prune as needed to remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches or foliage, and to maintain shape and size. These shrubs can be grown as specimens, trees, or as formal hedges. If maintaining a neat hedge, consider selective pruning over shearing, as it will greatly extend their life. These shrubs are long-lived, and can survive for decades to over a century in the landscape before needing to be replaced.
Caring for Podocarpus in Containers
Podocarpus shrubs perform very well in the ground but can also be grown in containers. They can make great year-round screening choices for balconies and patios in high-density housing situations. Choose a container that is at least 24 inches in diameter; depending on the plant's size, they can be grown in a container that is between 3 and 15 gallons). Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Podocarpus shrubs grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Propagation
Podocarpus can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. When grown from seed, plants have an upright habit and can be grown as trees, though if grown from cuttings, they have issues creating a strong trunk, and are better grown as shrubs. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Podocarpus by Cutting
Propagating Podocarpus by Seed
Propagating Podocarpus by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch softwood portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth on your propagated Abutilon, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Podocarpus by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a plastic, sealable bag or container, sphagnum moss, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- Harvest your seeds. They are contained inside of fruits produced by female plants, and will only be successful in germinating if there is a male plant nearby, as well. If there is no male plant in your area, propagate your shrub via cuttings instead.
- Podocarpus seeds need a cold snap to germinate. Place your seeds in a plastic bag filled with moist sphagnum moss, and place that bag in the refrigerator. Leave it in there, adding moisture to the bag when it looks dry, for about two months. Then, remove the seeds and set them aside.
- Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination can take up to 6 months. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Podocarpus seeds are contained inside unique fruits consisting of a colored fleshy stalk and terminal seed. Each fruit bears one seed.
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Podocarpus seeds are round and covered by a leathery layer with a blue-green to light blue waxy coating.
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Problems and Pests
Although Podocarpus shrubs are generally free of pests and diseases, they can suffer from the following issues from time to time:
- Scale Insects
- Mealybugs
- Chlorosis
Gallery
These shrubs and their soft-looking foliage can add interest to the walls of buildings or homes.
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Use Podocarpus as a formal privacy hedge or screening.
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Podocarpus trees provide beautiful greenery and shade.
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Videos
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All about Podocarpus shrubs.
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How to grow and care for Podocarpus shrubs.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 520 - 521, Podocarpus
